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PICList Thread
'clean up the mess'
1999\10\31@212155 by Luis Loeff

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Hi fellow piclisters,
My PC board got corroded by a leaky nickel-cadmium battery. The PC is
still working but some tracks and through holes nearby the battery
look awful. Lots of blue-green stains. My first impulse would be to
clean it with soup and water and a brush.

Somebody has a better suggestion?

Regards

Luis Loeff


___ Blue Wave/386 v2.30

1999\10\31@220238 by Sean Breheny

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I had this happen to a 486 motherboard,and I thought it was a gonner.
However, I took some Isopropyl Alcohol and cotton swabs and removed the
mess from the top layer of the board,and it started working fine and has
worked fine since. I guess it it true that in many cases, it will have
affected the inner layers and there is no hope. However, in some cases, it
might just be shorting the top layer traces.

Sean

At 11:08 PM 10/31/95 GMT, you wrote:
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| Sean Breheny
| Amateur Radio Callsign: KA3YXM
| Electrical Engineering Student
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1999\10\31@221236 by Ben Stragnell

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> look awful. Lots of blue-green stains. My first impulse would be to
> clean it with soup and water and a brush.
>
> Somebody has a better suggestion?

Luis,

Depends what kind of soup you're talking about. Tomato? Mushroom?

Ben

1999\10\31@221438 by Wagner Lipnharski

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Hi Luis, this should be the explanation why your post to the PICLIST is
dated of 1995!!!!, your CMOS clock is not working at all, isn't?  :)

Wagner.

Luis Loeff wrote:
Date: Tue, 31 Oct 1995 23:08:00 GMT
{Quote hidden}

1999\10\31@224822 by paulb

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Luis Loeff wrote:

> My first impulse would be to clean it with soup and water and a brush.

 Excellent idea.  *Then* use an air blast to remove most of the water,
followed by a hair dryer (not *too* hot), then the alcohol and
toothbrush, then dry again...

 If you see corrosion across a track, polish it with a pledget of
steel wool held in tweezers (then clean the PCB *again* afterwards at
least with a dry brush).  If this reveals a break clean across the
track, you have already removed the solder mask; carefully run solder
along the track.  If this will not bridge the gap, have someone hold a
scrap of Tinned Copper Wire (cut-off resistor lead) along the track and
solder that on.

 Dubious feed-throughs can have this wire inserted through, bent down
onto the track and soldered each side.  Longer lengths of rotten track
can be bridged with lengths of Wire-Wrap wire or for power traces,
telephone wire (solid conductor).

 *Fortunately*, board manufacturing quality is usually such that the
corrosion does not get *under* the track (other than by eating right
through) and for this reason does not usually damage the internal
connections of vias, or blind (rare) or hidden vias.  Most of the
circuitry near the battery/ keyboard connector on PCs old enough to use
Ni-Cds is sparse and does not use the internal planes, or can be seen
and thus bridged if necessary.

 Small amounts of damage can be cleaned repaired and if the battery is
removed (forever), the board will have a good life.  *All* boards with
Ni-Cds should be prophylactically treated by removal of the battery
immediately and its reconnection via at least 6 inches of insulated
miniature twin ("figure-8").  This can then be replaced as it degrades.
--
 Cheers,
       Paul B.


'clean up the mess'
1999\11\01@004210 by William Kitchen
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> along the track.  If this will not bridge the gap, have someone hold a
> scrap of Tinned Copper Wire (cut-off resistor lead) along the track and
> solder that on.

Wire-wrap wire is good for this kind of work.  One can sometimes even salvage a
board with damaged inner layers by soldering a jumper directly to the component
pins at each end of the broken conductor.  This doesn't work for everything, but
it might be worth trying if the device is valuable enough to be worth the
trouble.  I've made modifications to multilayer prototypes by drilling holes
partway through the board to cut an internal trace, then using wire-wrap wire
to make new connections. An ohm meter lets you know when you've drilled deep
enough.  This can even be done for traces that are hidden behind planes if you
have the PCB artwork, which is usually the case when working with a prototype.

1999\11\01@043242 by wzab

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On Tue, Oct 31, 1995 at 11:08:00PM +0000, Luis Loeff wrote:
> Hi fellow piclisters,
> My PC board got corroded by a leaky nickel-cadmium battery. The PC is
> still working but some tracks and through holes nearby the battery
> look awful. Lots of blue-green stains. My first impulse would be to
> clean it with soup and water and a brush.
Instead of soup I'd rather suggest Coca Cola :-)
Sorry I just couldn't resist...
--
                       Wojciech Zabolotny
                       http://www.ise.pw.edu.pl/~wzab

http://www.debian.org  Use Linux - save your data and time

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