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Thread
'somebody need's sun/soulborne mboard?'
1996\11\01@082602
by
michele
I hope do not disturb anyone with this quite commercial announce :-)
Esto no es un mensaje tecnico, perdone por la molestia :-)
Hi,
i have some Sun and Solbourne main bord (new and used) and some graphics
card (mono and color)
If somebody is interested, please write me.
Thank you
Hola,
Yo tengo unas motherboard SUN y SOLBOURNE y Graphic Card (nuevas y no) si
algun estˆ interesado puedes escribirme.
Muchas Gracias
Michele
spam_OUTmichele.mTakeThisOuT
caen.it
1996\11\01@200411
by
Cameron Palmer
Michelle did you ever receive any of my messages about the ZIF socket?
CAMERON
----------
From: pic microcontroller discussion list on behalf of michele
Sent: Friday, November 01, 1996 7:11 AM
To: Multiple recipients of list PICLIST
Subject: somebody need's sun/soulborne mboard?
I hope do not disturb anyone with this quite commercial announce :-)
Esto no es un mensaje tecnico, perdone por la molestia :-)
Hi,
i have some Sun and Solbourne main bord (new and used) and some graphics
card (mono and color)
If somebody is interested, please write me.
Thank you
Hola,
Yo tengo unas motherboard SUN y SOLBOURNE y Graphic Card (nuevas y no) si
algun est=E0 interesado puedes escribirme.
Muchas Gracias
Michele
.....michele.mKILLspam
@spam@caen.it
1996\11\02@153153
by
michele
|
Hi Cameron,
I'm in a big trouble with my computer and my internet provider, yesterday i
have received your message (some days after) and i send your zif socket by
air mail i hope it arrive as soon as possible.
Please write me when it arrive.
Thanks
Michele
At 00.59 02/11/96 UT, you wrote:
{Quote hidden}>Michelle did you ever receive any of my messages about the ZIF socket?
>CAMERON
>
>----------
>From: pic microcontroller discussion list on behalf of michele
>Sent: Friday, November 01, 1996 7:11 AM
>To: Multiple recipients of list PICLIST
>Subject: somebody need's sun/soulborne mboard?
>
>I hope do not disturb anyone with this quite commercial announce :-)
>Esto no es un mensaje tecnico, perdone por la molestia :-)
>
>Hi,
>i have some Sun and Solbourne main bord (new and used) and some graphics
>card (mono and color)
>If somebody is interested, please write me.
>Thank you
>
>Hola,
>Yo tengo unas motherboard SUN y SOLBOURNE y Graphic Card (nuevas y no) si
>algun est=E0 interesado puedes escribirme.
>Muchas Gracias
>
>
>
>Michele
>
michele.m
KILLspamcaen.it
>
>
'PIC board?'
1998\01\28@203654
by
Luis Gustavo Covino
We would like to build a board based on the PIC controller
for educational purposes, using a keypad and display, with
communication to a PC to download programs. Do you know any
"operating system" to control a system like this? (In Portuguese
we say something like a "monitor" system).
Thanks in advance
Luis Gustavo
_________________________________
High Performance Computing Lab
University of Sao Paulo - Brazil
1998\01\29@074650
by
Alan G. Smith
> We would like to build a board based on the PIC controller
>for educational purposes, using a keypad and display, with
>communication to a PC to download programs. Do you know any
>"operating system" to control a system like this? (In Portuguese
>we say something like a "monitor" system).
Unfortunately the PICs (to the best of my knowledge) are not capable of writing
to their program
memory.
(If there are any newer exceptions to this, someone please let me know.)
This gives you 2 choices:
1) Use a toggle switch to go between "Load" and "Run" Look at
http://www.dontronics.com at the
SimmStick stuff and you'll see a good example.
2) Use 2 micros where one is the "main" micro and the other one is for
communications with the PC,
programming the chip, etc.
Best of luck,
Alan G. Smith
+---------------------------------------------------------
| Alan G. Smith
| .....agsKILLspam
.....poboxes.com
| http://www.innovatus.com/ags
1998\01\29@081444
by
Andrew Warren
'PIC/STAMP to play midi through roland midi board?'
1999\03\09@191902
by
ryan pogge
hello, I have a midi board laying around that used to be
attached to my SB16, It is made by Roland.
I was wondering if there was a way to interface it to a PIC
or other micro to play midi from an eprom
or something. is this going to be very complicated?
any ideas/starting points?
thanks Ryan
'[PIC]: Any interest in board?'
2000\08\10@132124
by
Howard McGinnis
|
Hopefully this doesn't violate the rules of the PIC list....
We recently completed the development of a 16F873 based controller module
for a customer's vending system and am wondering if there's any interest in
this board as a development board by PICsters.
The board is 3.5 x 3 inches designed to mount in a Polycase QS series
enclosure.
The board supports the 16F873 (and would support the 16F870 if it's ever
released).
There are 4 optically isolated inputs, 1 TTL input/output and 5 outputs.
The outputs are buffered by an Allegro 2597 to allow 3 inputs 1 amp sink
capability and 2 outputs are paralleled to provide 2 amp sink capability.
One I/O is a combination LED and shorting block input. The PORT A analogs
are bought out to a header but unused in our current application.
Interface to the board is currently through a 0.156 Molex connector, 17
position (12 for I/O, 3 for comm, 2 for power). We use a 12 and 5 position
connector in the application. If there's enough interest, we would probably
change it to support a small clamp style barrier strip in place of the Molex.
A LTC1485 provides a two wire RS-485 communication interface for multi-drop
applications. A 5 pin connector allows the communication lines to be
connected to other interface devices such as RS-232, IR and RF modules. If
there's enough interest, we would change to allow either the LTC1485 or a
DS275 for RS-232 to be used (separate sockets).
Our current design uses a 78L05 low power regulator, although we layed the
board out to support the 7805 in the TO-220 case if required. Our
application is in a 24 VDC system, so some 12 V zeners are present to ease
the load on the regulator ( on one board, I used 0 ohm resistors to allow
operation with 8-12 VDC power - it's my play board!). Our design uses a
Raychem Polyfuse, but a conventional fuse or no fuse could be used.
An engineer at another customers site asked me about a small controller
board for a non-work related application and I am considering another run
of boards just to have some on hand.
If there's interest in this board as a development board or even a
production board, please contact me directly at @spam@mcginnisKILLspam
e-visions.com.
Howard
Howard McGinnis
KILLspamhmcginniKILLspam
digital.net
Electronic Visions, Inc.
1650 Barrett Drive
Rockledge FL 32955
(321) 632-7530
http://ddi.digital.net/~hmcginni
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2000\08\10@134024
by
James Paul
|
Howard,
I would be interested in some. How many would depend on the cost per
board. Let me know further details, and I'll get back with you.
Thanks and Regards,
Jim
On Thu, 10 August 2000, Howard McGinnis wrote:
{Quote hidden}>
> Hopefully this doesn't violate the rules of the PIC list....
>
> We recently completed the development of a 16F873 based controller module
> for a customer's vending system and am wondering if there's any interest in
> this board as a development board by PICsters.
>
> The board is 3.5 x 3 inches designed to mount in a Polycase QS series
> enclosure.
>
> The board supports the 16F873 (and would support the 16F870 if it's ever
> released).
>
> There are 4 optically isolated inputs, 1 TTL input/output and 5 outputs.
> The outputs are buffered by an Allegro 2597 to allow 3 inputs 1 amp sink
> capability and 2 outputs are paralleled to provide 2 amp sink capability.
> One I/O is a combination LED and shorting block input. The PORT A analogs
> are bought out to a header but unused in our current application.
>
> Interface to the board is currently through a 0.156 Molex connector, 17
> position (12 for I/O, 3 for comm, 2 for power). We use a 12 and 5 position
> connector in the application. If there's enough interest, we would probably
> change it to support a small clamp style barrier strip in place of the Molex.
>
> A LTC1485 provides a two wire RS-485 communication interface for multi-drop
> applications. A 5 pin connector allows the communication lines to be
> connected to other interface devices such as RS-232, IR and RF modules. If
> there's enough interest, we would change to allow either the LTC1485 or a
> DS275 for RS-232 to be used (separate sockets).
>
> Our current design uses a 78L05 low power regulator, although we layed the
> board out to support the 7805 in the TO-220 case if required. Our
> application is in a 24 VDC system, so some 12 V zeners are present to ease
> the load on the regulator ( on one board, I used 0 ohm resistors to allow
> operation with 8-12 VDC power - it's my play board!). Our design uses a
> Raychem Polyfuse, but a conventional fuse or no fuse could be used.
>
> An engineer at another customers site asked me about a small controller
> board for a non-work related application and I am considering another run
> of boards just to have some on hand.
>
> If there's interest in this board as a development board or even a
> production board, please contact me directly at
spamBeGonemcginnisspamBeGone
e-visions.com.
>
> Howard
> Howard McGinnis
>
TakeThisOuThmcginniEraseME
spam_OUTdigital.net
> Electronic Visions, Inc.
> 1650 Barrett Drive
> Rockledge FL 32955
> (321) 632-7530
>
http://ddi.digital.net/~hmcginni
>
RemoveMEmcginnis
TakeThisOuTe-visions.com
>
> --
>
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> [PIC]: PIC only [EE]: engineering [OT]: off topic [AD]: advertisements
jimEraseME
.....jpes.com
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2000\08\10@142417
by
Dan Michaels
Howard McGinnis wrote:
>Hopefully this doesn't violate the rules of the PIC list....
..........
Howard,
I may be wrong, but it is my understanding that they setup
the [AD]: category to handle this sort of announcement. That
way people who don't want to experience commercialism on
piclist can filter out the header. [Jim, Mark ?????]
- danM
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2000\08\10@143617
by
jamesnewton
Please use the [AD]: topic tag (and not the [pic]: tag) for further posts on
this (or other sales related) thread.
---
James Newton (PICList Admin #3)
EraseMEjamesnewton
piclist.com 1-619-652-0593
PIC/PICList FAQ: http://www.piclist.com or .org
{Original Message removed}
'[PIC]: PIC Handy Board???'
2001\04\11@162546
by
Thomas N
Hi everyone,
Quick question for you:
Is there any "Handy Board" out there that's made for the PICmicro? Is there
any similar board out there? I want to develop a similar system as the
Handy board, but I am not sure where to start. Please help!
Thanks
Thomas
P.S. The Handy Board is develop by MIT and it is made for HC11 Micro.
_________________________________________________________________________
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2001\04\11@180604
by
Olin Lathrop
> Is there any "Handy Board" out there that's made for the PICmicro? Is
there
> any similar board out there? I want to develop a similar system as the
> Handy board, but I am not sure where to start. Please help!
I don't know what a "handy board" is, but Jameco has boards for simple PIC
prototyping. There is usually circuitry for the oscillator, power, ground,
MCLR, and a holes array for adding your own stuff.
********************************************************************
Olin Lathrop, embedded systems consultant in Littleton Massachusetts
(978) 742-9014, RemoveMEolinspam_OUT
KILLspamembedinc.com, http://www.embedinc.com
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2001\04\11@201725
by
Dan Michaels
2001\04\12@094834
by
Lawrence Lile
Yes, they are made by MicroEngineering labs. They are all set up with a
premade circuit that works for xtal or RC oscillators, all the ports are
brought out
to a row of holes, there's a big hole-per-pad prototyping area, all set up
for a 5 volt regulator, and so on. I use them like mad.
Jameco http://www.jameco.com lists them on page 18 of catalog +ACM-204 from US+ACQ-9.95
up. This with a Scott Edwards serial LCD and you are 2/3 the way to a
working board.
-- Lawrence Lile
{Original Message removed}
2001\04\13@111750
by
Mohamed Eldesoky
Do you mean HAndy device that is part of Oxygen project!!!????
Mohamed Eldesoky
~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Life is to try.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~
{Original Message removed}
2001\04\13@120521
by
Dan Michaels
'[PIC]:LCD Daughterboard?'
2001\09\16@113025
by
JP
Hi, I am looking at making an LCD daughterboard using a 16F84 and a 2x16 LCD display. There are two reasons,
1. To make an LCD module that I can use with various projects and simply unplug and plug into a different project.
2. The main reason is to allow me to only take up 1 or at most 2 I/O lines for the display. It will also be much easier being able to send the data to the daughterboard and then allowing that to do the rest of the display processing while the main processor gets on with it's other duties. This will also allow me to have the display used by more that one PIC at once.
Has anybody already done this? It seems like something that allot of people would use but I cannot search the PICLIST.com site as for some reason the links to the source / projects areas will not load.
Thanks,
JP.
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2001\09\16@123129
by
Bob Ammerman
Several vendors sell a PIC-n-LCD which should meet your needs nicely. Just
do a Google search.
Bob Ammerman
RAm Systems
(contract development of high performance, high function, low-level
software)
{Original Message removed}
2001\09\16@124611
by
JP
Sorry, I might not have explained, I want to make it not buy it. I was just
wondering if anyone else had come accross code for such a thing that I could
look at as an example.
{Original Message removed}
2001\09\16@125025
by
Raymond Choat
Scott Edwards sells one. Check his site. Sorry you will have to do a search
as I do not have URL.
Wrong Way Ray (Raymond Choat)
{Original Message removed}
2001\09\16@125851
by
Jeff DeMaagd
|
I don't know if this is what you want, but Joan Ilari has a nifty LCD &
keypad module to start from here:
http://www.terra.es/personal4/joan.ilari/lcd/lcd.htm
If you wanted it on some sort of two wire bus you would likely have to
make a PIC for it to convert the protocols.
The reason I think it is nifty is that eight wires is all that is needed
for basic input and LCD display, using the standard Hitachi LCD protocol
and cheap shift register chips, I don't think making a PIC interface
between an I2C or other serial link and the module would be that
difficult.
Also check piclist.com.
Jeff
----- Original Message -----
From: JP <RemoveMEpiclistKILLspam
MAILANDNEWS.COM>
> Sorry, I might not have explained, I want to make it not buy it. I
was just
> wondering if anyone else had come accross code for such a thing that I
could
> look at as an example.
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2001\09\16@133231
by
dpharris
Yo!
Robert Cote developed a model train controller which uses a 16 key ketbd and
LCD display and a 84/628. Code is available-- you could certainly hack
that. He can also sell you a wee pc board.
http://www3.sympatico.ca/robert.cote/dccnew0.htm
David
Jeff DeMaagd wrote:
{Quote hidden}> I don't know if this is what you want, but Joan Ilari has a nifty LCD &
> keypad module to start from here:
>
>
http://www.terra.es/personal4/joan.ilari/lcd/lcd.htm
>
> If you wanted it on some sort of two wire bus you would likely have to
> make a PIC for it to convert the protocols.
>
> The reason I think it is nifty is that eight wires is all that is needed
> for basic input and LCD display, using the standard Hitachi LCD protocol
> and cheap shift register chips, I don't think making a PIC interface
> between an I2C or other serial link and the module would be that
> difficult.
>
> Also check piclist.com.
>
> Jeff
>
> {Original Message removed}
2001\09\16@193910
by
Tony Nixon
|
JP wrote:
>
> Hi, I am looking at making an LCD daughterboard using a 16F84 and a 2x16 LCD display. There are two reasons,
>
> 1. To make an LCD module that I can use with various projects and simply unplug and plug into a different project.
>
> 2. The main reason is to allow me to only take up 1 or at most 2 I/O lines for the display. It will also be much easier being able to send the data to the daughterboard and then allowing that to do the rest of the display processing while the main processor gets on with it's other duties. This will also allow me to have the display used by more that one PIC at once.
>
> Has anybody already done this? It seems like something that allot of people would use but I cannot search the PICLIST.com site as for some reason the links to the source / projects areas will not load.
>
> Thanks,
>
> JP.
>
> --
> http://www.piclist.com hint: The PICList is archived three different
> ways. See http://www.piclist.com/#archives for details.
Hi JP,
I have a beginners LCD project in PDF format that explains 4 and 8 bit
mode running from a 16F84. Has about 11 code examples that finish up
reading messages from ROM tables to display messages.
If you would like a copy, I will post it to you.
--
Best regards
Tony
mICros
http://www.bubblesoftonline.com
salesSTOPspam
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2001\09\16@211240
by
Raymond Choat
|
please post it for all of us. Thanks
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tony Nixon" <spamBeGoneTony.NixonSTOPspam
EraseMEENG.MONASH.EDU.AU>
To: <KILLspamPICLISTspamBeGone
MITVMA.MIT.EDU>
Sent: Sunday, September 16, 2001 3:39 PM
Subject: Re: [PIC]:LCD Daughterboard?
> JP wrote:
> >
> > Hi, I am looking at making an LCD daughterboard using a 16F84 and a 2x16
LCD display. There are two reasons,
> >
> > 1. To make an LCD module that I can use with various projects and simply
unplug and plug into a different project.
> >
> > 2. The main reason is to allow me to only take up 1 or at most 2 I/O
lines for the display. It will also be much easier being able to send the
data to the daughterboard and then allowing that to do the rest of the
display processing while the main processor gets on with it's other duties.
This will also allow me to have the display used by more that one PIC at
once.
> >
> > Has anybody already done this? It seems like something that allot of
people would use but I cannot search the PICLIST.com site as for some reason
the links to the source / projects areas will not load.
{Quote hidden}
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2001\09\17@012638
by
Bob Blick
|
www.bobblick.com/bob/projects/lcdterm/ is a serial terminal using an
LCD and keypad. LCD's from 1x8 to 4x20 are easily configured.
Cheers,
Bob Blick
At 04:11 PM 9/16/2001 +0100, you wrote:
>Hi, I am looking at making an LCD daughterboard using a 16F84 and a 2x16
LCD display. There are two reasons,
>
>1. To make an LCD module that I can use with various projects and simply
unplug and plug into a different project.
>
>2. The main reason is to allow me to only take up 1 or at most 2 I/O lines
for the display. It will also be much easier being able to send the data
to the daughterboard and then allowing that to do the rest of the display
processing while the main processor gets on with it's other duties. This
will also allow me to have the display used by more that one PIC at once.
>
>Has anybody already done this? It seems like something that allot of
people would use but I cannot search the PICLIST.com site as for some
reason the links to the source / projects areas will not load.
{Quote hidden}
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2001\09\17@021725
by
kben
JP,
try these programs
www.piclist.org/techref/piclist/cheapic/index.htm
The PROGRAMS half way down the page should give you enough info to hack together
what you want. That's how I built my first couple of projects,
including an LCD Daughterboard. If you have any questions, you can contact
me
on-list or off.
Good Luck,
Kevin
>Sorry, I might not have explained, I want to make it not buy it. I was just
>wondering if anyone else had come accross code for such a thing that I could
>look at as an example.
>
>
>{Original Message removed}
2001\09\17@024327
by
Tony Nixon
2001\09\17@033641
by
Vasile Surducan
2001\09\17@041254
by
Bond, Peter
Hi -
> Hi, I am looking at making an LCD daughterboard using a 16F84
> and a 2x16 LCD display. There are two reasons,
2 wire LCD - http://www.rentron.com/Myke1.htm
(Assuming it hasn't already been posted...)
Peter
This email, its content and any attachments is PRIVATE AND CONFIDENTIAL to
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2001\09\17@151321
by
JP
|
I would like that please :)
JP.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tony Nixon" <.....Tony.Nixon
RemoveMEENG.MONASH.EDU.AU>
To: <RemoveMEPICLIST
spamBeGoneMITVMA.MIT.EDU>
Sent: Monday, September 17, 2001 12:39 AM
Subject: Re: [PIC]:LCD Daughterboard?
> JP wrote:
> >
> > Hi, I am looking at making an LCD daughterboard using a 16F84 and a 2x16
LCD display. There are two reasons,
> >
> > 1. To make an LCD module that I can use with various projects and simply
unplug and plug into a different project.
> >
> > 2. The main reason is to allow me to only take up 1 or at most 2 I/O
lines for the display. It will also be much easier being able to send the
data to the daughterboard and then allowing that to do the rest of the
display processing while the main processor gets on with it's other duties.
This will also allow me to have the display used by more that one PIC at
once.
> >
> > Has anybody already done this? It seems like something that allot of
people would use but I cannot search the PICLIST.com site as for some reason
the links to the source / projects areas will not load.
{Quote hidden}
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2001\09\17@162228
by
JP
Ok, I have read most of the stuff I can on these LCD's. Two Questions,
1. Writing in 4bit mode, do I set E high, set the 4 databits, Set E low,
Set E high, set the remaining 4 databits (d3 - d0) then set E low?
2. How can I Equate a variable to 4 bits of PortB? If using 8bit mode I
would simply use:
LCD-DATA equ PORTB
then later:
movwf LCD-DATA
So for 4 bit mode I need to be able to Equate LCD-DATA to PORTB (bits
4,5,6,7). How do I do this?
Thanks, and sorry if the above is a bit jumpled and makes no sense...
JP.
{Original Message removed}
2001\09\17@163156
by
M. Adam Davis
|
The msot recent Nuts n Volts has exactly what you are asking for. Two
hex files, one 2400 the other 9600 for a serial to lcd chip.
Check your local newstand. I couldn't find it at nutsvolts.com. If you
need it badly, I might be able to scan the hex file in for you. Wish
they'd give the code...
-Adam
JP wrote:
{Quote hidden}>Hi, I am looking at making an LCD daughterboard using a 16F84 and a 2x16 LCD display. There are two reasons,
>
>1. To make an LCD module that I can use with various projects and simply unplug and plug into a different project.
>
>2. The main reason is to allow me to only take up 1 or at most 2 I/O lines for the display. It will also be much easier being able to send the data to the daughterboard and then allowing that to do the rest of the display processing while the main processor gets on with it's other duties. This will also allow me to have the display used by more that one PIC at once.
>
>Has anybody already done this? It seems like something that allot of people would use but I cannot search the PICLIST.com site as for some reason the links to the source / projects areas will not load.
>
>Thanks,
>
>JP.
>
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>
>
>
>
>
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2001\09\17@172353
by
JP
Thanks but it is much more satisfying to write the code more or less myself.
It will help me learn faster too :)
{Original Message removed}
2001\09\18@145224
by
Benjamin Bromilow
|
For nibble mode, set the bits on the port then take E high then take it low
again, then change the bits on the port, set E high again and pulse E high
again. Then initiate the necessary delay (40us for most functions).
Don't forget to create a delay after switching on the LCD to allow
everything to settle down before giving commands. 30mS is more than enough
as I recall.
I believe the remote LCD daughterboard should work very nicely. I did
something very similar to driver some LEDs on a daughter board when I needed
to control 12 LEDs but didn't want to have to use 12 connecting wires. The
interesting bit I imagine will be brewing up an interface protocol. The
great thing about the LCD daughterboard is that the delay created by making
a serial interface will not matter too much because of the intrinsic delays
involved in writing to an LCD.
I got a CS550001 LCD module (2*16) from EIO. I got it to work with a 16F84.
I wrote up a quick app note, which EIO have posted on their technical page
for the CS550001 unit which includes source code for the CS550001 in nibble
mode with a 16F84 (the CS550001 only does nibble mode). Its not for a
daughterboard system but might give you some pointers. If you mail me off
list I can send a copy of the app note to you- otherwise its from
http://www.eio.com
Ben
{Original Message removed}
2001\09\18@171555
by
JP
Ok so I set the bits and then strobe E. Any ideas on the bit allocation?
BTW pls do mail me the exsmple :)
JP.
{Original Message removed}
2001\09\19@153031
by
Benjamin Bromilow
|
The CS55001 units I used can only work in nibble mode. As I was using a
16F877 for its AD converters etc and wasn't short on port pins I simply
connected the LCD to the PIC like this:
RB4 === E
RD7 === DB4
RD6 === DB3
RD5 === DB2
RD4 === DB1
RD3 no connection
RD2 no connection
RD1 no connection
RD0 no connection
Obviously this is only good if you can afford to have four pins not
connected to anything.
then did the following- put data to Port D, pulse E, swap high and lower
nibbles in Port D then pulse E again then delay
or........
movlw "B" ; =b'00100100'
call DISPLAY
movlw "E"
call DISPLAY
....etc etc
DISPLAY
movwf PORTD ; from before the function call
bsf PORTB,4
nop
bcf PORTB,4
swapf PORTD,F ; swap low bits into high bits of Port D
bsf PORTB,4
nop
bcf PORTB,4
movlw H'0C' ; enough for a 40uS delay
movwf STORE1
LOOP1
decfsz STORE1,1
goto LOOP1
return
This is how I did it in the end... Works fine. If the mhz of the PIC was
high enough, you might run into problems with the E pulse not being held
high for long enough but on 4Mhz oscillator, I had no problems. Initially I
tripled all delays to be extra sure then reduced them one by one when I knew
they were'nt a problem
Ben
{Original Message removed}
'[PIC]:F874 dev board?'
2001\12\14@115240
by
Micro Eng
In my travels...I have seen an F874 dev board, that had a large breadboard
area on it. But now I can't find it. Anyone point me to where it is again?
I would love a plcc based dev card, but the 40pin DIP is fine.
_________________________________________________________________
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2001\12\14@120821
by
ronruss
2001\12\14@124838
by
Al Williams
I just use a solderless breadboard. If you want something more semi
permanent, Radio Shack and Global sell a little PC board that exactly
matches the layout of a breadboard. No mask and they are usually filthy,
so plenty of flux :-)
The main connections you want are a reset switch, power, and the
resonator. If you want to use a bootloader, check out
http://www.al-williams.com/awce/rs1.htm for an easy way to hook a serial
cable up to a PIC in a breadboard. In fact, we have an '873 set up like
this at http://www.al-williams.com/awce/app1.htm
The little breadboard looking PCBs are great for this sort of thing.
Al Williams
AWC
> {Original Message removed}
2001\12\14@134345
by
Mark Skeels
2001\12\17@161853
by
Rock Thompson
2001\12\19@100401
by
Tsvetan Usunov
'[AD:] Yet another PIC prototype board?'
2003\11\24@062002
by
Tom Deutschman
|
Is there room (need) for yet another PIC proto board? I'm considering
designing and marketing a couple of PIC prototype boards. I am looking
for input on features such as processors supported, desired peripherals
(LCD, switches, LEDs, relays, digital pots, frequency synthesizers,
audio amplifiers, keypads, etc.), size, cost, quality. Would folks like
to see board with high-end PICMicro in SMT pre-soldered to board. Also
considering supplying quick-turn "custom" proto boards if there is
adequate demand for a particular configuration of above features. Any
input would be greatly appreciated. Why am I doing this? After almost 25
years of working for other companies, I have finally jumped ship to work
for myself. Translate this into moving to Spokane, WA USA for another
start-up only to see it reduce staff by almost 50% in the past several
months. So here we are in Spokane and here we want to stay. Thank you
much for any input.
Best regards,
Tom Deutschman
http://www.wizbangdesigns.com <http://www.wizbangdesigns.com/>
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2003\11\24@082330
by
Olin Lathrop
Tom Deutschman wrote:
> After almost 25 years of working
> for other companies, I have finally jumped ship to work for myself.
> Translate this into moving to Spokane, WA USA for another start-up
> only to see it reduce staff by almost 50% in the past several months.
> So here we are in Spokane and here we want to stay.
What a place to get stuck, ouch!
Do you plan on setting up a full web shop that takes real credit cards? In
other words, a real merchant account with real shopping cart software?
*****************************************************************
Embed Inc, embedded system specialists in Littleton Massachusetts
(978) 742-9014, http://www.embedinc.com
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2003\11\24@083544
by
Tom Deutschman
|
>
> Tom Deutschman wrote:
> > After almost 25 years of working
> > for other companies, I have finally jumped ship to work for myself.
> > Translate this into moving to Spokane, WA USA for another start-up
> > only to see it reduce staff by almost 50% in the past
> several months.
> > So here we are in Spokane and here we want to stay.
>
> What a place to get stuck, ouch!
>
> Do you plan on setting up a full web shop that takes real
> credit cards? In other words, a real merchant account with
> real shopping cart software?
>
Yes I do. Researching all of that now. My web host provides shopping
cart plug-in and I'll be setting up merchant services via Costco. I'll
even ship anywhere in the world :-)
Would like to design some hobby boards that have PIC and a variety of
state of the art peripheral IC's, along with the firmware to get
started. I plan to publish schematics, code, etc. for all designs.
Tom
http://www.wizbangdesigns.com
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2003\11\24@083957
by
D. Jay Newman
> Is there room (need) for yet another PIC proto board? I'm considering
> designing and marketing a couple of PIC prototype boards. I am looking
If you're doing pre-soldered SMD parts, you might want to talk with
James Caska. He's putting out a line of PICs that work with a Java
compiler. He might be willing to put out the bigger chips faster if
there were prototyping boards for them.
http://www.muvium.com/
--
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spamBeGonejayEraseME
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http://enerd.ws/robots/ !
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2003\11\24@085910
by
Olin Lathrop
Tom Deutschman wrote:
> Yes I do. Researching all of that now. My web host provides shopping
> cart plug-in and I'll be setting up merchant services via Costco. I'll
> even ship anywhere in the world :-)
Are you interested in reselling other people's products? In other words,
doing the stocking, sales, shipping, and collecting for a markup?
*****************************************************************
Embed Inc, embedded system specialists in Littleton Massachusetts
(978) 742-9014, http://www.embedinc.com
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2003\11\24@094325
by
Tom Deutschman
>
> Are you interested in reselling other people's products? In
> other words, doing the stocking, sales, shipping, and
> collecting for a markup?
Yes, Olin. I am interested. I'll call you later today. Need to get snow
tires on. We just got another 4" on top of the 6" from the other day.
Tom
>
>
> *****************************************************************
> Embed Inc, embedded system specialists in Littleton Massachusetts
> (978) 742-9014, http://www.embedinc.com
>
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2003\11\24@095153
by
Brian Clewer
Tom,
Don't forget that not everybody needs / wants a DEV board, but they will
need a programmer to get started. If you can build a good, cheap
programmer - maybe with ICD support into MPLAB, you can't go too far wrong.
Brian.
{Original Message removed}
2003\11\24@100300
by
Alan B. Pearce
>If you can build a good, cheap programmer - maybe
>with ICD support into MPLAB, you can't go too far
>wrong.
Well the ICD support is where you will founder, as the information is not
available for the ICD2 with MPLAB, and 18F chips, and for the product to
have a reasonable lifetime it will need these, as otherwise you are limited
to ICD1 with MPLAB version 5.xx, and 16F87x chips.
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2003\11\24@101129
by
Tom Deutschman wrote:
> >
> > Are you interested in reselling other people's products? In
> > other words, doing the stocking, sales, shipping, and
> > collecting for a markup?
>
> Yes, Olin. I am interested. I'll call you later today. Need to get snow
> tires on. We just got another 4" on top of the 6" from the other day.
>
> Tom
Damn, I'v forgotten to call my tire shop to book the
change to winter tires ! Better call right away, after
the 1 of Dec we are not allowed to use summer tires in
Sweden...
Thanks for the pointer !
:-)
Jan-Erik.
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2003\11\24@110250
by
Herbert Graf
|
> > > Are you interested in reselling other people's products? In
> > > other words, doing the stocking, sales, shipping, and
> > > collecting for a markup?
> >
> > Yes, Olin. I am interested. I'll call you later today. Need to get snow
> > tires on. We just got another 4" on top of the 6" from the other day.
> >
> > Tom
>
> Damn, I'v forgotten to call my tire shop to book the
> change to winter tires ! Better call right away, after
> the 1 of Dec we are not allowed to use summer tires in
> Sweden...
Really? You are FORCED to use winter tires?? Wow, I wish that were the case
here in Canada. Well that, and I wish positraction were a standard feature
on all cars, but hey, some people seem to love finding out how much flooring
your car when you've got zero traction helps... :) TTYL
----------------------------------
Herbert's PIC Stuff:
http://repatch.dyndns.org:8383/pic_stuff/
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2003\11\24@115726
by
Herbert Graf wrote :
> > Damn, I'v forgotten to call my tire shop to book the
> > change to winter tires ! Better call right away, after
> > the 1 of Dec we are not allowed to use summer tires in
> > Sweden...
>
> Really? You are FORCED to use winter tires??
Yup,
You MUST use "winter-tires" (studded or un-stubbed) between 1-Dec and 31-Mars.
And you MAY use *stubbed* winter tires only between 1-Oct and 30-April.
Jan-Erik.
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2003\11\24@224121
by
Intosh, Ph.D.
|
-----BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE-----
Hash: SHA1
source= http://www.piclist.com/piclist/2003/11/24/101129a.txt?
>Yes, Olin. I am interested. I'll call you later today. Need to get snow
>tires on. We just got another 4" on top of the 6" from the other day.
>
>Tom
Damn, I'v forgotten to call my tire shop to book the
change to winter tires ! Better call right away, after
the 1 of Dec we are not allowed to use summer tires in
Sweden...
Thanks for the pointer !
:-)
Jan-Erik.
- ----
It snowed here in 1985. Really. I saw it. Again in about '94. Perhaps
this year fits the pattern. Hope I get the job in Laredo, where the
weather is warmer.
- ---
Aubrey McIntosh
http://www.piclist.com/member/AM-vima-Y84
PIC/PICList FAQ: http://www.piclist.com
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2003\11\24@235126
by
William Chops Westfield
On Monday, Nov 24, 2003, at 19:38 US/Pacific, Aubrey McIntosh, Ph.D.
wrote:
>
> It snowed here in 1985. Really. I saw it. Again in about '94.
> Perhaps
> this year fits the pattern. Hope I get the job in Laredo, where the
> weather is warmer.
>
here, people buy expensive fancy all-wheel drive sport utility things,
and chains for the tires, just so they can drive for four or five hours
to GET to a place where it snows... (but it's still cheaper than
houses.)
BillW
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'[OT:] Yet another PIC prototype board?'
2003\12\01@055657
by
hael Rigby-Jones
|
{Quote hidden}> -----Original Message-----
> From: William Chops Westfield [
westfwspamBeGone
MAC.COM]
> Sent: 25 November 2003 04:49
> To:
RemoveMEPICLIST@spam@
spamBeGoneMITVMA.MIT.EDU
> Subject: Re: [AD:] Yet another PIC prototype board?
>
>
> On Monday, Nov 24, 2003, at 19:38 US/Pacific, Aubrey McIntosh, Ph.D.
> wrote:
> >
> > It snowed here in 1985. Really. I saw it. Again in about '94.
> > Perhaps
> > this year fits the pattern. Hope I get the job in Laredo, where the
> > weather is warmer.
> >
> here, people buy expensive fancy all-wheel drive sport utility things,
> and chains for the tires, just so they can drive for four or
> five hours
> to GET to a place where it snows... (but it's still cheaper than
> houses.)
>
> BillW
Here, people buy the same type of vehicle to drive their brats the 200 yards
to and from school in fine weather.
Mike
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'[EE] Small PC Board?'
2004\09\20@063429
by
John C Clements
I seem to recall here or on Slashdot, recent notice of a small PC
compatible full featured processor board. Very much smaller that the
mini-ITX form factor, running very low power. Am planning to use an
embedded PC in a project and wondering if anyone remembers the name of
the board and/or source? Seem to recall this was about 1 to 1.5 inches
wide and 3 to 4 inches long.
Hope this is the right tag line, etc. been lurking here for several
years, have learned an immense amount from the community, thanks to all.
Yes, I am planning to use a PIC somewhere in the project, probably in
the motor PWM boards.
Thanks in advance,
John Clements
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2004\09\20@064602
by
hael Rigby-Jones
|
>-----Original Message-----
>From: .....piclist-bouncesSTOPspam
@spam@mit.edu [piclist-bouncesEraseME
@spam@mit.edu]
>On Behalf Of John C Clements
>Sent: 20 September 2004 11:34
>To: RemoveMEpiclist
spamBeGonemit.edu
>Subject: [EE] Small PC Board?
>
>
>
>I seem to recall here or on Slashdot, recent notice of a small
>PC compatible full featured processor board. Very much
>smaller that the mini-ITX form factor, running very low power.
> Am planning to use an embedded PC in a project and wondering
>if anyone remembers the name of the board and/or source? Seem
>to recall this was about 1 to 1.5 inches wide and 3 to 4 inches long.
There are hundreds (maybe thousands) of tiny embedded PC's available. The
original "standard" for embedded PC's is PC104 (http://www.pc104.org/),
which includes an ISA bus so modules can be stacked. However, much smaller
boards are now avaiable, e.g. http://www.jumptec.de/ depending on the kind
of CPU speed, memory and peripherals you require,
If you get Circuit Cellar there are a lot of adverts for these boards, or
simply Google for "embedded PC"
Regards
Mike
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2004\09\20@071705
by
Ake Hedman
|
John C Clements wrote:
> I seem to recall here or on Slashdot, recent notice of a small PC
> compatible full featured processor board. Very much smaller that the
> mini-ITX form factor, running very low power. Am planning to use an
> embedded PC in a project and wondering if anyone remembers the name of
> the board and/or source? Seem to recall this was about 1 to 1.5 inches
> wide and 3 to 4 inches long.
>
> Hope this is the right tag line, etc. been lurking here for several
> years, have learned an immense amount from the community, thanks to all.
>
> Yes, I am planning to use a PIC somewhere in the project, probably in
> the motor PWM boards.
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> John Clements
The NANO-ITX boards from VIA is nice (12cm x 12cm)
http://www.viaembedded.com/product/epia_N_spec.jsp?motherboardId=221
Not as small as the one you saw though. They now also have some boards without the bulky connectors. http://www.viaembedded.com/product/epia_ms_spec.jsp?motherboardId=281
This is also a very interesting thingi at http://www.cdatas.com/ But then you probably has to go for Linux as your OS...
Regards
/Ake
-- ---
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eurosource, Brattbergavägen 17, 820 50 LOS, Sweden
Phone: (46) 657 413430 Cellular: (46) 73 84 84 102
Company home: http://www.eurosource.se
Kryddor/Te/Kaffe: http://www.brattberg.com
Personal homepage: http://www.eurosource.se/akhe
Automated home: http://www.vscp.org
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2004\09\20@080015
by
?J=2E_Pe=F1a?=
2004\09\20@093918
by
Mike Singer
2004\09\20@095523
by
SO-8859-1?Q?Ruben_J=F6nsson?=
|
Here is one "credit card sized":
<http://www.compulab.co.il/586core.htm>
Regards / Ruben
{Quote hidden}>
> I seem to recall here or on Slashdot, recent notice of a small PC
> compatible full featured processor board. Very much smaller that the
> mini-ITX form factor, running very low power. Am planning to use an
> embedded PC in a project and wondering if anyone remembers the name of
> the board and/or source? Seem to recall this was about 1 to 1.5 inches
> wide and 3 to 4 inches long.
>
> Hope this is the right tag line, etc. been lurking here for several
> years, have learned an immense amount from the community, thanks to all.
>
> Yes, I am planning to use a PIC somewhere in the project, probably in
> the motor PWM boards.
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> John Clements
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
http://www.piclist.com
> View/change your membership options at
> mailman.mit.edu/mailman/listinfo/piclist
>
==============================
Ruben Jönsson
AB Liros Electronic
Box 9124, 200 39 Malmö, Sweden
TEL INT +46 40142078
FAX INT +46 40947388
spamBeGoneruben@spam@
pp.sbbs.se
==============================
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2004\09\20@112011
by
Win Wiencke
2004\09\20@141643
by
D. Jay Newman
2004\09\20@202446
by
Shawn Tan Ser Ngiap
|
-----BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE-----
Hash: SHA1
On Monday 20 September 2004 18:34, John C Clements wrote:
> I seem to recall here or on Slashdot, recent notice of a small PC
> compatible full featured processor board. Very much smaller that the
> mini-ITX form factor, running very low power. Am planning to use an
> embedded PC in a project and wondering if anyone remembers the name of
> the board and/or source? Seem to recall this was about 1 to 1.5 inches
> wide and 3 to 4 inches long.
Well, these are not as small, but they're low power and 100% PC compatible
with support for flash based storage and PXE boot.. They're still small
though.. There are many configuration options available as well..
http://www.aeste.net/products/gaea.html
- --
with metta,
Shawn Tan
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'[EE] LQFP-48 to DIP adapter board?'
2006\03\13@212517
by
Marcel Birthelmer
Does anyone know of a place that sells LQFP-48 to DIP (0.1" spaced)
adapters? I've scoured the net, and the closest I found are the breakouts at
Jelu, which don't help since the arrangement is not breadboard-friendly.
2006\03\13@215300
by
Tarun Grover
Marcel,
You might want to check out http://www.schmartboard.com/index.asp. They
sell some interesting adapter boards which I was introduced to recently by a
friend. I don't know how well they would adapt to being bread-boarded but
it's worth a look. I have a few of these but I'm not breadboarding directly
so it's not that big a concern for me, although they do use proper 0.1" pin
spacing.
Let us know what you think.
-Tarun.
On 3/13/06, Marcel Birthelmer <spamBeGonemarcelb.listsspam_OUT
RemoveMEgmail.com> wrote:
>
> Does anyone know of a place that sells LQFP-48 to DIP (0.1" spaced)
> adapters? I've scoured the net, and the closest I found are the breakouts
> at
> Jelu, which don't help since the arrangement is not breadboard-friendly.
> -
2006\03\13@222727
by
Timothy Weber
Tarun Grover wrote:
> Marcel,
>
> You might want to check out http://www.schmartboard.com/index.asp. They
> sell some interesting adapter boards which I was introduced to recently by a
> friend. I don't know how well they would adapt to being bread-boarded but
> it's worth a look. I have a few of these but I'm not breadboarding directly
> so it's not that big a concern for me, although they do use proper 0.1" pin
> spacing.
I use the SchmartBoards and just add solid-core wires to break out the
signals I'm interested in. Messy, but I haven't needed a lot of lines
out so far so it hasn't been an issue.
Looking at the spacing just now, I think you could probably use 0.1"
pins to attach them to a breadboard, but the boards are about 2" square,
so you'd end up having to run the headers on two adjacent breadboard
sockets, taking up quite a bit of space. (Let me know if that doesn't
make sense - I'll make a picture.)
--
Timothy J. Weber
http://timothyweber.org
2006\03\14@154817
by
Marcel Birthelmer
|
That does make sense, but in the end it would be a solution equivalent to
mounting it on the jelu breakout board. At this point, I'm hoping for one of
sparkfun's development for a similar and reasonably pin-compatible chip to
do the job.
Thanks for the input though.
On 3/13/06, Timothy Weber <.....tw
RemoveMEtimothyweber.org> wrote:
{Quote hidden}>
> Tarun Grover wrote:
> > Marcel,
> >
> > You might want to check out
http://www.schmartboard.com/index.asp. They
> > sell some interesting adapter boards which I was introduced to recently
> by a
> > friend. I don't know how well they would adapt to being bread-boarded
> but
> > it's worth a look. I have a few of these but I'm not breadboarding
> directly
> > so it's not that big a concern for me, although they do use proper 0.1"
> pin
> > spacing.
>
> I use the SchmartBoards and just add solid-core wires to break out the
> signals I'm interested in. Messy, but I haven't needed a lot of lines
> out so far so it hasn't been an issue.
>
> Looking at the spacing just now, I think you could probably use 0.1"
> pins to attach them to a breadboard, but the boards are about 2" square,
> so you'd end up having to run the headers on two adjacent breadboard
> sockets, taking up quite a bit of space. (Let me know if that doesn't
> make sense - I'll make a picture.)
> --
> Timothy J. Weber
>
http://timothyweber.org
> -
'[SX] Servos on SX48/52 Proto Board?'
2006\12\04@210533
by
jcpolen/a
|
In SX Microcontrollers, SX/B Compiler and SX-Key Tool, jcpole wrote:Hi all...
I've got a bunch of SX48/52 proto boards that I have used to build a custom brain for a combat robot I'm designing. My programs work just fine, and I'm at the point where I need to actually make the little guy move, and I've hit a snag. Is there anything special that I need to do to enable the servo connectors on these boards? The schematics seem to show that they are already hardwired, but I don't get anything when I connect servos to the boards.
The schematics also mention a connection (actually, several connections) for Vsvo. I seem to recall reading somewhere that one shouldn't use regulated power for servos and DC motors - do I need to connect an alternate power source for the servos?
I know that my servo logic is good because I tested the basic program (movement only) on a BS2px. The boards just don't seem to be providing any power to the servo connectors.
Thanks...
Jamie
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2006\12\04@230656
by
PJMontyn/a
|
In SX Microcontrollers, SX/B Compiler and SX-Key Tool, PJMonty wrote:Jamie,
As I recall, the power switch switch is a three position switch. Position 0 = OFF, position 1 = Power to logic only, position 2 = power to logic and servos.
I use regulated power for servos all the time, but that's because I'm driving them from a big 100 VAC powered supply. If you're running off batteries for your bot, then giving them raw battery power is probably better. Just make sure the battery voltage doesn't exceed the allowed voltage for the servos.
In addition, you can't really power them from the regulator on the proto board since it's a linear regulator limited to about 1 AMP - but only with a heatsink the size of Cleveland. Run a bunch of servos and you;ll get a burning hot voltage regulator in no time.
[list]Thanks,
PeterM[/list]
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2006\12\05@045021
by
kd5dhun/a
In SX Microcontrollers, SX/B Compiler and SX-Key Tool, kd5dhu wrote:[2]
In addition to Peter's info make sure that you have selected the voltage source for the four 3-pin headers. To the right of last servo connector is a spot for a horizontal 3-pin header, this will allow you to select VDD or VIN for the servo headers. As shown in the attached picture this board is set to supply VDD to the servo connector. Also you will need to connect the signal pin of the three pin servo header to the SX. In the attached photo, the white wire connected to servo header '0' is connected to RA.0
[/2]
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2006\12\05@065334
by
jcpolen/a
In SX Microcontrollers, SX/B Compiler and SX-Key Tool, jcpole wrote:Thanks Peter and Mike!
I knew that I had to have been missing something boneheaded... :-)
It never even occurred to me that a jumper was needed to select the voltage source - of course, that would explain why there's no continuity across those pins, wouldn't it? ;-) It's always the simple things - I practically have a neural network running on these SXs, and I get strung up by a missing voltage select jumper. Gotta love it...
As far as the amperage for the servos, I was wondering about that...
Thanks again...
Jamie
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'[PIC] 18F45J10 - causing a short on the board?'
2007\10\16@110038
by
alan smith
Has anyone used the 44 QFP package for this part? This is one of those strange things thats going to turn out to be somthing else..but so far it points to the chip. I have a 3.3V power to ground short, so I used a short sniffer to isolate the area, then started to isolate it further. The short is measuring less than 4 ohms from power to ground.
I lifted the two power pins on the chip and it cleared it up. I've verified that the chip is down correctly, and that the power pins are connected correctly. The one thing I forgot was the 10uF cap for the internal regulator, but that shouldnt cause a power to ground short. This test is unpowered as well. I did power it up, but once I saw the supply was being dragged down I shut it off and did the check. The fact that the cap wasn't there...could maybe have damaged the PIC?
---------------------------------
Be a better Heartthrob. Get better relationship answers from someone who knows.
Yahoo! Answers - Check it out.
2007\10\16@172216
by
Spehro Pefhany
|
Quoting alan smith <micro_eng2
@spam@yahoo.com>:
> Has anyone used the 44 QFP package for this part? This is one of
> those strange things thats going to turn out to be somthing
> else..but so far it points to the chip. I have a 3.3V power to
> ground short, so I used a short sniffer to isolate the area, then
> started to isolate it further. The short is measuring less than 4
> ohms from power to ground.
>
> I lifted the two power pins on the chip and it cleared it up.
> I've verified that the chip is down correctly, and that the power
> pins are connected correctly. The one thing I forgot was the 10uF
> cap for the internal regulator, but that shouldnt cause a power to
> ground short. This test is unpowered as well. I did power it up,
> but once I saw the supply was being dragged down I shut it off and
> did the check. The fact that the cap wasn't there...could maybe
> have damaged the PIC?
More likely a difficult-to-see short such as a bit of solder behind
the pins that disappeared when you unsoldered them.
Best regards,
Spehro Pefhany
'[SX] SX48 Controller Board?'
2007\12\29@101907
by
ringlordn/a
In SX Microcontrollers, SX/B Compiler and SX-Key Tool, ringlord wrote:All--
I recently discovered the SX Controller Board which uses the SX28 chip. My question may be very simple and very obvious . . . to everyone but me!
I wonder why Parallax chose the 28 pin SX chip instead of the 48 pin SX chip with the extra I/O pins for the product?
It APPEARS that the SX chip is pretty much standalone except for power and the external ocillators needed. (I am nowhere near to being well-versed in electronics.) Is there a schematic describing such a cobbled-together device?
Thanks!
--Bill
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2007\12\29@122920
by
Henrymoun/a
In SX Microcontrollers, SX/B Compiler and SX-Key Tool, Henrymou wrote:Bill
It could be that people need a programming board to program the SX28 because it is a DIP chip
I don't ever put the SX controller board on a project because it's size dosn't go anywhere.
Recently I made a smaller SX board because of this.
Thats why I think it uses the SX28
bye
-Henry
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'[SX] Source of Cable assembly for Prof Dev Board?'
2008\02\01@105641
by
johncouturen/a
In SX Microcontrollers, SX/B Compiler and SX-Key Tool, johncouture wrote:On the Professional Development Board, in the upper right corner, is a dual row connector ("X1") for an LCD panel. Does anyone know of a source for a 6-9" cable that will connect from that to a STRAIGHT, SINGLE ROW connector of 14 pins (something similar to the picture attached below).
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2008\02\01@115132
by
PJMontyn/a
In SX Microcontrollers, SX/B Compiler and SX-Key Tool, PJMonty wrote:John,
How about this:
http://www.toby.co.uk/content/catalogue/products.asp?series=A04a-xx-BT1-G
I stumbled around for a bit trying to find this. For what it is worth, my Google search terms were:single row idc
I mention this in case the above link doesn't work out for you and you want to pick up where I left off.
Thanks,
PeterM
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2008\02\01@121253
by
johncouturen/a
In SX Microcontrollers, SX/B Compiler and SX-Key Tool, johncouture wrote:Thank you Peter!
You are right though, I was looking for the whole thing already done (for the school).
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2008\02\02@165208
by
johncouturen/a
In SX Microcontrollers, SX/B Compiler and SX-Key Tool, johncouture wrote:Peter,
You did get me on the right track though!
On Prof Dev Board
14 pin IDC Socket, Dual Row
Mouser # 164-9007, $0.46 ea
On LCD
14 pin IDC Socket, Single Row
Mouser # 581-208284014000030, $3.34
Then ribbon cable between.
I haven't seen these yet (order pending) but it looks like it will work. Thank you again Peter. Sometimes I just need the right search terms.
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2008\02\02@223414
by
PJMontyn/a
|
In SX Microcontrollers, SX/B Compiler and SX-Key Tool, PJMonty wrote:John,
I'm glad you took up the baton and found what you needed. You're right about having correct the search terms, that's why I posted them. I have a friend who isn't computer savvy at all, but he always seems to know the right terms for Craigslist to find what he's looking for. When I saw your situation, those were the terms that popped into my head. They seemed to offer some decent hits.
Glad to see you found your parts "locally," rather than all the way in the U.K. I also appreciate the details on the Mouser part numbers. This is something that I just know I'll need one of these days.
Thanks,
PeterM
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'[SX] Program SX to act as HID device ie keyboard? '
2008\02\06@183018
by
gth629en/a
|
In SX Microcontrollers, SX/B Compiler and SX-Key Tool, gth629e wrote:Okay,
Here is what I need to do or find out if it is possible.
Lets say I have 20 standard I/O switches. With the propeller chip, can you detect those switches and program it to send ASCII keyboard codes to the PC via PS/2 or USB.
So pretty much I need to detect when a switch has been closed and in return send the ASCII command to computer. Like making your own keyboard. Also it would have to be able to realize when a key is continuously pressed.
I am at whits end and I know this has to be possible with some kind of PIC.
Please let me know if you have any idea. Thanks
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'[EE] What Kind of Wire for Veroboard?'
2008\12\23@194502
by
solarwind
|
This may seem like yet another noob question, but I don't want to find
out the hard way half way through my project. I have tried to google
the answer to this, honestly, but didn't get many results. Wikipedia
didn't have much information on this either.
What kind of wire should I use for prototyping on Veroboards? For
breadboards, I use thin, single strand copper wire because it's stiff
and it sticks into the hole easily. However, veroboard does not
require that stiffness and the stiffness may actually be detrimental?
All I know about wire is that there are single stranded, multiple
stranded, thin and thick and a whole bunch of specialty types. Which
should I use for Veroboards? I don't want the wire occupying half the
board so I think it should be pretty thin, and I think I should get
the multiple stranded type for flexability. Also, I think the multiple
stranded copper wire will allow the solder to get between the gaps in
the wire easier, but I'm not too sure on this. What are your opinions
on this?
Please share your success stories as well.
--
solarwind
2008\12\23@200932
by
marty
> .
>
> What kind of wire should I use for prototyping on Veroboards? For
> All I know about wire is that there are single stranded, multiple
> stranded, thin and thick and a whole bunch of specialty types. Which
> should I use for Veroboards? I don't want the wire occupying half the
> board so I think it should be pretty thin, and I think I should get
> the multiple stranded type for flexability. Also, I think the multiple
> stranded copper wire will allow the solder to get between the gaps in
> the wire easier, but I'm not too sure on this. What are your opinions
> on this?
Solid strand for sure. It doesn't bunch up through a hole, and you can
route it by hand with whatever corners are needed.
How much board is occupied by wires is determined by the distance
between holes not wire diameter. Unless you use big wire like mains
cable.
2008\12\23@201006
by
Detrick Merz
|
I tend to take apart solid conductor ethernet cable and use it for
most things I need to point-to-point wire. The stranded stuff, for my
fingers anyway, seems harder to use in those situations. Most of what
I'm doing is Manhatten style construction, a bit different from vero
boards, but not terribly.
On Tue, Dec 23, 2008 at 7:44 PM, solarwind <EraseMEx.solarwind.xRemoveME
STOPspamgmail.com> wrote:
{Quote hidden}> This may seem like yet another noob question, but I don't want to find
> out the hard way half way through my project. I have tried to google
> the answer to this, honestly, but didn't get many results. Wikipedia
> didn't have much information on this either.
>
> What kind of wire should I use for prototyping on Veroboards? For
> breadboards, I use thin, single strand copper wire because it's stiff
> and it sticks into the hole easily. However, veroboard does not
> require that stiffness and the stiffness may actually be detrimental?
>
> All I know about wire is that there are single stranded, multiple
> stranded, thin and thick and a whole bunch of specialty types. Which
> should I use for Veroboards? I don't want the wire occupying half the
> board so I think it should be pretty thin, and I think I should get
> the multiple stranded type for flexability. Also, I think the multiple
> stranded copper wire will allow the solder to get between the gaps in
> the wire easier, but I'm not too sure on this. What are your opinions
> on this?
>
> Please share your success stories as well.
>
> --
> solarwind
2008\12\23@202518
by
Dwayne Reid
At 05:44 PM 12/23/2008, solarwind wrote:
>What kind of wire should I use for prototyping on Veroboards?
I like to use the #24 solid wire used by the telephone company in
their multi-pair cables. Solid conductor cat5 cable is similar but
there are only 5 colors (8 color pairs) in cat5 cable vs the 10 color
(50 color pairs) inside 25 pair or larger telco cable.
Give your local telephone company a call and talk to an installer. A
few feet of 50 pair or 100 pair cable will last you a VERY long time.
dwayne
--
Dwayne Reid <RemoveMEdwaynerKILLspam
TakeThisOuTplanet.eon.net>
Trinity Electronics Systems Ltd Edmonton, AB, CANADA
(780) 489-3199 voice (780) 487-6397 fax
http://www.trinity-electronics.com
Custom Electronics Design and Manufacturing
2008\12\23@214301
by
Michael Algernon
Wirewrap wire ( 30 gauge solid ) can be pretty wonderful for certain
uses. With a wirewrap tool, you can really rock.
www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103243
www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062640
MA
>
> On Dec 23, 2008, at 6:23 PM, Dwayne Reid wrote:
>
> At 05:44 PM 12/23/2008, solarwind wrote:
>
>> What kind of wire should I use for prototyping on Veroboards?
>
>
WFT Electronics
Denver, CO 720 222 1309
" dent the UNIVERSE "
All ideas, text, drawings and audio , that are originated by WFT
Electronics ( and it's principals ), that are included with this
signature text are to be deemed to be released to the public domain as
of the date of this communication .
2008\12\23@221052
by
solarwind
Everyone here is recommending solid (single stranded) wire. Why is
that? I always thought it was stiffer and harder to work with...
2008\12\23@230653
by
apptech
|
> Everyone here is recommending solid (single stranded) wire. Why is
> that?
Experience :-)..
Overall multistrand tends to be much harder for use with vero.
You can suit the wire size used to the required stiffness.
Multi strand wire tends to lead to spread strands and intertrack solder
bridges.
The stiffness can be used to "set" the wires into a desired position leading
to a neater layout.
I have used both. and strander has some advantages, but I'd usually use
single strand.
MA's suggestion of wire-wrap wire bears looking at. This is VERY thin wire,
usually silver plated, under a tenacious insulation layer. You can get PTFE
insulated or "Kynar" - a PTFE relataive. You can wrap Kynar around a hot
solderig iron tip and it just looks unhappy but largely ignores the iron.
Kynar is very tricky to strip - you need a sharp edge and some practice.
Broken wires while strippong are the initial norm. Despote this Kynar
insulated WW wire is often an excellent choice for solder breadboarding. Not
too good for plug in breadboards due to small size.
.
Russell
> I always thought it was stiffer and harder to work with...
Yes, often.
No.
2008\12\23@232836
by
solarwind
|
On Tue, Dec 23, 2008 at 10:58 PM, apptech <spamBeGoneapptech
@spam@paradise.net.nz> wrote:
{Quote hidden}> Experience :-)..
> Overall multistrand tends to be much harder for use with vero.
> You can suit the wire size used to the required stiffness.
> Multi strand wire tends to lead to spread strands and intertrack solder
> bridges.
> The stiffness can be used to "set" the wires into a desired position leading
> to a neater layout.
>
> I have used both. and strander has some advantages, but I'd usually use
> single strand.
>
> MA's suggestion of wire-wrap wire bears looking at. This is VERY thin wire,
> usually silver plated, under a tenacious insulation layer. You can get PTFE
> insulated or "Kynar" - a PTFE relataive. You can wrap Kynar around a hot
> solderig iron tip and it just looks unhappy but largely ignores the iron.
> Kynar is very tricky to strip - you need a sharp edge and some practice.
> Broken wires while strippong are the initial norm. Despote this Kynar
> insulated WW wire is often an excellent choice for solder breadboarding. Not
> too good for plug in breadboards due to small size.
> .
> Russell
>
>> I always thought it was stiffer and harder to work with...
>
> Yes, often.
> No.
>
Alright, stiff, single-stranded wire it is then. I have loads of that
lying around.
--
solarwind
2008\12\24@041504
by
Alan B. Pearce
>What kind of wire should I use for prototyping on Veroboards?
>For breadboards, I use thin, single strand copper wire because
>it's stiff and it sticks into the hole easily. However,
>veroboard does not require that stiffness and the stiffness
>may actually be detrimental?
As with many answers, the answer is 'it depends ...'
If using veroboard with copper strips, then what a lot of people do is use
insulated wire on the component side, poked through the holes, and soldered
to the tracks. Such wire can be single or multi-strand. Many people find
single strand is good for this, as it can be cut to length, the ends
stripped of insulation, and then the bare ends bent at the correct spacing
for the pair of holes that they are to go through.
Single strand wire from old telephone cabling is an ideal size for this
purpose, thinner stuff like wire wrap wire is too thin. Wire wrap wire is
ideal for the purpose of running patch wires when modifying PCBs, as it can
be nicely wrapped around the pins of components.
Multistrand wire is more difficult to do this with, as it doesn't hold the
shape well when attempting to bend it to go through the holes, and when
soldering the strands can tend to splay out and short to other tracks.
2008\12\24@042604
by
Alan B. Pearce
>Everyone here is recommending solid (single stranded) wire.
>Why is that?
For the purpose you want it is the easiest to work with.
>I always thought it was stiffer and harder to work with...
Telephone wire (as recommended by several of us) is a small enough size that
it is easy to use. If you attempt to use wire wrap wire, as someone
suggested, you will find that it is too fine and will spring all over the
place at just the wrong moment. Telephone wire is just that bit heavier, and
so doesn't suffer from the same issue, but is not that heavy that it gets to
be awkward to handle.
2008\12\24@093202
by
Jake Anderson
Alan B. Pearce wrote:
>> Everyone here is recommending solid (single stranded) wire.
>> Why is that?
>>
>
> For the purpose you want it is the easiest to work with.
>
>
>> I always thought it was stiffer and harder to work with...
>>
>
> Telephone wire (as recommended by several of us) is a small enough size that
> it is easy to use. If you attempt to use wire wrap wire, as someone
> suggested, you will find that it is too fine and will spring all over the
> place at just the wrong moment. Telephone wire is just that bit heavier, and
> so doesn't suffer from the same issue, but is not that heavy that it gets to
> be awkward to handle.
>
>
Cat-5 whilst readily available isn't as good as genuine "telephone wire"
The insulation on cat-5 shrinks back when its heated which is less than
awesome when you solder it, and untwisting the pairs is a PITA.
2008\12\24@093559
by
solarwind
And by telephone wire, do you guys mean the wire that you connect from
the wall socket to your phone?
2008\12\24@115920
by
Forrest Christian
|
solarwind wrote:
> And by telephone wire, do you guys mean the wire that you connect from
> the wall socket to your phone?
>
No, the type in the wall.
It's usually about 28GA and has 4 to 8 conductors, solid. You can get
raw cable like this from most home improvement and/or hardware stores.
I think walmart even has it. It's usually beige or grey. CAT5 cable
would also work (the type for in-wall, which is solid, not the stranded
for patch cables), but it is fairly heavily twisted. If you get real
"phone" or CAT3 cable, it isn't as nearly tightly wound, so it is easier
to work with.
My main gripe is that the PVC insulation tends to melt easily when
soldering, plus it tends to "shrink" away from the heat... that is, if
you have a wire which is stripped to a certain length, and then you
apply heat, the insulation actually ends up moving away from the heat
source. I've been thinking of buying some teflon (PTFE) or similar
high-temp wire just for this reason, but haven't really found a good
source for smaller spools in assorted colors.
-forrest
2008\12\24@121043
by
Joseph Bento
On Dec 24, 2008, at 7:35 AM, solarwind wrote:
> And by telephone wire, do you guys mean the wire that you connect from
> the wall socket to your phone?
> --
No. It's the #24 solid multicolored wire that you'll see (for
example) if you look at your company's punchdown panel in the phone
closet. Or if you see the telephone man servicing a distribution
panel at the street, you'll see hundreds of colored pairs of such
wire. Usually, an inquiry to a service man will yield a few feet of
such cable that will have upwards of over 100 conductors. Take an x-
acto knife and slice the jacket and you'll have enough wire to last a
very long time.
Joe
2008\12\24@145929
by
Philip Pemberton
solarwind wrote:
> What kind of wire should I use for prototyping on Veroboards? For
> breadboards, I use thin, single strand copper wire because it's stiff
> and it sticks into the hole easily. However, veroboard does not
> require that stiffness and the stiffness may actually be detrimental?
Use the same stuff you use for breadboards. For me that's 24 or 26 SWG
single-core insulated tinned copper wire. Over here, it's sometimes known as
"bell wire" (though I have no idea why...)
If you're feeling cheap, get a piece of Cat5 cable, strip the outer jacket and
use the 8 inner cores. It's not ideal, but it'll work.
--
Phil.
RemoveMEpiclistspam_OUT
philpem.me.uk
http://www.philpem.me.uk/
2008\12\24@150636
by
Carl Denk
Probably was (still is) use to connect house doorbell push buttons,
batteries to the solenoid door bell. :)
Philip Pemberton wrote:
{Quote hidden}> solarwind wrote:
>
>> What kind of wire should I use for prototyping on Veroboards? For
>> breadboards, I use thin, single strand copper wire because it's stiff
>> and it sticks into the hole easily. However, veroboard does not
>> require that stiffness and the stiffness may actually be detrimental?
>>
>
> Use the same stuff you use for breadboards. For me that's 24 or 26 SWG
> single-core insulated tinned copper wire. Over here, it's sometimes known as
> "bell wire" (though I have no idea why...)
>
> If you're feeling cheap, get a piece of Cat5 cable, strip the outer jacket and
> use the 8 inner cores. It's not ideal, but it'll work.
>
>
2008\12\24@171124
by
William \Chops\ Westfield
On Dec 24, 2008, at 8:59 AM, Forrest Christian wrote:
> My main gripe is that the PVC insulation tends to melt easily when
> soldering, plus it tends to "shrink" away from the heat...
"plenum grade" cable (CAT5 or whatever) will have teflon insulation, I
think.
I think it's pretty random whether a random cat5 patch cable pulled
from the bin of "these would cost too much to untangle" cables will be
teflon or PVC.
Teflon is somewhat annoying to strip compared to PVC. Silicone
insulated wire is a joy to solder, but I've never seen solid-core, and
it's expensive and "thick."
WW wire, with "kynar" insulation is a nice compromise, but it's
getting hard to find at reasonable prices.
BillW
2008\12\24@180837
by
Jinx
> Teflon is somewhat annoying to strip compared to PVC
Word
Some units for light aircraft I unwittingly wired with typical hook-up
wire had to be re-done with special fire-resistant wire. What a thoroughly
enjoyable day that was ;-{
2008\12\25@125823
by
Alan B. Pearce
>Some units for light aircraft I unwittingly wired with
>typical hook-up wire had to be re-done with special
>fire-resistant wire. What a thoroughly enjoyable day
>that was ;-{
That sounds like it would be halogen free cable. All the wiring in the
underground stuff at CERN is done with halogen free cable, and a good few
other underground installations as well. Used for good reason - guess what
it would be like if the sort of fumes you get when melting ordinary PVC
cable with a soldering iron occurred in an enclosed space you cannot get out
of quickly would be like. I somehow suspect an airplane falls into that
category ...
But I don't think that halogen free cable counts as Teflon. It is somewhere
between Teflon and PVC for stripping ease. Both Teflon and HF cable really
need heated tweezer type strippers to make a decent job.
2008\12\25@141629
by
Carl Denk
|
The more common aircraft electrical wire meets MIL-W-22759. Here is a
link to partial specs. Click on the insulation link for info on the
insulation. I believe that some of the important issues are
flammability, fatigue, and abrasion resistance. I use the stuff around
the house for severe applications.
http://nepp.nasa.gov/npsl/Wire/22759/22759.htm
And for sources would suggest for small quantities
www.wicksaircraft.com/catalog/product_cat.php/subid=11650/index.html
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/search/search.php
Note it is stranded, and not suitable for the push-in boards. I use
mostly a speedex stripper, but it strips easily, but don't knick the
conductors or early fatigue failure is likely.
Alan B. Pearce wrote:
{Quote hidden}>> Some units for light aircraft I unwittingly wired with
>> typical hook-up wire had to be re-done with special
>> fire-resistant wire. What a thoroughly enjoyable day
>> that was ;-{
>>
>
> That sounds like it would be halogen free cable. All the wiring in the
> underground stuff at CERN is done with halogen free cable, and a good few
> other underground installations as well. Used for good reason - guess what
> it would be like if the sort of fumes you get when melting ordinary PVC
> cable with a soldering iron occurred in an enclosed space you cannot get out
> of quickly would be like. I somehow suspect an airplane falls into that
> category ...
>
>
> But I don't think that halogen free cable counts as Teflon. It is somewhere
> between Teflon and PVC for stripping ease. Both Teflon and HF cable really
> need heated tweezer type strippers to make a decent job.
>
>
2008\12\25@165411
by
Jinx
> But I don't think that halogen free cable counts as Teflon
No, it wouldn't. Teflon (polytetrafluoroethylene) has an awful lot of
halogen in it
> All the wiring in the underground stuff at CERN is done with
> halogen free cable, and a good few other underground installations
> as well
You recall the warnings about overheating Teflon-coated cookware ?
The hydrogen fluoride (IIRC) fumes can off your favourite budgie, birds
being particularly sensitive to things that can kill them
2008\12\25@221219
by
Forrest W Christian
|
I think that all of the mentioned characteristics are *definitely* good
for aircraft use:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Swissair_Flight_111
Short version: Crash was believed to be caused by arcing created by
condensation entering cracked insulation in aging entertainment system
wiring. Subsequent fire burned quickly through the aircraft due to use
of flammable insulating blankets.
-forrest
Carl Denk wrote:
{Quote hidden}> The more common aircraft electrical wire meets MIL-W-22759. Here is a
> link to partial specs. Click on the insulation link for info on the
> insulation. I believe that some of the important issues are
> flammability, fatigue, and abrasion resistance. I use the stuff around
> the house for severe applications.
>
http://nepp.nasa.gov/npsl/Wire/22759/22759.htm
>
> And for sources would suggest for small quantities
> www.wicksaircraft.com/catalog/product_cat.php/subid=11650/index.html
>
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/search/search.php
>
> Note it is stranded, and not suitable for the push-in boards. I use
> mostly a speedex stripper, but it strips easily, but don't knick the
> conductors or early fatigue failure is likely.
>
> Alan B. Pearce wrote:
>
>>> Some units for light aircraft I unwittingly wired with
>>> typical hook-up wire had to be re-done with special
>>> fire-resistant wire. What a thoroughly enjoyable day
>>> that was ;-{
>>>
>>>
>> That sounds like it would be halogen free cable. All the wiring in the
>> underground stuff at CERN is done with halogen free cable, and a good few
>> other underground installations as well. Used for good reason - guess what
>> it would be like if the sort of fumes you get when melting ordinary PVC
>> cable with a soldering iron occurred in an enclosed space you cannot get out
>> of quickly would be like. I somehow suspect an airplane falls into that
>> category ...
>>
>>
>> But I don't think that halogen free cable counts as Teflon. It is somewhere
>> between Teflon and PVC for stripping ease. Both Teflon and HF cable really
>> need heated tweezer type strippers to make a decent job.
>>
>>
>>
2008\12\28@203342
by
Dave Lag
Carl Denk wrote:
> The more common aircraft electrical wire meets MIL-W-22759. Here is a
> link to partial specs. Click on the insulation link for info on the
> insulation. I believe that some of the important issues are
> flammability, fatigue, and abrasion resistance. I use the stuff around
> the house for severe applications.
> http://nepp.nasa.gov/npsl/Wire/22759/22759.htm
>
> And for sources would suggest for small quantities
> www.wicksaircraft.com/catalog/product_cat.php/subid=11650/index.html
> www.aircraftspruce.com/search/search.php
>
> Note it is stranded, and not suitable for the push-in boards. I use
> mostly a speedex stripper, but it strips easily, but don't knick the
> conductors or early fatigue failure is likely.
Current recommended aircraft wiring would be 22759/86A,
Teflon/Kapton/Teflon layers and yes, the strippers are $pecialized
D
'[EE] Any Suggestions for My Board?'
2009\03\29@215903
by
solarwind
|
--00221532cba03a563a04664c6d5c
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
I'm going to start off with something simple to etch. It's just going
to be a simple board with a space for a 28 pin PIC, a 0.1 uF
capacitor, and a 6 pin ICSP header which the PICKIT2 can attach to.
Image: http://img13.imageshack.us/img13/6762/imagetdl.png
The inside set of pins will be for the PIC, the outside set of pins
will be for header pins that will plug directly into a breadboard for
easy prototyping.
If anyone has any suggestions for my board, I would greatly appreciate it.
--
solarwind
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2009\03\29@223454
by
William \Chops\ Westfield
On Mar 29, 2009, at 6:59 PM, solarwind wrote:
> If anyone has any suggestions for my board, I would greatly
> appreciate it.
See my "Instructable" on hobbyist design rules:
http://www.instructables.com/id/Make-hobbyist-PCBs-with-professional-CAD-tools-by-/
Make your pads bigger. Make your power supply traces bigger too.
(shucks, make ALL your traces bigger.) Your bypass cap should be
closer to the supply pins.
This interferes with running traces between pins, which you've done
twice (and at least once (on the left, between pin 1 and 2 of the ICSP
connector) for no particularly good reason. OTOH, this may be good
practice...
It looks like the holes for your connector pins are the same size as
those for the PIC and cap pins, which will result in "big" holes for
the IC/cap (ok), or holes that are too small for the connector pins
(less OK.)
BillW
2009\03\29@223750
by
cdb
:: I'm going to start off with something simple to etch. It's just
:: going
:: to be a simple board with a space for a 28 pin PIC, a 0.1 uF
:: capacitor, and a 6 pin ICSP header which the PICKIT2 can attach to.
If this is your first time ever for etching a PCB, you might want to
make your tracks a little wider where you can. This means that if you
get the etching time or developing time (if using photo transfer
method) slightly off and you get poor definition at the edge of the
tracks, you'll still have plenty of copper available to do the job.
Once you've sussed out temperature and time, then revert back to
standard tracks.
Colin
--
cdb, colinspam
btech-online.co.uk on 30/03/2009
Web presence: http://www.btech-online.co.uk
Hosted by: http://www.1and1.co.uk/?k_id=7988359
2009\03\29@225332
by
eCHIP
part 1 502 bytes content-type:text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed (decoded 7bit)
Hi,
> The inside set of pins will be for the PIC, the outside set of pins
> will be for header pins that will plug directly into a breadboard for
> easy prototyping.
If you have the header being 300 mil wide, then you can plug this module
into the breadboard or the final target board.
The white connector is for ICSP/ICD and the blue DIP switch is to
isolate the RB6 and RB7 which may or may not be necessary.
See the attached picture.
Cheers
Ravi
part 2 28312 bytes content-type:image/gif; name=000_0291.gif (decode)

part 3 35 bytes content-type:text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
(decoded 7bit)
2009\03\30@034735
by
Clint Sharp
|
In message <spam_OUTa94764e0903291859x3b99a6ffuaed0b8550224551dspam_OUT
spam_OUTmail.gmail.com>,
solarwind <x.solarwind.xspam_OUT
gmail.com> writes
>I'm going to start off with something simple to etch. It's just going
>to be a simple board with a space for a 28 pin PIC, a 0.1 uF
>capacitor, and a 6 pin ICSP header which the PICKIT2 can attach to.
You're going to be using the internal oscillator on the PIC?
I'd add space for a crystal and associated capacitors. Move the 0.1uF
cap to the side of the PIC so it's immediately next to the chip with
negligible track length, route the ICSP traces so they don't have to
pass between IC pins.
Make the header pin holes larger.
A few extra millimetres of board won't hurt (it's not being crammed
into a shuttle payload) and will make it *much* easier to achieve a
board that will etch reliably every time because you can and should use
fatter traces. Consider adding a power LED.
When you build it, find header pins like;
uk.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProd
uct&R=2518402
so you can attach scope probes etc. easily
{Quote hidden}>
>Image:
http://img13.imageshack.us/img13/6762/imagetdl.png
>
>The inside set of pins will be for the PIC, the outside set of pins
>will be for header pins that will plug directly into a breadboard for
>easy prototyping.
>
>If anyone has any suggestions for my board, I would greatly appreciate it.
>
>--
>solarwind
>
>[ A MIME application / octet-stream part was included here. ]
>
--
Clint Sharp
2009\03\30@072151
by
olin piclist
solarwind wrote:
> The inside set of pins will be for the PIC, the outside set of pins
> will be for header pins that will plug directly into a breadboard for
> easy prototyping.
If you mean one of those solderless breadboards, that will be awkward. Your
board looks wide enough to cover up all the holes of the columns you plug
the board into.
********************************************************************
Embed Inc, Littleton Massachusetts, http://www.embedinc.com/products
(978) 742-9014. Gold level PIC consultants since 2000.
2009\03\30@105615
by
William \Chops\ Westfield
On Mar 30, 2009, at 4:22 AM, Olin Lathrop wrote:
> If you mean one of those solderless breadboards, that will be
> awkward. Your
> board looks wide enough to cover up all the holes of the columns you
> plug
> the board into.
I've seen wider boards commercially sold as "breadboard compatible."
Breadboards will accomadate "DIPS" up to 1.3 inches wide, and this one
seems a "typical" 0.8 inches (with pins on .5 inch centers, which
isn't so bad ...
The wires don't have to plug in to the breadboard AFTER your PCB; they
can go underneath, too.
BillW
'[EE] PC-based test system or USB I/O board?'
2009\12\26@122559
by
PICdude
|
Hi all,
I have been meaning to learn USB and to create a PC-based test
interface with it, so that I can use a PC to simulate various
sensors/triggers/signals to test products, and in same cases be able
to measure the product responses and determine if they're correct,
etc. But time is difficult to come by lately, and I'm now looking for
something off-the-shelf.
I would need the following I/O...
- At least 5 digital outputs (to simulate switching to ground, sending
5V and 12V power to the product under test, etc)
- 2 analog voltage outputs (8-bit is fine). I can use a couple D2A's
for this, assuming I have a couple SPI/I2C outputs, or 16 extra
digital outputs
- 2 variable resistance outputs (I can use digital pots again,
assuming I have enough digital outputs or 2 I2C/SPI outputs)
- 4 digital inputs to test outputs from the products.
- At least 36 (44 would be nice) extra inputs, which I'll use later
with phototransitors to "read" some 7-segment displays, and have the
PC interpret the results on the products.
- 2 analog inputs.
On the PC side I'd like it to have a direct USB connection to the PC
(no serial-to-USB interface). I'll need to write code so that the
operator will select the product model/configuration, and it will
setup the correct signals, tell the operator what the display should
show, and they can click "pass" or "fail" to move to the next test
step, so I need some type of scripting language on the PC side.
Anyone doing anything similar? Any commercial products do this
already, at a non arm-and-leg price? A generic I/O board with enough
analog and digital I/O's would be nice, but I would need the PC-side
scripting language to send/read the signals.
Cheers,
-Neil.
2009\12\26@131345
by
YES NOPE9
|
Consider a USB to i2c adapter. i2c modules of all types abound.
I could loan you my adapter that I bought from
http://www.i2cchip.com/ ($70)
They also have chips and modules ranging from $4 up.
Gus
{Quote hidden}> On Dec 26, 2009, at 10:25 AM, PICdude wrote:
>
> Hi all,
>
> I have been meaning to learn USB and to create a PC-based test
> interface with it, so that I can use a PC to simulate various
> sensors/triggers/signals to test products, and in same cases be able
> to measure the product responses and determine if they're correct,
> etc. But time is difficult to come by lately, and I'm now looking for
> something off-the-shelf.
>
> I would need the following I/O...
> - At least 5 digital outputs (to simulate switching to ground, sending
> 5V and 12V power to the product under test, etc)
> - 2 analog voltage outputs (8-bit is fine). I can use a couple D2A's
> for this, assuming I have a couple SPI/I2C outputs, or 16 extra
> digital outputs
> - 2 variable resistance outputs (I can use digital pots again,
> assuming I have enough digital outputs or 2 I2C/SPI outputs)
> - 4 digital inputs to test outputs from the products.
> - At least 36 (44 would be nice) extra inputs, which I'll use later
> with phototransitors to "read" some 7-segment displays, and have the
> PC interpret the results on the products.
> - 2 analog inputs.
>
> On the PC side I'd like it to have a direct USB connection to the PC
> (no serial-to-USB interface). I'll need to write code so that the
> operator will select the product model/configuration, and it will
> setup the correct signals, tell the operator what the display should
> show, and they can click "pass" or "fail" to move to the next test
> step, so I need some type of scripting language on the PC side.
>
> Anyone doing anything similar? Any commercial products do this
> already, at a non arm-and-leg price? A generic I/O board with enough
> analog and digital I/O's would be nice, but I would need the PC-side
> scripting language to send/read the signals.
>
> Cheers,
> -Neil.
>
>
>
> --
2009\12\26@194031
by
PICdude
|
I like this. A single I2C to USB interface with a bunch of I2C to
A/D, D/A, digital I/O interfaces would be a relatively simple
solution. If I am going to create my own PCB for this, I might as
well go with the chip option. Now I'm re-thinking why not just use a
USB PIC and force myself to learn that. I'll sleep on that.
The big open concern is the PC-side programming. I'm not sure I want
to get a full compiled development environment and mess with USB port
programming etc. What would be nice is if there's an API set that
lets me control the I2C devices from a generic scripting language
(perhaps sh, bash, etc under Linux or something similar under Win),
and gives me simple function calls such as read input port, set output
bit, etc). I need to research that.
Cheers,
-Neil.
Quoting YES NOPE9 <RemoveMEyesKILLspam
@spam@nope9.com>:
{Quote hidden}> Consider a USB to i2c adapter. i2c modules of all types abound.
> I could loan you my adapter that I bought from
>
http://www.i2cchip.com/ ($70)
> They also have chips and modules ranging from $4 up.
>
> Gus
>
>
2009\12\26@200256
by
YES NOPE9
|
The USB to i2c chip emulates a serial port. I think that google may
even reveal PIC code for this.
Talking to a serial port simplifies life for OS X, Windows and Linux.
All sorts of development environments support serial ports. Python,
Ruby , shells , F-script , RealBasic ( free for Linux )
Gus
On Dec 26, 2009, at 5:40 PM, PICdude wrote:
I like this. A single I2C to USB interface with a bunch of I2C to
A/D, D/A, digital I/O interfaces would be a relatively simple
solution. If I am going to create my own PCB for this, I might as
well go with the chip option. Now I'm re-thinking why not just use a
USB PIC and force myself to learn that. I'll sleep on that.
The big open concern is the PC-side programming. I'm not sure I want
to get a full compiled development environment and mess with USB port
programming etc. What would be nice is if there's an API set that
lets me control the I2C devices from a generic scripting language
(perhaps sh, bash, etc under Linux or something similar under Win),
and gives me simple function calls such as read input port, set output
bit, etc). I need to research that.
Cheers,
-Neil.
Quoting YES NOPE9 <yesspamBeGone
.....nope9.com>:
{Quote hidden}> Consider a USB to i2c adapter. i2c modules of all types abound.
> I could loan you my adapter that I bought from
>
http://www.i2cchip.com/ ($70)
> They also have chips and modules ranging from $4 up.
>
> Gus
>
>
'[EE] PC-based test system or USB I/O board?'
2010\01\03@183735
by
Alex Harford
On Sat, Dec 26, 2009 at 9:25 AM, PICdude <KILLspampicdude3
.....narwani.org> wrote:
> On the PC side I'd like it to have a direct USB connection to the PC
> (no serial-to-USB interface). I'll need to write code so that the
> operator will select the product model/configuration, and it will
> setup the correct signals, tell the operator what the display should
> show, and they can click "pass" or "fail" to move to the next test
> step, so I need some type of scripting language on the PC side.
>
> Anyone doing anything similar?
I am. I've found the Phidgets boards to be useful. Since they are
USB, you can just throw a hub in there and scale easily.
http://www.phidgets.com/products.php?category=0
The really nice thing is that they have a Python API (among others),
which makes it simple to integrate with manufacturing tests. wxPython
is a good gui toolkit to use.
My suggestion would be to minimize keyboard/mouse interaction to avoid
operator error, do your products have a barcode that could be scanned
to determine model / configuration?
Alex
'[EE] Cheap ARM board?'
2010\01\16@002058
by
Vitaliy
Hi List,
A customer asked if we can supply a custom solution that would include an
ARM processor, 8Mb of SDRAM, and 8Mb of flash. The target price is $20 or
less. It sounds like something that should be available off-the-shelf, but
so far I'm only finding boards with flash and SDRAM in the Kb range
(Coridium et al)
If an off-the-shelf board with these specs does not exist, how hard would it
be to build one? I imagine not very hard, but then again we've never worked
with ARM chips. Is it realistic to spend <$20/ea to manufacture it?
Vitaliy
2010\01\16@011608
by
YES NOPE9
{Quote hidden}>
> On Jan 15, 2010, at 10:19 PM, Vitaliy wrote:
>
> Hi List,
>
> A customer asked if we can supply a custom solution that would
> include an
> ARM processor, 8Mb of SDRAM, and 8Mb of flash. The target price is
> $20 or
> less. It sounds like something that should be available off-the-
> shelf, but
> so far I'm only finding boards with flash and SDRAM in the Kb range
> (Coridium et al)
>
> If an off-the-shelf board with these specs does not exist, how hard
> would it
> be to build one? I imagine not very hard, but then again we've never
> worked
> with ARM chips. Is it realistic to spend <$20/ea to manufacture it?
>
> Vitaliy
It looks like it would be tough going.....
Check these guys out
http://www.newmicros.com/
click on TiniARM
Gus
'[OT]Around the circuit board?'
2010\05\06@075312
by
cdb
I hve heard of round table discussions and sitting around a table, but
a job ad for an analog design engineer?
'The successful candidate will be able to use their design and testing
knowledge around the circuit board , power supplies and firmware in
this R&D environment. '
Colin
--
cdb, on 6/05/2010
'[EE] Copper clad perfboard?'
2011\12\31@170953
by
Eric Kort
So my latest electronics project worked great, and it looked great
(IMHO) on the top side of the perfboard, but was a bit of a mess on
the bottom (wiring) side which was a mix of bent leads and hookup wire
used to make the necessary connections. As a result I started to
think about moving up to photoresist PCB etching. But it occurs to me
that the process would be significantly simpler if I did not need to
drill the through holes. I am curious to know if anyone knows of a
source for copper clad perfboard (i.e., not just pads around the
holes, but completely plated on one side). With a bit of care with
registration, it seems one could etch the traces on such perfboard and
then the holes would be already be there!
Does anyone know where copper clad perfboard could be obtained? Or is
that a fundamentally dumb idea?
-Eri
2011\12\31@171929
by
Adam Field
|
On Sat, Dec 31, 2011 at 5:09 PM, Eric Kort <spam_OUTeric.kort
KILLspamexsilico.com> wrote:
> So my latest electronics project worked great, and it looked great
> (IMHO) on the top side of the perfboard, but was a bit of a mess on
> the bottom (wiring) side which was a mix of bent leads and hookup wire
> used to make the necessary connections. As a result I started to
> think about moving up to photoresist PCB etching. But it occurs to me
> that the process would be significantly simpler if I did not need to
> drill the through holes. I am curious to know if anyone knows of a
> source for copper clad perfboard (i.e., not just pads around the
> holes, but completely plated on one side). With a bit of care with
> registration, it seems one could etch the traces on such perfboard and
> then the holes would be already be there!
>
> Does anyone know where copper clad perfboard could be obtained? Or is
> that a fundamentally dumb idea?
>
> -Eric
Not exactly a whole clad bottom, but a compromise between connectivity
and isolation:
http://www.busboard.us/#BreadBoards
Look at all the patterns they have. I've been using the breadboard
pattern replicas and the 6H pattern. There's also plain stripboard
which you can cut the traces where appropriate. There is an actual
tool to make the cuts, but I'm not sure what you would call it.
2011\12\31@175150
by
KPL
|
I have been trying to switch from protoboards to homemade pcb's
recently (may be a fifth time in last few years :) and I am not quite
sure yet if that's worth the trouble at all. I can build a circuit on
a protoboard much faster than design a pcb that I can really make and
actually produce it. It is just a lot of work to properly design a
pcb, which can be really made at home, that means preferably
single-sided, with as little jumpers as possible, with not too many
traces between DIP pins, etc.
Finally, who cares what it looks like, and you can even make
protoboard look quite good, if doing it with care. The main problem
remains - it can be really difficult to replace a component in a wired
protoboard.
On Sun, Jan 1, 2012 at 00:19, Adam Field <RemoveMEadamRemoveME
EraseMEbadtech.org> wrote:
{Quote hidden}> On Sat, Dec 31, 2011 at 5:09 PM, Eric Kort <
KILLspameric.kort
spamBeGoneexsilico.com> wrote:
>> So my latest electronics project worked great, and it looked great
>> (IMHO) on the top side of the perfboard, but was a bit of a mess on
>> the bottom (wiring) side which was a mix of bent leads and hookup wire
>> used to make the necessary connections. As a result I started to
>> think about moving up to photoresist PCB etching. But it occurs to me
>> that the process would be significantly simpler if I did not need to
>> drill the through holes. I am curious to know if anyone knows of a
>> source for copper clad perfboard (i.e., not just pads around the
>> holes, but completely plated on one side). With a bit of care with
>> registration, it seems one could etch the traces on such perfboard and
>> then the holes would be already be there!
>>
>> Does anyone know where copper clad perfboard could be obtained? Or is
>> that a fundamentally dumb idea?
>>
>> -Eric
>
> Not exactly a whole clad bottom, but a compromise between connectivity
> and isolation:
>
>
http://www.busboard.us/#BreadBoards
>
> Look at all the patterns they have. I've been using the breadboard
> pattern replicas and the 6H pattern. There's also plain stripboard
> which you can cut the traces where appropriate. There is an actual
> tool to make the cuts, but I'm not sure what you would call it.
>
>
2011\12\31@180936
by
John Gardner
That's awesome, Adam. Thanks.
Jac
2011\12\31@184748
by
IVP
>As a result I started to think about moving up to photoresist
> PCB etching
Could I humbly suggest you DO look at drilling your own ?
I've not used perf board (Vero) for a very long time though I do
use breadboards, because 0.1" is not dead just yet
But for an equally very long time I've etched and drilled my own
prototype boards as so many parts are not 0.1". And in fact DIP
is more commonly no longer an option for ICs
The toner-transfer method is quick, cheap, simple and repeatable. A
$20 mini-drill and 1mm tungsten carbide bit is all you need for 99%
of through-hole. 1.2mm, 1.5mm and 3mm steel bits will cover the 1%
For the minimal investment it is so worth it
Jo
2011\12\31@190413
by
Carl Denk
I use a Dremel drill press to drill the holes. The center of the pad etched away makes a good punch mark to get the drill centered. :)
> $20 mini-drill and 1mm tungsten carbide bit is all you need for 99%
> of through-hole. 1.2mm, 1.5mm and 3mm steel bits will cover the 1%
>
> For the minimal investment it is so worth it
>
>
>
2011\12\31@200550
by
Joe Wronski
|
I don't know if you've considered another possibility we used to call "drill and mill". A drill like a mini hole saw is used to drill the through holes and it also creates a pad from the hole saw perimeter. As a tech in the 80's, I made many boards this way. We would create a layout on 0.1" graph paper (now, I would do it on a PC and print it, but that and a useable printer were big bucks back then), tape it to plain copperclad, and punch the hole locations, then "drill and mill". I wouldn't know where to find the mill drills now.
Joe W
On 12/31/2011 5:09 PM, Eric Kort wrote:
{Quote hidden}> So my latest electronics project worked great, and it looked great
> (IMHO) on the top side of the perfboard, but was a bit of a mess on
> the bottom (wiring) side which was a mix of bent leads and hookup wire
> used to make the necessary connections. As a result I started to
> think about moving up to photoresist PCB etching. But it occurs to me
> that the process would be significantly simpler if I did not need to
> drill the through holes. I am curious to know if anyone knows of a
> source for copper clad perfboard (i.e., not just pads around the
> holes, but completely plated on one side). With a bit of care with
> registration, it seems one could etch the traces on such perfboard and
> then the holes would be already be there!
>
> Does anyone know where copper clad perfboard could be obtained? Or is
> that a fundamentally dumb idea?
>
> -Eric
2011\12\31@201945
by
Chris Roper
It all depends on your experience level and the reason to create a PCB.
I used to etch my own boards, many years ago, but the chemicals I
used back then are considered a NO NO now, even if I could find them I
doubt I would use them.
Just disposing of them is an issue that we were not aware off.
If you are creating a, low frequency, low current, one off device then
Viro Board works well.
If you are prototyping on a Breadboard then the Breadboard format PCB's
from AdaFruit are great.
If you need to run off a batch or intend to go into production, then a PCB
service is a must.
Personally I think home etching is a thing of the past
2011\12\31@201955
by
IVP
>I use a Dremel drill press to drill the holes
Carl, must admit I don't like a press as much as hand-held for
very smaller diameter bits, especially the composite ones which
tend to be brittle. I hold the drill with the right hand and use the
left hand index finger as a feedback to gauge the pressure and
as a stabiliser. For 2mm and above I'm OK with a press though
Eric, here's a board I finished yesterday
http://home.clear.net.nz/pages/joecolquitt/4bit_sm.jpg
Overall it would have taken less time than trying to fudge about
with irregular components (eg SMT parts inc. SD card socket)
on 0.1" board. And it's tidy and robust enough to last for many
months of development. One additional benefit is that, because
of the shift towards cheaper SMT packages, the ability to make
and drill your own is now more often cost effective than it used
to be (at the prototype/short run stage)
Jo
2011\12\31@211634
by
John Ferrell
|
On 12/31/2011 8:19 PM, Chris Roper wrote:
> It all depends on your experience level and the reason to create a PCB.
>
> I used to etch my own boards, many years ago, but the chemicals I
> used back then are considered a NO NO now, even if I could find them I
> doubt I would use them.
> Just disposing of them is an issue that we were not aware off.
>
> If you are creating a, low frequency, low current, one off device then
> Viro Board works well.
>
> If you are prototyping on a Breadboard then the Breadboard format PCB's
> from AdaFruit are great.
>
> If you need to run off a batch or intend to go into production, then a PCB
> service is a must.
>
> Personally I think home etching is a thing of the past.
You will change your mind if you visit
tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs/
and search YouTube for Printed circuit boards. I am short on experience on the current resources but it appears to me that custom parts and prototypes are easier than ever. Jinx just answered a question I had about drilling and I hope to try the toner transfer method this week. There seem to be a lot of safe etchants available as well. Other than using some of the readily free software I plan to hand draw a board at 2X size, scan and reduce it to the proper scale and complete it. My laser printer (less than $100) will print 4x6 and may be 3X5 paper so small stuff will be practical.
The expert services like ExpressPCB do a very professional job should I need a production run. Things have never been this good for HomeBrewing before!
-- John Ferrell W8CCW
"The man who complains about the way the
ball bounces is likely to be the one who dropped it."
2011\12\31@222913
by
IVP
> using some of the readily free software I plan to hand draw a
> board at 2X size, scan and reduce it to the proper scale and
> complete it
I've two methods -
(1) tiff output from Eagle
(2) .gif or .bmp output from a graphics program (eg Paint Shop Pro)
like at the bottom of this page, and always re-sized/re-scaled to 600dpi
with the dimensions included to remind me when I use it again
http://www.piclist.com/techref/microchip/io/dev/lcd/DOGM.htm
After doing so many I can copy/paste between library boards without
needing to use Eagle, even for routing
> My laser printer (less than $100) will print 4x6 and may be 3X5 paper
> so small stuff will be practical
Printers are regularly on special as loss leaders. The Canon LBP6000
was on special here for NZ$49 and I bought it specifically for toner
transfer. No intention of wasting it on documents. My paper is glossy
clay-based. 30 minutes in a warm soak and it peels off easily
> The expert services like ExpressPCB do a very professional job
> should I need a production run. Things have never been this good
> for HomeBrewing before!
Of course I use professionals for clients, if that's what they want, or
quantities where it simply makes sense (and I appreciate the varied
opinions about what makes sense). Most often I deal with prototypes
and I want a board right now. And I'll be honest, there is a satisfaction
to doing it yourself, and the week isn't so full that a spare hour or two
can't be found
Jo
2011\12\31@223011
by
Carl Denk
|
Everyone has their own preferences, and I respect that. One needs to try different things within the range of supplies and equipment available, then settle on their favorite. My Dremel press is an older (ancient) model. I like the feed with turning a thumb knob. Also the table allows easy sliding with 1 hand for accurate location. But I must admit, my PCB's are small, generally less than 4" square, but then again, it wouldn't be hard to make the Dremel table larger. Just a quick 1/4 turn back an forth. The newer models feed with a lever which would be tiresome drilling a zillion holes. I also have a Delta floor drill press with 5/8" chuck. It is definitely to big and clumsy for PCB work, even with a small chuck that chucks in the big chuck :)
On 12/31/2011 8:19 PM, IVP wrote:
{Quote hidden}>> I use a Dremel drill press to drill the holes
>>
> Carl, must admit I don't like a press as much as hand-held for
> very smaller diameter bits, especially the composite ones which
> tend to be brittle. I hold the drill with the right hand and use the
> left hand index finger as a feedback to gauge the pressure and
> as a stabiliser. For 2mm and above I'm OK with a press though
>
> Eric, here's a board I finished yesterday
>
>
http://home.clear.net.nz/pages/joecolquitt/4bit_sm.jpg
>
> Overall it would have taken less time than trying to fudge about
> with irregular components (eg SMT parts inc. SD card socket)
> on 0.1" board. And it's tidy and robust enough to last for many
> months of development. One additional benefit is that, because
> of the shift towards cheaper SMT packages, the ability to make
> and drill your own is now more often cost effective than it used
> to be (at the prototype/short run stage)
>
> Joe
>
2011\12\31@230154
by
IVP
> I also have a Delta floor drill press with 5/8" chuck. It is
> definitely to big and clumsy for PCB work, even with a
> small chuck that chucks in the big chuck :)
Ha ! ;-) I've got a set-up like that. One of the better features
of inexpensive drills with pretty good chucks and gearboxes
is that when the cheap as s*** battery dies you've still got a
pretty good chuck and gearbox left. And at the price who
would feel any remorse cannibalising a chuck that can take a
very small bit and fits in a bench press
At one time I collected a pile of thrown-out battery drills and
re-jigged the motors and gearboxes as curtain pullers. Tough
little things and they work marvellously. On the to-do list for
them are as solar panel trackers and a large semi-mechanical
clock
Jo
'[EE] Copper clad perfboard?'
2012\01\01@040046
by
Electron
|
At 02.19 2012.01.01, you wrote:
>>I use a Dremel drill press to drill the holes
>
>Carl, must admit I don't like a press as much as hand-held for
>very smaller diameter bits, especially the composite ones which
>tend to be brittle. I hold the drill with the right hand and use the
>left hand index finger as a feedback to gauge the pressure and
>as a stabiliser. For 2mm and above I'm OK with a press though
>
>Eric, here's a board I finished yesterday
>
>http://home.clear.net.nz/pages/joecolquitt/4bit_sm.jpg
Is it a PIC32MX120F? :-)
Hey, I too use the pins and then connect wires.. Your board at first
looked like MINE! Very minor details of difference, but if not twins
they would look like brothers. :-)
The pins I use are Harwin pins originally though for prototyping vias.
Are You doing 4bit SDcard access? 8-) Could You tell us more?
Cheers,
MarI/O
>
>Overall it would have taken less time than trying to fudge about
>with irregular components (eg SMT parts inc. SD card socket)
>on 0.1" board. And it's tidy and robust enough to last for many
>months of development. One additional benefit is that, because
>of the shift towards cheaper SMT packages, the ability to make
>and drill your own is now more often cost effective than it used
>to be (at the prototype/short run stage)
>
>Joe
>
2012\01\01@055428
by
IVP
>>home.clear.net.nz/pages/joecolquitt/4bit_sm.jpg
>
> Is it a PIC32MX120F? :-)
dsPIC
> The pins I use are Harwin pins originally though for prototyping vias
Nah. I'm cheap - component lead cut-offs. I'll use proper SIL pins
if it's something pluggable
> Are You doing 4bit SDcard access?
Having a go. Analysis of proprietary 4-bit devices to try to back-
engineer the CMD and data structure looks promising. SPI transfers
at high speed are practical only up to a point because the card takes
longer to respond to the read command than it does to transfer the
sector requested, ie > 50% of the PIC's time is spent waiting for
data. The sector transfer can be very fast (10s of MHz) but there's
nothing that can be done about the response time in SPI mode
Giving the topic diversion some legitimacy, you would not be able to
experiment with large PICs which are in QFN or TQFP packages if
perf board was your only mounting option
Jo
2012\01\01@085155
by
Eric Kort
> Giving the topic diversion some legitimacy, you would not be able to
> experiment with large PICs which are in QFN or TQFP packages if
> perf board was your only mounting option
>
Right. I would have thought that the shift from through hole to
surface mount would lead to a resurgence of DIY pcbs, not their death,
but who am I to say? Regardless, I am often a "late abandoner" (as
opposed to an early adopter).
Nevertheless, after the extensive discussion here I am inclined to
utilize one of the many permutations of perfboard mentioned earlier
for simpler prototypes. I think I may still etch and drill my own
PCBs for more extensive prototypes, if only so that when my children
are older I can say things like "When I was younger, we used to etch
our own PCBs! And the components had wires sticking out of them that
we stuck through HOLES!"
Thanks to all for an interesting discussion.
-Eri
2012\01\01@085157
by
Carl Denk
No, the original, foreign made chuck died after a couple of years, and I replaced it with a Jacobs industrial quality chuck that only accommodates 1/8" - 5/8" drill bits. Part of the same order was a 1/4" maximum bit size chuck with a 1/4" hex shank, since I knew wanting to drill less than an 1/8" was likely. My drill arsenal also includes industrial quality: 12 volt NiCad battery, 3/8" and 1/2" corded variable speed reversing, a rotohammer, and the Dremel. :) I buy only industrial quality tools, since at least occasionally, I torture with heavy duty use, since only rarely do I need to rely on others for service/repair or construction.
> is that when the cheap as s*** battery dies you've still got a
> pretty good chuck and gearbox left. And at the price who
> would feel any remorse cannibalising a chuck that can take a
> very small bit and fits in a bench press
>
2012\01\01@091022
by
alan.b.pearce
> Right. I would have thought that the shift from through hole to
> surface mount would lead to a resurgence of DIY pcbs, not their death,
> but who am I to say? Regardless, I am often a "late abandoner" (as
> opposed to an early adopter).
The big problem is that so much SMD stuff is too fine a pitch for handmade PCBs. Realistically 0.5mm pitch would be the finest that one could reliably etch for, but a lot of interesting stuff comes in finer pitch, BGA or one of the many leadless packages which have their own requirements.
-- Scanned by iCritical.
2012\01\01@100242
by
Mark Hanchey
On 1/1/2012 8:51 AM, Eric Kort wrote:
> Right. I would have thought that the shift from through hole to
> surface mount would lead to a resurgence of DIY pcbs, not their death,
> but who am I to say? Regardless, I am often a "late abandoner" (as
> opposed to an early adopter).
I have tried the toner transfer method and found it lacking and the cost for making a one off board is way too high using the photo method or sending out to have the board made. My problem was finding good quality protoboards that were not too expensive. I recently found some great ones by a company called usa circuits. The boards are 5 x 3.4 , have all plated through holes, and are on a very stiff fiberglass material. Since using these I haven't wanted to make a printed board. The cost is about $4 a board if you buy them 5 at a time, $4.50 each otherwise. Well worth it for the quality you get.
http://usacircuits.com/c/21/protoyping-pcb
Mark
2012\01\01@174605
by
IVP
> The big problem is that so much SMD stuff is too fine a pitch for
> handmade PCBs. Realistically 0.5mm pitch would be the finest
> that one could reliably etch for, but a lot of interesting stuff comes in
> finer pitch, BGA or one of the many leadless packages which have
> their own requirements
I'd go along with that. A particular 3-axis gyro chip looked very
attractive functionally but is available only in a 3x3mm 16-pin QFN
Once upon a time it was difficult to buy ones and twos. Now you
can buy anything anywhere but it's difficult to use, if not impossible,
without specialist assembly
Aaaaargh
2012\01\01@230941
by
Sean Breheny
Hi Chris,
Which chemicals are you talking about? The only two common ones I know
of are Ferric Chloride and Ammonium Persulfate. Neither are any more
toxic than common household chemicals as far as I know. Ferric
Chloride is generally considered nasty because of its ability to stain
things permanently, but as long as you dilute it sufficiently, it
should be disposable in a municipal sewer system - indeed, it is
sometimes used in wastewater treatment I think. I am less familiar
with Ammonium Persulfate but I doubt that it is any worse.
Sean
On Sat, Dec 31, 2011 at 8:19 PM, Chris Roper <caroper
spamgmail.com> wrote:
{Quote hidden}> It all depends on your experience level and the reason to create a PCB.
>
> I used to etch my own boards, many years ago, but the chemicals I
> used back then are considered a NO NO now, even if I could find them I
> doubt I would use them.
> Just disposing of them is an issue that we were not aware off.
>
> If you are creating a, low frequency, low current, one off device then
> Viro Board works well.
>
> If you are prototyping on a Breadboard then the Breadboard format PCB's
> from AdaFruit are great.
>
> If you need to run off a batch or intend to go into production, then a PCB
> service is a must.
>
> Personally I think home etching is a thing of the past.
>
2012\01\02@071642
by
Chris Roper
|
I primarily used Ferric Chloride and you are correct, if handled properly,
it is not too bad. But we have all kinds of local bylaws now about
disposing of it and as I live in a Flat I don't really have the space to
store and mess with chemicals.
On the other hand, professionally made PCB's are a lot more affordable
these days, not cheep, but if it is for a final project, especially if you
need to make more than one unit, possibly to help defray the cost, PCB
services can do it well and reasonably fast even down to very fine pitch
and include through hole plating and silk screening that
are virtually impossible with home etched boards.
Cheers
Chris
On 2 January 2012 06:09, Sean Breheny <RemoveMEshb7spamBeGone
RemoveMEcornell.edu> wrote:
{Quote hidden}> Hi Chris,
>
> Which chemicals are you talking about? The only two common ones I know
> of are Ferric Chloride and Ammonium Persulfate. Neither are any more
> toxic than common household chemicals as far as I know. Ferric
> Chloride is generally considered nasty because of its ability to stain
> things permanently, but as long as you dilute it sufficiently, it
> should be disposable in a municipal sewer system - indeed, it is
> sometimes used in wastewater treatment I think. I am less familiar
> with Ammonium Persulfate but I doubt that it is any worse.
>
> Sean
>
2012\01\02@194901
by
Al Shinn
About etching pcbs- I recently enjoyed etching with hardware store muriatic acid and drugstore hydrogen peroxide. when you are done with the solution, neutralize the acid and precipitate the copper with baking soda. Trash the solids and down the drain with the now harmless water. I was using the laser printer on toner transfer paper
http://www.pulsarprofx.com/pcbfx/main_site/pages/products/transfer_paper.html
-- I had not much good luck with glossy magazine paper method
The etchant: "Mix two parts hydrogen peroxide for every one part hydrochloric acid. When mixed, they form a substance that is a severe skin irritant, and will produce toxic chlorine gas."
http://www.wikihow.com/Etch-a-Circuit-Board
--
Looking forward,
Al Shinn
2012\01\02@202156
by
smplx
|
On Mon, 2 Jan 2012, Al Shinn wrote:
{Quote hidden}> About etching pcbs- I recently enjoyed etching with hardware store
> muriatic acid and drugstore hydrogen peroxide. when you are done with
> the solution, neutralize the acid and precipitate the copper with baking
> soda. Trash the solids and down the drain with the now harmless water. I
> was using the laser printer on toner transfer paper
>
>
http://www.pulsarprofx.com/pcbfx/main_site/pages/products/transfer_paper.html
>
> -- I had not much good luck with glossy magazine paper method
>
> The etchant: "Mix two parts hydrogen peroxide for every one part
> hydrochloric acid. When mixed, they form a substance that is a severe
> skin irritant, and will produce toxic chlorine gas."
>
>
http://www.wikihow.com/Etch-a-Circuit-Board
Not wishing to be a kill-joy here BUT...
"two parts hydrogen peroxide for every one part hydrochloric acid"
Doesn't really tell me a lot. What are the concentrations of these liquids before you mix them?
Also, mixing "baking soda" with copper chloride (the result of etching copper metal with HCL and H2O2) does ***NOT*** result in pure water + solids, there will be some copper ions left in solution. You really shouldn't just flush this down the drain as a mater of course.
Regards
Sergio Masc
2012\01\02@212540
by
Denny Esterline
|
On Mon, Jan 2, 2012 at 6:24 PM, smplx <KILLspamsmplxspamBeGone
allotrope.net> wrote:
{Quote hidden}>
>
> On Mon, 2 Jan 2012, Al Shinn wrote:
>
> > About etching pcbs- I recently enjoyed etching with hardware store
> > muriatic acid and drugstore hydrogen peroxide. when you are done with
> > the solution, neutralize the acid and precipitate the copper with baking
> > soda. Trash the solids and down the drain with the now harmless water. I
> > was using the laser printer on toner transfer paper
> >
> >
> www.pulsarprofx.com/pcbfx/main_site/pages/products/transfer_paper.html
> >
> > -- I had not much good luck with glossy magazine paper method
> >
> > The etchant: "Mix two parts hydrogen peroxide for every one part
> > hydrochloric acid. When mixed, they form a substance that is a severe
> > skin irritant, and will produce toxic chlorine gas."
> >
> >
http://www.wikihow.com/Etch-a-Circuit-Board
>
> Not wishing to be a kill-joy here BUT...
>
> "two parts hydrogen peroxide for every one part hydrochloric acid"
>
> Doesn't really tell me a lot. What are the concentrations of these liquids
> before you mix them?
>
> Also, mixing "baking soda" with copper chloride (the result of etching
> copper metal with HCL and H2O2) does ***NOT*** result in pure water +
> solids, there will be some copper ions left in solution. You really
> shouldn't just flush this down the drain as a mater of course.
>
> Regards
> Sergio Masci
No! No! No! Don't throw out this etchant, it's just getting getting good!
It's been a while since I've done any of this but...
--searching......
http://www.piclist.com/techref/postbot.asp?by=time&id=piclist%5C2004%5C09%5C12%5C173932a&author=Denny+Esterline+&tgt=post
(wow, 2004, time flies)
The point is that it's stuff you can buy locally. And
recycle effectively forever. The Hydrogen Peroxide is just the 3% medical
stuff you can get at the pharmacy or grocery store. And the acid is
available at most hardware stores and pool supplies, often called "muratic
acid", it's actual Hydrochloric acid and usually about 30-35%.
I still believe it's the best choice etchant, but I'm far less interested
in homebrew PCBs nowadays. Most of the time I just don't think the
time/value equation works out.
Good luck, please be responsible for your own safety.
-Denn
2012\01\03@135212
by
Al Shinn
|
Sergio,
I clearly stated "hardware store muriatic acid and drugstore hydrogen peroxide" Should I have added "full strength"?
There would be only the smallest traces of copper left after precipitating with baking soda. Copper is not like mercury or lead in that neither of them have a minimum daily requirement - copper does. We use copper pipes for our water, copper coated scrub thingeys, etc, etc. we used to use CuSO4 to kill roots in the sewer lines but that WAS tough on the sewage treatment plants.
If you wish to remove any final traces of copper, first test some of the suspect clear solution with a dollop of household ammonia, any significant copper will turn the resulting solution blue - if the test fails, electrolyze out the remaining copper or even just throw in some steel wool to scavenge the copper out.
What I should have mentioned is that you should not throw away the solution anyway cause "they" say it regenerates with exposure to air and can be used over and over. I don't do that much etching so I toss mine.
"
Not wishing to be a kill-joy here BUT...
"two parts hydrogen peroxide for every one part hydrochloric acid"
Doesn't really tell me a lot. What are the concentrations of these liquids
before you mix them?
Also, mixing "baking soda" with copper chloride (the result of etching
copper metal with HCL and H2O2) does ***NOT*** result in pure water +
solids, there will be some copper ions left in solution. You really
shouldn't just flush this down the drain as a mater of course.
Regards
Sergio Masci
"
--
Looking forward,
Al Shinn
2012\01\04@084923
by
smplx
|
On Tue, 3 Jan 2012, Al Shinn wrote:
> Sergio,
> I clearly stated "hardware store muriatic acid and drugstore hydrogen
> peroxide" Should I have added "full strength"?
Al,
"full strength" would have been as useful as "good dollop" :-)
When I first came across this cupric chloride etching system a few years ago, I was intrigued, so I decided to give it a try. I went out and bought some concrete cleaner from a local hardware store (couldn't find muriatic acid but I'd read that "muriatic acid" as supplied by a hardware store is mainly used to clean brickwork and concrete AND the concrete cleaner I found said it contained HCL). It's action on copper metal was very disapointing with and without the drugstore H2O2. I tried forcing the copper into solution by passing a current through it but this didn't help much. I tried other things like bubbling air into the mix (as some other recipes suggest).
So I resorted to using laboratory grade concentrated hydrochloric acid in place of the concrete cleaner. Yep this worked very well but this stuff is hard to get as a hobbyist.
Knowing a little bit about chemistry I was able to tell that the internet homebrew recipe wasn't working. I wonder how many other people have actually tried this and given up in frustration.
So, all in all, without knowing what concentrations are being used, some people might get lucky and it works, while others just give up not understanding what is going wrong.
> There would be only the smallest traces of copper left after
> precipitating with baking soda. Copper is not like mercury or lead in
> that neither of them have a minimum daily requirement - copper does. We
> use copper pipes for our water, copper coated scrub thingeys, etc, etc.
But these traces are much higher than if the water were just passing through a copper pipe.
> we used to use CuSO4 to kill roots in the sewer lines but that WAS tough
> on the sewage treatment plants.
We also used to use things like mercury and arsenic to treat things like syphilis but that was tough on the patients. We frown on using mercury and arsenic on people now just as we do on putting copper into sewers.
> If you wish to remove any final traces of copper, first test some of the
> suspect clear solution with a dollop of household ammonia, any
> significant copper will turn the resulting solution blue - if the test
> fails, electrolyze out the remaining copper or even just throw in some
> steel wool to scavenge the copper out.
The point isn't that I can remove traces of copper "if I wish to", it's that ***EVERYONE*** who does home etching should be strongly encouraged to.
> What I should have mentioned is that you should not throw away the
> solution anyway cause "they" say it regenerates with exposure to air and
> can be used over and over. I don't do that much etching so I toss mine.
>
Regards
Sergio Masc
2012\01\04@133703
by
Al Shinn
|
Sergio,
Egg on my face! I etched some copper with the H2O2 and muriatic acid and then precipitated out the copper with baking soda as I suggested. You were right, the remaining solution is too blue (has some copper left) for me to feel good about dumping down the drain, don't even need the ammonia test. I'll try the steel wool to scavenge the remaining Cu.
Looking forward,
Al Shinn
Looking forward,
Al Shinn
On 1/3/2012 10:52 AM, Al Shinn wrote:
{Quote hidden}> Sergio,
> I clearly stated "hardware store muriatic acid and drugstore hydrogen
> peroxide" Should I have added "full strength"?
> There would be only the smallest traces of copper left after
> precipitating with baking soda. Copper is not like mercury or lead in
> that neither of them have a minimum daily requirement - copper does. We
> use copper pipes for our water, copper coated scrub thingeys, etc, etc.
> we used to use CuSO4 to kill roots in the sewer lines but that WAS tough
> on the sewage treatment plants.
> If you wish to remove any final traces of copper, first test some of the
> suspect clear solution with a dollop of household ammonia, any
> significant copper will turn the resulting solution blue - if the test
> fails, electrolyze out the remaining copper or even just throw in some
> steel wool to scavenge the copper out.
> What I should have mentioned is that you should not throw away the
> solution anyway cause "they" say it regenerates with exposure to air and
> can be used over and over. I don't do that much etching so I toss mine.
>
> "
> Not wishing to be a kill-joy here BUT...
>
> "two parts hydrogen peroxide for every one part hydrochloric acid"
>
> Doesn't really tell me a lot. What are the concentrations of these liquids
> before you mix them?
>
> Also, mixing "baking soda" with copper chloride (the result of etching
> copper metal with HCL and H2O2) does ***NOT*** result in pure water +
> solids, there will be some copper ions left in solution. You really
> shouldn't just flush this down the drain as a mater of course.
>
> Regards
> Sergio Masci
>
2012\01\04@150812
by
smplx
On Wed, 4 Jan 2012, Al Shinn wrote:
{Quote hidden}> Sergio,
> Egg on my face! I etched some copper with the H2O2 and muriatic acid and
> then precipitated out the copper with baking soda as I suggested. You
> were right, the remaining solution is too blue (has some copper left)
> for me to feel good about dumping down the drain, don't even need the
> ammonia test. I'll try the steel wool to scavenge the remaining Cu.
>
>
>
> Looking forward,
> Al Shinn
Hi Al,
Might I suggest that you simply let the neutralised solution evaporate to leave just solid then dispose of all the solid together (possibly together with other metal that is to be recycled).
Regards
Sergio Masci
2012\01\05@234206
by
Al Shinn
|
Sergio,
Thanks,
And thanks again for "making" me do the experiment to prove myself wrong about simple dropping out the copper with bicarb - don't want to spread false info.
but I have found the trick to get the last tiny bit of copper out of solution. The Baking soda neutralized solution has all but a trace of the copper precipitated out of it but there is still a faint blue tint. A bit of fine steel wool dropped into this solution removes this last trace of copper to the point that even ammonia won't make it turn blue (this is a pretty sensitive test for copper).
By the way, muriatic acid is an entity that is bought at the hardware store, so needs no concentration figures. BUT, my bottle does say 20 degree Baume (whatever that means) also says (31.45%)
I CAN attest that the 2 parts drugstore H2O2 to 1 part hardware store muriatic acid makes a fine pc board etchant - I used a fine brush to "agitate" the etching and it took around 5 minutes.
One beauty of this system is that the H2O2 is less than $1.00 and my muriatic acid label says $2.99 (1 quart) (bought within the last couple of years)
I would NOT guess that concrete cleaner would necessarily be the same stuff even though muriatic acid IS used for that purpose.
Evaporating to dryness is fine if you don't have much solution, and live in a low humidity place, and are patient, and have the spare space where it won't be disturbed by wives or animals (I have both - well, only one of each). At least it does not have acid fumes after neutralizing so the evaporation can be done inside.
"
Hi Al,
Might I suggest that you simply let the neutralized solution evaporate to leave just solid then dispose of all the solid together (possibly together with other metal that is to be recycled).
Regards
Sergio Masci
"
--
Looking forward,
Al Shinn
2012\01\06@024453
by
William \Chops\ Westfield
On Jan 3, 2012, at 10:52 AM, Al Shinn wrote:
> I clearly stated "... drugstore hydrogen peroxide"
Muriatic acid is almost always full strength (about 32%), but hydrogen peroxide is available in several concentrations. Normal medicinal H2O2 is 3% (which is what you want), but 6% is pretty common for hair bleaching, and you can get somewhat stronger than that if you have a well-equipped "drug store."
ObJoke: Two chemists go into a bar. The first says "I'll have an H2O." The second says "I'll have an H2O too." They get and consume their drinks, and the second chemist dies!
Note that the minimum price for a professionally manufactured PCB has gone down to about $20. (That gets you 10, identical 50mm square boards from China (Seeed or iTead Studios), or 3 boards of about that size from DorkbotPBX or similar services in the US ($5/in^2) That includes postage. Gratification isn't so instant as etching your own, but ... at prices like that it's difficult to justify messing around at home. And you get two sides, Plated-through holes, soldermask and silkscreen, and routed to shape.
For large, simple, PCBs, home etching may still make sense. As board size goes up, your options dwindle, per-in^2 deals get expensive, and you don't get any cost savings for simplicity.
BillW
2012\01\06@032305
by
KPL
|
I have never ever needed more than 2 or 3 of same boards yet. This is
not a business, but a hobby.
So producing a single pcb costs probably few $, and gets you further
in an hour, instead of waiting for weeks. Any reasonably priced
shipping takes usually about 3 weeks from china/hk to here.
So basically it depends on many factors.
>
> Note that the minimum price for a professionally manufactured PCB has gone down to about $20. (That gets you 10, identical 50mm square boards from China (Seeed or iTead Studios), or 3 boards of about that size from DorkbotPBX or similar services in the US ($5/in^2) That includes postage. Gratification isn't so instant as etching your own, but ... at prices like that it's difficult to justify messing around at home. And you get two sides, Plated-through holes, soldermask and silkscreen, and routed to shape.
>
> For large, simple, PCBs, home etching may still make sense. As board size goes up, your options dwindle, per-in^2 deals get expensive, and you don't get any cost savings for simplicity.
>
> BillW
-- KPL
2012\01\06@035149
by
William \Chops\ Westfield
On Jan 6, 2012, at 12:23 AM, KPL wrote:
> So producing a single pcb costs probably few $, and gets you further
> in an hour, instead of waiting for weeks.
Yes. Except for the first board, which typically involves $20 in startup costs (etchant, or etchant chemicals, bare PCB material, laser printer :-), maybe special paper, Drillbits and maybe a drill, solvents and scrubbies, sharpies for touch-up, some sort of cutting tool, etc, etc.)
Most homebrew boards will take more than an hour, all things considered.
But less than a day.
DorkbotPBX isn't based in China, though you're probably still looking at three weeks turnaround once everything is considered. My order there went in on the 12th and showed up on the 30th, IIRC.
BillW
2012\01\06@040648
by
KPL
|
>> So producing a single pcb costs probably few $, and gets you further
>> in an hour, instead of waiting for weeks.
>
> Yes. Except for the first board, which typically involves $20 in startup costs (etchant, or etchant chemicals, bare PCB material, laser printer :-), maybe special paper, Drillbits and maybe a drill, solvents and scrubbies, sharpies for touch-up, some sort of cutting tool, etc, etc.)
>
Yes, of course. But most home tinkerers have most of those tools anyway.
For those starting this hobby now, it's probably a different story.
> Most homebrew boards will take more than an hour, all things considered.
> But less than a day.
Quite probably design time is less, since you do not have to check if
holes are correctly defined, or other things that are crucial for
professionally made pcb's.
For homemade board it's probably 10 minutes before etching, about 20
minutes etching (I'm using FeCl), after that it's just cleaning and
drilling, which does not take a lot for my simple boards.
I'm currently using some cheap toner transfer paper from china,
ordered on ebay. Seems like just a paper with some kind of
polyethylene coating, it's working quite ok.
Tried similar paper from building stuff, but that coating has much
lower melting point.
> DorkbotPBX isn't based in China, though you're probably still looking at three weeks turnaround once everything is considered. My order there went in on the 12th and showed up on the 30th, IIRC.
>
> BillW
I'm in eastern Europe, so everything outside EU is considered far away:)
Unfortunately, everything inside EU is considered expensive.
-- KPL
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