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'UV erasable...'
1999\08\10@184806 by Geoff Greenleaf

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I'm assuming this is a very simple question...

What do I need to erase the memory of a windowed device?

By that I mean, can we just put it out in the sun for a little while?
Is a UV lamp sufficient?  Can someone give me the basics of how it
works?

Also... how would I be able to tell that it is completely erased?

Thanks...

-Geoff

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1999\08\11@014614 by Xinhua Rong

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>What do I need to erase the memory of a windowed device?
UV, of course. :-)
>By that I mean, can we just put it out in the sun for a little while?

Yes, maybe you can erase your chip in the sun, but it may take about
several months. The UV in sunlight is much weaker than that from a UV
lamp, so it takes much longer to erase your chip. (In effect, this
method is not applicable at all)
>Also... how would I be able to tell that it is completely erased?
You can read it. If all the values are 0xFF (typically), it will be
certain that it is completely erased. In the software for my
programmer there is a function called Blank Check, I usually use this
function to check whether I have completely erased my chip or not.


Xinhua Rong, BG6CR
Dept. of CS
Univ. of Science and Technology of China

1999\08\11@042927 by Mark Willis

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With a Datarase II running $40ish, I'd just suggest you get one of those
if in a hurry, or if you have less money & more time to spend, build
your own with the right UV lamp.  (If you're in the Kent, WA area, I
have a Datarase II sitting here ready for use <G>)

 Mark

Geoff Greenleaf wrote:
{Quote hidden}

1999\08\14@033601 by J.Adams

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I've tried to go the cheap route myself on this building one
with an old battery powered Flourecent lamp and went and bought
a 'purple' UV bulb. Waste of time. Not the correct type of bulb.
Just spend the $50 and get the timered DataraseII and save
a few hours of heartache.  Check out your local electronics
store or Digikey.  This will allow you to erase your chip in
a few minutes.  If you want to find out the principles behind
this you may want to check out Intel's site as I believe they
were the inventors of this type of mem.

John Adams

At 03:46 PM 8/10/99 -0700, you wrote:
{Quote hidden}

John Adams -- spam_OUTElectronicsTakeThisOuTspamPobox.com
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http://www.basicelectronics.com/

"Basic information for beginners
to electronics."

1999\08\14@091900 by admins

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I use a 6" germicidal UV fluorescent light .  It is made of quartz and
is clear.  I got it for $6 at the lighting store.  I put it into a small
battery operated fluorescent holder and it does fine.  I having been
using this technique since the days of the 1702a eprom.  I have seen
some fluorescent fingernail polish dryers in the drugstores, they have a
timer and a place to put your fingers.  I think they would make an
excellent gang eraser, put antistatic foam on the bottom (CRITICAL), and
a stop at the back to know how far to shove the parts in so the windows
are exactly under the lamp (put in enough foam to get the parts right up
to the quartz). And, as the commercial for one of the cartoon movies
said, "Don't look into the light!...." To determine the timing an old
trick is to write to the device in programming mode filling all
locations, then start the erase, begin reading the locations until the
first one goes clean.  Continue erasing and reading until all locations
are clean.  The difference between the two times will give you the
'sensitivity spectrum' of the device.  Take the last time and multiply
times 10 and use that for the minimum erase time.  I normally pop my
stuff in and let it 'cook' until I need the parts.  If you use a 110
device you could put a radio shack timer in series that would have the
device on for 45/hour or 3 out of 4 hours --- the goal to keep from
burning the house down.  The cheap devices usual don't have a starter so
you have to push and hold to get the lights on, if the ac goes off, when
it comes back on the lights will not re-activate.

Hope this helps,
joe

PS Yes the sun will erase/make flaky some of the locations but it takes
a long time.  ALso, clean the UV port on the parts with 95% isopropyl
alcohol and don't touch the spot.  Finger grease interferes with the
erase.

"J.Adams" wrote:
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1999\08\14@094435 by paulb

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Joe & Gladys Koontz wrote:

> The cheap devices usual don't have a starter so you have to push and
> hold to get the lights on, if the ac goes off, when it comes back on
> the lights will not re-activate.

 However in 240V countries, these small lights often *do* start
themselves if power is applied.
--
 Cheers,
       Paul B.

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