Post by thread:UV Erasers

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'UV Erasers'
1997\05\02@092428 by Ed Todd

I am looking for a new UV eraser. I want to be able to quickly erase a good number of 16C63's. What do I look for, what technical terms, type of light/bulb and so on? <spam_OUTedtoddTakeThisOuTsni.net> Ed Todd

1997\05\02@110116 by Daniel Nyberg

>I am looking for a new UV eraser. I want to be able to quickly erase a >good number of 16C63's. What do I look for, what technical terms, type of >light/bulb and so on? > <.....edtoddKILLspam@spam@sni.net> Ed Todd If you would quickly erase a chip, there is an eraser called Flash Eraser II, manufactured by Bron. It erases a chip in 15 seconds. But only ONE chip at the time. Daniel Nyberg

1997\05\02@160313 by Mike Smith

> From: Daniel Nyberg <md87danyKILLspamTIMRA.SE> > To: .....PICLISTKILLspam.....MITVMA.MIT.EDU > Subject: Re: UV Erasers > Date: Saturday, 3 May 1997 00:19 > > If you would quickly erase a chip, there is an eraser called Flash Eraser II, > manufactured by Bron. > > It erases a chip in 15 seconds. But only ONE chip at the time. > What does it use as a UV source? A xenon arc lamp? MikeS <EraseMEmikesmith_ozspam_OUTTakeThisOuTrelaymail.net>

1997\05\03@024210 by Alan King

<HTML><BODY> <BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE>>  > It erases a chip in 15 seconds. But only ONE chip at the time.  >  </BLOCKQUOTE>   I only have the 16c56jw parts to go by, but my eraser cleans them up in 30 secs or so..  Is my eraser just a good one or are some of the other eprom parts just that much harder to erase?  Everybody talks of 10+ minutes which is what I'm used to from large eproms on other erasers but I haven't done much besides the 56 for comparison. </BODY> </HTML>

1997\05\03@140830 by Gerhard Fiedler

At 02:45 03/05/97 -0400, Alan King wrote: ><HTML><BODY> > ><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE>>  Anybody knows a good email client which understands basic HTML?

1997\05\03@155708 by Andy Kunz

>Anybody knows a good email client which understands basic HTML? Good, no, but I think both Netscape and Explorer's mail functions do. Andy ================================================================== Andy Kunz - Montana Design - 409 S 6th St - Phillipsburg, NJ 08865 Hardware & Software for Industry & R/C Hobbies "Go fast, turn right, and keep the wet side down!" ==================================================================

1997\05\03@175535 by Alan King

Gerhard Fiedler wrote: > > At 02:45 03/05/97 -0400, Alan King wrote: > ><HTML><BODY> > > > ><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE>>  > > Anybody knows a good email client which understands basic HTML? Sorry, I had specifically checked the 'send as plain text' box but there was a different global 'default to html' option still on that overrode the plain text. If you have Win95, try the Netscape Communicator Beta 3. It is much more solid than I expected of a beta version, and the composer is the only WYSIWYG html editor I have ever used that works reasonably well. Not perfect but pretty good.. Now maybe I can really get around to putting up a pic page at my site! Alan

1997\05\03@212006 by Andrew Warren

Ed Todd <PICLISTspam_OUTMITVMA.MIT.EDU> wrote: > I am looking for a new UV eraser. I want to be able to quickly > erase a good number of 16C63's. What do I look for, what technical > terms, type of light/bulb and so on? Ed: I assume that you're looking for a "professional" eraser, not something like the Datarase-II. If so, you should look for one that places your chips face-up in a sliding drawer. The case should be heavy enough, and/or the drawer should slide smoothly enough, that you can open and close it with one hand. The drawer should seal tightly enough to keep UV from leaking out, and there should be an indicator (usually, it's a clear window coated with UV-flourescent paint) that shows that the bulb is on. There should, of course, be a safety interlock that turns off the bulb whenever the drawer's open. The drawer should be lined with conductive foam; if it's not, make sure that there's enough room for you to put your own foam in there. Bulbs must be replaceable, and you should buy an extra bulb when you buy the eraser. A timer is essential; ideally, it'll be a mechanical windup thing, not an electronic one that you have to set with a tiny screwdriver. Personally, I like Spectroline's erasers; they're a little expensive, but worth it. -Andy === Andrew Warren - @spam@fastfwdKILLspamix.netcom.com === Fast Forward Engineering, Vista, California === http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/2499

1997\05\03@224002 by Peer Ouwehand

At 15:07 96/05/03 +0000, you wrote: >At 02:45 03/05/97 -0400, Alan King wrote: >><HTML><BODY> >> >><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE>>  > >Anybody knows a good email client which understands basic HTML? > > Mmmm.. anyone know about an email prog that doesn't stuff all that HTML code in to start with... ;) One could try Eudora Light... Nice prog, and free too... (oops, postcardware....) Peer

1997\05\03@225912 by Jim Robertson

At 02:45 AM 5/3/97 -0400, you wrote: ><HTML><BODY> > ><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE>>  > > It erases a chip in 15 seconds. But only ONE chip at the > time.  > >  ></BLOCKQUOTE> >  I only have the 16c56jw parts to go by, but my eraser cleans them >up in 30 secs or so..  Is my eraser just a good one or are some of >the other eprom parts just that much harder to erase?  Everybody talks >of 10+ minutes which is what I'm used to from large eproms on other erasers >but I haven't done much besides the 56 for comparison. > > > ></BODY> ></HTML> > > Don't worry, I can read HTML. I do it by standing on my head and squinting my eyes. :~) Anyway, the 16C5x parts do erase very quickly. Not so the 16Cxx parts that have a much tighter die. There is nothing special about your eraser, well, not unless your very sentimental about it. Jim

1997\05\03@233213 by deweerd

Ed Todd wrote: > > I am looking for a new UV eraser. I want to be able to quickly erase a > good number of 16C63's. What do I look for, what technical terms, type of > light/bulb and so on? > <KILLspamedtoddKILLspamsni.net> Ed Todd I have a couple of erasers from Digi-Key (Data-Erase, or sumthing). But the BEST eraser is this UV mineral Lamp. Probably not on the list of safest toys for you kids, because the UV lamps are plainly visible when it is on, but it is huge, will erase anything in less than two minutes, and would probably be capable of erasing about 50 '63s at a time!

1997\05\05@001211 by Gerhard Fiedler

At 17:59 03/05/97 -0400, Alan King wrote: > Sorry, I had specifically checked the 'send as plain text' box but >there was a different global 'default to html' option still on that >overrode the plain text. No problem, I _can_ read it :-) but as it happens once in a while (and maybe more so in the future), I was wondering how one gets prepared for this type of messages. >If you have Win95, try the Netscape Communicator Beta 3. Or Andy: >Good, no, but I think both Netscape and Explorer's mail functions do. "Good, no": that's it -- I would not want to go with either of these program's "mail functions" just for them being able to display HTML.

'UV Erasers'
1998\03\03@180610 by SHAWN ELLIS

Hey, anybody recomend a good UV eraser? Only needs to hold a couple of PICs at a time (40-pin), but I'd like the fastest one I can get! Thanks,

1998\03\03@192917 by Andrew Warren

SHAWN ELLIS <RemoveMEPICLISTTakeThisOuTMITVMA.MIT.EDU> wrote: > Hey, anybody recomend a good UV eraser? > > Only needs to hold a couple of PICs at a time (40-pin), but I'd like > the fastest one I can get! Shawn: Datarase-II, available from Digi-Key (1 800 DIGI-KEY) and others for around $40. Get the one with the built-in timer. -Andy === Andrew Warren - spamBeGonefastfwdspamBeGoneix.netcom.com === Fast Forward Engineering - Vista, California === http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/2499

1998\03\23@145351 by eric

Yes, what is the final solution?? Now that I want to use a 12C508 and looking left and right, up and down for a UV eraser! I checked around and found that Sylvania makes a 18" tube (P/N F18/T12/350BL/700/PH with 202-BTCP ballast) which is also suitable for making PCBs at home. Anybody who can comment on this, please. Morgan Olsson Wrote: {Quote hidden}> << ANy thoughts on a UV eraser? > > It just struck my mind: *cheap*! (But does it work?) > Theese light tube starters, (not electrionic models): If I remember > correctly: in open state when powered they emit a little UV-radiation. > > Maybe possible to cut the Glass bulb out, place it on the PIC window and > power it from the mains thru a power resistor? (To much power will make the > switch close...!) > > ...Wait a minute... > There: I've built it: > 27k ohm 1W resistor worked O.K for "4-65W" igniter (230VAC mains) > > But does it give UV? > I tried to check using paper-money (what is the english word?), to see the > serial number glow, but either it is not UV, (or right kind UV), or > someone have cheated me... ;-} > > The visible part of light is orange-purple (not like discharge-type > indicator lamps) I wonder if the purple part extends to UV? Maybe elder > types radiated UV, but not modern (health improvements)?. > > I do not have any PIC to erase now, sorry. > > PS > Another crazy idea: The ends of regular light tubes (where the white powder > is not on the inside) radiates UV? (The white powder transforms the UV > from mercury gas dischargings to visible.) Radiation is probably low, and > difficilt to place PIC there, but anyway... > DS > > DS2 > Has anyone yet experimented with the hight electric field / high dv/dt > erasure method we discussed here earlier? > DS2 > > /Morgan > / Morgan Olsson, MORGANS REGLERTEKNIK, SE-277 35 KIVIK, Sweden \ > \ TakeThisOuTmrtEraseMEspam_OUTiname.com, ph: +46 (0)414 70741; fax +46 (0)414 70331 / >

1998\03\23@162828 by Leo van Loon

UV tubes suitable for erase purpose are not suitable for PCB production and vice-versa! For erasing use e.g. Philips TUV 15W (quartz, clear tube, most used as sterilisation lamp). For PCB Philips TL 15W05 (glass, white tube, most used in fly-cache lamps) Superbe link for PCB production: http://www.thinktink.com/ Leo van Loon SBB simpeltronics Netherlands tel +31 (0481) 450034 fax+31 (0481) 450051 mail RemoveMEsbb.simpeltronTakeThisOuTtip.nl url http://www.sbb-simpeltronics.nl SBB simpeltronics ontwikkelt technische projecten voor basisschool en basisvorming. SBB simpeltronics develops technical projects for children in primary and secondary education. -----Oorspronkelijk bericht----- Van: eric <ericchanEraseME.....MYNA.COM> Aan: EraseMEPICLISTMITVMA.MIT.EDU <RemoveMEPICLISTEraseMEEraseMEMITVMA.MIT.EDU> Datum: maandag 23 maart 1998 21:08 Onderwerp: Re: UV Erasers Yes, what is the final solution?? Now that I want to use a 12C508 and looking left and right, up and down for a UV eraser! I checked around and found that Sylvania makes a 18" tube (P/N F18/T12/350BL/700/PH with 202-BTCP ballast) which is also suitable for making PCBs at home. Anybody who can comment on this, please. Morgan Olsson Wrote: > << ANy thoughts on a UV eraser? > > It just struck my mind: *cheap*! (But does it work?) > Theese light tube starters, (not electrionic models): If I remember > correctly: in open state when powered they emit a little UV-radiation. > > Maybe possible to cut the Glass bulb out, place it on the PIC window and > power it from the mains thru a power resistor? (To much power will make the {Quote hidden}> switch close...!) > > ...Wait a minute... > There: I've built it: > 27k ohm 1W resistor worked O.K for "4-65W" igniter (230VAC mains) > > But does it give UV? > I tried to check using paper-money (what is the english word?), to see the > serial number glow, but either it is not UV, (or right kind UV), or > someone have cheated me... ;-} > > The visible part of light is orange-purple (not like discharge-type > indicator lamps) I wonder if the purple part extends to UV? Maybe elder > types radiated UV, but not modern (health improvements)?. > > I do not have any PIC to erase now, sorry. > > PS > Another crazy idea: The ends of regular light tubes (where the white powder {Quote hidden}> is not on the inside) radiates UV? (The white powder transforms the UV > from mercury gas dischargings to visible.) Radiation is probably low, and > difficilt to place PIC there, but anyway... > DS > > DS2 > Has anyone yet experimented with the hight electric field / high dv/dt > erasure method we discussed here earlier? > DS2 > > /Morgan > / Morgan Olsson, MORGANS REGLERTEKNIK, SE-277 35 KIVIK, Sweden \ > \ RemoveMEmrtspam_OUTKILLspaminame.com, ph: +46 (0)414 70741; fax +46 (0)414 70331 / >

'UV Erasers'
1999\02\06@150102 by Eric Oliver

Ok, now that I know I need to erase the PIC17s, I need a UV eraser. I thought I read here recently about a product called .. DataRase ? The person seemed to be happy with it but neither Jameco nor Digikey has it listed. Thanks, Eric

1999\02\06@163206 by Barry Cooper

At 01:45 PM 06/02/99 -0600, you wrote: >Ok, now that I know I need to erase the PIC17s, I need a UV eraser. I >thought I read here recently about a product called .. DataRase ? The >person seemed to be happy with it but neither Jameco nor Digikey has it >listed. > >Thanks, >Eric > Digikey does have them, In the Canadian catalog on page 187, 62.35 w/o timer, 77.95 with timer, ER2-ND without timer ER3-ND with. Barry

1999\02\07@232421 by Eric Oliver

Digikey does have them, In the Canadian catalog on page 187, 62.35 w/o timer, 77.95 with timer, ER2-ND without timer ER3-ND with. Slap !! Ok I'm awake now. Yes, you are right. I was looking right at it. Thanks. Eric

'UV erasers'
1999\04\20@013219 by Bill Sherwood

Hi everybody, I just subscribed and here is my first query... I have need for an UV eraser for windowed devices and wish to make my own. I read somewhere that the intense flash from xenon flashtubes has a high UV content. Does anyone know how many flashes at how many joules per flash are required to erase a windowed device/eprom? Is there any danger to the device if these are exceeded? Old camera flash assemblies are easily converted for lower power levels and faster strobe conditions and offer an easy solution if combined with a timer or counter to limit the flash number. This also takes the pain out of having to take my parts to work in order to erase them! Best regards to all, Bill

1999\04\20@124327 by Glen

Bill Sherwood wrote: > Hi everybody, > > I just subscribed and here is my first query... > > I have need for an UV eraser for windowed devices and wish to make my own. > I read somewhere that the intense flash from xenon flashtubes has a high UV > content. Does anyone know how many flashes at how many joules per flash are > required to erase a windowed device/eprom? Is there any danger to the > device if these are exceeded? > > Old camera flash assemblies are easily converted for lower power levels and > faster strobe conditions and offer an easy solution if combined with a timer > or counter to limit the flash number. This also takes the pain out of > having to take my parts to work in order to erase them! > > Best regards to all, > Bill ******************you probarbly have an old fluro light lying around. easier to go & buy a uv tube that fits it (like they use to make pcb negs.) regards glen

'UV erasers'
1999\05\03@135114 by John Payson

|I have need for an UV eraser for windowed devices and wish to make my own. |I read somewhere that the intense flash from xenon flashtubes has a high UV |content. Does anyone know how many flashes at how many joules per flash are |required to erase a windowed device/eprom? Is there any danger to the |device if these are exceeded? Bad things can happen to flash tubes if you put through too much energy (either per flash or cumulative). Most flash devices can handle much more energy per surge at slower cyclic rates than at higher ones. |Old camera flash assemblies are easily converted for lower power levels and |faster strobe conditions and offer an easy solution if combined with a timer |or counter to limit the flash number. This also takes the pain out of |having to take my parts to work in order to erase them! Most flash tubes are made of normal amorphic glass. As a result, little or none of the hard UV given off by the flash will escape. If you're taking pictures of people this is a good thing. If you are trying to erase chips it's a bad thing. Good mercury-based erasers can be produced cheaply and easily, and don't have the problems you'll run into with Xenon flashes. BTW, is it possible/practical/desirable to use mercury tubes as "flashes"? I know that on many series-ballast fixtures the light will flash when it first comes on and the flashes can be brighter than the normal light output. Could a device that used inductive kickback to repeatedly bash a flourescent tube produce a higher average light output than one that runs continously?

1999\05\03@141035 by Jeff Barlow

The Datarase II is only $39.95 at Digi-Key. It works fine. Why build your own. |I have need for an UV eraser for windowed devices and wish to make my own. |I read somewhere that the intense flash from xenon flashtubes has a high UV |content. Does anyone know how many flashes at how many joules per flash are |required to erase a windowed device/eprom? Is there any danger to the |device if these are exceeded?

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