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PICList Thread
'UV Erasers'
1997\05\02@092428 by Ed Todd

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I am looking for a new UV eraser.  I want to be able to quickly erase a
good number of 16C63's.  What do I look for, what technical terms, type of
light/bulb and so on?
 <spam_OUTedtoddTakeThisOuTspamsni.net>    Ed Todd

1997\05\02@110116 by Daniel Nyberg

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>I am looking for a new UV eraser.  I want to be able to quickly erase a
>good number of 16C63's.  What do I look for, what technical terms, type of
>light/bulb and so on?
>  <.....edtoddKILLspamspam@spam@sni.net>    Ed Todd

If you would quickly erase a chip, there is an eraser called Flash Eraser II,
manufactured by Bron.

It erases a chip in 15 seconds. But only ONE chip at the time.

Daniel Nyberg

1997\05\02@160313 by Mike Smith

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> From: Daniel Nyberg <md87danyspamKILLspamTIMRA.SE>
> To: .....PICLISTKILLspamspam.....MITVMA.MIT.EDU
> Subject: Re: UV Erasers
> Date: Saturday, 3 May 1997 00:19
>
> If you would quickly erase a chip, there is an eraser called Flash Eraser
II,
> manufactured by Bron.
>
> It erases a chip in 15 seconds. But only ONE chip at the time.
>
What does it use as a UV source?  A xenon arc lamp?

MikeS
<EraseMEmikesmith_ozspam_OUTspamTakeThisOuTrelaymail.net>

1997\05\03@024210 by Alan King

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<HTML><BODY>

<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE><I>></I>&nbsp;
<BR><I>> It erases a chip in 15 seconds. But only ONE chip at the
time.</I>&nbsp;
<BR><I>></I>&nbsp;
</BLOCKQUOTE>
&nbsp; I only have the 16c56jw parts to go by, but my eraser cleans them
up in 30 secs or so..&nbsp; Is my eraser just a good one or are some of
the other eprom parts just that much harder to erase?&nbsp; Everybody talks
of 10+ minutes which is what I'm used to from large eproms on other erasers
but I haven't done much besides the 56 for comparison.
<BR>
<BR>

</BODY>
</HTML>

1997\05\03@140830 by Gerhard Fiedler

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At 02:45 03/05/97 -0400, Alan King wrote:
><HTML><BODY>
>
><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE><I>></I>&nbsp;

Anybody knows a good email client which understands basic HTML?

1997\05\03@155708 by Andy Kunz

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>Anybody knows a good email client which understands basic HTML?

Good, no, but I think both Netscape and Explorer's mail functions do.

Andy

==================================================================
Andy Kunz - Montana Design - 409 S 6th St - Phillipsburg, NJ 08865
         Hardware & Software for Industry & R/C Hobbies
       "Go fast, turn right, and keep the wet side down!"
==================================================================

1997\05\03@175535 by Alan King

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Gerhard Fiedler wrote:
>
> At 02:45 03/05/97 -0400, Alan King wrote:
> ><HTML><BODY>
> >
> ><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE><I>></I>&nbsp;
>
> Anybody knows a good email client which understands basic HTML?

 Sorry, I had specifically checked the 'send as plain text' box but
there was a different global 'default to html' option still on that
overrode the plain text.  If you have Win95, try the Netscape
Communicator Beta 3.  It is much more solid than I expected of a beta
version, and the composer is the only WYSIWYG html editor I have ever
used that works reasonably well.  Not perfect but pretty good..  Now
maybe I can really get around to putting up a pic page at my site!

Alan

1997\05\03@212006 by Andrew Warren

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Ed Todd <PICLISTspamspam_OUTMITVMA.MIT.EDU> wrote:

> I am looking for a new UV eraser.  I want to be able to quickly
> erase a good number of 16C63's.  What do I look for, what technical
> terms, type of light/bulb and so on?

Ed:

I assume that you're looking for a "professional" eraser, not
something like the Datarase-II.

If so, you should look for one that places your chips face-up in a
sliding drawer.  The case should be heavy enough, and/or the drawer
should slide smoothly enough, that you can open and close it with
one hand.

The drawer should seal tightly enough to keep UV from leaking out,
and there should be an indicator (usually, it's a clear window coated
with UV-flourescent paint) that shows that the bulb is on.  There
should, of course, be a safety interlock that turns off the bulb
whenever the drawer's open.

The drawer should be lined with conductive foam; if it's not, make
sure that there's enough room for you to put your own foam in there.

Bulbs must be replaceable, and you should buy an extra bulb when you
buy the eraser.

A timer is essential; ideally, it'll be a mechanical windup thing,
not an electronic one that you have to set with a tiny screwdriver.

Personally, I like Spectroline's erasers; they're a little expensive,
but worth it.

-Andy

=== Andrew Warren - @spam@fastfwdKILLspamspamix.netcom.com
=== Fast Forward Engineering, Vista, California
=== http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/2499

1997\05\03@224002 by Peer Ouwehand

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At 15:07 96/05/03 +0000, you wrote:
>At 02:45 03/05/97 -0400, Alan King wrote:
>><HTML><BODY>
>>
>><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE><I>></I>&nbsp;
>
>Anybody knows a good email client which understands basic HTML?
>
>

Mmmm..  anyone know about an email prog that doesn't stuff all
that HTML code in to start with... ;)
One could try Eudora Light... Nice prog, and free too... (oops,
postcardware....)

Peer

1997\05\03@225912 by Jim Robertson

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At 02:45 AM 5/3/97 -0400, you wrote:
><HTML><BODY>
>
><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE><I>></I>&nbsp;
><BR><I>> It erases a chip in 15 seconds. But only ONE chip at the
> time.</I>&nbsp;
><BR><I>></I>&nbsp;
></BLOCKQUOTE>
>&nbsp; I only have the 16c56jw parts to go by, but my eraser cleans them
>up in 30 secs or so..&nbsp; Is my eraser just a good one or are some of
>the other eprom parts just that much harder to erase?&nbsp; Everybody talks
>of 10+ minutes which is what I'm used to from large eproms on other erasers
>but I haven't done much besides the 56 for comparison.
><BR>
><BR>
>
></BODY>
></HTML>
>
>

Don't worry, I can read HTML. I do it by standing on my head and squinting
my eyes. :~)

Anyway, the 16C5x parts do erase very quickly. Not so the 16Cxx parts that
have a much tighter die. There is nothing special about your eraser, well,
not unless your very sentimental about it.

Jim

1997\05\03@233213 by deweerd

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Ed Todd wrote:
>
> I am looking for a new UV eraser.  I want to be able to quickly erase a
> good number of 16C63's.  What do I look for, what technical terms, type of
> light/bulb and so on?
>   <KILLspamedtoddKILLspamspamsni.net>    Ed Todd

I have a couple of erasers from Digi-Key (Data-Erase, or sumthing).  But
the BEST eraser is this UV mineral Lamp.  Probably not on the list of
safest toys for you kids, because the UV lamps are plainly visible when
it is on, but it is huge, will erase anything in less than two minutes,
and would probably be capable of erasing about 50 '63s at a time!

1997\05\05@001211 by Gerhard Fiedler

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At 17:59 03/05/97 -0400, Alan King wrote:
>  Sorry, I had specifically checked the 'send as plain text' box but
>there was a different global 'default to html' option still on that
>overrode the plain text.

No problem, I _can_ read it :-)  but as it happens once in a while (and
maybe more so in the future), I was wondering how one gets prepared for
this type of messages.

>If you have Win95, try the Netscape Communicator Beta 3.
Or Andy:
>Good, no, but I think both Netscape and Explorer's mail functions do.

"Good, no": that's it -- I would not want to go with either of these
program's "mail functions" just for them being able to display HTML.


'UV Erasers'
1998\03\03@180610 by SHAWN ELLIS
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Hey, anybody recomend a good UV eraser?

Only needs to hold a couple of PICs at a time (40-pin), but I'd like
the fastest one I can get!

Thanks,

1998\03\03@192917 by Andrew Warren

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SHAWN ELLIS <RemoveMEPICLISTTakeThisOuTspamMITVMA.MIT.EDU> wrote:

> Hey, anybody recomend a good UV eraser?
>
> Only needs to hold a couple of PICs at a time (40-pin), but I'd like
> the fastest one I can get!

Shawn:

Datarase-II, available from Digi-Key (1 800 DIGI-KEY) and others for
around $40.  Get the one with the built-in timer.

-Andy

=== Andrew Warren - spamBeGonefastfwdspamBeGonespamix.netcom.com
=== Fast Forward Engineering - Vista, California
=== http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/2499

1998\03\23@145351 by eric

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Yes,  what is the final solution??  Now that I want to use a 12C508
and looking left and right, up and down for a UV eraser!

I checked around and found that Sylvania makes a 18" tube
(P/N F18/T12/350BL/700/PH with 202-BTCP ballast) which is also
suitable for making PCBs at home.  Anybody who can comment on this,
please.

Morgan Olsson Wrote:

{Quote hidden}

1998\03\23@162828 by Leo van Loon

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UV tubes suitable for erase purpose are not suitable for PCB production and
vice-versa!
For erasing use e.g. Philips TUV 15W (quartz, clear tube, most used as
sterilisation lamp).
For PCB Philips TL 15W05 (glass, white tube, most used in fly-cache lamps)

Superbe link for PCB production: http://www.thinktink.com/

Leo van Loon
SBB simpeltronics
Netherlands
tel +31 (0481) 450034
fax+31 (0481) 450051
mail RemoveMEsbb.simpeltronspamTakeThisOuTtip.nl
url http://www.sbb-simpeltronics.nl
SBB simpeltronics ontwikkelt technische projecten voor basisschool en
basisvorming.
SBB simpeltronics develops technical projects for children in primary and
secondary education.

-----Oorspronkelijk bericht-----
Van: eric <ericchanEraseMEspam.....MYNA.COM>
Aan: EraseMEPICLISTspamMITVMA.MIT.EDU <RemoveMEPICLISTEraseMEspamEraseMEMITVMA.MIT.EDU>
Datum: maandag 23 maart 1998 21:08
Onderwerp: Re: UV Erasers


Yes,  what is the final solution??  Now that I want to use a 12C508
and looking left and right, up and down for a UV eraser!

I checked around and found that Sylvania makes a 18" tube
(P/N F18/T12/350BL/700/PH with 202-BTCP ballast) which is also
suitable for making PCBs at home.  Anybody who can comment on this,
please.

Morgan Olsson Wrote:

>  << ANy thoughts on a UV eraser?
>
> It just struck my mind: *cheap*!  (But does it work?)
> Theese light tube starters, (not electrionic models): If I remember
> correctly: in open state when powered they emit a little UV-radiation.
>
> Maybe possible to cut the Glass bulb out, place it on the PIC window and
> power it from the mains thru a power resistor? (To much power will make
the
{Quote hidden}

powder
{Quote hidden}


'UV Erasers'
1999\02\06@150102 by Eric Oliver
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Ok, now that I know I need to erase the PIC17s, I need a UV eraser.  I
thought I read here recently about a product called .. DataRase ?  The
person seemed to be happy with it but neither Jameco nor Digikey has it
listed.

Thanks,
Eric

1999\02\06@163206 by Barry Cooper

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At 01:45 PM 06/02/99 -0600, you wrote:
>Ok, now that I know I need to erase the PIC17s, I need a UV eraser.  I
>thought I read here recently about a product called .. DataRase ?  The
>person seemed to be happy with it but neither Jameco nor Digikey has it
>listed.
>
>Thanks,
>Eric
>

 Digikey does have them, In the Canadian catalog on page 187, 62.35 w/o
timer, 77.95 with timer, ER2-ND without timer ER3-ND with.

       Barry

1999\02\07@232421 by Eric Oliver

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Digikey does have them, In the Canadian catalog on page 187, 62.35 w/o
timer, 77.95 with timer, ER2-ND without timer ER3-ND with.

Slap !! Ok I'm awake now. Yes, you are right. I was looking right at it. Thanks.

Eric


'UV erasers'
1999\04\20@013219 by Bill Sherwood
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Hi everybody,

I just subscribed and here is my first query...

I have need for an UV eraser for windowed devices and wish to make my own.
I read somewhere that the intense flash from xenon flashtubes has a high UV
content.  Does anyone know how many flashes at how many joules per flash are
required to erase a windowed device/eprom?  Is there any danger to the
device if these are exceeded?

Old camera flash assemblies are easily converted for lower power levels and
faster strobe conditions and offer an easy solution if combined with a timer
or counter to limit the flash number.  This also takes the pain out of
having to take my parts to work in order to erase them!

Best regards to all,
Bill

1999\04\20@124327 by Glen

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Bill Sherwood wrote:

> Hi everybody,
>
> I just subscribed and here is my first query...
>
> I have need for an UV eraser for windowed devices and wish to make my own.
> I read somewhere that the intense flash from xenon flashtubes has a high UV
> content.  Does anyone know how many flashes at how many joules per flash are
> required to erase a windowed device/eprom?  Is there any danger to the
> device if these are exceeded?
>
> Old camera flash assemblies are easily converted for lower power levels and
> faster strobe conditions and offer an easy solution if combined with a timer
> or counter to limit the flash number.  This also takes the pain out of
> having to take my parts to work in order to erase them!
>
> Best regards to all,
> Bill

******************you probarbly have an old fluro light lying around.
easier to go & buy a uv tube that fits it (like they use to make pcb negs.)
regards
glen


'UV erasers'
1999\05\03@135114 by John Payson
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|I have need for an UV eraser for windowed devices and wish to make my own.
|I read somewhere that the intense flash from xenon flashtubes has a high UV
|content.  Does anyone know how many flashes at how many joules per flash are
|required to erase a windowed device/eprom?  Is there any danger to the
|device if these are exceeded?

Bad things can happen to flash tubes if you put through too much
energy (either per flash or cumulative).  Most flash devices can
handle much more energy per surge at slower cyclic rates than at
higher ones.

|Old camera flash assemblies are easily converted for lower power levels and
|faster strobe conditions and offer an easy solution if combined with a timer
|or counter to limit the flash number.  This also takes the pain out of
|having to take my parts to work in order to erase them!

Most flash tubes are made of normal amorphic glass.  As a result,
little or none of the hard UV given off by the flash will escape.
If you're taking pictures of people this is a good thing.  If you
are trying to erase chips it's a bad thing.

Good mercury-based erasers can be produced cheaply and easily, and
don't have the problems you'll run into with Xenon flashes.

BTW, is it possible/practical/desirable to use mercury tubes as
"flashes"?  I know that on many series-ballast fixtures the light
will flash when it first comes on and the flashes can be brighter
than the normal light output.  Could a device that used inductive
kickback to repeatedly bash a flourescent tube produce a higher
average light output than one that runs continously?

1999\05\03@141035 by Jeff Barlow

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The Datarase II is only $39.95 at Digi-Key. It works fine. Why build your
own.

|I have need for an UV eraser for windowed devices and wish to make my own.
|I read somewhere that the intense flash from xenon flashtubes has a high UV
|content.  Does anyone know how many flashes at how many joules per flash
are
|required to erase a windowed device/eprom?  Is there any danger to the
|device if these are exceeded?

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