Post by thread:STRIP-X

Hi, different from what the subject can make you think, it comes in a small 2 fl. oz. It is not a X stripper, but some kind of jelly (extreme toxic) that strips the enamel from magnetic wires for soldering purposes. I produce this device that use few pieces of magnetic wires (28 or 30 AWG gage), so it is quite difficult to decape it for soldering. I found this STRIP-X from GC Electronics, it works pretty good, in less than a minute the enamel just detach from the wire where you apply this jelly thing. Problem is, it smells like hell, and it is toxic, label says it is fatal is swallowed or absorbed by the skin. Every time I open the bottle we need to ventilate the ambient for quite some time, and seems that the smell stick to carpet, walls, and so on... nice huh? Is there any other possible solution to decape the enamel from magnetic wires without using a blade? we tried even a small flame (torch), didn't work good. How they do it in industrial production? Wagner.

From: "Wagner Lipnharski" <spam_OUTwagnerTakeThisOuTUSTR.NET> > Every time I open the bottle we need to ventilate the ambient for quite > some time, and seems that the smell stick to carpet, walls, and so on... > nice huh? Is there any other possible solution to decape the enamel > from magnetic wires without using a blade? we tried even a small flame > (torch), didn't work good. How they do it in industrial production? Be careful with burning it, quite a lot of enamelled wire I've seen recently has had warnings pronted on the reel about toxic fumes if the coating is burned (we have quite good rules about health labelling here in Europe these days). It is a nuisance, the old-fashioned types used to burn off a treat. I resort to scraping with a scalpel these days, though I have seen a machine at a company that assembles stuff for one of my clients which appears to have two revolving abrasive drums. The operator puts the end of the wire in a hole and turns it slightly and it's cleaned off as quick as you could want. .

when making torroids for dc-dc inverter ,the solder pot works wonders. i also use a water based organic flux (easier to wash in hot running water so no flux remover) for really small job runs i made a small solder pot from a metal bottle cap attached to the end of an 45 watt solder iron element as for maximinum heat transfer on the small pot keep direct air flow from hitting the pot and use a small box muffin fan attached to the end of flexible laundry dryer vent pipe,(4-5inches diameter)vent out to the window. hang the other end of the vent tube over the rising solder fumes... this will suck out the smoke while not cooling the pot too much..... {Original Message removed}

Yes, I've been at a factory where they make RF filters, and the pot method is what they use for stripping the enamel. Gabriel ----- Original Message ----- From: TIM <.....stm800KILLspam@spam@CITY-NET.COM> To: <PICLISTKILLspamMITVMA.MIT.EDU> Sent: Saturday, April 22, 2000 5:57 AM Subject: Re: [OT] STRIP-X > when making torroids for dc-dc inverter ,the solder pot works wonders. > i also use a water based organic flux > (easier to wash in hot running water so no flux remover) > for really small job runs i made a small solder pot from > a metal bottle cap attached to the end of an 45 watt solder iron element > as for maximinum heat transfer on the small pot keep direct air flow from > hitting the pot and use a small box muffin fan attached to the end of > flexible laundry dryer vent pipe,(4-5inches diameter)vent out to the window. > hang the other end of the vent tube over the rising solder fumes... > this will suck out the smoke while not cooling the pot too much..... > {Original Message removed}

Dalbani ( http://www.dalbani.com/ ) has a solder pot made by Solomon that should work for tinning wires and it only costs about $17 US. The solder cup is small, about 1.5 inches diameter by 1.25 inches deep. The small size probably makes it unsuitable for many other purposes. It looks like a large soldering iron with a solder pot in place of the tip. I don't know if its temperature of 450 to 550 degrees C is enough to strip insulation from magnet wire. -- Rich TIM wrote: {Quote hidden}> > when making torroids for dc-dc inverter ,the solder pot works wonders. > i also use a water based organic flux > (easier to wash in hot running water so no flux remover) > for really small job runs i made a small solder pot from > a metal bottle cap attached to the end of an 45 watt solder iron element > as for maximinum heat transfer on the small pot keep direct air flow from > hitting the pot and use a small box muffin fan attached to the end of > flexible laundry dryer vent pipe,(4-5inches diameter)vent out to the window. > hang the other end of the vent tube over the rising solder fumes... > this will suck out the smoke while not cooling the pot too much..... > {Original Message removed}

Gabriel Gonzalez wrote: > Yes, I've been at a factory where they make RF filters, and the pot > method is what they use for stripping the enamel. This is of course based on the use of "self-fluxing" enamel which first came out under the trade name "biceflux". Small wire can be "stripped" by touching the end to a solder blob held on the end of your iron - once the wire heats to soldering temperature, the insulation self-strips back, the trick is to actually get the wire to this temperature. Obviously, the solder pot causes maximum contact with the enamel to heat the wire. Understandably, while this suits simple (tuning) inductors, transformers and other coils made to operate at high temperature may however use other grades of enamel designed to resist soldering temperatures. -- Cheers, Paul B.

Does anyone know where I can buy (in hobbyist quantities) that wire that used to be available that is explicitly designed to have solding destroy it's insulation? IIRC, it was sold for a special tool that could be used to wrap the (insulated) wire around your IC or socket pins, and then you'd solder "normally" which would remove the insulations AND solder the joint. Anything similar would be fine, I guess. Thanks Bill W

At 01:40 AM 4/23/00 PDT, you wrote: >Does anyone know where I can buy (in hobbyist quantities) that wire that >used to be available that is explicitly designed to have solding destroy >it's insulation? IIRC, it was sold for a special tool that could be used >to wrap the (insulated) wire around your IC or socket pins, and then you'd >solder "normally" which would remove the insulations AND solder the joint. >Anything similar would be fine, I guess. > Hi, Bill, Most magnet wire works like this. IIRC, it's a polyurethane insulation. When coils are terminated, the wired are just wrapped around the terminals then the whole thing is dipped into a solder pot to finish the joints off en masse. I used to use it for doing prototypes, these days I usually just get a board made and be done with it (fixes, if I ever made a mistake, ;-) would use the same wire). You can get clear, red and green fairly easily. Really old stuff has a dark red color and is more of an enamel or varnish. That stuff has to be removed mechanically. Best regards, =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= Spehro Pefhany --"it's the network..." "The Journey is the reward" .....speffKILLspam.....interlog.com Info for manufacturers: http://www.trexon.com Embedded software/hardware/analog Info for designers: http://www.speff.com Contributions invited->The AVR-gcc FAQ is at: http://www.bluecollarlinux.com =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=

Altho the solder pot method works fine for most hobbiest and/or small shops, it is not really how it is done in some (/most?) larger production areas. They have a machine with two hard clothlike wheels. The wheels are touching each other in a way that if you put a small single wire between them, it will grab it and spit it out the other side. The wheels are adjusted just right to not grab and pull on the wires but just enough to scrape the enamal off. Yes, there are finger guards so you fingers can't get sucked into it. Wagner Lipnharski wrote: {Quote hidden}> Hi, different from what the subject can make you think, it comes in a > small 2 fl. oz. It is not a X stripper, but some kind of jelly (extreme > toxic) that strips the enamel from magnetic wires for soldering > purposes. I produce this device that use few pieces of magnetic wires > (28 or 30 AWG gage), so it is quite difficult to decape it for > soldering. I found this STRIP-X from GC Electronics, it works pretty > good, in less than a minute the enamel just detach from the wire where > you apply this jelly thing. Problem is, it smells like hell, and it is > toxic, label says it is fatal is swallowed or absorbed by the skin. > Every time I open the bottle we need to ventilate the ambient for quite > some time, and seems that the smell stick to carpet, walls, and so on... > nice huh? Is there any other possible solution to decape the enamel > from magnetic wires without using a blade? we tried even a small flame > (torch), didn't work good. How they do it in industrial production? > Wagner.

Wagner, I too have similar problems stripping fine wire (0.032 to 0.055 mm diameter) I normally use a hot soldering iron and tin the wire. This works eventually, but is time consuming and often the wire breaks. I worked in a lab in france for a while. There they had some stuff which sounds like your Strip-X. There was no label on the can and no one knew where it came from. It worked really well though. I used it in a proper fume hood, so the smell was not an issue. Dou you have a web address for the company? Thanks Joe {Original Message removed}

Gentlemen; I called a wire manufacturer a while back, and they indicated that true enamel coated wire was a rare product. They have a number of types of coating that you can get on your wire, some of which can be stripped clean by the heat of an iron and solder. Could save you the grief of stripping entirely. Chirs Eddy Joe McCauley wrote: > Wagner, > > I too have similar problems stripping fine wire (0.032 to 0.055 mm diameter) > I normally use a hot soldering iron and tin the wire. This works eventually,

As I indicated a soldering iron is how I am doing this at the moment but with wire as fine as 0.032mm you can very easily damage the wire. If you are making contacts on a precisely wound and balanced 5K turn balanced coil system you cannot afford to loose any wire from the end of the winding never mind at the start of the winding. A chemical stripper is the best way to go here IMHO. Joe {Original Message removed}

In 1968, I owned a VW bug and it seemed a little dull. A bunch of us decided to paint it to be more in tune with the "age of Aquarius." Unfortunately, the bug has an inordinately large surface area and we had inordinately small talent. Several years later, the paint had to come off. I went to a supplier for auto body shops and purchased several gallons of a jelly-like substance. You brushed it on, waited a few minutes and off came the blistered paint. Even in 1972, it was labeled as carcinogenic. It was a nasty witch's brew, but it would even remove lacquer and varnish, to say nothing of the body putty that was underneath. If you need just a little, try a body shop. They'll probably give you a few CC's. David Porter EraseMEdporterspam_OUTTakeThisOuTvoicenet.com ---------- > From: Chris Eddy <ceddyspam_OUTNB.NET> > To: @spam@PICLISTKILLspamMITVMA.MIT.EDU > Subject: Re: [OT] STRIP-X (enamel wire) > Date: Monday, May 15, 2000 8:09 AM > > Gentlemen; > > I called a wire manufacturer a while back, and they indicated that true enamel > coated wire was a rare product. They have a number of types of coating that you > can get on your wire, some of which can be stripped clean by the heat of an iron > and solder. Could save you the grief of stripping entirely. > > Chirs Eddy > > Joe McCauley wrote: > > > Wagner, > > > > I too have similar problems stripping fine wire (0.032 to 0.055 mm diameter) > > I normally use a hot soldering iron and tin the wire. This works eventually,