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'ERASER LAMP-Quick$dirty,cheap$nice'
1998\12\11@111703 by

flavicon
face
> Speaking of which, is there any low buck ways to erase the eprom data
> other than buying a 60 dollar UV lamp? I heard you can lay the chip in the
> sun, but how long and does it really erase everything?
I've seen the DATAERASE on sale for around $40.


Weeks ago  I left  my UV erasable chips under the sun for hours and I did
not notice any change (even using the magnifier glass someone
suggested)until they flew away from  my home balcony in 7th floor,just
because of the wind.

This thread about "a cheaper way to erase" have been here around the list
for months. I made a search (list archives) and based on that I built my owm
eraser.
 It cost me about 20 bucks  and is safe, portable , battery operated and
nice. Moreover you can replace the regular lamp back  and use it as a
standard fluorescent lamp.

I bought a standard battery operated fluorescent lamp  for $9.99 and then
ordered the UV D G4T5 germicidal lamp for $10.30 , added a safe enclosure
and ready to go ....12 minutes erasure time is enough for me having a pipeline.

 Safe tip : Never look into the burning lamp.

Eddy

1998\12\11@112533 by Sean Breheny

face picon face
Hi,

> Weeks ago  I left  my UV erasable chips under the sun for hours and I did
>not notice any change (even using the magnifier glass someone
>suggested)until they flew away from  my home balcony in 7th floor,just
>because of the wind.

I have always heard that many types of glass do not pass UV well. You may
need to use a UV lens for this instead. Also, the UV focus would be
somewhat closer in toward the lens than the visible light foci.

Sean

+-------------------------------+
| Sean Breheny                  |
| Amateur Radio Callsign: KA3YXM|
| Electrical Engineering Student|
+-------------------------------+
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1998\12\11@113408 by dave vanhorn

flavicon
face
At 11:22 AM 12/11/98 -0500, you wrote:
>Hi,
>
>> Weeks ago  I left  my UV erasable chips under the sun for hours and I did
>>not notice any change (even using the magnifier glass someone
>>suggested)until they flew away from  my home balcony in 7th floor,just
>>because of the wind.

You wanted the program to go away didn't you? :)

>I have always heard that many types of glass do not pass UV well. You may
>need to use a UV lens for this instead. Also, the UV focus would be
>somewhat closer in toward the lens than the visible light foci.

Window glass (and glasses-glass) dosen't pass short UV.  The window on your
EPROM is quartz for that reason.
Now ask me why glasses places want to sell you a "UV coating"...
(Glass does pass long UV, but the hazard of that is highly debatable)

1998\12\11@114436 by Peter L. Peres

picon face
On Fri, 11 Dec 1998, Sean Breheny wrote:

> > Weeks ago  I left  my UV erasable chips under the sun for hours and I did
> >not notice any change (even using the magnifier glass someone
> >suggested)until they flew away from  my home balcony in 7th floor,just
> >because of the wind.
>
> I have always heard that many types of glass do not pass UV well. You may
> need to use a UV lens for this instead. Also, the UV focus would be
> somewhat closer in toward the lens than the visible light foci.

Actually the battery powered unit uses no lens (i.e. it is removed
completely, or painted over, a piece of static foam glued inside, and
provided with a hinge to serve as chip carrier and loading door at the
same time).

I use the exact same device for home use, without lens and battery, but
with coil + starter + cap on mains power. I also bolted a mild steel tape
to the lamp case all round so you can't see the light when it is put on a
table, lamp facing down. The lamp is about 12 mm above a DIL chip window
standing on the table. Some day soon I'll add a micro switch to cut power
when the device is not laying flat on the table.

Along the same lines: How do you mark down the original calibration on JW
508s and 509s ? I use a steel needle to scratch it into the brazed window
bezel but sometimes more scratches are added during handling and then it's
gone. Is there a marker pen that uses non-transparent non-removable ink
and has a fine tip ?

tia,

Peter

1998\12\11@122529 by Matt Bonner
flavicon
face
dave vanhorn wrote:
>
> >> Weeks ago  I left  my UV erasable chips under the sun for hours and I did
> >>not notice any change (even using the magnifier glass someone
> >>suggested)until they flew away from  my home balcony in 7th floor,just
> >>because of the wind.
>
> You wanted the program to go away didn't you? :)
>
I hope that your balcony is screened.  You wouldn't want any bugs to get
into your PIC.
;-)

--Matt

1998\12\11@131056 by Eduardo R.

flavicon
face
>Along the same lines: How do you mark down the original calibration on JW
>508s and 509s ? I use a steel needle to scratch it into the brazed window
>bezel but sometimes more scratches are added during handling and then it's
>gone. Is there a marker pen that uses non-transparent non-removable ink
>and has a fine tip ?


 Yes, I am using Staedtler Lumocolor # 313 permanent ink marker refillable
(used for PCB etching  as well). The ink is removable with any acetone based
remover like nail polish remover.

Eddy


-------------------------

This thread about "a cheaper way to erase" have been here around the list
for months. I made a search (list archives) and based on that I built my owm
eraser.
 It cost me about 20 bucks  and is safe, portable , battery operated and
nice. Moreover you can replace the regular lamp back  and use it as a
standard fluorescent lamp.

I bought a standard battery operated fluorescent lamp  for $9.99 and then
ordered the UV D G4T5 germicidal lamp for $10.30 , added a safe enclosure
and ready to go ....12 minutes erasure time is enough for me having a pipeline.

 Safe tip : Never look into the burning lamp.

1998\12\11@132032 by Eduardo R.

flavicon
face
>I hope that your balcony is screened.  You wouldn't want any bugs to get
>into your PIC.
>;-)

Nope, not screen at all,that's the reason I never got them back ..but it
was my first
PIC based flying project, anyway. I showed my child how  amazing the PICs
are, they even fly by themselves.:-D

Eddy


---------------------------
At 10:24 AM 12/11/98 -0700, you wrote:
>dave vanhorn wrote:
>>
>> >> Weeks ago  I left  my UV erasable chips under the sun for hours and I did
>> >>not notice any change (even using the magnifier glass someone
>> >>suggested)until they flew away from  my home balcony in 7th floor,just
>> >>because of the wind.
>>
>> You wanted the program to go away didn't you? :)
>>

1998\12\11@133706 by Andy Kunz

flavicon
face
>Along the same lines: How do you mark down the original calibration on JW
>508s and 509s ? I use a steel needle to scratch it into the brazed window
>bezel but sometimes more scratches are added during handling and then it's
>gone. Is there a marker pen that uses non-transparent non-removable ink
>and has a fine tip ?

I scratch it into the ceramic underside.  Lots of protection (ie, sharp
pins!) to keep them area from being handled.

Andy


==================================================================
Andy Kunz - Statistical Research, Inc. - Westfield, New Jersey USA
==================================================================

1998\12\11@135949 by Peter L. Peres

picon face
> >> >> Weeks ago  I left  my UV erasable chips under the sun for hours and I di
d
> >> >>not notice any change (even using the magnifier glass someone
> >> >>suggested)until they flew away from  my home balcony in 7th floor,just
> >> >>because of the wind.

I'd like to mention that it is possible that high efficiency desk PL lamps
make enough UV to erase an EPROM, when the lamps are new.

I wer glasses that go dark in the sun, this is based on a near UV
sensitive reversible chemical reaction afaik, and when left under such a
new PL lamp they went dark about 1/2 the way. Under an UV eraser they go
VERY dark VERY fast.

Thus, next time, tape an EPROM to your desk lamp bulb (must be PL and new)
and leave it there for a week or so, and maybe...

BTW taping the chip near the end of the lamp where the phosphor ends may
help imho, as there is often a band of clear glass between the socket and
where the phospho starts. If you look into it with a dentist's mirror, you
should be able to see a bright blue glow inside the lamp (so don't look
inside).

Peter

1998\12\11@153033 by paulb

flavicon
face
Peter L. Peres wrote:

> If you look into it with a dentist's mirror, you should be able to see
> a bright blue glow inside the lamp (so don't look inside).

 I«ll bite - is there something special about the dentist«s mirror or
just gettng into a tight place?
--
 Cheers,
       Paul B.

1998\12\11@155020 by Matt Bonner

flavicon
face
Someone wrote:
>
>Along the same lines: How do you mark down the original calibration on JW
>508s and 509s ? I use a steel needle to scratch it into the brazed window
>bezel but sometimes more scratches are added during handling and then it's
>gone. Is there a marker pen that uses non-transparent non-removable ink
>and has a fine tip ?
>
Staedtler Lumocolor 313 Permanent (available at any drafting supply
store).  Get the size "S".  Not only is it waterproof, but it's
wasserfest and indelebile.  :-)

I use it to mark UV '74As that I've code-protected and later erased (but
that's another thread).

--Matt

1998\12\11@170531 by Astantax

picon face
I want off this idiotic list!!!!!!

1998\12\12@023931 by Scott Shidel...

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face
On Fri, 11 Dec 1998 .....AstantaxKILLspamspam@spam@aol.com wrote:

> I want off this idiotic list!!!!!!
>

try unsubscribing..duh....
You got a list of instructions when you joined.

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1998\12\12@071609 by Stig Brautaset

flavicon
face
> Peter L. Peres wrote:
>
> > If you look into it with a dentist's mirror, you should be able to see
> > a bright blue glow inside the lamp (so don't look inside).
>
>   I«ll bite - is there something special about the dentist«s mirror or
> just gettng into a tight place?

I'd guess the tight place have to do with it, plus that it does not reflect
UV light. Or does it?

Stig

=======================================================
Stig Brautaset - sbrautasspamKILLspamc2i.net - ICQ:11052183
Student of electronics  -  http://home.c2i.net/sbrautas
=======================================================

1998\12\12@083158 by paulb

flavicon
face
Hello Stig.

> I'd guess the tight place have to do with it, plus that it does not
> reflect UV light.  Or does it?

 That was my point.  The glass in the mirror may absorb UV-C, but it
can relect (specularly) off the front surface of the glass.  X-ray
telescopes for example can't use refraction, since X-rays don't refract,
but they can use mirrors.
--
 Cheers,
       Paul B.

1998\12\12@085937 by wwl

picon face
On Fri, 11 Dec 1998 10:12:03 -0600, you wrote:

>> Speaking of which, is there any low buck ways to erase the eprom data
>> other than buying a 60 dollar UV lamp? I heard you can lay the chip in the
>> sun, but how long and does it really erase everything?
>I've seen the DATAERASE on sale for around $40.
Has anyone tried using 12V dichroic halogen lamps (the type with the
built-in reflector)? The ones for desk & 'near people' use have glass
UV filter across the front, so presumably the ones which have no
filter (for shop displays etc.) emit some shortwave UV - is it enough
to erase an eprom ? If so, this would be extremely cheap, especially
if you already had the 12V supply handy.

1998\12\13@134746 by Peter L. Peres

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On Fri, 11 Dec 1998 .....AstantaxKILLspamspam.....AOL.COM wrote:

> I want off this idiotic list!!!!!!

You have been removed from the list now. If the remove operation did not
succeed for some reason, and you keep getting email, please send an email
to:

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with the text:

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in the body and no subject.

regards, volunteer PICLIST helper,

Peter L. Peres
plpspamspam_OUTactcom.co.il

1998\12\13@134752 by Peter L. Peres

picon face
On Sat, 12 Dec 1998, Paul B. Webster VK2BZC wrote:

> Peter L. Peres wrote:
>
> > If you look into it with a dentist's mirror, you should be able to see
> > a bright blue glow inside the lamp (so don't look inside).
>
>   I´ll bite - is there something special about the dentist´s mirror or
> just gettng into a tight place?
                    ^^^^^^^^^^^

Unless you are an exophtalmic crab or something like that you won't be
able to look there with the bulb in place in most cases, imho. The place
is just at the joint of the lamp glass with the socket. Helpful hint:
cheap lamps are more likely to show bare glass there, than a good make
with CE etc signs on it.

Peter

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