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'[EE] White LEDs on mains'
2008\08\23@201333
by
Jinx
2008\08\24@074854
by
Rolf
Jinx wrote:
> A few weeks ago someone mentioned seeing white LEDs powered
> by mains. I'd seen it too but couldn't remember where
>
> Found this in one of my pdf stashes when looking for something else
>
> http://home.clear.net.nz/pages/joecolquitt/acwhiteleds.pdf
>
> 11kB
>
>
Why have the 'bridges' between the parallel strings of LED's? I'm
talking about how the nodes between the LED's that conduct on one cycle
of AC are connected to the nodes that conduct on the other cycle...
What purpose do they serve. I initially thought it could serve as a
mechanism to keep the system running in the event of a 'fail open' LED,
but no, that would not help...
Rolf
2008\08\24@084035
by
Jinx
> Why have the 'bridges' between the parallel strings of LED's?
Don't know. The LEDs won't be conducting half the time. It would
help with assembly a bit I guess, as you'd solder two LEDs in anti-
parallel and then join them to the next pair. Maybe ?
Irms = 6fCV for the 0.47uF cap gives 15mA. 20mA would be more
like 0.62uF for 120V/60Hz and 29uF for 230V/50Hz
2008\08\24@085112
by
Jinx
> 29uF for 230V/50Hz
How many ? 0.29uF
2008\08\24@114526
by
Tony Smith
> > Why have the 'bridges' between the parallel strings of LED's?
>
> Don't know. The LEDs won't be conducting half the time. It
> would help with assembly a bit I guess, as you'd solder two
> LEDs in anti- parallel and then join them to the next pair. Maybe ?
Has any ever made a bridge out of LEDs? It rectifies and lights up!
I've seen LEDs run off mains simply by using a resistor. The last one I saw
was in one of those cheap main filter things. Not the best for a lamp, but
it seemed to work ok as an indicator, if the layer of dust was any guide to
its age.
Usually it's a physically large resistor, either because dropping 240v
produces a few watts or to give a large gap for isolation in case something
goes wrong (sure!), but sometimes 2 or 3 small wattage ones in series. The
series method is for the really cheap stuff.
Tony
2008\08\24@144904
by
McReynolds, Alan A
Jinx wrote:
> A few weeks ago someone mentioned seeing white LEDs powered
> by mains. I'd seen it too but couldn't remember where
>
> Found this in one of my pdf stashes when looking for something else
>
> http://home.clear.net.nz/pages/joecolquitt/acwhiteleds.pdf
>
> 11kB
>
>
RE the PDF design:
Why use back-to-back LEDs? One can simply use a full wave rectifier and then use only one direction of LEDs.
Second, since each LED has a significant voltage drop, the voltage drop of the string could be quite large. This reduces the drop across the resistor. A 1K resistor can't be optimal for a single LED *and* a string of 12?
I've built some "fireflies in a bottle" decorations. These operate on 120V using a full wave rectifier, fuse and ~500ohm resistor. The resulting rectified DC current feeds a series of 55 yellow LED's. These have proved to be very durable.
...Alan
2008\08\24@145350
by
Sean Breheny
When running LEDs from the mains, I would be wary of the LED's
peak-reverse-voltage rating (typically only 5 or 10V). I *think* that
if you exceed that you simply cause avalanche breakdown (which, as
long as the resistor is there to limit current is probably OK) but
technically you are greatly exceeding the ratings of the LED. You
should use a silicon diode (like 1N4004) in series with the LED to
prevent it from seeing a couple hundred volts across it backwards.
Also, I'd want to use more than one current limiting resistor in
series. That way, in the unlikely event that one fails shorted, at
least the others are there to limit the current.
Sean
On Sun, Aug 24, 2008 at 11:44 AM, Tony Smith <spam_OUTajsmithTakeThisOuT
beagle.com.au> wrote:
{Quote hidden}>> > Why have the 'bridges' between the parallel strings of LED's?
>>
>> Don't know. The LEDs won't be conducting half the time. It
>> would help with assembly a bit I guess, as you'd solder two
>> LEDs in anti- parallel and then join them to the next pair. Maybe ?
>
>
> Has any ever made a bridge out of LEDs? It rectifies and lights up!
>
> I've seen LEDs run off mains simply by using a resistor. The last one I saw
> was in one of those cheap main filter things. Not the best for a lamp, but
> it seemed to work ok as an indicator, if the layer of dust was any guide to
> its age.
>
> Usually it's a physically large resistor, either because dropping 240v
> produces a few watts or to give a large gap for isolation in case something
> goes wrong (sure!), but sometimes 2 or 3 small wattage ones in series. The
> series method is for the really cheap stuff.
>
> Tony
>
> -
2008\08\24@153228
by
Mike Harrison
|
On Sun, 24 Aug 2008 14:53:25 -0400, you wrote:
>When running LEDs from the mains, I would be wary of the LED's
>peak-reverse-voltage rating (typically only 5 or 10V). I *think* that
>if you exceed that you simply cause avalanche breakdown (which, as
>long as the resistor is there to limit current is probably OK) but
>technically you are greatly exceeding the ratings of the LED. You
>should use a silicon diode (like 1N4004) in series with the LED to
>prevent it from seeing a couple hundred volts across it backwards.
>
>Also, I'd want to use more than one current limiting resistor in
>series. That way, in the unlikely event that one fails shorted, at
>least the others are there to limit the current.
>
Resistors don't fail short - even the standards for Intrinsically safe equipment for use in
flammable atmospheres state that resistors can be assumed to be infallible as regards failure to
lower values.
however using multiples in series helps spread heat load.
{Quote hidden}>
>
>On Sun, Aug 24, 2008 at 11:44 AM, Tony Smith <
.....ajsmithKILLspam
@spam@beagle.com.au> wrote:
>>> > Why have the 'bridges' between the parallel strings of LED's?
>>>
>>> Don't know. The LEDs won't be conducting half the time. It
>>> would help with assembly a bit I guess, as you'd solder two
>>> LEDs in anti- parallel and then join them to the next pair. Maybe ?
>>
>>
>> Has any ever made a bridge out of LEDs? It rectifies and lights up!
>>
>> I've seen LEDs run off mains simply by using a resistor. The last one I saw
>> was in one of those cheap main filter things. Not the best for a lamp, but
>> it seemed to work ok as an indicator, if the layer of dust was any guide to
>> its age.
>>
>> Usually it's a physically large resistor, either because dropping 240v
>> produces a few watts or to give a large gap for isolation in case something
>> goes wrong (sure!), but sometimes 2 or 3 small wattage ones in series. The
>> series method is for the really cheap stuff.
>>
>> Tony
>>
>> --
2008\08\24@171310
by
Wouter van Ooijen
Sean Breheny wrote:
> You
> should use a silicon diode (like 1N4004) in series with the LED to
> prevent it from seeing a couple hundred volts across it backwards.
That would work only if the leakage of the LED is (much) higher than
that of the diode. To avoid that (potential?) problem I would put the
diode across the LED, not in series.
--
Wouter van Ooijen
-- -------------------------------------------
Van Ooijen Technische Informatica: http://www.voti.nl
consultancy, development, PICmicro products
docent Hogeschool van Utrecht: http://www.voti.nl/hvu
2008\08\24@172046
by
Jinx
> When running LEDs from the mains, I would be wary of the LED's
> peak-reverse-voltage rating (typically only 5 or 10V)
One of my earliest discoveries about LEDs was a little circuit for
running them on 230V. 0.47uF and 1k in series, with a 1N4148
anti-parallel across the LED. I used a yellow LED, and it's still
there after mumble-mumble-mumble years, as an illuminator for
the counter on a reel-to-reel tape deck
2008\08\24@173128
by
Jinx
> I would put the diode across the LED, not in series
Similar to adding an anti-parallel 1N4148, as in another post
Then the configuration in that pdf could be looked at as a series of
anti-parallel pairs rather than two strings mashed together
2008\08\24@182130
by
Sean Breheny
Hi Mike,
Well, I can think of some design mistakes which could lead to a
resistor failing with a lower resistance than nominal. For example,
some small resistors have a maximum working voltage lower than what
you would expect based on power dissipation (200 to 250V for 1/4W thru
hole carbon film resistors). If you exceed this, I would imagine that
you could get arcing across part or all of the resistor. Also, if the
resistor overheats and burns material around it, any carbon-containing
material around it might be able to conduct once it burns.
Yes, those are a bit of a stretch, so I suppose that you are correct.
Sean
On Sun, Aug 24, 2008 at 3:30 PM, Mike Harrison <mike
KILLspamwhitewing.co.uk> wrote:
{Quote hidden}> On Sun, 24 Aug 2008 14:53:25 -0400, you wrote:
>>Also, I'd want to use more than one current limiting resistor in
>>series. That way, in the unlikely event that one fails shorted, at
>>least the others are there to limit the current.
>>
>
> Resistors don't fail short - even the standards for Intrinsically safe equipment for use in
> flammable atmospheres state that resistors can be assumed to be infallible as regards failure to
> lower values.
>
> however using multiples in series helps spread heat load.
>
>
2008\08\24@182702
by
Sean Breheny
Hi Wouter,
I thought about that but decided that putting the diode anti-parallel
to the LED would double the power dissipation of the current limiting
resistor. Also, the series diode would limit the inverse current
through the LED to (at maximum) the reverse leakage current of the
diode. I think it would be very difficult to damage the LED with such
a tiny current. I suppose what you say would be safer and if resistor
dissipation were an issue, TWO silicon diodes could be used, one
anti-parallel to the LED and one in series with the LED/diode
combination. This would guarantee that the reverse voltage on the LED
would be never more than 0.6V but there would still be negligible
current during the "off" part of the AC cycle.
Sean
On Sun, Aug 24, 2008 at 5:11 PM, Wouter van Ooijen <.....wouterKILLspam
.....voti.nl> wrote:
{Quote hidden}> Sean Breheny wrote:
>> You
>> should use a silicon diode (like 1N4004) in series with the LED to
>> prevent it from seeing a couple hundred volts across it backwards.
>
> That would work only if the leakage of the LED is (much) higher than
> that of the diode. To avoid that (potential?) problem I would put the
> diode across the LED, not in series.
>
> --
>
> Wouter van Ooijen
>
> -- -------------------------------------------
> Van Ooijen Technische Informatica:
http://www.voti.nl
> consultancy, development, PICmicro products
> docent Hogeschool van Utrecht:
http://www.voti.nl/hvu
>
> -
2008\08\24@210708
by
Xiaofan Chen
On Mon, Aug 25, 2008 at 3:30 AM, Mike Harrison <EraseMEmikespam_OUT
TakeThisOuTwhitewing.co.uk> wrote:
> Resistors don't fail short - even the standards for Intrinsically safe
> equipment for use in flammable atmospheres state that resistors
> can be assumed to be infallible as regards failure to
> lower values.
Not all resistors are equal. For IS (intrinsic safety) application, what you
say can only apply to certain type of resistors (eg: metal film and wire-wound).
Xiaofan
2008\08\25@105442
by
Harold Hallikainen
|
> On Mon, Aug 25, 2008 at 3:30 AM, Mike Harrison <mike
spam_OUTwhitewing.co.uk>
> wrote:
>
>> Resistors don't fail short - even the standards for Intrinsically safe
>> equipment for use in flammable atmospheres state that resistors
>> can be assumed to be infallible as regards failure to
>> lower values.
>
> Not all resistors are equal. For IS (intrinsic safety) application, what
> you
> say can only apply to certain type of resistors (eg: metal film and
> wire-wound).
>
> Xiaofan
I believe carbon composition resistors fail to a short. Film and wire
wound fail to an open. When I started in electronics, carbon composition
resistors were the only ones around. They had a cylindrical body. I
remember seeing my first carbon film resistor with the now familiar "dog
bone" shape and thought they were quite strange.
I haven't been following this thread closely, but have seen stuff about
protecting the LEDs from reverse voltage. As I recall from the original
schematic on the thread, short strings of LEDs were connected in parallel
with polarity reversed. That handles the reverse polarity protection and
also allows AC current to flow so the current limit capacitor does not
just charge up to the peak voltage and have everything stop.
Harold
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