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'[SX] Using an SX proto board in a car's 12 volt sy'
2006\09\12@175358
by
Jimbon/a
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Hello all,
I have an application in mind that would draw it's power from a car's 12 volt system. I was woried that it would strain the proto boards regulator as the 12 volts in car system while running can get up to 14 volts. I checked the specs on the LM2940 and it says it can handle an input voltage of up to 26 volts!
My question is, if thats so why does the board specify a six to nine volt adapter? A 12 volt adapter should work fine right?
Just wanted to check with the experts before I go out and fry a board! :shocked:
Thanks,
Jim W. :turn:
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Jim,
The LM2940 might handle 26 volts, but not at it's maximum current (1 Amp).
That would be (26-5) = 21 Watts of heat !!!
At 9 volts it would be (9-5) = 4 Watts of heat, alot but probably okay with a heatsink.
Bean.
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So, If I put a larger heat sink I should be OK with 12 volts? that should be easy and cheap!
Thanks,
Jim W.
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See my edit above. It depends on how much current you are using.
Bean.
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My circuit won't draw much current. I'll keep a finger on the heatsink. I could also put a little cpu fan over it if it gets too hot. But, I think I should be OK without one.
Thanks again,
Jim W.
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2006\09\13@074855 by cbmeeksn/a
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Ok, I am curious...what are you making?
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Hi cbmeeks,
I want to tell you now but I need to do a little more research before I blab about it. It's kind of a dumb idea (at least my wife thinks so.) But I think there might be a market for it. Others I've shown it to think it's a good idea (or, they are humoring me.) You will probably laugh. (like she did). But, give me a little while to get back to you.
Jim W.
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2006\09\13@203048 by c-isaacn/a
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At least you got a reaction from your wife. If she were indifferent, you may need to think twice.
Strong reactions, good or bad, are positive feedback. If some people love your idea AND some people hate it, it's a winner.
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If your wife thinks it's a dumb idea, that's better than a man thinking it's a good idea ;)
When I got my LPKF PCB milling machine, my wife thought it was the dumbest thing she'd ever seen.
Bean.
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2006\09\14@063831 by cbmeeksn/a
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[Quoting: "Basic Jim"]Hi cbmeeks,
I want to tell you now but I need to do a little more research before I blab about it. It's kind of a dumb idea (at least my wife thinks so.) But I think there might be a market for it. Others I've shown it to think it's a good idea (or, they are humoring me.) You will probably laugh. (like she did). But, give me a little while to get back to you.Jim W.
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2006\09\14@071938 by brianbrn/a
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[Quoting: "Basic Jim"]So, If I put a larger heat sink I should be OK with 12 volts? that should be easy and cheap!Thanks,
Jim W.
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Thank you Bean and Cbmeeks for your encouragement. The more I think about it the more I think it should be doable. What worries me most is that it isn't being done already so, there must be a reason. It's not rocket science.
Thanks Brian,
The diodes are an excellent idea. I'm not sure how hefty a choke I would need. Maybe I could scavenge one from an old car radio for testing purposes.
Best,
Jim W.
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2006\09\15@021509 by g_daubachn/a
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Having one or more diodes in series with the supply line has another advantage too: You protect the device against wrong polarity. This is why I usually put at least one 1N400x in series with the supply input.
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2006\09\15@073057 by brianbrn/a
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[Quoting: "earlier, I"]Automobiles are a very electronics unfriendly environment..
FWIW ... cheers
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2006\09\15@085634 by George Herzogn/a
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I was thinking that you could put a 7809 in front of the SX-48 and have that regulator dump the heat.
Boy! Have I been wasting money.
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Gunther,
That is a fantastic point! I will stock up on those little critters
Best,
Jim W.
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Brian,
Wow, I didnt know that. All this time I thought Mil spec was top of the line. Probably isn't much difference in spec. from military to automotive since both are subject to very extreme enviroments. Military might more robust in EMI surges I would think.
Best,
Jim W.
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Kramer,
You said, "I was thinking that you could put a 7809 in front of the SX-48 and have that regulator dump the heat."
That's how I was going to tackle the problem originally. I glad I posted my question. This forum is a fantastic resource!
Best,
Jim W.
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Can you also just put a 9VZener in parallel to the circuit on the frontside, so that the Zener dumps anything over The 9V?
Im just wondering for if my own circuits end up in that environment. It seems like a cheap fix to a noisy situation...
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2006\09\18@194435 by PJ Allenn/a
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[Quoting: "Steel"]
Can you also just put a 9VZener in parallel to the circuit on the frontside, so that the Zener dumps anything over The 9V?
No (that is, No Way.) Zener current [I[sub]Z[/sub]] must be limited.Sometimes a Zener is used this way (in parallel with the input) when the greatest expected input voltage is "just a tad" greater than the Zener voltage [V[sub]Z[/sub]], intending to then clear a fuse as a result.
Also, "pre-regulating" with diodes (pl.) isn't a panacaea, either (i.e. don't get carried away.)
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I would think that the back emf caused by your transport's starter motor is going to cause you far more grief than the reg running a little warm. Would suggest a bipass diode as a bare minimum to some supply filtering.
bongo
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2006\09\19@130909 by g_daubachn/a
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In critical applications I place a overvoltage protection diode, like a P6KE6V8 across the 5V supply (cathode to plus, anode to minus). Such diodes can dissipate peak power pulses of up to 600W at very fast response times. For example, I'm using them in an application where an SX controls a concrete saw, where extreamly high voltage transients can occur caused by a 400V, 16 Amps three-phase frequency converter. May be it's a good idea adding such a device to your automotive application.
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When I think about all the elctronics people use in their car now it seems to me that my SX board should survive. I've seen people run their computers, cell phones and even TV's from the cigarete lighter. Seems to work for them. :freaked:
For now I will try one of Gunther's P6KEV8 with some 4001 and a choke and that should hopefully get me by. :yeah: I have ordered a couple xtra proto boards just in case I'm wrong. If worse comes to worse I could break down and buy a DC-DC converter. :idea:
Thanks,
Jim W. :tongue:
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2006\09\21@011502 by g_daubachn/a
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Jim,
please fins attached the schematic for a DC/DC converter. I'm using it in many of may applications, and it works great.
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2006\09\22@213528 by transistortoastern/a
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You can use the MC34063 switching regulator. It's real cheap.
Frank
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