Searching \ for ' EPROM ERASER' in subject line. ()
Make payments with PayPal - it's fast, free and secure! Help us get a faster server
FAQ page: www.piclist.com/techref/index.htm?key=eprom+eraser
Search entire site for: 'EPROM ERASER'.

No exact or substring matches. trying for part
PICList Thread
'UV EPROM Eraser not Working (was: "Thanks!")'
1995\10\26@223400 by Andrew Warren

face
flavicon
face
Ben L Wirz <spam_OUTblw2TakeThisOuTspamCEC.WUSTL.EDU> wrote:

>I just got  eprom eraser today, and I don't think is working.
>Should I be able to see the UV light source when it is on, I know tis
>is bad to look directly into?  It has a dot that is supposed to glow
>when it is working, and is not.  Does is sound like I got a bad unit?
>
>I have a:
>Dataerase II from JDR
>(no timer)

Ben:

Do not, do not, DO NOT look at the bulb.  The fluorescent "dot" is
there for a reason.

As I recall, those Daterase II erasers have a safety-interlock switch
in the top cover to protect you from accidentally turning on the lamp
with the cover open.  My guess is that that interlock is keeping the
thing from turning on.

Make sure that the cover's properly installed in the grooves, and that
it's closed COMPLETELY (you should hear a little click as the interlock
engages), then try it again.

-Andy

--
Andrew Warren - .....fastfwdKILLspamspam@spam@ix.netcom.com
Fast Forward Engineering, Vista, California


'inexpensive eprom eraser for these pics?'
1996\06\02@051502 by NEIL GANDLER
flavicon
face
Anyone know of a source of an inexpensive Eprom eraser. $50 is the best
price I saw. Its almost the same price as the programmer. Thanks


               Neil Gandler

1996\06\02@080443 by Doug Manzer

picon face
At  5:05 AM 6/2/96 -0500, NEIL GANDLER wrote:
>Anyone know of a source of an inexpensive Eprom eraser. $50 is the best
>price I saw. Its almost the same price as the programmer. Thanks

I made my own using a Phillips PL9W miniature fluorescent lamp
adapter plus a PL-S 9W TUV germicidal lamp, both obtained from
a lighting shop. Total cost was about $40 Canadian. The whole
thing is mounted inside a cardboard box. I  also use a mechanical
egg timer -- 15 mins seems to be about right, with the lamp
resting right on the erasing window. There's room for about 7
EEPROM-sized devices at once.

** DON'T LOOK AT THE LIGHT FROM THIS RIG! ** (Obligatory warning).

Regards, D.M.

1996\06\02@182648 by David E. Queen

flavicon
face
At 04:14 AM 6/2/96 -0800, you wrote:
>At  5:05 AM 6/2/96 -0500, NEIL GANDLER wrote:
>>Anyone know of a source of an inexpensive Eprom eraser. $50 is the best
>>price I saw. Its almost the same price as the programmer. Thanks
>
>I made my own using a Phillips PL9W miniature fluorescent lamp
>adapter plus a PL-S 9W TUV germicidal lamp, both obtained from
>a lighting shop. Total cost was about $40 Canadian. The whole
>thing is mounted inside a cardboard box. I  also use a mechanical
>egg timer -- 15 mins seems to be about right, with the lamp
>resting right on the erasing window. There's room for about 7
>EEPROM-sized devices at once.
>
Digikey's ER2-ND is 39.95. No timer. The ad says it will erase most
EPROMS in 3 minutes. Does a PIC take longer than most eproms?
Anyone else have a better deal?

>** DON'T LOOK AT THE LIGHT FROM THIS RIG! ** (Obligatory warning).
>
>Regards, D.M.
>

1996\06\02@182701 by Stuart Allman

flavicon
face
At 05:05 AM 6/2/96 -0500, you wrote:
>Anyone know of a source of an inexpensive Eprom eraser. $50 is the best
>price I saw. Its almost the same price as the programmer. Thanks
>
>
>                Neil Gandler
>

I found mine in Digikey for $35.00.  I think it's called the datarase II, or
something like that.  It's the best deal I found in my search.  It only does
one or two eproms at once, but that's enough for my small needs.

Stuart Allman
Studio Sound Design
studiospamKILLspamhalcyon.com

1996\06\02@182953 by Robert Ct

flavicon
face
At 05:05 AM 6/02/96 -0500, you wrote:
>Anyone know of a source of an inexpensive Eprom eraser. $50 is the best
>price I saw. Its almost the same price as the programmer. Thanks
Many years ago, I had discovered that Ozone producing bulbs (used in some
clothe dryers) worked well at earasing EPROMS.  These 4 watt bulbs need a
ballast but I have been operaring them successfully with a normal 40 watt
bulb in series.  The one I have were make by Sylvania and General Electric.
Erasing time is about 30 minutes.
Eye protection is very important but can easily be accomplished according to
the instruction on the Sylvania bulb which states:"Protect eyes,ordinary
glass is sufficient protection".
I now have them in a small wooden box with a piece of glass on top (as a
door) that opens up to let me introduce the EPROM.  I remember paying about
8 or 9 dollars for the bulbs and never had to replace them.

1996\06\03@061711 by Chaipi Wijnbergen

flavicon
picon face
Hi,

I'm also using the DATARASE II erase to erase 16C74. My eraser has a
timer for up to 5 minutes. I can erase up to 4 16C74 at one time but I
need to start it twice, othewise the fuses are not blank.

Chaipi

                              \\\|///
                            \\  ~ ~  //
                             (  @ @  )
----------------------------oOOo-(_)-oOOo--------------------------------------
!                                                                             !
! Chaipi Wijnbergen                                                           !
! Electronics/Computer Eng. M.Sc.  Tel    : +972-8-9343079                    !
! Optical Imaging Laboratory       Fax    : +972-8-9344129                    !
! Brain Research Center            Email  : .....chaipiKILLspamspam.....tohu0.weizmann.ac.il       !
! Weizmann Institute of Science    URL    : http://www.weizmann.ac.il/~chaipi !
! Rehovot 76100 ISRAEL             IPhone : chaipi                            !
!                                                                             !
------------------------------------Oooo.--------------------------------------
                         .oooO     (   )
                         (   )      ) /
                          \ (      (_/
                           \_)


On Sun, 2 Jun 1996, Stuart Allman wrote:

{Quote hidden}

1996\06\03@134129 by Martin J. Maney

flavicon
face
On Mon, 3 Jun 1996, Chaipi Wijnbergen wrote:

> I'm also using the DATARASE II erase to erase 16C74. My eraser has a
> timer for up to 5 minutes. I can erase up to 4 16C74 at one time but I
> need to start it twice, othewise the fuses are not blank.

I've had a great many opportunities to test the erase times of th 16C73
with the timerless Datarase II, and after many trials and a moderate
amount of error I've settled on 8 minutes as a "never (yet) fails" erase
time.  If I had a built-in 5 minute timer I suspect I'd have ended up
exactly where you are (at 10 minutes).

1996\06\04@204002 by Dave Ritchie

flavicon
face
NEIL GANDLER wrote:
>
> Anyone know of a source of an inexpensive Eprom eraser. $50 is the best
> price I saw. Its almost the same price as the programmer. Thanks
>
>                 Neil Gandler

Chips on conductive foam inside of a UV toothbrush sterilizers
works well....

-- Dave Ritchie
derspamspam_OUTatl.hp.com


'2nd hand EPROM eraser needed'
1997\01\15@131716 by Pedro J Barrios
picon face
Hi:

I'm getting started with the programming of pics and since many of them
have eproms I will surely need an UV eraser. Does any one of
you have an extra one or one you don't use anymore. If so
please e-mail me with price and S/H costs.

P.D.: I apologize if this is not the right place to post this message.

Thanks,

                        Pedro J.  Barrios
                        pjbst12+@pitt.edu

1997\01\15@144535 by Leon Heller

flavicon
picon face
In message <Pine.GSO.3.95L.970115125738.7308B-
@spam@100000KILLspamspamunixs6.cis.pitt.edu>, Pedro J Barrios <pjbst12+@PITT.EDU> writes
>Hi:
>
>I'm getting started with the programming of pics and since many of them
>have eproms I will surely need an UV eraser. Does any one of
>you have an extra one or one you don't use anymore. If so
>please e-mail me with price and S/H costs.


It's very easy to make one. Just buy a 12" fluorescent fitting, and swap
the tube for a UV tube. I don't bother with a timer or a proper box - I
just use the timer on my watch and put a cardboard box over the thing
whilst it is on. With the EPROMs against the tube, they only take about
10 minutes to erase.

Leon
--
Leon Heller, G1HSM
KILLspamleonKILLspamspamlfheller.demon.co.uk
Tel: +44 (0) 118 947 1424 (home)
    +44 (0) 1344 385556 (work)

1997\01\15@151649 by Byron A Jeff

face picon face
>
> In message <Pine.GSO.3.95L.970115125738.7308B-
> RemoveME100000TakeThisOuTspamunixs6.cis.pitt.edu>, Pedro J Barrios <pjbst12+@PITT.EDU> writes
> >Hi:
> >
> >I'm getting started with the programming of pics and since many of them
> >have eproms I will surely need an UV eraser. Does any one of
> >you have an extra one or one you don't use anymore. If so
> >please e-mail me with price and S/H costs.
>
>
> It's very easy to make one. Just buy a 12" fluorescent fitting, and swap
> the tube for a UV tube. I don't bother with a timer or a proper box - I
> just use the timer on my watch and put a cardboard box over the thing
> whilst it is on. With the EPROMs against the tube, they only take about
> 10 minutes to erase.

I did soething simular with a 6in tube and a $7 flourescent fixture I got
from home depot. It was even battery powered so I can do erasures on
the go.

How ever scavenged the tube from another eraser with a bad ballast. The
real question is: where can you get UV tubes from and how much do they
cost?

BAJ

1997\01\15@165819 by TONY NIXON 54964

flavicon
picon face
I took the innards out of an old 12V fluro light, the kind that you
can use in an automotive environment. I bought a UV tube and
replaced the original tube with it. I placed some black static foam
inside a small wooden drawer and place the chip on this. The tube is
rested directly on the chip and is then powered by a 'Plug Pak'
powersupply.

This seems crude but it only cost me the price of the tube ($15) and
has worked well for over 5 years.

Tony


Just when I thought I knew it all,
I learned that I didn't.

1997\01\15@181912 by Leon Heller

flavicon
picon face
In message <spamBeGone199701152014.PAA15396spamBeGonespamgemini.cc.gatech.edu>, Byron A Jeff
<TakeThisOuTbyronEraseMEspamspam_OUTCC.GATECH.EDU> writes
{Quote hidden}

A very helpful little outfit in London (Service Trading Co., 57 Bridgman
Rd., Chiswick, W4 5BB. Tel: 0181 995 1560) stocks them (about #8 UK) and
sells a complete kit (less case) for #15 UK. They also stock the other
UV tubes for exposing PCBs. Not much use to those of you outside the UK,
unfortunately.

Leon
--
Leon Heller, G1HSM
leonEraseMEspam.....lfheller.demon.co.uk
Tel: +44 (0) 118 947 1424 (home)
    +44 (0) 1344 385556 (work)


'homemade eprom eraser'
1998\03\04@125306 by Robin Cocker
flavicon
face
Hi everyone,

I've bought a UV tube, a starter, and a choke in order to build a homemade
eprom eraser but am unsure as to how they should be wired together.

I'm told that the choke should be in series with the tube but there are
three connections on the choke.

Can anyone help?

Cheers,

Robin

1998\03\05@031001 by Pasi T Mustalahti

picon face
On Wed, 4 Mar 1998, Robin Cocker wrote:

> Hi everyone,
>
> I've bought a UV tube, a starter, and a choke in order to build a homemade
> eprom eraser but am unsure as to how they should be wired together.
>
> I'm told that the choke should be in series with the tube but there are
> three connections on the choke.
>
> Can anyone help?
>

PTM: If you kill youself with 220V, don't come to tell me !
Be carefull, UV makes uou blind and gives you skin cancer !

       in------tubetubetube-----choke---in
               tubetubetube
           |---tubetubetube--|
           |                 |
           ------starter-----


--------------------------------------------------------------------------
PTM, EraseMEpasi.mustalahtispamutu.fi, RemoveMEptmustaEraseMEspamEraseMEutu.fi, http://www.utu.fi/~ptmusta
Lab.ins. (mikrotuki) ATK-keskus/Mat.Luon.Tdk                    OH1HEK
Lab.engineer (PC support) Computer Center                       OI7234
Mail: Turun Yliopisto / Fysla, Vesilinnantie 5, 20014
Pt 02-3336669, FAX 02-3335632 (Pk 02-2387010, NMT 049-555577)
--------------------------------------------------------------------------

1998\03\05@034139 by Leon Heller

flavicon
picon face
In message <002b01bd4794$dfd74180$RemoveME16f0e783spam_OUTspamKILLspamcdrcc.lboro.ac.uk>, Robin
Cocker <RemoveMER.C.Cocker-94TakeThisOuTspamspamSTUDENT.LBORO.AC.UK> writes
>Hi everyone,
>
>I've bought a UV tube, a starter, and a choke in order to build a homemade
>eprom eraser but am unsure as to how they should be wired together.
>
>I'm told that the choke should be in series with the tube but there are
>three connections on the choke.
>
>Can anyone help?

I solve a lot of problems by just putting the UV tube in a standard
fluorescent fitting. I've checked mine, and the ballast only has two
connections. Perhaps yours has a ground connection. Try checking the
resistance of each lead to the case.

Leon
--
Leon Heller: EraseMEleonspamspamspamBeGonelfheller.demon.co.uk http://www.lfheller.demon.co.uk
Amateur Radio Callsign G1HSM    Tel: +44 (0) 118 947 1424
See http://www.lfheller.demon.co.uk/dds.htm for details of my AD9850
DDS system. See " "/diy_dsp.htm for a simple DIY DSP ADSP-2104 system.

'homemade eprom eraser - thanks'
1998\03\05@043053 by Robin Cocker

flavicon
face
Thanks for all the comments - very helpful. I'll let you all know how I get
on.

Cheers,

Robin

1998\03\05@115825 by Robin Cocker

flavicon
face
Hi all,

UV Eprom eraser works great exactly as many of you suggested. Total cost:
approx 19 UK pounds (about US$30). I'll scan the arrangement and email it to
anyone who requests it. The thing that had me puzzled were the three
connections on the choke (ballast). Two of these connections were actually
common.

I've simply mounted it all on a piece of MDF. I put the PIC (a 16C71) next
to the tube and put the whole lot in a drawer before turning it on.

I'll probably build a proper enclosure at a later date but just wanted to
get up and running quickly.

Thanks again for the help.

Regards,

Robin

1998\03\07@115537 by Tom Handley

picon face
  Robin, as others have mentioned, and I really want to emphasize this,
you can `seriously damage' your eyes by viewing the UV lights. I've seen a
lot of `hair-brained' schemes for erasing chips here but for the same price
and effort folks put into building their own erasers, you could buy a
commercial unit such as the Datarase II for around $40 or $50 with a timer.
I've been using it for several years and it is very reliable and erases up
to 4 PIC chips in under 15 mins.

  - Tom

At 04:34 PM 3/5/98 -0000, you wrote:
{Quote hidden}

1998\03\10@162520 by n Midgley

flavicon
face
Robin wrote:

>for the same price
>and effort folks put into building their own erasers, you could buy a
>commercial unit such as the Datarase II for around $40 or $50 with a timer.

I follow threads on the subject of UV erasers (especially home-made ones)
with some interest, since I'd like to start playing with PICs other than the
EE variety. Being a bit of a cheapskate, and a bodger, I always look for
ways to make stuff rather than buy it, where there seems to be a large
difference between the cost of the parts, and the completed item. I made a
UV exposure unit for making PCBs for 10 or 15GBPounds, which wouldn't
be any use to a 'professional' but which does for me.

However (you're not supposed to start sentences with 'however', are you?);
I'd cheerfully pay 25 or 30GBP for this Datarase thing, but over here in
Merrie England, people want 50GBP ($80-odd). Rather less attractive at
that price? Especially if an amateur-capable bodge can be done for
20GBP.

Having said that, if any English PICers know where I can find a UV eraser
at a realistic price, please say!

Regards

John M

1998\03\11@061455 by m00c0600

flavicon
face
John Midgley wrote:
{Quote hidden}

To make an eprom eraser, just get a set of 8-watt fluorescent-light
control gear (starter and ballast), a light-proof box, interlock switch
and
a  8W hard-UV tube (253.7 nM wavelength uncoated).  The tube is
electrically
the same as an 8w white tube, but it emits shortwave UV.   The circuit,
the light-proof-ness of the box, and the operation of the interlock sw
can be tested using a harmless white tube.  Remember that shortwave UV
is biologically damaging both to the eyes and skin, so avoid exposure.
This type of UV lamp works in the shortwave UV region, the most
effective
for erasing.  This is the same as the germicidal lamps used in water
treatment, etc.  Note that soft-UV tubes (used in sunbeds, etc) may
erase
devices slowly, but not very well.

BTW, a xenon strobe can be used to erase devices.  Dataman make a strobe
eraser, which works in seconds, and can be used with the device in the
programmer!. I keep meaning to build something like that myself!

BTW, I recently succeeded in erasing 150-odd mis-programmed OTP PIC's by
baking them.  Think they won't be reliable, though!!!!!!

Hope this of use....
jim ford

1998\03\11@073603 by Tom Handley

picon face
  John, the Datarase II is made by the Walling Co. They have two models one
of which adds a 2-8 minute timer. I find it typically takes around 10-15
mins to erase PICs. I have been able to use shorter times but I use 15 mins
to be sure. It erases EPROMs in around 3 mins. It comes with an AC adaptor
and a `little' owner's manual that has a very good explanation of EPROMs and
UV radiation. I'm not sure about shipping costs but you can order it in the
USA from:

     Digikey: 800-344-4539   http://www.digikey.com
              Datarase II without timer. P/N ER2. $39.95
              Datarase II with timer.    P/N ER3. $49.95

  - Tom

At 08:11 PM 3/10/98 +0000, John Midgley wrote:
>Robin wrote (Actually, I'm Tom ;-)
>
>>for the same price
>>and effort folks put into building their own erasers, you could buy a
>>commercial unit such as the Datarase II for around $40 or $50 with a timer.
>
[snip]
{Quote hidden}

1998\03\11@130911 by Bart Addis

flavicon
face
Jim,

(To Jim this is a duplicate, because my original response went directly to
him, instead of to the list.  So his response came to me.  Since this
information reflects what is sure to be a breakthrough in
otp-erasure-technology, (not to mention a new meaning of "burning chips"
:-) I wanted to get it back to the list.  Jim--will you please re-respond?)

>BTW, I recently succeeded in erasing 150-odd mis-programmed OTP PIC's by
>baking them.  Think they won't be reliable, though!!!!!!

Did you really, or are you just funnin'?

Bart


====Bart Addis====================================================
                            Software Engineering/Hardware Design
                            Voice 610-974-8870, Fax 8890
====RemoveMEbartKILLspamspamfast.net=================================================>


'[OT] ultra cheap uv EPROM eraser?'
1998\11\29@153620 by Clem Taylor
flavicon
face
I was about to order a $40 EPROM eraser for my PIC16C77/JW based project,
but with the new PIC16F877 coming out early next year, I won't have much
use for the eraser in the near future.  So, I was wondering if someone
could recommend a cheap way to erase EPROMs, or a dirt cheap eraser?  I'm
only going to be working with two chips, one in the eraser and one in
program/debug.  The eraser I was looking at was the DATARASE IIAC, from
Walling Co., sold by DigiKey for $39.95. I was hoping to spend <$20.
Any ideas?

             Many thanks,
             Clem

1998\11\29@161017 by Vance Gloster

flavicon
face
In ancient times (during the 1980s) I used EPROM memory chips like 2732s.
For these chips the sun had enough UV to erase them if you left them
outside for a few hours (and it was sunny).  Have not yet tried this with
PIC windowed EPROM parts, but it is worth a try, and VERY cheap.

Vance Gloster                Nothing that is worth knowing can be
vanceSTOPspamspamspam_OUTeni.net                                taught. -Oscar Wilde


{Original Message removed}

1998\11\29@163131 by Peter L. Peres

picon face
On Sun, 29 Nov 1998, Vance Gloster wrote:

> In ancient times (during the 1980s) I used EPROM memory chips like 2732s.
> For these chips the sun had enough UV to erase them if you left them
> outside for a few hours (and it was sunny).  Have not yet tried this with
> PIC windowed EPROM parts, but it is worth a try, and VERY cheap.

;) Apparently it helps a lot if you live down under (the ozone hole).

Peter

1998\11\29@212419 by Brian Striggow

flavicon
face
On Sun, 29 Nov 1998, Clem Taylor wrote:

> I was about to order a $40 EPROM eraser for my PIC16C77/JW based project,

> Walling Co., sold by DigiKey for $39.95. I was hoping to spend <$20.
>

I had this same question a month ago.  I bought a G15T8 flourescant lamp
which fits in a standard flourescant lamp fixture.  Doesn't save a lot of
money though as the lamp is ~$20.  Also you'll need to come up with
shielding, as we're definitely talking about a potentially dangerous
device.  On the upside, erase times seem to be very
low (have erased as little as 2minutes, and still pushing the envelope).

bcs

'PICLIST Digest - EPROM eraser'
1998\11\30@095342 by miked

flavicon
face
> I was about to order a $40 EPROM eraser for my PIC16C77/JW based project,
> but with the new PIC16F877 coming out early next year, I won't have much
> use for the eraser in the near future.  So, I was wondering if someone
> could recommend a cheap way to erase EPROMs, or a dirt cheap eraser?  I'm
> only going to be working with two chips, one in the eraser and one in
> program/debug.  The eraser I was looking at was the DATARASE IIAC, from
> Walling Co., sold by DigiKey for $39.95. I was hoping to spend <$20.
> Any ideas?
I picked up a DATAERASE at a hamfest for $4. It was set up for 2 24 pin
EPROMs. I had
to cut .3 inch slots for PICs. It consists of a switch,fuse,bulb and
mylar cap all in series
across the 110V line.

'[OT] ultra cheap uv EPROM eraser?'
1998\11\30@153326 by Russell McMahon

picon face
Some lighting suppliers here (GTE Sylvania?) have a low wattage
(6watt?) UV tube for germicidal use shaped in a U. This is made to be
run with a ballast but can be run with a lightbulb in series instead.
very cheap and nasty (and it works). The same trick MAY work with low
wattage fluorescents - they would certainly run but may not strike
easily.

Nowadays I use a standard single tube fluorescent holder cut down in
length to fit a 20? watt UV fluro. Very rapid for the devices I use
it with (not PICs).


regards

           Russell McMahon

From: Clem Taylor <spamBeGonectaylorSTOPspamspamEraseMESRTC.COM>

>I was about to order a $40 EPROM eraser for my PIC16C77/JW based
project,
>but with the new PIC16F877 coming out early next year, I won't have
much
>use for the eraser in the near future.  So, I was wondering if
someone
>could recommend a cheap way to erase EPROMs, or a dirt cheap eraser?
I'm
>only going to be working with two chips, one in the eraser and one
in
>program/debug.  The eraser I was looking at was the DATARASE IIAC,
from
>Walling Co., sold by DigiKey for $39.95. I was hoping to spend <$20.
>Any ideas?


'[PICLIST] EPROM ERASER'
2001\05\09@052833 by Arpit
flavicon
face
Why not just use the sun?
--------------------------
He Who Laughs Last Thinks Slowest.
------------------------------------

--
http://www.piclist.com hint: The PICList is archived three different
ways.  See http://www.piclist.com/#archives for details.


2001\05\09@110338 by Also-Antal Csaba

flavicon
face
Arpit wrote:
>
> Why not just use the sun?

If you have enough time, why not ;)

udv
Csaba

--
http://www.piclist.com hint: The PICList is archived three different
ways.  See http://www.piclist.com/#archives for details.


2001\05\09@181259 by Nigel Goodwin

flavicon
face
In message <KILLspam4v3iftoslrstha3rt334n3oq0tu6hqsqntspamBeGonespam4ax.com>, Arpit
<EraseMEarpitspamEraseMEOPTUSHOME.COM.AU> writes
>Why not just use the sun?

I live in England! - we never see the sun :-).

--

Nigel.

       /--------------------------------------------------------------\
       | Nigel Goodwin   | Internet : @spam@nigelg@spam@spamspam_OUTlpilsley.co.uk           |
       | Lower Pilsley   | Web Page : http://www.lpilsley.co.uk       |
       | Chesterfield    | Official site for Shin Ki and New Spirit   |
       | England         |                 Ju Jitsu                   |
       \--------------------------------------------------------------/

--
http://www.piclist.com hint: The PICList is archived three different
ways.  See http://www.piclist.com/#archives for details.


2001\05\09@192355 by Barry Gershenfeld

picon face
>>Why not just use the sun?
>
>I live in England! - we never see the sun :-).
>Nigel.

FWIW I actually tried this some time ago.  (Using 2732 EPROMs,
if that tells you just *how long ago* it was.  Anyway, after
a few hours they did not erase, and some of them no longer
worked.  My best guess was they got too hot out there in the
noonday sun.

I also recall there was a paragraph in the data sheets that
talked about erasing and exposure to UV doses.  That it
would erase in sunlight after a week and under common
fluorescent lights in 3 years.  For that reason I never
covered the windows.   Granted today's chips have a lot
smaller features which might erase faster and more importantly
a PIC isn't a memory chip, it's a whole computer. As someone
pointed out, light can bias the circuits up funny and for
that reason you should cover the window.

Barry

--
http://www.piclist.com hint: The PICList is archived three different
ways.  See http://www.piclist.com/#archives for details.


2001\05\09@213542 by Alexandre Domingos F. Souza

flavicon
face
>In message <spamBeGone4v3iftoslrstha3rt334n3oq0tu6hqsqntspamKILLspam4ax.com>, Arpit
><.....arpitspam_OUTspamOPTUSHOME.COM.AU> writes
>>Why not just use the sun?
>I live in England! - we never see the sun :-).

       Come to Brazil, we never see clouds :oP

--
http://www.piclist.com hint: The PICList is archived three different
ways.  See http://www.piclist.com/#archives for details.



'[EE]: bill checker=cheap eprom eraser?'
2001\07\11@195337 by David Queen
flavicon
face
MPJA.com has a black light bill changer for less than $4 US. Could this be used to erase windowed PIC's?
If not any erasers out there CHEAP?

--
http://www.piclist.com hint: PICList Posts must start with ONE topic:
[PIC]:,[SX]:,[AVR]: ->uP ONLY! [EE]:,[OT]: ->Other [BUY]:,[AD]: ->Ads


2001\07\12@020114 by Jinx

face picon face
> MPJA.com has a black light bill changer for less than $4 US.
> Could this be used to erase windowed PIC's? If not any
> erasers out there CHEAP?

(Reply fwd for Alice Campbell)

The answer is "probably not in your lifetime".  The germicidal
lamps specialize in UVC, down around 230 nm.  The bill checkers
use a violet led that's around 350 nm, which is UVA.  not nearly
enough energy to wipe them.  too bad, a cheap UVC LED would
be nice.

--
http://www.piclist.com hint: The list server can filter out subtopics
(like ads or off topics) for you. See http://www.piclist.com/#topics


2001\07\12@043913 by Alan B. Pearce

face picon face
> MPJA.com has a black light bill changer for less than $4 US.
> Could this be used to erase windowed PIC's? If not any
> erasers out there CHEAP?

The problem with these is they use a tube with a black filter on them so
only the longer wavelength UV is radiated. This is fine for making banknotes
glow, but not high enough energy to get the EPROM's to erase.

Change the tube for one without any phosphor, and build a case around it,
preferably with a safety switch so the UV is not on when the case is open.

--
http://www.piclist.com hint: The list server can filter out subtopics
(like ads or off topics) for you. See http://www.piclist.com/#topics


'[EE]: cheap eprom eraser?'
2001\07\12@044314 by Roman Black

flavicon
face
David Queen wrote:
>
> MPJA.com has a black light bill changer for less than $4 US. Could this be used to erase windowed PIC's?
> If not any erasers out there CHEAP?


Hi David, I can't say about the one you mentioned,
but I bought a very cheap AC night light and just
plugged a UVC germicidal bulb into it.

The nightlight only had a couple of caps and a diode,
the info is here:
http://centauri.ezy.net.au/~fastvid/tube4w.htm

I have been using this as is with the window PICs
blu-tacked  to the UV tube, (I know, I know!)
and for the moment it's working great. Under 5
minutes for a reliable erase.
-Roman

--
http://www.piclist.com hint: The list server can filter out subtopics
(like ads or off topics) for you. See http://www.piclist.com/#topics



'[OT]: want EPROM Eraser Case'
2001\10\12@152122 by Chetan Bhargava
flavicon
face
Anyone knows where I can buy EPROM eraser case for a 4" tube? Or anyone has
a bad eprom eraser that I can use for case?

Thanks.

--
http://www.piclist.com#nomail Going offline? Don't AutoReply us!
email TakeThisOuTlistserv.....spamTakeThisOuTmitvma.mit.edu with SET PICList DIGEST in the body


2001\10\13@182303 by Alexandre Domingos F. Souza

flavicon
face
>Anyone knows where I can buy EPROM eraser case for a 4" tube? Or anyone has
>a bad eprom eraser that I can use for case?

       Have you tried doing one with wood?


---8<---Corte aqui---8<----

Alexandre Souza
TakeThisOuTtaitoKILLspamspamspamterra.com.br
http://planeta.terra.com.br/lazer/pinball/

---8<---Corte aqui---8<----

--
http://www.piclist.com hint: To leave the PICList
.....piclist-unsubscribe-requestspamRemoveMEmitvma.mit.edu


2001\10\13@185503 by Chetan Bhargava

flavicon
face
Good Idea! I'll drop by Home Depot to get some. Haven't done any woodwork
though!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alexandre Domingos F. Souza" <RemoveMEtaitospamspamBeGoneTERRA.COM.BR>
To: <spamBeGonePICLIST@spam@spamspam_OUTMITVMA.MIT.EDU>
Sent: Saturday, October 13, 2001 3:24 PM
Subject: Re: [OT]: want EPROM Eraser Case


> >Anyone knows where I can buy EPROM eraser case for a 4" tube? Or anyone
has
{Quote hidden}

--
http://www.piclist.com hint: To leave the PICList
RemoveMEpiclist-unsubscribe-requestEraseMEspamspam_OUTmitvma.mit.edu


2001\10\13@190333 by Alexandre Domingos F. Souza

flavicon
face
>Good Idea! I'll drop by Home Depot to get some. Haven't done any woodwork

       Buy some THIN sheets of timber (about 0.5CM), that are easy to cut with a scrollsaw or like. And use glue or little square blocks of timber to glue/screw the panels toghether. I think that with your creativity, You'll do a great work ;o)


---8<---Corte aqui---8<----

Alexandre Souza
@spam@taitoRemoveMEspamEraseMEterra.com.br
http://planeta.terra.com.br/lazer/pinball/

---8<---Corte aqui---8<----

--
http://www.piclist.com hint: To leave the PICList
EraseMEpiclist-unsubscribe-requestspam@spam@mitvma.mit.edu


'[PIC]: [OT]: want EPROM Eraser Case'
2001\10\13@194212 by Chetan Bhargava

flavicon
face
Thanks! :-)  My homebrew eraser started from Home Depot. They had a nice
tube light with 4" Fluorescent tube. I tried to find a germicidal tube but
they were expensive. Later I found a source in Southern Cal and they sold me
a tube.

The tube worked fine with the light I bought from Home Depot.

While flipping through Microchip Appnotes I found 1_001 for replacing
electromech timers with 12c508. I built that hardware but the software had
lot of bugs. I have posted the corrected code on my website
http://www.bhargavaz.net/nvram/timer.html

I used to use a cardboard box to cover the lamp when it was on but now I
have a crawling baby in my house so I needed a box.


Thanks.
{Original Message removed}

'[OT]: want EPROM Eraser Case'
2001\10\15@080636 by Dennis Hoskins

flavicon
face
Why not go by a cigar store and "bum" a empty cigar box. Many are made of
wood and the size should be about right.

{Original Message removed}

2001\10\16@202428 by Alexandre Domingos F. Souza

flavicon
face
>Why not go by a cigar store and "bum" a empty cigar box. Many are made of
>wood and the size should be about right.

       Yep! Nice option!!!


---8<---Corte aqui---8<----

Alexandre Souza
@spam@taitospam_OUTspam.....terra.com.br
http://planeta.terra.com.br/lazer/pinball/

---8<---Corte aqui---8<----

--
http://www.piclist.com hint: The PICList is archived three different
ways.  See http://www.piclist.com/#archives for details.


More... (looser matching)
- Last day of these posts
- In 2001 , 2002 only
- Today
- New search...