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'[PIC] Success (Was:- Very Newbie -Progress!)'
PICkit 2 is slightly difficult to built. However I think the game is actually
for the LPC Low Pin Count demo card which is bundled with the
more complete package format of PICkit 2 bundle. LPC demo board
is really easy to build by oneself. Go to Microchip's PICkit 2
page and download the schematics of the LPC demo board
and you can build it by yourself.
You do not need the PICkit 2 programmer since you have a better
On 10/12/05, Ed Edmondson <bresnan.net> wrote: dredwinphd
> It's just as bunch of LEDs and a couple of switches, not ?
Yes, it is. 4 LEDs on PORTC 0-3 (although the program can easily be
extended to use up to 8 LEDs and they can easily be moved to different
ports), 1 potentiometer on an analog input (if you don't have an
analog input, you might need some more trickery there in order to
sample the state of the potentiometer. It is possible with a digital
input, it just involves some more code), and a button.
> Build a Pikit2 ? Why ?
> You just have to connect a few leds and switches
> according the Maarten's application.
Yes, you only need something similar to the DEMO board. And I only
used the potentiometer because the demo board had one, and I wanted to
include it. If you are going to build this application from scratch,
you might be better off using 4 buttons (or as many as you want LEDs),
which would make repeating the sequence easier. In that case you would
have debounce the buttons, though, either through hardware (0.1uF
capacitor and 100 KOhm resistor on a schmidt trigger input) or
software (measuring multiple times until the result is stable).
> But have you searched the Microchip site ?
> The schematics is in the "PICkitTM 2
> Microcontroller Programmer USER?S GUIDE"...
Just look at the Low Pin-Count Development Board PDF, it has the
schematic in the back.
> An LCD would be great. Just point the way. Sounds like a good way to debug
It is best to start with a Hitachi 44780 compatible character display.
As you're using a 16F877(A), you don't really have to worry running
out of pins, so you could connect the full eight data lines, R/S, R/W
(although initially you might wish to do write only and just wait
160us between each byte) and E. I found http://www.myke.com/lcd.htm to
be a good reference, though avoid reading his code. It does include
the sequence needed to initialize the display.
I got my 2*20 display for $9 at glitchbuster.com (even though it isn't
listed on the website, he might still have one) but they should be
available almost anywhere. Initially you might want to avoid the 4*40
displays as they are a bit more tricky to control: they have E1 and E2
(controller wise they are two separate LCD displays). A backlight
makes them more expensive and a lot more power hungry (can go up to
900 mA for certain back lights).
Alan B. Pearce
>> An LCD would be great. Just point the way. Sounds
>> like a good way to debug something.
>It is best to start with a Hitachi 44780 compatible character display.
You can often get these at very reasonable price on eBay. May have a strange
shaped PCB because they are left over from a production run, or from some
defunct manufacturer. Make sure you get a datasheet with it if you go this
route. Searching for "lcd character" found a heap of 44780 ones in ebay.com.
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