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'[PIC] Incubator Controller - Battery Backup & Curr'
2011\11\11@203219 by Grant Tudor

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By way of background -  I built a small incubator controller for my father
a few years ago. It uses a PIC 628A and monitors the temperature inside the
incubator using a DS18B20. Two heating elements (basically ceramic light
globes) are turned on / off via a solid state relay. A simple 2 x 16 LCD
displays the current temperature and target temperature. Last year I added
an under temperature alarm as both of the ceramic elements blew at the same
time (as the do not emit light it is quite possible that one of the ceramic
elements was blown for some time and then the other blew).

As part of the "upgrade program" for this year I am trying to add some
additional functionality:

1. My father lives in an area that has occasional power outages so I would
like to add a simple battery back up that allows the monitoring of the
supply voltage. Intent is to provide an audible alarm if supply voltage is
interrupted (and perhaps an indication of how long it has been off). I want
the system to be a simple as possible so I was thinking of some sort of
NiCads on a trickle charge? I have seen some real cheap LiIon batteries on
DealExtreme etc but the charging requirements seem to be a lot more
complex. Is there a simple option for these types of cells?

2. Although there are two heating elements, there is currently no simple
way of determining if both are working. I was thinking of some sort of
current drawn monitoring circuit that could visually indicate that the
heating element is working. Another option may be to put another
temperature sensor on each element but I was hoping for a simpler option.
The heating elements are 240VAC / 60 W.

The whole controller fits into a small box about 150mm x 75mm so there is
not much room for additional hardware

2011\11\11@210919 by RussellMc

face picon face
>  ...  NiCads  ... LiIon batteries ... charging requirements.

> ... current drawn monitoring circuit that could visually indicate that the
> heating element is working.

> The heating elements are 240VAC / 60 W.

That was more comment than questions.
Comment is good :-)
LiIon are extremely easy to float.
Supply via a current limited voltage source.
Current limit is set to C/1 max ie mA max = mAh capacity of cell.
Constant voltage source is set to 4.1 V or 4.0V for a single LiIon cell.
Real world equipment uses 4.2V to get all possible capacity but then
you need end point termination based on current and temperature
compensation. Using say 4.0V will be nicely gentle on cell and extend
life.
NiCd are robust but not spoken of in polite circles these days due to
Cadmium content. OK to use if disposed of properly.
NimH are OK if kept topped.
Self discharge rate is high.
LSD = low self discharge are getting very good.
LSD:  NEW version of Sanyo Eneloops are excellent.
LSD:  GP Recyko are at least very good and may be excellent.
NimH can be charged to end point of say 1.35V to1.4V per cell with a
sharp cutoff voltage. Zener is not sharp enough.
___________

A circuit is always useful - even if "apparently" trivial.

There are many ways to monitor current including eg series current
sense resistors, current transformer, hall sensor, proximal thermistor
heat sensor etc.

An "easy enough" flexible method is to place the diode side of an opto
coupler in a diode bridge.

Load circuit connects to  AC terminals of bridge
Resistor in series with opto input
Say 3v3 or 5v6 zener across bridge DC terminals.
Opto driven from zener.

When element runs the zener has DC volts across it  and opto is driven.
With 2 elements working you now have 2 isolated floating outputs to
use any way you wish. Any of LEDs, alarms, AND for one element detect,
OR for at least one element going, ... all of these. Cost per element
is opto, zener, 2 x resistor plus whatever processing you decide on.

Failed OC zener will probably destroy opto BUT this will trigger alarm.

With 240 VAC 60W element current is 250 mA.
As described above zener at say 5v6 dissipates 5.6V x 0.25A  = 1.4W so
not trivial.
3V3 dissipates 0.8W+ so hardly better.
Not a vast amount of energy but worth noting.

Using transistor be junction as turn n sensor gives say 1V x 0.25A =
0.25W. This can still drive an opto and reduces overall power.

Using opamp as current sense resistor monitor can use ~= 0 power.
_________________

Note that Hall cell can give you isolated current sensing in a wire.
So can current transformer.
Questions ...?


     Russell McMahon






>  ...  NiCads  ... LiIon batteries ... charging requirements.

> ... current drawn monitoring circuit that could visually indicate that the
> heating element is working. Another option may be to put another
> temperature sensor on each element but I was hoping for a simpler option.
> The heating elements are 240VAC / 60 W.

2011\11\12@010929 by Sergey Dryga

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Grant Tudor <grant.tudor <at> gmail.com> writes:

> incubator using a DS18B20. Two heating elements (basically ceramic light
> globes) are turned on / off via a solid state relay. A simple 2 x 16 LCD

> 2. Although there are two heating elements, there is currently no simple
> way of determining if both are working. I was thinking of some sort of
> current drawn monitoring circuit that could visually indicate that the
> heating element is working. Another option may be to put another

Since these are light globes, you can use photo sensors such as phototransitor,
or even a CdS cell that would "look" at one lamp using proper light shielding. If this works, it's hard to beat the price and simplicity of that arrangement.  
Sergey Dryga
http://beaglerobotics.com

2011\11\12@013207 by Grant Tudor

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Sergey,

Sorry but I wasn't clear in my description - they are ceramic elements
which fit into an Edison Screw light fitting but they don't give off light
- just heat. Something like these:

http://www.amazingamazon.com.au/ceramic-globe-light-heat-emitter.html

I was looking at adding a couple of DS18B20's (as they are a 1 Wire device
I could probably add a couple of more onto the 1 Wire bus) but thought I
would see if anyone had other ideas.

Regards,

Grant

On Sat, Nov 12, 2011 at 5:09 PM, Sergey Dryga <spam_OUTsergeyTakeThisOuTspamdryga.us> wrote:

{Quote hidden}

>

2011\11\12@015303 by Grant Tudor

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Russell,

Thanks for your suggestions. A quick look suggests that CR123A LiIon
batteries are cheap and plentiful. There are plenty of 800mAh - 1000mAh
size on eBay for a couple of $ each (although I am unsure of the quality).
A couple in series (although there doesn't seem to be many battery holders
for this size of cell) and a LDO regulator should be able to provide the 5V
I need. Will put together a test circuit and see how I go.

Still working through your suggestions on the current monitoring for the
heating elements.

Regards,

Grant

On Sat, Nov 12, 2011 at 1:08 PM, RussellMc <.....apptechnzKILLspamspam@spam@gmail.com> wrote:

{Quote hidden}

>

2011\11\12@041056 by RussellMc

face picon face
> Thanks for your suggestions. A quick look suggests that CR123A LiIon
> batteries are cheap and plentiful. There are plenty of 800mAh - 1000mAh
> size on eBay for a couple of $ each (although I am unsure of the quality)..

Be sure they are LiIon rechargeable and not Lithium primary cells.
Gargoyles ...
Yes, there seem to be plenty that sound like they are correct.

Several discussion groups say ... LiIon ..ebay ... No!!!...

Tenergy are well spoken of.
Thy are a badge engineer-er (as indeed are most) but seem to supply
quality product.
Dearer than some at $7.39 !!!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tenergy-CR123-Rechargeable-900mAh-Li-Ion-RCR123-Battery-/370419933130


This seller seems to be offering 4 x CR123 LiIon for $US5.37
High quality they say.
But. of course.
India?
     http://www.ebay.in/itm/4X-3-0V-CR123A-CR123-17335-Rechargeable-Battery-1000mAh-/130546420502

Many
http://www.nextag.com/rechargeable-cr123-battery/stores-html

I'd have though a LiPoly or LiIon  prismatic with solder leads may be
easier to handle.



  Russel

2011\11\12@102716 by Jim Higgins

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Charging LiIon cells in series is dangerous unless proper precautions are taken.  These include a charge controller that controls the voltage of each cell individually.  Please do some serious research before taking this course.




Received from Grant Tudor at 11/12/11 06:53 UTC:

{Quote hidden}

2011\11\12@121054 by Sergey Dryga

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Grant Tudor <grant.tudor <at> gmail.com> writes:

>
> Sergey,
>
> Sorry but I wasn't clear in my description - they are ceramic elements
> which fit into an Edison Screw light fitting but they don't give off light
> - just heat. Something like these:

Thanks for the description Grant.  In this case, a current sensor/opto isolator: put a 10 Ohm 1W resistor in series with the load.  Voltage drop on it will
provide drive for LED of an optoisolator.  In parallel to this resistor connect
LED from opto (probably need a small series resistor too) and just a regular LED
connected in opposite direction to the opto LED, to make sure no LED has too
much reverse voltage.  The regular LED will also provide a visual indicator of
the heating element working.  
Sergey

2011\11\12@150919 by Isaac Marino Bavaresco

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Em 12/11/2011 15:10, Sergey Dryga escreveu:
> Grant Tudor <grant.tudor <at> gmail.com> writes:
>
>> Sergey,
>>
>> Sorry but I wasn't clear in my description - they are ceramic elements
>> which fit into an Edison Screw light fitting but they don't give off light
>> - just heat. Something like these:
> Thanks for the description Grant.  In this case, a current sensor/opto isolator:
> put a 10 Ohm 1W resistor in series with the load.  Voltage drop on it will
> provide drive for LED of an optoisolator.  In parallel to this resistor connect
> LED from opto (probably need a small series resistor too) and just a regular LED
> connected in opposite direction to the opto LED, to make sure no LED has too
> much reverse voltage.  The regular LED will also provide a visual indicator of
> the heating element working.  
>
> Sergey


A current transformer is also very simple to implement and won't waste
any power.
You can build your own with a toroidal ferrite core found in computer
PSUs (around 1cm diameter), some insulated wire (around 28AWG) and an 1k
resistor.
The main advantages are that it doesn't waste power and it provides
electrical isolation.

Simply wrap four turns of wire in the toroidal core and connect its two
ends to the resistor. Insert one wire that goes to the heater in the
toroid's hole (just one leg, not the two wires).
When current passes through the heater a sinusoidal voltage will appear
between the two terminals of the resistor. It is easy to rectify and
filter it and feed to the MCU.
If the voltage is too low, simply use a resistor with higher value.


Best regards,

Isaac

2011\11\12@153657 by Grant Tudor

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Isaac,

Thanks - I will give that idea a try. I have some old PSUs in the shed
somewhere......

Grant

{Quote hidden}

>

2011\11\12@155457 by Grant Tudor

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Jim,

I did some reading last night and came to the same conclusion. Most of the
cell balancing charging circuits use purpose built controllers and whilst
not out of the question, the charging circuit is likely to quickly become
complex than the rest of the incubator controller. Might have to reconsider
my choice of battery types - perhaps NiMH is a better option (noting
Russell's earlier comments)? I had hoped that there were a few "standard"
implementations of battery back up for 5V PICs - it had struck me that this
might have been a common requirement. Might have to spend a bit more time
on Google.

Grant

On Sun, Nov 13, 2011 at 2:27 AM, Jim Higgins <HigginsJspamKILLspamsc.rr.com> wrote:

>
> Charging LiIon cells in series is dangerous unless proper precautions are
> taken.  These include a charge controller that controls the voltage of each
> cell individually.  Please do some serious research before taking this
> course.
>
>

2011\11\12@164229 by Sergey Dryga

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face
Isaac Marino Bavaresco <isaacbavaresco <at> yahoo.com.br> writes:

> > put a 10 Ohm 1W resistor in series with the load.  Voltage drop on it will
> > provide drive for LED of an optoisolator.  In parallel to this resistor
> A current transformer is also very simple to implement and won't waste
> any power.

Isaac,
as a general statement this is correct.  in this particular application though,
the power on the resistor will be generated only when the heater is on,
therefore, any additional heat (about 0.63W, compared to 60W of the heater
power) will not be wasted, but applied to the intended purpose of the device. Looks like win-win to me.  
The way you described current transformer looks simple enough, and is probably
as cheap as LED, I will have to keep it in mind for future use.

Sergey Dryga
http://beaglerobotics.com

2011\11\12@193430 by Isaac Marino Bavaresco

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Em 12/11/2011 18:54, Grant Tudor escreveu:
> Jim,
>
> I did some reading last night and came to the same conclusion. Most of the
> cell balancing charging circuits use purpose built controllers and whilst
> not out of the question, the charging circuit is likely to quickly become
> complex than the rest of the incubator controller. Might have to reconsider
> my choice of battery types - perhaps NiMH is a better option (noting
> Russell's earlier comments)? I had hoped that there were a few "standard"
> implementations of battery back up for 5V PICs - it had struck me that this
> might have been a common requirement. Might have to spend a bit more time
> on Google.


How about sealed lead acid? They are very rugged, accept float-charging
and are cheap and easy to find.


Isaac

2011\11\12@194018 by Isaac Marino Bavaresco

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face
Em 12/11/2011 19:42, Sergey Dryga escreveu:
> Isaac Marino Bavaresco <isaacbavaresco <at> yahoo.com.br> writes:
>
>>> put a 10 Ohm 1W resistor in series with the load.  Voltage drop on it will
>>> provide drive for LED of an optoisolator.  In parallel to this resistor
>> A current transformer is also very simple to implement and won't waste
>> any power.
> Isaac,
>
> as a general statement this is correct.  in this particular application though,
> the power on the resistor will be generated only when the heater is on,
> therefore, any additional heat (about 0.63W, compared to 60W of the heater
> power) will not be wasted, but applied to the intended purpose of the device.


But then you would have to put the resistor together with the heater
element, with wires running to the board.
Moreover, you would need to provide mechanical support for the resistor
and insulation for the additional electrical connections.


> Looks like win-win to me.  
>
> The way you described current transformer looks simple enough, and is probably
> as cheap as LED, I will have to keep it in mind for future use.

It *IS* simple, and the toroid can be mounted to the board, with the
wires that pass through it giving mechanical support.


Isaac

2011\11\13@043501 by Grant Tudor

picon face
Isaac,

Found an old PSU and pulled out the ferrite core. I set up a 60W light
globe as a test rig. With 5 turns I got about 3mV peak to peak. 25 turns
produced about 100mV peak to peak. A bit less than I expected but the
concept works. I think I need to get a bit more voltage though - will try
out a few more variations over the next few days.

Grant

On Sun, Nov 13, 2011 at 7:36 AM, Grant Tudor <.....grant.tudorKILLspamspam.....gmail.com> wrote:

{Quote hidden}

>> -

2011\11\13@044614 by KPL

picon face
>
> 2. Although there are two heating elements, there is currently no simple
> way of determining if both are working. I was thinking of some sort of
> current drawn monitoring circuit that could visually indicate that the
> heating element is working. Another option may be to put another
> temperature sensor on each element but I was hoping for a simpler option.
> The heating elements are 240VAC / 60 W.

Probably you can do it in software, measuring how fast temperature is
rising when heater is switched on? If it's not rising fast enough,
that would clearly mean there is something wrong with heaters. With
controller powered from back-up source, that would raise an alarm also
when heaters have no power.

-- KP

2011\11\13@050631 by Grant Tudor

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KPL,

I was thinking along those lines a while ago. There were a couple of issues:

1.     The heating rate depends very much on the ambient temperature and
the number of eggs in the incubator (effectively the thermal mass). That
being said, my father's is located in a reasonably (temperature) stable
location so it may be possible to calibrate the system (the PID type
controllers do this).

2.     I also have a brooder that use a similar 2 x heating element
arrangement although the temperature controller is a cheap eBay unit which
keeps the temperature within 1C or so (the controllers sell for $20 - $25
on eBay). Once the eggs are hatched the acceptable temperature variation is
much greater so these controllers are OK. I was hoping to use a current
drawn circuit to light a LED to give a simple visual indication that the
element is working in these brooders.

Good idea though and more food for thought!!

Regards,

Grant

On Sun, Nov 13, 2011 at 8:46 PM, KPL <EraseMEkpl.listesspam_OUTspamTakeThisOuTgmail.com> wrote:

{Quote hidden}

>

2011\11\13@064348 by Isaac Marino Bavaresco

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Try using a resistor with higher value.


Isaac



Em 13/11/2011 07:35, Grant Tudor escreveu:
{Quote hidden}

>>> --

2011\11\13@064823 by Isaac Marino Bavaresco

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Em 13/11/2011 07:46, KPL escreveu:
>> 2. Although there are two heating elements, there is currently no simple
>> way of determining if both are working. I was thinking of some sort of
>> current drawn monitoring circuit that could visually indicate that the
>> heating element is working. Another option may be to put another
>> temperature sensor on each element but I was hoping for a simpler option..
>> The heating elements are 240VAC / 60 W.
> Probably you can do it in software, measuring how fast temperature is
> rising when heater is switched on? If it's not rising fast enough,
> that would clearly mean there is something wrong with heaters. With
> controller powered from back-up source, that would raise an alarm also
> when heaters have no power.


A simple "low temperature alarm" may also help. If the controller cannot
raise the temperature to the set-point then there is a problem that
needs to be cared of, be it a blown heating element or an open door...


Isaac

2011\11\13@235939 by Grant Tudor

picon face
Issac,

Should have mentioned the voltage was measured using a CRO so I guess the
resistance was about 1M ohm.

Grant

On Sun, Nov 13, 2011 at 10:43 PM, Isaac Marino Bavaresco <
@spam@isaacbavarescoKILLspamspamyahoo.com.br> wrote:

{Quote hidden}

>

2011\11\14@001202 by Grant Tudor

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Issac,

There is a low temperature alarm hence the desire to have a battery back up
so that the unit can sense when there is a mains failure. This works well
if both elements have failed or the door is left ajat etc as you mentioned.

The idea of the current drawn indication is to show that elements are
working (or not). The incubator has two heating elements for redundancy.
Either is sufficient to heat the incubator to the required temperature. The
problem is that it may be possible for one element to sop working and you
would not notice it because there is no indication that it is working or
not. The second element would then take over the heating of the incubator
but the redundancy is no longer there. If the second element stops working
then there is a potential catastrophe. If there is still power, the low
temperature alarm will sound but if may be a while before anyone is around
to hear it. If I had an indication that one of the element had stopped
working then the element could be replaced and redundancy restored.

I like the ferrite core concept as it is simple, easy to retrofit and
provides a level of isolation between the LV circuit and the 240VAC. I just
need to get the voltage up to a sufficiently high level to be workable. I
could then either monitor the voltage using the PIC directly, or use the
voltage to light a LED to provide a visual indication that the element is
working.

R/-

Grant

On Sun, Nov 13, 2011 at 10:47 PM, Isaac Marino Bavaresco <
RemoveMEisaacbavarescoTakeThisOuTspamyahoo.com.br> wrote:

{Quote hidden}

>

2011\11\14@002706 by Jim Higgins

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Received from Grant Tudor at 11/14/11 04:59 UTC:

>Issac,
>
>Should have mentioned the voltage was measured using a CRO so I guess the
>resistance was about 1M ohm.
>
>Grant


Whoa!  You don't want to ever run a current transformer without a resistor that loads the output.  This is so important that commercial current transformers that don't have a built in resistor will have a shorting strap to connect across the coil whenever the burden resistor isn't present.  And we're probably talking a resistor in the range of 100 - 1000 ohms in this case, not 1 megohm.  You can see some VERY high voltages in an unloaded curent transformer... so high that it can arc over and damage itself or present a shock hazard to personnel.

Not a significant problem with only a few turns on the transformer, but typical ones have many, many turns and then the range is set using an appropriate burden (load) resistor.

Google on things like "current transformer burden resistor" for more detail.  You don't have to just try various resistors; you can calculate the proper value.  Matter of fact you have to know the turns ration and calculate the burden resistor based on the expected current you'll be measuring if you want to have an accurate reading.  Here's a short article that covers all the basics quite well.
http://powerelectronics.com/mag/power_exploring_current_transformer/

2011\11\14@055645 by Isaac Marino Bavaresco

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Em 14/11/2011 03:12, Grant Tudor escreveu:
{Quote hidden}

You could amplify the signal with an Op-Amp as I suggested in my
previous post or you could offset the signal to VCC/2 and measure the
sinusoid directly with the A/D converter of the PIC.

You told that you got an 100mV signal. That is 200mVpp. If you offset
the signal to 2.5V then you would get 2.4V in the negative semi-cycle
and 2.6 V in the  positive semi-cycle. That would give a differential
reading in the ADC of 40 counts, this may be enough to detect that the
heater is consuming power and even how many heater elements are working.


Best regards,

Isaac

2011\11\14@104252 by Joe Wronski

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Not much technical info here, but there are some sources of CTs and examples of biasing, etc.
<http://openenergymonitor.org/emon/node/156>
 I bought CTs with and without internal burden resistors from seeedstudio.  I use the unburdened one to simply detect lower currents, but might need an op amp for any accuracy with a burden R.  Using a freebie ferrite core is tempting, but I like the clamp on method the SCT-013 units use.  I've seen how-to's of making your own calmp on using a ferrite core and a big alligator clip.

Joe W




On 11/14/2011 5:56 AM, Isaac Marino Bavaresco wrote:
{Quote hidden}

>

2011\11\14@154333 by KPL

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wil CT's provide output signal more or less same form as the current?
I mean, are they usable to use as current pickups for scope, when
testing triac-regulated circuits? I'm just not sure how ferrite works
with these low frequencies.
I do not need to measure amplitudes, just to see the angle when triac
is switched on.
That would be much easier than using big isolation transformer before
whole circuit.

On Mon, Nov 14, 2011 at 17:42, Joe Wronski <spamBeGonejwronskispamBeGonespamstillwatereng.net> wrote:
{Quote hidden}

>

2011\11\14@201229 by Joe Wronski
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Yes, I believe so, but others here know more, from what I've read.  I recall using commercial current probes from tektronix. <http://www.tek.com/products/accessories/current.html?WT.srch=1&WT.mc_id=ppc,covtekggl91000000014973s <http://www.tek.com/products/accessories/current.html?WT.srch=1&WT.mc_id=ppc,covtekggl91000000014973s>>  for low current, high speed measurements.
With the SCT-013 I've observed nice waveforms of 60 Hz current at about 1 amp in the primary.  I imagine it would be high frequency you'd be concerned with in a triac circuit.
Joe W


On 11/14/2011 3:43 PM, KPL wrote:
{Quote hidden}

>> -

2011\11\16@211014 by Grant Tudor

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Thanks for all the great information. I have ordered a couple of the Seeed
Studio current sensors and I will get back to the list when I have had a
chance to try them out.

Regards,

Grant

On Tue, Nov 15, 2011 at 12:12 PM, Joe Wronski <RemoveMEjwronskispamTakeThisOuTstillwatereng.net>wrote:

{Quote hidden}

2011\11\30@044824 by Grant Tudor

picon face
I have now received the Seeed Studio current sensors I ordered a couple of
weeks ago. They worked a treat and I get a good voltage level out of them
when I use a 60W element @ 240VAC. I am now modifying my existing design to
utilise these to detect that the heating elements are drawing current.
Thanks to all that contributed from the list.

R/-

Grant

On Thu, Nov 17, 2011 at 1:10 PM, Grant Tudor <EraseMEgrant.tudorspamgmail.com> wrote:

{Quote hidden}

>

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