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'[PIC] CNC PIC Programmer'
2006\05\11@034942 by Dan Smith

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Just saw this on the CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO Yahoo group -
http://www.autoartisans.com/cnc/prgm1.htm

It's a homemade CNC X-Y table with a PIC programmer on the Z axis.
Looks pretty handy for programming frames of PCBs.

Dan

2006\05\11@102115 by M. Adam Davis

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Too bad it was so slow...

"However, the 20tpi leadscrews and small stepper motors resulted in
such slow movement that it was faster to do them by hand. "

Of course, if the time to complete them is not an issue and it doesn't
require constant babysitting, then it's still an advantage - you can
do other stuff and only deal with it for a minute between each run.  A
faster stepper driver (acceleration, etc) would probably speed things
up quite a bit anyway.

-Adam

On 5/11/06, Dan Smith <spam_OUTgaloophTakeThisOuTspamgmail.com> wrote:
> Just saw this on the CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO Yahoo group -
> http://www.autoartisans.com/cnc/prgm1.htm
>
> It's a homemade CNC X-Y table with a PIC programmer on the Z axis.
> Looks pretty handy for programming frames of PCBs.
>
> Dan
>
> -

2006\05\11@103657 by Philip Pemberton

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In message <.....c3001b1b0605110049p3b106f72ka867bd327249c50fKILLspamspam@spam@mail.gmail.com>>          "Dan Smith" <galoophspamKILLspamgmail.com> wrote:

> Just saw this on the CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO Yahoo group -
> http://www.autoartisans.com/cnc/prgm1.htm
>
> It's a homemade CNC X-Y table with a PIC programmer on the Z axis.
> Looks pretty handy for programming frames of PCBs.

Now that's nifty. Add a little printer mech (or label placer?) and you could
have it mark the boards that failed programming. The Parallax "inkjet printer
kit" might be useful as a base if you wanted to do that.

That said, I haven't seen a FLASH PIC fail to program for any reason other
than operator error. Usually along the lines of forgetting to set the PSU to
5V instead of 3V when removing code protection.

I might have a go at building a CNC. I've got a pair of dead HP Laserjet IIIs
that I snaffled the main drive motors from. Only problem is, the shaft isn't
the standard "half round" one you find on most motors - it looks like one
continuous worm gear. To date, I haven't found anything I could use to mate
it to a leadscrew.

That said, I still need to track down some leadscrews and some metal rails.
Copper or brass pipe might be an option, but wouldn't be very resistant to
damage (one dent and you get to replace the rails sort of thing).

--
Phil.                         | Kitsune: Acorn RiscPC SA202 64M+6G ViewFinder
.....philpemKILLspamspam.....dsl.pipex.com         | Cheetah: Athlon64 3200+ A8VDeluxeV2 512M+100G
http://www.philpem.me.uk/     | Tiger: Toshiba SatPro4600 Celeron700 256M+40G

2006\05\11@112725 by Alan B. Pearce

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>Now that's nifty. Add a little printer mech (or label placer?)

Or a dremel drill with a milling bit

>and you could have it mark the boards that failed programming.

and Wouter could engrave serial numbers ...

2006\05\11@123250 by Howard Winter

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Phil,

On Thu, 11 May 2006 15:31:44 +0100, Philip Pemberton wrote:

>...
> I might have a go at building a CNC. I've got a pair of dead HP Laserjet IIIs
> that I snaffled the main drive motors from. Only problem is, the shaft isn't
> the standard "half round" one you find on most motors - it looks like one
> continuous worm gear. To date, I haven't found anything I could use to mate
> it to a leadscrew.

Ah, you didn't take the mating part from the printer(s) then?  I always try to make sure I have matching parts
when I cannibalise something...

> That said, I still need to track down some leadscrews and some metal rails.
> Copper or brass pipe might be an option, but wouldn't be very resistant to
> damage (one dent and you get to replace the rails sort of thing).

These would wear really quickly.  If you can't get steel rails (silver steel would be good) then at least use
chromed copper, so there's some resistance to surface wear.  Otherwise the copper (/brass) will creep away
from the bearing surfaces.

Cheers,


Howard Winter
St.Albans, England


2006\05\11@125158 by Philip Pemberton

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In message <EraseME200605111632.k4BGWoJW017480spam_OUTspamTakeThisOuTfort-point-station.mit.edu>>          "Howard Winter" <HDRWspamspam_OUTH2Org.demon.co.uk> wrote:

> Ah, you didn't take the mating part from the printer(s) then?  I always try
> to make sure I have matching parts
> when I cannibalise something...

I did, but it's a plastic gear that looks shoddily made at best.

> These would wear really quickly.  If you can't get steel rails (silver
> steel would be good) then at least use
> chromed copper, so there's some resistance to surface wear.  Otherwise the
> copper (/brass) will creep away
> from the bearing surfaces.

Hmm, that would be a pretty big problem. An even bigger problem is the fact
that I can't seem to find anywhere that sells suitable steel rails...

--
Phil.                         | Kitsune: Acorn RiscPC SA202 64M+6G ViewFinder
@spam@philpemKILLspamspamdsl.pipex.com         | Cheetah: Athlon64 3200+ A8VDeluxeV2 512M+100G
http://www.philpem.me.uk/     | Tiger: Toshiba SatPro4600 Celeron700 256M+40G

2006\05\11@131536 by Howard Winter

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Phil,

On Thu, 11 May 2006 17:49:49 +0100, Philip Pemberton wrote:

> In message <KILLspam200605111632.k4BGWoJW017480KILLspamspamfort-point-station.mit.edu>> >           "Howard Winter" <RemoveMEHDRWTakeThisOuTspamH2Org.demon.co.uk> wrote:
>
> > Ah, you didn't take the mating part from the printer(s) then?  I always try
> > to make sure I have matching parts
> > when I cannibalise something...
>
> I did, but it's a plastic gear that looks shoddily made at best.

Ah... shame!

> > These would wear really quickly.  If you can't get steel rails (silver
> > steel would be good) then at least use
> > chromed copper, so there's some resistance to surface wear.  Otherwise the
> > copper (/brass) will creep away
> > from the bearing surfaces.
>
> Hmm, that would be a pretty big problem. An even bigger problem is the fact
> that I can't seem to find anywhere that sells suitable steel rails...

How big do they need to be?  (Diameter and length)  You can get silver steel rods fairly easily, but the
problem is that most people sell them in 300mm lengths, which may not be long enough.  In the 'States you can
get all sorts of metal, including this sort of stuff, from McMaster-Carr - but you knew that already!

Cheers,


Howard Winter
St.Albans, England


2006\05\11@132830 by Maarten Hofman

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>
> Hmm, that would be a pretty big problem. An even bigger problem is the
> fact
> that I can't seem to find anywhere that sells suitable steel rails...


Not sure which rails you are referring to, but the rails that move the head
up and down that are on the photos in the original posting are drawer rails,
which are available here in Rochester, NY, USA at Lowes, which means any
Lowes in the USA should carry them.

Greetings,
Maarten Hofman.

2006\05\11@134039 by Dominic Stratten

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----- Original Message -----
From: "Philip Pemberton" <spamBeGonephilpemspamBeGonespamdsl.pipex.com>
To: <TakeThisOuTpiclistEraseMEspamspam_OUTmit.edu>
Sent: Thursday, May 11, 2006 5:49 PM
Subject: Re: [PIC] CNC PIC Programmer


{Quote hidden}

> --

2006\05\11@140243 by Charles Craft

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>>
>>
>
>For shafts, bushings and bearings etc in the UK try a company called Euro
>Bearings - http://www.euro-bearings.com/
>
>Speak to Gerry and he will sort you out. I worked there for a while and one
>of the projects I was involved in was a giant CNC machine.
>
>Gerry will do you almost any length shaft at a good price :-)
>
>Dom
>


Nothing worse than getting the shaft at a bad price.



2006\05\12@035957 by Alan B. Pearce

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>An even bigger problem is the fact that I can't
>seem to find anywhere that sells suitable steel rails...

In the picture it looks like he may have used heavy duty kitchen draw rails,
but my preference is to use rails from 19" rack equipment. As such equipment
is often quite heavy (often requiring two people to safely lift it) such
rails are generally very well made. have a dig around any electronics
surplus places near you.

2006\05\12@052644 by Tony Smith

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> I might have a go at building a CNC. I've got a pair of dead
> HP Laserjet IIIs that I snaffled the main drive motors from.
> Only problem is, the shaft isn't the standard "half round"
> one you find on most motors - it looks like one continuous
> worm gear. To date, I haven't found anything I could use to
> mate it to a leadscrew.
>
> That said, I still need to track down some leadscrews and
> some metal rails. Copper or brass pipe might be an option,
> but wouldn't be very resistant to damage (one dent and you
> get to replace the rails sort of thing).


Try http://www.crankorgan.com for a few ideas.  Very cheap ideas!

Rails using chrome pipe (shower rails) or even gas pipe with rollerblade
wheels bearings.  MDF or plywood for the rest.

To attach your motors to leadscrews, use something like air hose with
some clamps.

Tony

2006\05\12@065519 by Howard Winter

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Tony,

On Fri, 12 May 2006 19:26:02 +1000, Tony Smith wrote:

>...
> Try http://www.crankorgan.com for a few ideas.  Very cheap ideas!

While you can pick up a few general ideas from that site, because he's selling the plans you can't get any
actual detail from it.  And he won't sell plans to those of us outside North America, so that's that!

I started building an X-Y table using a friend's Lathe/Mill, and bits bought from eBay.  I managed to get a
couple of THK slides for a reasonable price, but they often go for silly money.  So far I've got the Y-part
built, but my friend has moved, hasn't got as much space now, so I can't use his equipment any more... I may
build the rest in MDF because I know I can work that with what I have.  But it's about No.15 in my list of
projects, so it may be some time!

Cheers,

Howard Winter
St.Albans, England


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