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PICList Thread
'[PIC]: Getting started'
2001\03\21@114019 by Kevin Olalde

picon face
Bob Ammerman wrote:
> > 4.  Get a couple of PIC16F84's from Digikey   http://www.digikey.com  Most people
> > learn on this chip first.
>
> I'll strongly disagree with this. I'd get a PIC16F87x chip of some sort (I
> like the 876). This is a much more capable chip than the F84, and you don't
> have to try to use every feature up front.
>
> > 5.  Build, beg, or buy a programmer.  You can build the David Tait style
> > parallel port programmer for a few bucks,
> > http://www.piclist.com/techref/microchip/davidtait/index.html  or you can
> > buy a "Picstart" programmer for about $100 from Digikey.  Ask on the
> PIClist
> > and you may be able to buy a used "Picstart" programmer for less.
>
> Forget the PICStart, instead get an ICD (assuming you took my advice to use
> the PIC16F87x). This gives you not only in-circuit programmability, but also
> a poor man's ICE.


So I started with the PIC16F84A, which ICD (and software) do you use,
and why the 876 over the 877?

Kevin


BTW, all.  Thanks for the help with the POR circuit, and battery power
advice.  I now have two PIC16F84As being used to control a two way RF
communication link between my PC and a Palm.  Very rough at this point,
but making progress (and having fun).

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2001\03\21@115052 by Bob Ammerman

picon face
----- Original Message -----
From: Kevin Olalde <.....kolaldeKILLspamspam@spam@HOME.COM>
To: <PICLISTspamKILLspamMITVMA.MIT.EDU>
Sent: Wednesday, March 21, 2001 11:40 AM
Subject: Re: [PIC]: Getting started


> Bob Ammerman wrote:
> > > 4.  Get a couple of PIC16F84's from Digikey   http://www.digikey.com  Most
people
> > > learn on this chip first.
> >
> > I'll strongly disagree with this. I'd get a PIC16F87x chip of some sort
(I
> > like the 876). This is a much more capable chip than the F84, and you
don't
> > have to try to use every feature up front.
> >
> > > 5.  Build, beg, or buy a programmer.  You can build the David Tait
style
> > > parallel port programmer for a few bucks,
> > > http://www.piclist.com/techref/microchip/davidtait/index.html  or you
can
> > > buy a "Picstart" programmer for about $100 from Digikey.  Ask on the
> > PIClist
> > > and you may be able to buy a used "Picstart" programmer for less.
> >
> > Forget the PICStart, instead get an ICD (assuming you took my advice to
use
> > the PIC16F87x). This gives you not only in-circuit programmability, but
also
> > a poor man's ICE.
>
>
> So I started with the PIC16F84A, which ICD (and software) do you use,
> and why the 876 over the 877?

84A doesn't do ICD, that's one major reason I don't recommend it to newbies.

877 is fine.

84A is much smaller, or course.

I was kind of hoping that we would have ICD support for the new 18pin 16F62x
chips.

Bob Ammerman
RAm Systems
(contract development of high performance, high function, low-level
software)

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'[PIC]: getting started'
2004\03\10@101107 by Cristian Negru
flavicon
face
Hello,


I'm a beginner with PIC trying to learn about MCUs. For this project I
chose PIC16F84A at 20MHz.

I built yeasterday my the JDM programmer which is working(I guess). For
communicating with the PIC I use IC-prog.

With this set-up I successfully use the following IC-Prog commands: READ
All, Program All, Erase All, Verify and Blank Check.

I mention that the PIC were new and at the Blanck Check command I get
OK.

Anyhow, after those tests I assume that my programmer is working
properly.

I download a "Blinking LED" HEX program from the following site:


http://www.voti.nl/blink/index.html


and bild the hardware around the PIC. I use a 4MHz quartz and 2x22pF.

Unfortunately nothing were happened with the LED...After that I've
tryied the  "LED flasher" project from the following site:


http://www.interq.or.jp/japan/se-inoue/e_pic6_1.htm


also without success:-((( My concern is that the internal oscilator of
the PIC doesn't work. I've trying to measure the frequency oscilator
putting a frequency counter on the quartz reading nothing...

Also I've used 8MHz resonator(3pins), 10MHz resonator(2pins with 2x33pF
caps)and 20MHz quartz. Nothig were changed. The frequency counter does
not read the frequency and the LEDs doesn't light.

Because with the IC-prog all the above mentioned commands respond OK I
asume that the PIC is OK. How could I find what is wrong? How could I
test if the PIC is OK?

Any advice is more than welcome and please be patient with me because
this is my first time dealing with MCUs!


Thanks.


Cristian




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2004\03\10@102146 by Wouter van Ooijen

face picon face
> Because with the IC-prog all the above mentioned commands respond OK I
> asume that the PIC is OK. How could I find what is wrong? How could I
> test if the PIC is OK?

Can you do a verify?

Or when you read the chip using ic-prog and save the .hex file, is it
the same as the orginal one?

Are you sure the fuses settings that are in the .hex file are actually
used by ic-prog?

Is your circuit of? Maybe post it, or even a picture.

Wouter van Ooijen

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2004\03\10@103224 by Jan-Erik Soderholm

face picon face
Cristian Negru wrote :

> I'm a beginner with PIC trying to learn about MCUs.

Welcome onboard !

> For this project I chose PIC16F84A at 20MHz.

Now, this is nothing personal, but did you have a very
specific reason to use the old 16F84A ? It's not the
best PIC to begin with. E.g the 16F628A is better with
more features and costs about half of the 16F84A.
Someone wrote a web page about why one should not
use the 16F84(A), but I don't have the link right now.

Anyway...

[I know nothing about JDM and IC-Prog, so I'll just skip
that part...]

> I download a "Blinking LED" HEX program from the following site:
> http://www.voti.nl/blink/index.html

Exactly which of the files did you select ?

> and bild the hardware around the PIC.

Exactly how ?

> Also I've used 8MHz resonator(3pins), 10MHz resonator(2pins
> with 2x33pF caps)and 20MHz quartz.

You must have something else then just the x-tal, right ?
Just to mention one thing, how is the MCLR pin
connected ?

> Because with the IC-prog all the above mentioned commands respond OK I
> asume that the PIC is OK. How could I find what is wrong? How could I
> test if the PIC is OK?

Don't expect the PIC to be wrong. In 99 cases out of 100, there
is some other simple error in your setup...

Describe your test circuit and we'll see.

Regards,
Jan-Erik.

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2004\03\10@104220 by llile

flavicon
face
Cristian,

A lot of my projects start off this way.  I call it "failure to thrive"
usually it indicates there is something quite basic wrong:

1.  5V and ground to chip?  Correct polarity?  Does this chip have two 5V
pins (some PICs do, some don't)
2. Is the hex file you are programming into the chip set up for RC
oscillators? Crystal Oscillators (<4MHz) , High Speed oscillators (>4 MHz)
3. Do you have 20 pF capacitors in parallel with the crystal (20 - 30 pF
depending on the crystal)
4. Do you have a bad solder joint in a critical area?  Do you actually see
5V on the CHIP PIN, not just the pad under the pin?
5. Is MCLR held high at 5V (this gets me every time) ?
6. Is you PIC fried or static shocked? Are you wearing a sweater (any
material), working in a heated building when it is freezing cold outside,
without static mat on your bench?  Do you wear synthetic fabrics or wool?
Do you pet your cat between soldering? All of these things make enough
static to kill a PIC.
7. Have you got all the pins mirror imaged ?

-- Lawrence Lile
Senior Project Engineer
Toastmaster, Inc.
Division of Salton, Inc.
573-446-5661 voice
573-446-5676 fax




Cristian Negru <KILLspamCristian.NegruKILLspamspamCONNEX.RO>
Sent by: pic microcontroller discussion list <RemoveMEPICLISTTakeThisOuTspamMITVMA.MIT.EDU>
03/10/2004 08:58 AM
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       To:     spamBeGonePICLISTspamBeGonespamMITVMA.MIT.EDU
       cc:
       Subject:        [PIC]: getting started


Hello,



I'm a beginner with PIC trying to learn about MCUs. For this project I
chose PIC16F84A at 20MHz.

I built yeasterday my the JDM programmer which is working(I guess). For
communicating with the PIC I use IC-prog.

With this set-up I successfully use the following IC-Prog commands: READ
All, Program All, Erase All, Verify and Blank Check.

I mention that the PIC were new and at the Blanck Check command I get
OK.

Anyhow, after those tests I assume that my programmer is working
properly.

I download a "Blinking LED" HEX program from the following site:



http://www.voti.nl/blink/index.html



and bild the hardware around the PIC. I use a 4MHz quartz and 2x22pF.

Unfortunately nothing were happened with the LED...After that I've
tryied the  "LED flasher" project from the following site:



http://www.interq.or.jp/japan/se-inoue/e_pic6_1.htm



also without success:-((( My concern is that the internal oscilator of
the PIC doesn't work. I've trying to measure the frequency oscilator
putting a frequency counter on the quartz reading nothing...

Also I've used 8MHz resonator(3pins), 10MHz resonator(2pins with 2x33pF
caps)and 20MHz quartz. Nothig were changed. The frequency counter does
not read the frequency and the LEDs doesn't light.

Because with the IC-prog all the above mentioned commands respond OK I
asume that the PIC is OK. How could I find what is wrong? How could I
test if the PIC is OK?

Any advice is more than welcome and please be patient with me because
this is my first time dealing with MCUs!



Thanks.



Cristian





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The content of this communication is classified as Mobifon SA Romania
Confidential and Proprietary Information.The content of this communication
is intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom it is
addressed and others authorized to receive it. If you are not the intended
recipient you are hereby notified that any disclosure, copying,
distribution or taking any action in reliance on the contents of this
information is strictly prohibited and may be unlawful. If you have
received this communication in error, please notify us immediately by
responding to this communication then delete it from your system. We
appreciate your assistance in preserving the confidentiality of our
correspondence. Thank you.

Prezentul mesaj constituie o Informatie confidentiala si este proprietatea
exclusiva a  MobiFon S.A.. Mesajul se adreseaza numai persoanei fizice sau
juridice mentionata ca destinatara, precum si altor persoane autorizate
sa-l primeasca. In cazul in care nu sunteti destinatarul vizat, va aducem
la cunostinta ca dezvaluirea, copierea, distribuirea sau initierea unor
actiuni pe baza prezentei informatii sunt strict interzise si atrag
raspunderea civila si penala. Daca ati primit acest mesaj dintr-o eroare,
va rugam sa ne anuntati imediat, ca raspuns la mesajul de fata, si sa-l
stergeti apoi din sistemul dvs. Apreciem si va multumim pentru sprijinul
acordat in pastrarea confidentialitatii corespondentei noastre.
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2004\03\10@105058 by Cristian Negru

flavicon
face
Hello,

First, thanks for your answer.

- When I do verify first I load the code from the file and get OK.
- Yes, the program from the chip is the same like the original.
- I don't know exactly what are those fuses(sorry I'm a bigginer!)but
when I load the HEX program PWRT is checked. If this is used or not by
the IC-Prog, I don't know. How should I know that?
The circuit in this moment is the one from this site:
www.interq.or.jp/japan/se-inoue/e_pic6_1.htm
with all componets tested except PIC...

Maybe you can help me recomanding a blinking LED project which is
working 100%(tested by you also!)! I prefer with HEX file and something
which could work with my setup(I mean the programmer and IC-PROG)!

Look forward hearingr from you.

Cristian
{Original Message removed}

2004\03\10@105722 by Wouter van Ooijen

face picon face
> - When I do verify first I load the code from the file and get OK.
> - Yes, the program from the chip is the same like the original.

You positively mean that you can read the .hex from the chip and compare
it with an editor and there are no differences?

> Maybe you can help me recomanding a blinking LED project which is
> working 100%(tested by you also!)

http://www.voti.nl is my site. Als those blink-a-led programs have been tested
*with the stated target(s)*. Like Eric said: did you take the right one?

> which could work with my setup(I mean the programmer and IC-PROG)!

Sorry, I don't use ic-prog. I prefer my own product :)

Wouter van Ooijen

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2004\03\10@110311 by Cristian Negru

flavicon
face
Hello and thanks for your answer.

Well, 16F84(A) is around(you are right its not chip). Here, other PICs
are hard to find...Also there are couple of ATMEL but I want something
simple.

For the "blinking LED" project I select:

http://www.voti.nl/blink/code/b84a-1.hex and/or
http://www.voti.nl/blink/code/b84a-2.hex

using a 4MHz quartz.
So the schematics is like that:

Between PIN 15-16 I put the 4MHz quatz and from 15 and 16 to the ground
a 22pF and/or 33pF caps.
PIN 14 and 4(MCLR)are to +5Vcc - I've tried to put PIN 4 to +Vcc through
a 33-10Kohm resistor without any changes.
PIN 17 a LED with the kathod to the PIN and series with a 450Ohm
resistor to the +Vcc.
That's all.

My target is to do something with the PIC(the simple "blinking LED"
project). If you have such a project that you were tested, maybe you can
recommand me.

Look forward hearing from you.


Cristian

{Original Message removed}

2004\03\10@111141 by Wouter van Ooijen

face picon face
> So the schematics is like that:

- add power decoupling (100 nF near the chip + >10u somewhere on the
board)
- is the LED in the right direction?
- did you use a solderless breadboard? if square holes: do you know the
power lines are split?

Wouter van Ooijen

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2004\03\10@111802 by John J. McDonough

flavicon
face
Cristian

It sounds as if you aren't getting any oscillation.  Did you check your
wiring against the schematic, as opposed to the wiring diagram?  His diagram
probably is OK for a resonator, but it is confusing for a crystal.  For the
crystal, you want the crystal directly connected between pins 15 and 16.
You should have a 20pf or so from each side of the crystal to ground,
although I've never seen an 84 fail to oscillate because those capacitors
were missing.  His drawing makes it look like you need a ground in there,
which you do for the resonator, but for the crystal, it will surely not
oscillate if it's grounded.

It is possible that your counter is loading the oscillator so badly that it
causes it to stop oscillating.  If you have a receiver that can receive the
crystal frequency, you might try listening for it.  About a half-meter of
wire with one end wrapped around the crystal case should give you enough
coupling to hear it on almost any receiver.  It's easier if you have an SSB
or CW receiver because on those it will whistle - on an AM receiver it will
just quiet the noise - might make a little buzz.  Remember that it will
oscillate NEAR the frequency, not necessarily spot on.

Oh yes, another comment.  I am becoming more convinced that the F84 is the
best part FOR YOUR FIRST PROJECT.  I would certainly pick something else
later on, the 628 Jan-Erik mentions is a very nice part.  But it has all
sorts of features, and every feature translates into something else to
confuse you.  So for your first project, the 84 is a good choice.  When
you're an expert like Jan-Erik or Wouter, then the 628 is "no more
complicated" than the 84, but when you are just starting out, it is
absolutely intimidating.  Chalk up the extra couple euros for the 84 to
educational expense.

72/73 de WB8RCR    http://www.qsl.net/wb8rcr
didileydadidah     QRP-L #1446 Code Warriors #35

----- Original Message -----
From: "Cristian Negru" <RemoveMECristian.NegruEraseMEspamEraseMECONNEX.RO>
To: <RemoveMEPICLISTspam_OUTspamKILLspamMITVMA.MIT.EDU>
Sent: Wednesday, March 10, 2004 10:49 AM
Subject: Re: [PIC]: getting started


Hello,

First, thanks for your answer.

- When I do verify first I load the code from the file and get OK.
- Yes, the program from the chip is the same like the original.
- I don't know exactly what are those fuses(sorry I'm a bigginer!)but
when I load the HEX program PWRT is checked. If this is used or not by
the IC-Prog, I don't know. How should I know that?
The circuit in this moment is the one from this site:
www.interq.or.jp/japan/se-inoue/e_pic6_1.htm
with all componets tested except PIC...

Maybe you can help me recomanding a blinking LED project which is
working 100%(tested by you also!)! I prefer with HEX file and something
which could work with my setup(I mean the programmer and IC-PROG)!

Look forward hearingr from you.

Cristian

{Original Message removed}

2004\03\10@112009 by Alan B. Pearce

face picon face
>PIN 17 a LED with the kathod to the PIN and series
>with a 450Ohm resistor to the +Vcc.

is a 4.5k resistor the value that the circuit calls out? I would have said
that it is rather high unless you have a real bright LED. I would suggest
you try a resistor in the range of 470 ohm to 1000 ohm for a common LED.

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2004\03\10@144439 by Dave L

picon face
part 1 1284 bytes content-type:text/plain; x-avg-checked=avg-ok-C581512; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed (unknown type 8bit not decoded)

just to be really clear
after you program the chip:
you click on an unused buffer-tab
you select your chip from the pull down
you then read the chip
you then buffer-compare to the first buffer and its the same?
all the  configuration (fuses) settings on the right side are the way you
want them?
then so far so good...

At 04:56 PM 3/10/04 +0100, you wrote:
{Quote hidden}

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2004\03\11@065034 by Cristian Negru

flavicon
face
Hi,
Yes, this is right! "so far so good..." is not because it doesn't work...Today I bought a
16F84-04 and I'll try with this one too. Anyhow, from your site
http://www.voti.nl
on the blinking LED project with PIC16F84(A) it is not clear were to
connect pins 4, 12, 13 which goes to WISP. If I don't have WISP and
still want to build the project, what should I do? I think pin 4 should
be connected to +5Vcc and 12, 13 to the ground. How about the rest of
the un-used pins? Should be connected to somewere or could be leave it
on the air, un-connected?

Cristian
{Original Message removed}

2004\03\11@065903 by Wouter van Ooijen

face picon face
> Today I bought a 16F84-04 and I'll try with this one too.

In tha case use a 4 MHz crystal.

> on the blinking LED project with PIC16F84(A) it is not clear were to
> connect pins 4, 12, 13 which goes to WISP. If I don't have WISP and
> still want to build the project, what should I do?

You can simply ignore the lines to the Wisp628 if you don't use that
programmer. (But you will have to connect your woen programmer in the
appropriate way if you want to do ICSP.)

The unused pins of the target PIC can be left unconnected for now (in a
serious project you might want to add pull-up or down resistors, or make
the unused pins outputs).

Wouter van Ooijen

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2004\03\11@070110 by Cristian Negru

flavicon
face
Hi,

I wrote 450Ohm which mean 450 Ohm...do you se the diference?:) It is not
4500 Ohm.

Cristian
-----Original Message-----
From: pic microcontroller discussion list
[spamBeGonePICLISTSTOPspamspamEraseMEMITVMA.MIT.EDU] On Behalf Of Alan B. Pearce
Sent: Wednesday, March 10, 2004 18:19
To: KILLspamPICLISTspamBeGonespamMITVMA.MIT.EDU
Subject: Re: [PIC]: getting started

>PIN 17 a LED with the kathod to the PIN and series
>with a 450Ohm resistor to the +Vcc.

is a 4.5k resistor the value that the circuit calls out? I would have
said
that it is rather high unless you have a real bright LED. I would
suggest
you try a resistor in the range of 470 ohm to 1000 ohm for a common LED.

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2004\03\11@072845 by Cristian Negru

flavicon
face
Hi,

Answering to your questions first.

- I use 100nF + 47 microF on +5Vcc bar.
- LED is right polarized (I'm experience electronics).
- no I solder all components on a universal board.
- as a Vcc I use a 12Vcc industrial source to a LM7805 getting out 5Vcc
filtered in input with 100microF + 100nF and on 5Vcc with 22 microF +
100nF.

My qustion is: If the PIC clock doesn't oscilate, does the PIC works?
How can I measure if the PIC's oscilator is workin or not? I've tried
with a industrial frequency counter (Texas instrument - up to 1250MHz)on
high Z on the quatz terminal reading nothing. Tried to capture the
oscilation inductive putting a wire around the quartz without success.
My concern is that the oscilator doesn't work for I don't know which
reason. I use a tested quartz and measured capacitors(ranging from 20pF
to 33pF). What should I do. Again, is it possible that the PIC works
OK(because I can programm it, read it, erase it)except the oscilator
circuit?


Cristian
{Original Message removed}

2004\03\11@075126 by Wouter van Ooijen

face picon face
> My qustion is: If the PIC clock doesn't oscilate, does the PIC works?
> How can I measure if the PIC's oscilator is workin or not? I've tried
> with a industrial frequency counter (Texas instrument - up to
> 1250MHz)on
> high Z on the quatz terminal reading nothing. Tried to capture the
> oscilation inductive putting a wire around the quartz without success.
> My concern is that the oscilator doesn't work for I don't know which
> reason. I use a tested quartz and measured capacitors(ranging
> from 20pF
> to 33pF). What should I do. Again, is it possible that the PIC works
> OK(because I can programm it, read it, erase it)except the oscilator
> circuit?

The main reasons for the oscillator not working are:
- wrong components
- wrong connections
- wrong settings in the configuration fuses

If you clear the ic-prog buffer and then read the chip, does it then
show the 'HS' oscillator setting selected?

And again about solderless breadboards: do you realise that the common
round-hole types have a break in the power rails?

Wouter van Ooijen

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2004\03\11@081444 by Cristian Negru

flavicon
face
OK so let me understand clear because in the evening I want to try again
with the new 16F84.

I'll program the 16F84 with b84-1.hex or b84-2.hex with XT and PWRT
directive. If I'll get verify OK than sould be OK from programming point
of view.
After that I'll remove the PIC from the programmer and install it in the
electronic test circuit made like this:

- Pin 14 at +5Vcc
- pin 15-16 to X-tal of 4MHz decoupled to the ground with 20 or 22pF
capacitors
- pin 4 connected to +5Vcc through 33K resistor
- pin 17 to khathod of the LED and anode to +5Vcc through 330 ohm
resistor.
- pin 5 to -5Vcc.

Supplying this circuit should bring the LED blinking.

Please confirm if I'm understing correct.

Cristian
{Original Message removed}

2004\03\11@082935 by Cristian Negru

flavicon
face
The componets(quartz, capacitors)were measured before instalation and
are OK. Quartz were tested in a test oscilator and its freqency were
measured with a frequency counter. Capacitors were measured and it has
the specified value.

After I write the program into PIC I close the IC-Prog software and open
it again. Reading all from the PIC I compare this with the program from
the file and is the same. More, on a clear buffer of IC-Prog I load the
program from the .hex file and aftef that push the "verify" button. The
result were OK. I understand that using this function(verify) it
verifying if what is displayed on that buffer is the same with what it
is written in the PIC.

Regarding solderless breadboard, I measure the continuity between its
legs and the PIC legs, each by each and is OK!

Cristian
{Original Message removed}

2004\03\11@083941 by John J. McDonough

flavicon
face
Christian

It seems to me pretty unusual that the PIC would do everything but oscillate
unless something was wrong.  Although I have managed to toast a few, they
are not all that fragile so I wouldn't expect a bad PIC --- possible but on
the improbable side.

Maybe we should go back to basics.  Assuming a crystal, let's get out the
old voltmeter.  With the circuit powered, PIC in place, what are the
voltages on pins 4, 5, 14, 15 and 16 (I assume you have a reasonably high
impedance meter).

Take power from the circuit, remove the PIC.  What is the resistance to
ground from pins 5, 15, and 16?

Next, what is the resistance to ground from each of the RA/RB pins.  Since
you have diodes here, the polarity of your meter is going to matter.  I've
seen 84's "lock up" if you try to suck too much current through them.  I
think the spec says something like 20 ma total and 20 ma each pin, but I
know I've used them at a lot higher currents than that.  But if any single
pin shows less than about 300 ohms to ground I would be suspicious, and if
the total parallel resistance is less than about 100 ohms I'd also be a
little squeamish.

If this doesn't shed some light, I would next remove all the loads (i.e.
disconnect all the RA/RB pins) and check again for oscillation (of course,
the circuit won't do anything).

72/73 de WB8RCR    http://www.qsl.net/wb8rcr
didileydadidah     QRP-L #1446 Code Warriors #35

----- Original Message -----
From: "Cristian Negru" <.....Cristian.Negruspam_OUTspamCONNEX.RO>
To: <TakeThisOuTPICLIST.....spamTakeThisOuTMITVMA.MIT.EDU>
Sent: Thursday, March 11, 2004 7:27 AM
Subject: Re: [PIC]: getting started


Hi,

Answering to your questions first.

- I use 100nF + 47 microF on +5Vcc bar.
- LED is right polarized (I'm experience electronics).
- no I solder all components on a universal board.
- as a Vcc I use a 12Vcc industrial source to a LM7805 getting out 5Vcc
filtered in input with 100microF + 100nF and on 5Vcc with 22 microF +
100nF.

My qustion is: If the PIC clock doesn't oscilate, does the PIC works?
How can I measure if the PIC's oscilator is workin or not? I've tried
with a industrial frequency counter (Texas instrument - up to 1250MHz)on
high Z on the quatz terminal reading nothing. Tried to capture the
oscilation inductive putting a wire around the quartz without success.
My concern is that the oscilator doesn't work for I don't know which
reason. I use a tested quartz and measured capacitors(ranging from 20pF
to 33pF). What should I do. Again, is it possible that the PIC works
OK(because I can programm it, read it, erase it)except the oscilator
circuit?


Cristian

{Original Message removed}

2004\03\11@165812 by Wouter van Ooijen

face picon face
> If I'll get verify OK than sould be OK from
> programming point of view.

Being paranoid is good for a programmer (actually for any kind of
engineer). I would trust the programming only if I can read back the
content of the chip and it matches the original .hex file exactly.

> - pin 5 to -5Vcc.

I hope you mean 0 Volt? A difference of 10 Volt is not healthy for a
PIC!

Wouter van Ooijen

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consultancy, development, PICmicro products

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2004\03\12@035325 by Cristian Negru

flavicon
face
Yes you are right...0Vcc:)
Anyhow, I solve the problem and now everything is OK.
I hate to say but I must recognise that was my fault.
I count PIC's pin as follow:
From the key left up to down pin 1 to 9 and from the left up to down 10
to 18...instead of 18 to 10:((((
My luck were that VDD and VSS are in the middle so doesn't matter from
were you start counting, you can't broke the chip instead of switching +
with -.
Programmer is OK, blinking LED project is working, also Flash LED
project(with 8 LEDs)is working and make some "tunning" on it:) addapt
the timer routine to 4MHz qurtz.
Now I'm ready to learn and try PICs programs.

Thanks to all who your help me.


Cristian
{Original Message removed}

2004\03\12@042436 by Wouter van Ooijen

face picon face
> I hate to say but I must recognise that was my fault.
> I count PIC's pin as follow:
> From the key left up to down pin 1 to 9 and from the left up
> to down 10
> to 18...instead of 18 to 10:((((

Note that this would probably have been spotted immediately if you could
have posted a picture. Or you should have compared your ciruit to the
pictures (not the diagram!) on my blink-a-led page.

But I guess you will never ever make this mistake again? So: on to the
next one :)

Wouter van Ooijen

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consultancy, development, PICmicro products

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