Post by thread:[PIC]: SMD soldering using butane air gun/iron

This is a bit off-topic, but since I'm using a PIC in my circuit, I guess it's on-topic :) I'm thinking about using some SMD components on my next project, but I want to use something relatively simple (at home) to assemble a few dozen boards. I've read on the internet that you can use some solder paste and a toaster oven, but I've also read that you can use a hot air solder station (mega $$). I've seen some portable butane soldering irons for $50 that have an optional hot air gun tip that supposedly fires out a 1400 degree F stream of "air" (or whatever products result from burning butane). Anyone ever try this out? --Andrew _________________________________________________________________ Join the world s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com -- http://www.piclist.com#nomail Going offline? Don't AutoReply us! email spam_OUTlistservTakeThisOuTmitvma.mit.edu with SET PICList DIGEST in the body

It actually works quite well. I used a butane solder iron with the hot air tip (I guess this was intended for heat shrink tubing) for a couple of years before I got a real hot air soldering station. I used the higher quality ones sold under the weller or master name. They have different sized tips, the larger ones seemed to work better. This all worked better for part removal then placement, a good fine tipped iron always worked better for me at placing the parts. Be careful about the temperature, these irons can get quite hot and you will delaminate the pcb material if you are not careful. Get some scrap boards and practice. Regards, carl At 11:34 PM 4/30/2002, you wrote: {Quote hidden}>This is a bit off-topic, but since I'm using a PIC in my circuit, I guess >it's on-topic :) > >I'm thinking about using some SMD components on my next project, but I want >to use something relatively simple (at home) to assemble a few dozen boards. > >I've read on the internet that you can use some solder paste and a toaster >oven, but I've also read that you can use a hot air solder station (mega >$$). I've seen some portable butane soldering irons for $50 that have an >optional hot air gun tip that supposedly fires out a 1400 degree F stream of >"air" (or whatever products result from burning butane). Anyone ever try >this out? > >--Andrew -- http://www.piclist.com#nomail Going offline? Don't AutoReply us! email .....listservKILLspam@spam@mitvma.mit.edu with SET PICList DIGEST in the body

> I've read on the internet that you can use some solder paste and a > toaster oven, but I've also read that you can use a hot air solder > station (mega $$). I've seen some portable butane soldering irons for > $50 that have an optional hot air gun tip that supposedly fires out a > 1400 degree F stream of "air" (or whatever products result from > burning butane). Anyone ever try this out? Yes. I tried one of those and it doesn't work very well. It will melt the solder but it takes quite a bit of time because there isn't much air at that temp. The temptation to put on a flame tip is very high. Even the smallest one of those works too fast or if you hold it further away it doesn't work at all. The old faithful soldering iron is still a good option and there are lots of discussions of the various 'only way to do it' messages in the archives. Steve. ====================================================== Steve Baldwin Electronic Product Design TLA Microsystems Ltd Microcontroller Specialists PO Box 15-680, New Lynn http://www.tla.co.nz Auckland, New Zealand ph +64 9 820-2221 email: stevebKILLspamtla.co.nz fax +64 9 820-1929 ====================================================== -- http://www.piclist.com#nomail Going offline? Don't AutoReply us! email .....listservKILLspam.....mitvma.mit.edu with SET PICList DIGEST in the body

Drew Vassallo wrote: > This is a bit off-topic, but since I'm using a PIC in my circuit, I guess > it's on-topic :) > > I'm thinking about using some SMD components on my next project, but I want > to use something relatively simple (at home) to assemble a few dozen boards. > > I've read on the internet that you can use some solder paste and a toaster > oven, but I've also read that you can use a hot air solder station (mega > $$). I've seen some portable butane soldering irons for $50 that have an > optional hot air gun tip that supposedly fires out a 1400 degree F stream of > "air" (or whatever products result from burning butane). Anyone ever try > this out? I use a good soldering iron (Weller) for placing smd parts, but lately I've been experimenting with using a heat gun that I originally bought for covering model airplanes. It gets plenty hot, but the flow rate is way too high. Regardless, with enough patience, I've used it to remove 44pin PLCC's (16F877). Unfortunately it's also hot enough to melt the plastic parts of headers and db9 connectors. Any ideas on how to add a speed controller to my heat gun? It looks like a regular ac motor driving the fan, but I haven't taken it apart yet. I'm worried that if I reduce the flow rate too much the coils with overheat, so maybe I need to regulate those too. Maybe if I add a thermocouple and use a PIC to regulate the fan speed and coil heating... -- http://www.piclist.com hint: To leave the PICList EraseMEpiclist-unsubscribe-requestspam_OUTTakeThisOuTmitvma.mit.edu

A simple idea (and somewhat wasteful of electricity) would be to duct off a smaller pipe out of the stream and use that for SMD work >>> bfozspam_OUTTERRANDEV.COM 05/01/02 02:12PM >>> <snip> but lately I've been experimenting with using a heat gun that I originally bought for covering model airplanes. It gets plenty hot, but the flow rate is way too high. Regardless, with enough patience, I've used it to remove 44pin PLCC's (16F877). Unfortunately it's also hot enough to melt the plastic parts of headers and db9 connectors. Any ideas on how to add a speed controller to my heat gun? It looks like a regular ac motor driving the fan, but I haven't taken it apart yet. I'm worried that if I reduce the flow rate too much the coils with overheat, so maybe I need to regulate those too. Maybe if I add a thermocouple and use a PIC to regulate the fan speed and coil heating... -- http://www.piclist.com hint: To leave the PICList @spam@piclist-unsubscribe-requestKILLspammitvma.mit.edu -- http://www.piclist.com hint: To leave the PICList KILLspampiclist-unsubscribe-requestKILLspammitvma.mit.edu

Eoin Ross wrote: > > A simple idea (and somewhat wasteful of electricity) would be to duct off a smaller pipe out of the stream and use that for SMD work Maybe choke the air INPUT to reduce overall air flow (and speed)?? A decent triac drill speed controller on the element should give you some heat control too. -Roman -- http://www.piclist.com hint: PICList Posts must start with ONE topic: [PIC]:,[SX]:,[AVR]: ->uP ONLY! [EE]:,[OT]: ->Other [BUY]:,[AD]: ->Ads

Hi, steer clear of the butane hot air. The air is way too hot and it is not air, it is mostly H2O vapor aka steam and CO2. You risk to burn the board. What you could do is use the butane flame indirectly as an 'open' IR radiation oven. You'd put a thin metal plate (canned food lid) on supports above the board (1/4"to 1/2" would be right I guess) and heat it red hot with the butane. This should work right after some trials. Beware the flux fumes (they are flammable) and don't look into the butane flame (UV) or into the red hot plate (IR) too much. This takes so much tinkering imho that you shoulld invest in a carpet-setting hot air blower (400 deg C 2 speeds, 1500W or so), which you can get for under $50 in most places, and use as is. Still takes practice but it works. I have years of experience on this (@home) ;-). hope this helps, Peter On Tue, 30 Apr 2002, Drew Vassallo wrote: {Quote hidden}>This is a bit off-topic, but since I'm using a PIC in my circuit, I guess >it's on-topic :) > >I'm thinking about using some SMD components on my next project, but I want >to use something relatively simple (at home) to assemble a few dozen boards. > >I've read on the internet that you can use some solder paste and a toaster >oven, but I've also read that you can use a hot air solder station (mega >$$). I've seen some portable butane soldering irons for $50 that have an >optional hot air gun tip that supposedly fires out a 1400 degree F stream of >"air" (or whatever products result from burning butane). Anyone ever try >this out? > >--Andrew > >_________________________________________________________________ >Join the world s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. >http://www.hotmail.com > >-- >http://www.piclist.com#nomail Going offline? Don't AutoReply us! >email RemoveMElistservTakeThisOuTmitvma.mit.edu with SET PICList DIGEST in the body > > > -- http://www.piclist.com hint: PICList Posts must start with ONE topic: [PIC]:,[SX]:,[AVR]: ->uP ONLY! [EE]:,[OT]: ->Other [BUY]:,[AD]: ->Ads

On Wed, 1 May 2002, Eoin Ross wrote: >Any ideas on how to add a speed controller to my heat gun? It looks like a >regular ac motor driving the fan, but I haven't taken it apart yet. I'm worried >that if I reduce the flow rate too much the coils with overheat, so maybe I need >to regulate those too. Maybe if I add a thermocouple and use a PIC to regulate >the fan speed and coil heating... Switching a simple diode in series with it will reduce the power a little (30% or so). Otherwise use a controller meant for drill speed control or even a light dimmer. The motor is a PM dc motor and is in series with the heater so its speed will change with the power and there will be no overheating. However you need to check this for your fan. Peter -- http://www.piclist.com hint: The list server can filter out subtopics (like ads or off topics) for you. See http://www.piclist.com/#topics

At 10:48 PM 5/2/02 +0300, Peter L. Peres wrote: >On Wed, 1 May 2002, Eoin Ross wrote: > > >Any ideas on how to add a speed controller to my heat gun? I > >Switching a simple diode in series with it will reduce the power a little >(30% or so). Actually, adding a series diode reduces the power by exactly 50% (1/2). dwayne Dwayne Reid <spamBeGonedwaynerspamBeGoneplanet.eon.net> Trinity Electronics Systems Ltd Edmonton, AB, CANADA (780) 489-3199 voice (780) 487-6397 fax Celebrating 18 years of Engineering Innovation (1984 - 2002) .-. .-. .-. .-. .-. .-. .-. .-. .-. .- `-' `-' `-' `-' `-' `-' `-' `-' `-' Do NOT send unsolicited commercial email to this email address. This message neither grants consent to receive unsolicited commercial email nor is intended to solicit commercial email. -- http://www.piclist.com hint: The list server can filter out subtopics (like ads or off topics) for you. See http://www.piclist.com/#topics

Hi Dwayne, I think that your computation of exactly 50% only pertains to resistive loads. It might be different for something like a heater (where the resistance gets lower with lower temperatures) or a motor or a reactive load. Sean At 10:46 AM 5/3/02 -0600, you wrote: {Quote hidden}>At 10:48 PM 5/2/02 +0300, Peter L. Peres wrote: >>On Wed, 1 May 2002, Eoin Ross wrote: >> >> >Any ideas on how to add a speed controller to my heat gun? I >> >>Switching a simple diode in series with it will reduce the power a little >>(30% or so). > >Actually, adding a series diode reduces the power by exactly 50% (1/2). > >dwayne > > > >Dwayne Reid <TakeThisOuTdwaynerEraseMEspam_OUTplanet.eon.net> >Trinity Electronics Systems Ltd Edmonton, AB, CANADA >(780) 489-3199 voice (780) 487-6397 fax > >Celebrating 18 years of Engineering Innovation (1984 - 2002) > .-. .-. .-. .-. .-. .-. .-. .-. .-. .- > `-' `-' `-' `-' `-' `-' `-' `-' `-' >Do NOT send unsolicited commercial email to this email address. >This message neither grants consent to receive unsolicited >commercial email nor is intended to solicit commercial email. > >-- >http://www.piclist.com hint: The list server can filter out subtopics >(like ads or off topics) for you. See http://www.piclist.com/#topics > -- http://www.piclist.com hint: The list server can filter out subtopics (like ads or off topics) for you. See http://www.piclist.com/#topics

At 01:58 PM 5/3/02 -0400, Sean H. Breheny wrote: >Hi Dwayne, > >I think that your computation of exactly 50% only pertains to resistive >loads. It might be different for something like a heater (where the >resistance gets lower with lower temperatures) or a motor or a reactive load. Most heaters ARE resistors. The heater in a heat gun is usually made with NiChrome wire which has a fairly low tempco. Motors are different, as are light bulbs. But we were talking about the heater in a heat gun and I stand by my statement of 50%. dwayne Dwayne Reid <RemoveMEdwaynerTakeThisOuTplanet.eon.net> Trinity Electronics Systems Ltd Edmonton, AB, CANADA (780) 489-3199 voice (780) 487-6397 fax Celebrating 18 years of Engineering Innovation (1984 - 2002) .-. .-. .-. .-. .-. .-. .-. .-. .-. .- `-' `-' `-' `-' `-' `-' `-' `-' `-' Do NOT send unsolicited commercial email to this email address. This message neither grants consent to receive unsolicited commercial email nor is intended to solicit commercial email. -- http://www.piclist.com hint: The list server can filter out subtopics (like ads or off topics) for you. See http://www.piclist.com/#topics

On Fri, 3 May 2002, Dwayne Reid wrote: >At 10:48 PM 5/2/02 +0300, Peter L. Peres wrote: >>On Wed, 1 May 2002, Eoin Ross wrote: >> >> >Any ideas on how to add a speed controller to my heat gun? I >> >>Switching a simple diode in series with it will reduce the power a little >>(30% or so). > >Actually, adding a series diode reduces the power by exactly 50% (1/2). You are correct, I had lightbulbs in mind, and the real situation where switching a diode in series with a blower does not cut the temperature or the heatflow in half. It cuts the power in half. And airflow and heat are coupled so the temperature drops about 30% in this case. For the subject at hand (carpet blower) from 420C to about 270C which is just right for SMD work with some care. These are real measured numbers, unlike the goof above. thanks for pointing out the goof, Peter -- http://www.piclist.com hint: The list server can filter out subtopics (like ads or off topics) for you. See http://www.piclist.com/#topics

On Fri, 3 May 2002, Sean H. Breheny wrote: >Hi Dwayne, > >I think that your computation of exactly 50% only pertains to resistive >loads. It might be different for something like a heater (where the >resistance gets lower with lower temperatures) or a motor or a reactive load. Actually in this case he is right about the power proper, but the outcome is right (see my other posting). The heater in a heat gun, or space heater, uses heater wire with a low tempco so the resistance is very much the same whether cold or hot. Unlike lightbulbs etc. For this reason 500W and 1000W space heaters make great testing loads for higher end audio amps ;-) Peter -- http://www.piclist.com hint: The list server can filter out subtopics (like ads or off topics) for you. See http://www.piclist.com/#topics

> >Switching a simple diode in series with it will reduce the power a little > >(30% or so). > > Actually, adding a series diode reduces the power by exactly 50% (1/2). Not necessarily. Some devices will draw more power during the remaining 1/2 cycle. DC supplies with large filter capacitors will do this. So will motors because the motor will draw more current as it slows down. ***************************************************************** Embed Inc, embedded system specialists in Littleton Massachusetts (978) 742-9014, http://www.embedinc.com -- http://www.piclist.com hint: The list server can filter out subtopics (like ads or off topics) for you. See http://www.piclist.com/#topics