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'[PIC]: SMD soldering using butane air gun/iron'
2002\04\30@193630 by Drew Vassallo

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This is a bit off-topic, but since I'm using a PIC in my circuit, I guess
it's on-topic :)

I'm thinking about using some SMD components on my next project, but I want
to use something relatively simple (at home) to assemble a few dozen boards.

I've read on the internet that you can use some solder paste and a toaster
oven, but I've also read that you can use a hot air solder station (mega
$$).  I've seen some portable butane soldering irons for $50 that have an
optional hot air gun tip that supposedly fires out a 1400 degree F stream of
"air" (or whatever products result from burning butane).  Anyone ever try
this out?

--Andrew

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2002\04\30@201029 by H. Carl Ott

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 It actually works quite well. I used a butane solder iron with the hot
air tip (I guess this was intended for heat shrink tubing) for a couple of
years before I got a real hot air soldering station. I used the higher
quality ones sold under the weller or master name. They have different
sized tips, the larger ones seemed to work better.

 This all worked better for part removal then placement, a good fine
tipped iron always worked better for me at placing the parts.

 Be careful  about the temperature, these irons can get quite hot and you
will delaminate the pcb material if you are not careful.  Get some scrap
boards and practice.

 Regards,

carl


At 11:34 PM 4/30/2002, you wrote:
{Quote hidden}

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2002\04\30@201704 by steve

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> I've read on the internet that you can use some solder paste and a
> toaster oven, but I've also read that you can use a hot air solder
> station (mega $$).  I've seen some portable butane soldering irons for
> $50 that have an optional hot air gun tip that supposedly fires out a
> 1400 degree F stream of "air" (or whatever products result from
> burning butane).  Anyone ever try this out?

Yes. I tried one of those and it doesn't work very well. It will melt
the solder but it takes quite a bit of time because there isn't much
air at that temp. The temptation to put on a flame tip is very high.
Even the smallest one of those works too fast or if you hold it
further away it doesn't work at all.

The old faithful soldering iron is still a good option and there are
lots of discussions of the various 'only way to do it' messages in
the archives.

Steve.

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'[PIC]: SMD soldering using butane air gun/iron'
2002\05\01@151616 by Brandon Fosdick
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Drew Vassallo wrote:
> This is a bit off-topic, but since I'm using a PIC in my circuit, I guess
> it's on-topic :)
>
> I'm thinking about using some SMD components on my next project, but I want
> to use something relatively simple (at home) to assemble a few dozen boards.
>
> I've read on the internet that you can use some solder paste and a toaster
> oven, but I've also read that you can use a hot air solder station (mega
> $$).  I've seen some portable butane soldering irons for $50 that have an
> optional hot air gun tip that supposedly fires out a 1400 degree F stream of
> "air" (or whatever products result from burning butane).  Anyone ever try
> this out?

I use a good soldering iron (Weller) for placing smd parts, but lately I've been
experimenting with using a heat gun that I originally bought for covering model
airplanes. It gets plenty hot, but the flow rate is way too high. Regardless,
with enough patience, I've used it to remove 44pin PLCC's (16F877).
Unfortunately it's also hot enough to melt the plastic parts of headers and db9
connectors.

Any ideas on how to add a speed controller to my heat gun? It looks like a
regular ac motor driving the fan, but I haven't taken it apart yet. I'm worried
that if I reduce the flow rate too much the coils with overheat, so maybe I need
to regulate those too. Maybe if I add a thermocouple and use a PIC to regulate
the fan speed and coil heating...

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2002\05\01@161639 by Eoin Ross

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A simple idea (and somewhat wasteful of electricity) would be to duct off a smaller pipe out of the stream and use that for SMD work

>>> bfozspamspam_OUTTERRANDEV.COM 05/01/02 02:12PM >>>
<snip>
but lately I've been experimenting with using a heat gun that
I originally bought for covering model airplanes. It gets plenty hot, but the flow rate is way too high. Regardless, with enough patience, I've used it to remove 44pin PLCC's (16F877).
Unfortunately it's also hot enough to melt the plastic parts of headers and db9 connectors.

Any ideas on how to add a speed controller to my heat gun? It looks like a
regular ac motor driving the fan, but I haven't taken it apart yet. I'm worried
that if I reduce the flow rate too much the coils with overheat, so maybe I need
to regulate those too. Maybe if I add a thermocouple and use a PIC to regulate
the fan speed and coil heating...

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2002\05\02@015035 by Roman Black

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Eoin Ross wrote:
>
> A simple idea (and somewhat wasteful of electricity) would be to duct off a smaller pipe out of the stream and use that for SMD work

Maybe choke the air INPUT to reduce overall
air flow (and speed)?? A decent triac drill
speed controller on the element should
give you some heat control too.
-Roman

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2002\05\02@115730 by Peter L. Peres

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Hi,

steer clear of the butane hot air. The air is way too hot and it is not
air, it is mostly H2O vapor aka steam and CO2. You risk to burn the board.
What you could do is use the butane flame indirectly as an 'open' IR
radiation oven.  You'd put a thin metal plate (canned food lid) on
supports above the board (1/4"to 1/2"  would be right I guess) and heat it
red hot with the butane. This should work right after some trials. Beware
the flux fumes (they are flammable) and don't look into the butane flame
(UV) or into the red hot plate (IR) too much. This takes so much tinkering
imho that you shoulld invest in a carpet-setting hot air blower (400 deg C
2 speeds, 1500W or so), which you can get for under $50 in most places,
and use as is. Still takes practice but it works. I have years of
experience on this (@home) ;-).

hope this helps,

Peter

On Tue, 30 Apr 2002, Drew Vassallo wrote:

{Quote hidden}

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2002\05\03@042252 by Peter L. Peres

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On Wed, 1 May 2002, Eoin Ross wrote:

>Any ideas on how to add a speed controller to my heat gun? It looks like a
>regular ac motor driving the fan, but I haven't taken it apart yet. I'm worried
>that if I reduce the flow rate too much the coils with overheat, so maybe I need
>to regulate those too. Maybe if I add a thermocouple and use a PIC to regulate
>the fan speed and coil heating...

Switching a simple diode in series with it will reduce the power a little
(30% or so). Otherwise use a controller meant for drill speed control or
even a light dimmer. The motor is a PM dc motor and is in series with the
heater so its speed will change with the power and there will be no
overheating. However you need to check this for your fan.

Peter

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2002\05\03@134752 by Dwayne Reid

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At 10:48 PM 5/2/02 +0300, Peter L. Peres wrote:
>On Wed, 1 May 2002, Eoin Ross wrote:
>
> >Any ideas on how to add a speed controller to my heat gun? I
>
>Switching a simple diode in series with it will reduce the power a little
>(30% or so).

Actually, adding a series diode reduces the power by exactly 50% (1/2).

dwayne



Dwayne Reid   <spamBeGonedwaynerspamBeGonespamplanet.eon.net>
Trinity Electronics Systems Ltd    Edmonton, AB, CANADA
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2002\05\03@141909 by Sean H. Breheny

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Hi Dwayne,

I think that your computation of exactly 50% only pertains to resistive
loads. It might be different for something like a heater (where the
resistance gets lower with lower temperatures) or a motor or a reactive load.

Sean

At 10:46 AM 5/3/02 -0600, you wrote:
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2002\05\03@165104 by Dwayne Reid
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At 01:58 PM 5/3/02 -0400, Sean H. Breheny wrote:
>Hi Dwayne,
>
>I think that your computation of exactly 50% only pertains to resistive
>loads. It might be different for something like a heater (where the
>resistance gets lower with lower temperatures) or a motor or a reactive load.

Most heaters ARE resistors.  The heater in a heat gun is usually made with
NiChrome wire which has a fairly low tempco.

Motors are different, as are light bulbs.  But we were talking about the
heater in a heat gun and I stand by my statement of 50%.

dwayne


Dwayne Reid   <RemoveMEdwaynerspamTakeThisOuTplanet.eon.net>
Trinity Electronics Systems Ltd    Edmonton, AB, CANADA
(780) 489-3199 voice          (780) 487-6397 fax

Celebrating 18 years of Engineering Innovation (1984 - 2002)
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2002\05\03@174944 by Peter L. Peres

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On Fri, 3 May 2002, Dwayne Reid wrote:

>At 10:48 PM 5/2/02 +0300, Peter L. Peres wrote:
>>On Wed, 1 May 2002, Eoin Ross wrote:
>>
>> >Any ideas on how to add a speed controller to my heat gun? I
>>
>>Switching a simple diode in series with it will reduce the power a little
>>(30% or so).
>
>Actually, adding a series diode reduces the power by exactly 50% (1/2).

You are correct, I had lightbulbs in mind, and the real situation where
switching a diode in series with a blower does not cut the temperature or
the heatflow in half. It cuts the power in half. And airflow and heat are
coupled so the temperature drops about 30% in this case. For the subject
at hand (carpet blower) from 420C to about 270C which is just right for
SMD work with some care. These are real measured numbers, unlike the goof
above.

thanks for pointing out the goof,

Peter

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2002\05\03@174955 by Peter L. Peres

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On Fri, 3 May 2002, Sean H. Breheny wrote:

>Hi Dwayne,
>
>I think that your computation of exactly 50% only pertains to resistive
>loads. It might be different for something like a heater (where the
>resistance gets lower with lower temperatures) or a motor or a reactive load.

Actually in this case he is right about the power proper, but the outcome
is right (see my other posting). The heater in a heat gun, or space
heater, uses heater wire with a low tempco so the resistance is very much
the same whether cold or hot. Unlike lightbulbs etc. For this reason 500W
and 1000W space heaters make great testing loads for higher end audio amps
;-)

Peter

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2002\05\03@175011 by Olin Lathrop

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> >Switching a simple diode in series with it will reduce the power a little
> >(30% or so).
>
> Actually, adding a series diode reduces the power by exactly 50% (1/2).

Not necessarily.  Some devices will draw more power during the remaining 1/2
cycle.  DC supplies with large filter capacitors will do this.  So will
motors because the motor will draw more current as it slows down.


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