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'[OT] Pictures of my first home made PCB'
2009\08\14@031135 by solarwind

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I finally had my camera returned to me and took a few pictures of my PCB.

Here they are: http://solar-blogg.blogspot.com/2009/08/pictures-of-my-first-home-made-pcb.html

Please comment if you have anything to say.

-- [ solarwind ] -- http://solar-blogg.blogspot.com/

2009\08\14@114756 by jim

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Solarwind,

Trivial point, but for better photos, adjust your white balance.

Jim


----- Original Message -----
From: "solarwind" <spam_OUTx.solarwind.xTakeThisOuTspamgmail.com>
To: "PICLIST" <.....piclistKILLspamspam@spam@mit.edu>
Sent: Friday, August 14, 2009 2:11 AM
Subject: [OT] Pictures of my first home made PCB


>I finally had my camera returned to me and took a few pictures of my PCB.
>
> Here they are:
> http://solar-blogg.blogspot.com/2009/08/pictures-of-my-first-home-made-pcb.html
>
> Please comment if you have anything to say.
>
> -- [ solarwind ] -- http://solar-blogg.blogspot.com/
> --

2009\08\14@115711 by Tony Vandiver

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Well done - the experience will pay dividends.

solarwind wrote:
> I finally had my camera returned to me and took a few pictures of my PCB.
>
> Here they are: http://solar-blogg.blogspot.com/2009/08/pictures-of-my-first-home-made-pcb.html
>
> Please comment if you have anything to say.
>
> -- [ solarwind ] -- http://solar-blogg.blogspot.com/
>  

2009\08\14@123655 by solarwind

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On Fri, Aug 14, 2009 at 11:46 AM, jim<jimspamKILLspamjpes.com> wrote:
>
> Solarwind,
>
> Trivial point, but for better photos, adjust your white balance.

Thanks, I will try again.

2009\08\14@135707 by Danny Kellett

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Looks quite tidy. Nice one

2009/8/14 solarwind <.....x.solarwind.xKILLspamspam.....gmail.com>:
> I finally had my camera returned to me and took a few pictures of my PCB.
>
> Here they are: http://solar-blogg.blogspot.com/2009/08/pictures-of-my-first-home-made-pcb.html
>
> Please comment if you have anything to say.
>
> -- [ solarwind ] -- http://solar-blogg.blogspot.com/
> -

2009\08\14@142241 by Isaac Marino Bavaresco

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I would use a copper pour for the ground net, it makes the board look
better, takes less time to etch, the etching solution lasts longer,
enhances shielding and reduces ground bounce problems.

Best regards,

Isaac


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2009\08\14@143021 by Isaac Marino Bavaresco

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I would use a copper pour for the ground net, it makes the board look
better, takes less time to etch, the etching solution lasts longer,
enhances shielding and reduces ground bounce problems.

Best regards,

Isaac


solarwind escreveu:
{Quote hidden}

__________________________________________________
Faça ligações para outros computadores com o novo Yahoo! Messenger
http://br.beta.messenger.yahoo.com/

2009\08\14@151625 by Bob Blick

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On Fri, 14 Aug 2009 03:11:14 -0400, "solarwind"
<EraseMEx.solarwind.xspam_OUTspamTakeThisOuTgmail.com> said:
> I finally had my camera returned to me and took a few pictures of my PCB.
>
> Here they are:
> solar-blogg.blogspot.com/2009/08/pictures-of-my-first-home-made-pcb.html
>
> Please comment if you have anything to say.

Looks great. Did you use single-sided board? Or did you etch the other
side off, or peel it off by hand?

Cheers,

Bob

--
http://www.fastmail.fm - Choose from over 50 domains or use your own

2009\08\14@155057 by Herbert Graf

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On Fri, 2009-08-14 at 10:46 -0500, jim wrote:
> Solarwind,
>
> Trivial point, but for better photos, adjust your white balance.

Very true. I've never found a camera that was 100% with white balance
and contrast, even the better ones need a little post processing for the
photos to look their best.

Takes a while, but well worth it.

TTYL

2009\08\14@233327 by solarwind

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On Fri, Aug 14, 2009 at 3:16 PM, Bob Blick<bobblickspamspam_OUTftml.net> wrote:
> Looks great. Did you use single-sided board? Or did you etch the other
> side off, or peel it off by hand?

Thanks. I used a single sided board. I also practiced in the corner
with the drilling so there are a lot of random holes in the board. Now
I know the process and how to do it. It's also very easy to drill the
holes, especially when you have a small hole in the middle of the
copper pad, so that the drill bit can align itself. I find that the
drill bit slips on copper but is very sturdy on the FR4.

2009\08\15@064032 by Tamas Rudnai

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On Fri, Aug 14, 2009 at 9:50 PM, Herbert Graf <@spam@hkgrafKILLspamspamgmail.com> wrote:

> Very true. I've never found a camera that was 100% with white balance
> and contrast, even the better ones need a little post processing for the
> photos to look their best.
>

Many times I use Google Picasa for this -- just click on the "I feel lucky"
button and most of the times the result is appropriate.

Tamas



>
> Takes a while, but well worth it.
>
> TTYL
>
> -

2009\08\15@064558 by Lee Jones

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>> [...] for better photos, adjust your white balance.

> Very true. I've never found a camera that was 100% with
> white balance and contrast, even the better ones need a
> little post processing for the photos to look their best.

You can do essentially zero post-processing with the right
techniques during the shooting session.

Easiest way is to shoot an 18% gray card under the lighting
(fill the frame) you will be using then select "custom white
balance" (in camera menu) and use that gray card frame as the
target image.  You have to repeat when the lighting changes.
But if you have pre-scouted out locations (say wedding with
outdoors, in church, reception in restaurant, etc), you can
pre-expose gray card photos as first few images on each of
your memory cards.

Better is use a PhotoVision Digital Calibration Target (has
3 bars: 1 white, 1 18% gray, & 1 black -- average 18% gray).
Use it to set white balance (as above) then use white bar
plus the camera's histogram to set highlight exposure.

You take care of contrast by building your lighting setup
correctly beforehand -- assuming you have control of the
lights and/or have reflectors available.

At this point, all the images are "proof quality" or better
with no post-processing.

Once you get white balance & exposure close, you can tweak
it a bit further...

One post-processing step that's hard to avoid is calibration
of your specific camera's sensor.  Shoot a ColorChecker card
(from Pantone, GretagMacbeth, X-Rite, etc) then run the
Photoshop calibration tool or script (depending on version
of Photoshop you use).  Output is a set of constants/curves
for each color channel.  You then bulk apply this to all of
the images that you shot at a specific color temperature &
ISO speed.

[ Note -- the above paragraphs are a barebones introduction
 to these techniques.  ]

                                               Lee Jones

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