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'[OT] PCB coatings'
2000\05\04@095946 by Mike Knoll

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I made a circuit boards, and now they're sitting there, with bare copper
exposed to air.  I found some products used to coat boards to prevent
shorts, but also thought oxidation may be a problem.  Has anyone had
oxidation of bare copper boards?  The coatings in Mouser are $15/can,
anyone found any cheaper solution?

Mike

2000\05\04@101759 by James Paul

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Mike,

Oxidation can be eliminated/reduced by having the bopards tin plated.
This is most easily done at mfg time by the board maker.  You can get
tin plating solutions to do it yourself, but I'll have to look up
the name of the place I'm thinking of.

Shorts can be taken care of by having a solder mask put on again at
the time of mfg by the board house.  I suppose you could probably do
this yourself too, but it would be difficult at best I believe.
At this point, I'd say your best chance at short free population of
the boards is careful soldering.  And even that won't guarantee no
problems.

It's a little more expensive at the outset, but I suggest having the
board house apply both a solder mask and tin plating on the traces as
the board is manufactured.   You'll be glad you did in the long run.

Of course, you could flow solder on all traces, but this is very
time consuming, and not really pretty when said and done.

Hope this helps.


                                         Regards,

                                           Jim



On Thu, 04 May 2000, Mike Knoll wrote:

>
> I made a circuit boards, and now they're sitting there, with bare copper
> exposed to air.  I found some products used to coat boards to prevent
> shorts, but also thought oxidation may be a problem.  Has anyone had
> oxidation of bare copper boards?  The coatings in Mouser are $15/can,
> anyone found any cheaper solution?
>
> Mike

spam_OUTjimTakeThisOuTspamjpes.com

2000\05\04@102745 by David Covick

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Mike,

I use something called "Liquid Tin" from M.G. Chemicals.  It is a clear
liquid that you just dip the board into and it turns(chemically) the copper
surface into "tin".  Takes only seconds to dip and you re-use the solution.
Real slick!
The plating comes out a little dull looking cosmetically, so sometimes I
rub/buff the surface with a cloth and it comes outs nice and
shiny....looking like tin.

David


{Original Message removed}

2000\05\04@104057 by Giles

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I have noticed a surprisingly large number of chemicals for tin-lead and
solder mask available at Fry's.  You might go look at that store if you have
one in your area.
Don't bother trying to ask for help in the store.

Best regards,
Giles

{Original Message removed}

2000\05\04@105801 by Mike Knoll

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Okay, the board is already soldered, so I can't dip it in any tinning
solution.  So, the $15 can is my best bet?

Mike

On Thu, 4 May 2000, James Paul wrote:

{Quote hidden}

2000\05\04@112000 by Stephan Kotze

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I have used a product called Plastik 70 from Kontakt Chemie for a while now.
You apply directly on the bare copper before soldering, and you can solder
through it. When done populating, you remove the flux and give it another
coating. Works for small runs and prototypes else I suggest  you go the
solder mask route for larger runs.

Stephan
{Original Message removed}

2000\05\04@112841 by Larry G. Nelson Sr.

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I have used clear Krylon spray paint after testing the assembled board.


At 09:55 AM 5/4/00 -0400, you wrote:
>I made a circuit boards, and now they're sitting there, with bare copper
>exposed to air.  I found some products used to coat boards to prevent
>shorts, but also thought oxidation may be a problem.  Has anyone had
>oxidation of bare copper boards?  The coatings in Mouser are $15/can,
>anyone found any cheaper solution?
>
>Mike
>
>
Larry G. Nelson Sr.
L.NelsonspamKILLspamieee.org
http://www.ultranet.com/~nr

2000\05\04@122747 by Ricardo Seixas

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<x-flowed>At 11:53 04/05/00, you wrote:
>Okay, the board is already soldered, so I can't dip it in any tinning
>solution.  So, the $15 can is my best bet?
>
>Mike

You can use hair spray (lacquer ?) that women uses to fix the hair in place.
Grab it from your wife/sister/mother/whatever and give it a try, been there
done that...
BTW, don't forget to put it back :)

Hope this helps.






-----------------------------------
Ricardo Seixas
.....rseixasKILLspamspam.....pobox.com
-----------------------------------

</x-flowed>

2000\05\04@123205 by Spehro Pefhany

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At 01:25 PM 5/4/00 -0300, you wrote:
>At 11:53 04/05/00, you wrote:
>>Okay, the board is already soldered, so I can't dip it in any tinning
>>solution.  So, the $15 can is my best bet?
>>
>>Mike
>
>You can use hair spray (lacquer ?) that women uses to fix the hair in place.
>Grab it from your wife/sister/mother/whatever and give it a try, been there
>done that...
>BTW, don't forget to put it back :)


Gee, I was going to suggest using Kester "Protecto" coating, but
you guys seem to have it under control. ;-)


Best regards,

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2000\05\08@123021 by Alan B Pearce

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>
> I made a circuit boards, and now they're sitting there, with bare copper
> exposed to air.  I found some products used to coat boards to prevent
> shorts, but also thought oxidation may be a problem.  Has anyone had
> oxidation of bare copper boards?  The coatings in Mouser are $15/can,
> anyone found any cheaper solution?

Ordinary clear plastic lacquer spray from DIY works pretty good. A thin enough
coating will protect the board, and can be soldered through. I do not know about
the fumes from the plastic when soldering though, so use at your own risk.

2000\05\09@184958 by John Orhan

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Hi there,
Please don't laugh too hard as I found this one out by mixing some cans by
mistake. Cheap hair spray seems to actually work! To date nothing has
deteriorated.

{Original Message removed}

2000\05\09@214221 by Dan Michaels

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At 08:49 AM 5/10/00 +1000, you wrote:
>Hi there,
>Please don't laugh too hard as I found this one out by mixing some cans by
>mistake. Cheap hair spray seems to actually work! To date nothing has
>deteriorated.
>

I don't really know anything about the best way to solve this
problem, but it occurred to me you guys might check out the
flammability quotient of the different sprays/etc before using.
[maybe hold up a match, and pfffffft!!].

-------> reminds me of some guys I worked with who kept having
their embedded controller boards catch fire - turns out
metal-film resistors make great little fire starters. The std
paint used for coating burns real nice, and under the right
conditions the metal-film acts similar to a nice little heater
element. Probably even glows inside the paint.

Metal-oxide Rs, BTW, generally have better flame retardant coatings.

2000\05\10@170649 by Morgan Olsson

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John Orhan wrote:

>Hi there,
>Please don't laugh too hard as I found this one out by mixing some cans by
>mistake. Cheap hair spray seems to actually work!

But how did it go when you tried to comb your hair?  ;)

>To date nothing has
>deteriorated.

I don«t konow, but there might be some secret hair impregnating ingredients in the spray that i suspect are not ideal isolators, so better wash it off before using.  Before solderig, because we don«t know what heat do with theese...

/Morgan

2000\05\14@150611 by Alan B Pearce

face picon face
>
> I made a circuit boards, and now they're sitting there, with bare copper
> exposed to air.  I found some products used to coat boards to prevent
> shorts, but also thought oxidation may be a problem.  Has anyone had
> oxidation of bare copper boards?  The coatings in Mouser are $15/can,
> anyone found any cheaper solution?

Ordinary clear plastic lacquer spray from DIY works pretty good. A thin enough
coating will protect the board, and can be soldered through. I do not know about
the fumes from the plastic when soldering though, so use at your own risk.

2000\05\14@174144 by Brent Brown

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I used one "expensive" brand PCB conformal coating that softened
itself by its own solvent evaporation when placed in an airtight
enclosure (even after 2 days drying time). Now I use a even more
expensive product.

My thoughts are that the money you spend on protecting our PCB
needs to be justified by value of your product and the reliability you
want. The experts in dairy shed electronics tell me that if you want
to totally waterproof your PCB you need to dip it in thin silicon
rubber stuff (even more expensive). Two coatings required, use
silicon grease to stop the coating getting into switches and
terminals etc.

Brent Brown
Electronic Design Solutions
16 English Street
Hamilton, New Zealand
Ph/fax: +64 7 849 0069
Mobile: 025 334 069
eMail:  brent.brownspamspam_OUTclear.net.nz

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