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'[OT] How stuck is that PICcy in the window ?'
2000\02\23@201235 by Jinx

face picon face
(dreadfully limp pun)

Hi, I need to mount an electronic display smack in the middle of a
window. It weighs 240g, consisting of a PIC, PCB, thin plastic case,
LEDs, bits and pieces of label etc etc. Measures 8" x 8" x 1/2 "
The window is standard plate glass. The unit has to be fairly easily
removable at any time, possibly by a ham-fisted counter-minder.

Double-sided tape -- 4 pieces 10mm x 20mm, works OK, but I can't
put too much more on or it'll look ugly, and I think the heat of the sun
will get to it eventually

Suckers -- 4 small (22mm), they're OK, but they'll dry up. These are
wettable types, not bulb-pump. Are bulb-pump better ?

One option I thought of is to suspend the unit from the top of the frame
with thin black thread, to take the weight, and the sticking device just
holds the unit to the glass (it HAS to be held), but aside from that no
other attachment to the window is viable. Does anyone have ideas,
especially any fluid that could be used with the suckers that's more or
less permanent, like glycerine for example, or some other slow or non-
evaporating liquid.

TIA

2000\02\23@203112 by Ryan Pogge

flavicon
face
magnet on box ... magnet on other side of window...non slip rubber padding
to hold it against glass...
you can get VERY strong magnets...just dont know where


{Original Message removed}

2000\02\23@204415 by Wagner Lipnharski

picon face
Strong glue kind of Epoxy-Araldite or SuperGlue, attach 2 small hooks
directly to the glass (3mm glue spot).  Hung your board directly to the
hooks (holes at each top corner of the board). Some of those glues can
be easily removed from glass using a sharp rasor blade, some don't.
Customer can use the hooks to hung something else later...  or you can
charge them to remove the hooks. :)

2000\02\23@205018 by Andrew Hooper

flavicon
face
Liquid Latex will stick to glass and will function as a glue, when your
finished
it will just peel off without to many problems.

If you can afford a 8-12hr cure time then Clear Silicone should also provide
a
good stick to glass and also will peel off with little effort, unlike latex
this will
not discolour in the sunlight.

If you wanted to get really tricky you could mold the silicon with lots of
depressions
so it looks like the suckers on an octipuss tenticle, this would allow you
to use the
wet and stick principle.

With suction cups you may like to try Water and Detergent, or a form of oil,
Vasoline
is another option, and will not dry out, BUT if you put to much on the item
will have a
tendancey to slide down the window.

There are other glues aroung that will also do the job, you will just need
to scrape
them off later and you will have to watch that they dont fill the surface
holes and
imperfections on the glass.

Regards
Andrew

{Original Message removed}

2000\02\23@205227 by Dave VanHorn

flavicon
face
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>
>Hi, I need to mount an electronic display smack in the middle of a
>window. It weighs 240g, consisting of a PIC, PCB, thin plastic case,


Suction cup. 15 pounds per square inch theoretical, maybe 5psi as a
guaranteed practical.

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2000\02\24@030027 by Russell McMahon

picon face
Jinx,


Sounds like a through glass keyboard???

1.    You didn't say whether you are allowed a wire etc from the unit to eg
power supply (it may have inbuilt ;t power supply).
If a wire is allowed then you COULD use an airpump to provide suction.
Fishtank airpumps sell for around $NZ15 and have all the suck you need.
They can be set for variable power (usually blow). While they are usually a
bit noisy at full power they are reasonably quiet at lower powers. Power is
adjusted by changing armature travel on a  vibrator AFAIR,

2.    You could GLUE it to the window with cyanoacrylate glues.
These work quite well and the mess can (probably :-)) be cleaned off the
window afterwards. I haven't checked for long term etching etc but Loctite
have heaps of info on their site. Cyanoacrylates will NOT bond to alkaline
substrates (such as glass) forever but WILL do it for a very long time.
You'd have to check to see how they matched your need. Removal is easy
enough. Due to the inflexible nature of the adhesive, levering the joint
from the side places large stress and fails the adhesive progressively
whereas normal application of force across the whole joint results in a VERY
strong bond.




     Russell McMahon
_____________________________

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{Original Message removed}

2000\02\24@034019 by Lee Jones

flavicon
face
>> Hi, I need to mount an electronic display smack in the middle of a
>> window. It weighs 240g, consisting of a PIC, PCB, thin plastic case,
>> LEDs, bits and pieces of label etc etc. Measures 8" x 8" x 1/2 "
>> The window is standard plate glass. The unit has to be fairly easily
>> removable at any time, possibly by a ham-fisted counter-minder.

> You could GLUE it to the window with cyanoacrylate glues.

There's a special kit for reattaching mirror mounts to automobile
windshields.  It's cyanoacrylate adhesive.  I've seem some with a
pre-cleaner (don't know if it just a cleaner or a mild echtant)
as well as the glue.  Less than 1 square inch will hold against
road vibration and mirror adjustments for years.

Removal shouldn't be too bad if you slide a razor blade between
the glass and your unit.
                                               Lee Jones

2000\02\24@061444 by Clyde Smith-Stubbs

flavicon
face
On Thu, Feb 24, 2000 at 02:10:14PM +1300, Jinx wrote:

> Hi, I need to mount an electronic display smack in the middle of a
> window. It weighs 240g, consisting of a PIC, PCB, thin plastic case,
> The window is standard plate glass. The unit has to be fairly easily
> removable at any time, possibly by a ham-fisted counter-minder.

The two requirements are at odds with each other. The first can be
satisfied by using the glue that is used to stick rear-vision mirrors
onto the inside of windscreens, but it is not easily removable.


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2000\02\24@065711 by andy howard

flavicon
face
> On Thu, Feb 24, 2000 at 02:10:14PM +1300, Jinx wrote:
>
> > Hi, I need to mount an electronic display smack in the middle of a
> > window. It weighs 240g, consisting of a PIC, PCB, thin plastic case,
> > The window is standard plate glass. The unit has to be fairly easily
> > removable at any time, possibly by a ham-fisted counter-minder.
>
> The two requirements are at odds with each other. The first can be
> satisfied by using the glue that is used to stick rear-vision mirrors
> onto the inside of windscreens, but it is not easily removable.


Maybe he could glue a bracket to the window and clip the box to that.







.

2000\02\24@085321 by Jinx

face picon face
The unit is the base for an LED light chaser around an advertising
poster. The LEDs are mounted on foam board, which is very light
and no bother to hold up. The electronics have to be away from the
poster, but can't always be on the floor or hidden somewhere else

All of the suggestions are worth trying, and I could determine which
work better in different circumstances, such as DS tape in windows
that don't get direct sunlight, glues for more or less permanent
installations. Even combinations, such as suckers + small spots of
silicone. For the effect to be had, it's worth a little effort. I'll look
into any differences between plate and automotive glasses, perhaps
the superglues can be put to use in an auxilliary role, eg for the
foam board. And I was glad to be reminded of the bracket idea, which
came up once but I'd forgotten about. That would also make sense
with the poster - slip it into a pocket rather than dismantle the chaser

> 1.    You didn't say whether you are allowed a wire etc from the unit
> to eg power supply (it may have inbuilt power supply).

There's an external 5V supply, a thin black two-core. I tried a battery
+ solar panel but (a) a good crystalline one is too heavy/expensive and
(b) not many shop windows point upwards. None actually, so energy
collection is not good

The magnet idea is impractical for this window (I can imagine how
many of the outside ones would be left in the morning) but coincidentally
makes the best choice for another project I'm putting together that
can be framed - the magnets can go inside

I'll report back in a year or three

2000\02\24@114435 by Bill Pierce

picon face
<x-flowed>If you use thread, get upholstery thread. Its the strongest stuff out there.

Bill


{Quote hidden}

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2000\02\24@121531 by jamesnewton

face picon face
Stronger than dental floss?

---
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{Original Message removed}

2000\02\24@124455 by Bill Pierce

picon face
<x-flowed>I do believe it is stronger than dental floss. It also comes in flat black
so that it disappears against a dark background. It also works great for
floating things in the dark for halloween.

Bill


{Quote hidden}

>{Original Message removed}

2000\02\24@131645 by Tim Hamel

picon face
Hey, what about fishing line? Or...that rubbery stuff companies use to hold
the flap of their trial CD cover closed?

Regards,

Tim Hamel


In a message dated 2/24/00 9:45:22 AM Pacific Standard Time,
TakeThisOuTamberscreamsEraseMEspamspam_OUTHOTMAIL.COM writes:

> I do believe it is stronger than dental floss. It also comes in flat black
>  so that it disappears against a dark background. It also works great for
>  floating things in the dark for halloween.
>
>  Bill
>
>

2000\02\24@135853 by Wagner Lipnharski

picon face
...thinking better, I would use silicone glue spots, one in each corner,
8 to 10mm in diameter, it would hold pretty good your 200g device.  I
remember silicone glue can be found in clear, black or white colors, so
you choose the one that goes better with your board.  If the unit should
be removed sometimes, probably I would go to glue some small hook pins
with silicone to the glass, and hung the board to the hooks.

2000\02\24@141505 by mike

flavicon
face
On Wed, 23 Feb 2000 20:28:34 -0800, you wrote:

>magnet on box ... magnet on other side of window...non slip rubber padding
>to hold it against glass...
>you can get VERY strong magnets...just dont know where
Dead hard drives if you only want a few.
Do a web search for 'Neodymium Iron Boron'

2000\02\24@162600 by Mike Werner

picon face
On Fri, Feb 25, 2000 at 02:43:09AM +1300, Jinx wrote:
> into any differences between plate and automotive glasses, perhaps
> the superglues can be put to use in an auxilliary role, eg for the
> foam board. And I was glad to be reminded of the bracket idea, which

Warning: some CA glues will *eat* some types of foam.  If you want
to examine that route, make sure you do some testing with the foam
and CA glue beforehand. (oh yeah - CA is the common abbreviation for
cyanacrolyte [I *think* I spelled that right] which is the most
common superglue)

An adhesive that might also be worth looking into is the stuff used
to glue rearview mirrors onto the windshields of cars.  I know
absolutely nothing about them, but it popped into my mind as a
possibility.  After all, that stuff *is* designed to attach items
on a permanent basis to glass.
--
Mike Werner  KA8YSD           |  "Where do you want to go today?"
ICQ# 12934898                 |  "As far from Redmond as possible!"
'91 GS500E                    |
Morgantown WV                 |  Only dead fish go with the flow.

2000\02\24@163008 by Jinx

face picon face
>> Stronger than dental floss ?

> I do believe it is stronger than dental floss. It also comes in flat black
> so that it disappears against a dark background. It also works great for
> floating things in the dark for halloween.
>
> Bill

Teeth, for example

2000\02\24@205147 by William Chops Westfield

face picon face
   ... get upholstery thread. Its the strongest stuff out there.

Not any more.  If strength is required with minimum visibility, I'd look for
some of the advanced polymer fishing lines (kevlar, spectra, etc.)  Stronger
than steel, you know...

BillW

2000\02\25@124031 by Bill Pierce

picon face
<x-flowed>I used some of that fishing line and it is strong. It's also expensive and a
little shiny. The shiny part is the killer, the upholstry thread is
completely flat black.

Bill


{Quote hidden}

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