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'[OT] How stuck is that PICcy in the window ?'
2000\02\23@201235
by
Jinx
(dreadfully limp pun)
Hi, I need to mount an electronic display smack in the middle of a
window. It weighs 240g, consisting of a PIC, PCB, thin plastic case,
LEDs, bits and pieces of label etc etc. Measures 8" x 8" x 1/2 "
The window is standard plate glass. The unit has to be fairly easily
removable at any time, possibly by a ham-fisted counter-minder.
Double-sided tape -- 4 pieces 10mm x 20mm, works OK, but I can't
put too much more on or it'll look ugly, and I think the heat of the sun
will get to it eventually
Suckers -- 4 small (22mm), they're OK, but they'll dry up. These are
wettable types, not bulb-pump. Are bulb-pump better ?
One option I thought of is to suspend the unit from the top of the frame
with thin black thread, to take the weight, and the sticking device just
holds the unit to the glass (it HAS to be held), but aside from that no
other attachment to the window is viable. Does anyone have ideas,
especially any fluid that could be used with the suckers that's more or
less permanent, like glycerine for example, or some other slow or non-
evaporating liquid.
TIA
2000\02\23@203112
by
Ryan Pogge
magnet on box ... magnet on other side of window...non slip rubber padding
to hold it against glass...
you can get VERY strong magnets...just dont know where
{Original Message removed}
2000\02\23@204415
by
Wagner Lipnharski
Strong glue kind of Epoxy-Araldite or SuperGlue, attach 2 small hooks
directly to the glass (3mm glue spot). Hung your board directly to the
hooks (holes at each top corner of the board). Some of those glues can
be easily removed from glass using a sharp rasor blade, some don't.
Customer can use the hooks to hung something else later... or you can
charge them to remove the hooks. :)
2000\02\23@205018
by
Andrew Hooper
|
Liquid Latex will stick to glass and will function as a glue, when your
finished
it will just peel off without to many problems.
If you can afford a 8-12hr cure time then Clear Silicone should also provide
a
good stick to glass and also will peel off with little effort, unlike latex
this will
not discolour in the sunlight.
If you wanted to get really tricky you could mold the silicon with lots of
depressions
so it looks like the suckers on an octipuss tenticle, this would allow you
to use the
wet and stick principle.
With suction cups you may like to try Water and Detergent, or a form of oil,
Vasoline
is another option, and will not dry out, BUT if you put to much on the item
will have a
tendancey to slide down the window.
There are other glues aroung that will also do the job, you will just need
to scrape
them off later and you will have to watch that they dont fill the surface
holes and
imperfections on the glass.
Regards
Andrew
{Original Message removed}
2000\02\23@205227
by
Dave VanHorn
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>
>Hi, I need to mount an electronic display smack in the middle of a
>window. It weighs 240g, consisting of a PIC, PCB, thin plastic case,
Suction cup. 15 pounds per square inch theoretical, maybe 5psi as a
guaranteed practical.
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2000\02\24@030027
by
Russell McMahon
|
Jinx,
Sounds like a through glass keyboard???
1. You didn't say whether you are allowed a wire etc from the unit to eg
power supply (it may have inbuilt ;t power supply).
If a wire is allowed then you COULD use an airpump to provide suction.
Fishtank airpumps sell for around $NZ15 and have all the suck you need.
They can be set for variable power (usually blow). While they are usually a
bit noisy at full power they are reasonably quiet at lower powers. Power is
adjusted by changing armature travel on a vibrator AFAIR,
2. You could GLUE it to the window with cyanoacrylate glues.
These work quite well and the mess can (probably :-)) be cleaned off the
window afterwards. I haven't checked for long term etching etc but Loctite
have heaps of info on their site. Cyanoacrylates will NOT bond to alkaline
substrates (such as glass) forever but WILL do it for a very long time.
You'd have to check to see how they matched your need. Removal is easy
enough. Due to the inflexible nature of the adhesive, levering the joint
from the side places large stress and fails the adhesive progressively
whereas normal application of force across the whole joint results in a VERY
strong bond.
Russell McMahon
_____________________________
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What can one man* do?
Help the hungry at no cost to yourself!
at http://www.thehungersite.com/
(* - or woman, child or internet enabled intelligent entity :-))
{Original Message removed}
2000\02\24@034019
by
Lee Jones
>> Hi, I need to mount an electronic display smack in the middle of a
>> window. It weighs 240g, consisting of a PIC, PCB, thin plastic case,
>> LEDs, bits and pieces of label etc etc. Measures 8" x 8" x 1/2 "
>> The window is standard plate glass. The unit has to be fairly easily
>> removable at any time, possibly by a ham-fisted counter-minder.
> You could GLUE it to the window with cyanoacrylate glues.
There's a special kit for reattaching mirror mounts to automobile
windshields. It's cyanoacrylate adhesive. I've seem some with a
pre-cleaner (don't know if it just a cleaner or a mild echtant)
as well as the glue. Less than 1 square inch will hold against
road vibration and mirror adjustments for years.
Removal shouldn't be too bad if you slide a razor blade between
the glass and your unit.
Lee Jones
2000\02\24@061444
by
Clyde Smith-Stubbs
On Thu, Feb 24, 2000 at 02:10:14PM +1300, Jinx wrote:
> Hi, I need to mount an electronic display smack in the middle of a
> window. It weighs 240g, consisting of a PIC, PCB, thin plastic case,
> The window is standard plate glass. The unit has to be fairly easily
> removable at any time, possibly by a ham-fisted counter-minder.
The two requirements are at odds with each other. The first can be
satisfied by using the glue that is used to stick rear-vision mirrors
onto the inside of windscreens, but it is not easily removable.
--
Clyde Smith-Stubbs | HI-TECH Software
Email: spam_OUTclydeTakeThisOuT
htsoft.com | Phone Fax
WWW: http://www.htsoft.com/ | USA: (408) 490 2885 (408) 490 2885
PGP: finger .....clydeKILLspam
@spam@htsoft.com | AUS: +61 7 3355 8333 +61 7 3355 8334
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
HI-TECH C: compiling the real world.
2000\02\24@065711
by
andy howard
> On Thu, Feb 24, 2000 at 02:10:14PM +1300, Jinx wrote:
>
> > Hi, I need to mount an electronic display smack in the middle of a
> > window. It weighs 240g, consisting of a PIC, PCB, thin plastic case,
> > The window is standard plate glass. The unit has to be fairly easily
> > removable at any time, possibly by a ham-fisted counter-minder.
>
> The two requirements are at odds with each other. The first can be
> satisfied by using the glue that is used to stick rear-vision mirrors
> onto the inside of windscreens, but it is not easily removable.
Maybe he could glue a bracket to the window and clip the box to that.
.
2000\02\24@085321
by
Jinx
The unit is the base for an LED light chaser around an advertising
poster. The LEDs are mounted on foam board, which is very light
and no bother to hold up. The electronics have to be away from the
poster, but can't always be on the floor or hidden somewhere else
All of the suggestions are worth trying, and I could determine which
work better in different circumstances, such as DS tape in windows
that don't get direct sunlight, glues for more or less permanent
installations. Even combinations, such as suckers + small spots of
silicone. For the effect to be had, it's worth a little effort. I'll look
into any differences between plate and automotive glasses, perhaps
the superglues can be put to use in an auxilliary role, eg for the
foam board. And I was glad to be reminded of the bracket idea, which
came up once but I'd forgotten about. That would also make sense
with the poster - slip it into a pocket rather than dismantle the chaser
> 1. You didn't say whether you are allowed a wire etc from the unit
> to eg power supply (it may have inbuilt power supply).
There's an external 5V supply, a thin black two-core. I tried a battery
+ solar panel but (a) a good crystalline one is too heavy/expensive and
(b) not many shop windows point upwards. None actually, so energy
collection is not good
The magnet idea is impractical for this window (I can imagine how
many of the outside ones would be left in the morning) but coincidentally
makes the best choice for another project I'm putting together that
can be framed - the magnets can go inside
I'll report back in a year or three
2000\02\24@114435
by
Bill Pierce
|
<x-flowed>If you use thread, get upholstery thread. Its the strongest stuff out there.
Bill
{Quote hidden}>From: Jinx <
joecolquitt
KILLspamCLEAR.NET.NZ>
>Reply-To: pic microcontroller discussion list <
.....PICLISTKILLspam
.....MITVMA.MIT.EDU>
>To:
EraseMEPICLISTspam_OUT
TakeThisOuTMITVMA.MIT.EDU
>Subject: [OT] How stuck is that PICcy in the window ?
>Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2000 14:10:14 +1300
>
>(dreadfully limp pun)
>
>Hi, I need to mount an electronic display smack in the middle of a
>window. It weighs 240g, consisting of a PIC, PCB, thin plastic case,
>LEDs, bits and pieces of label etc etc. Measures 8" x 8" x 1/2 "
>The window is standard plate glass. The unit has to be fairly easily
>removable at any time, possibly by a ham-fisted counter-minder.
>
>Double-sided tape -- 4 pieces 10mm x 20mm, works OK, but I can't
>put too much more on or it'll look ugly, and I think the heat of the sun
>will get to it eventually
>
>Suckers -- 4 small (22mm), they're OK, but they'll dry up. These are
>wettable types, not bulb-pump. Are bulb-pump better ?
>
>One option I thought of is to suspend the unit from the top of the frame
>with thin black thread, to take the weight, and the sticking device just
>holds the unit to the glass (it HAS to be held), but aside from that no
>other attachment to the window is viable. Does anyone have ideas,
>especially any fluid that could be used with the suckers that's more or
>less permanent, like glycerine for example, or some other slow or non-
>evaporating liquid.
>
>TIA
______________________________________________________
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</x-flowed>
2000\02\24@121531
by
jamesnewton
2000\02\24@124455
by
Bill Pierce
<x-flowed>I do believe it is stronger than dental floss. It also comes in flat black
so that it disappears against a dark background. It also works great for
floating things in the dark for halloween.
Bill
{Quote hidden}
>{Original Message removed}
2000\02\24@131645
by
Tim Hamel
Hey, what about fishing line? Or...that rubbery stuff companies use to hold
the flap of their trial CD cover closed?
Regards,
Tim Hamel
In a message dated 2/24/00 9:45:22 AM Pacific Standard Time,
TakeThisOuTamberscreamsEraseME
spam_OUTHOTMAIL.COM writes:
> I do believe it is stronger than dental floss. It also comes in flat black
> so that it disappears against a dark background. It also works great for
> floating things in the dark for halloween.
>
> Bill
>
>
2000\02\24@135853
by
Wagner Lipnharski
...thinking better, I would use silicone glue spots, one in each corner,
8 to 10mm in diameter, it would hold pretty good your 200g device. I
remember silicone glue can be found in clear, black or white colors, so
you choose the one that goes better with your board. If the unit should
be removed sometimes, probably I would go to glue some small hook pins
with silicone to the glass, and hung the board to the hooks.
2000\02\24@141505
by
mike
On Wed, 23 Feb 2000 20:28:34 -0800, you wrote:
>magnet on box ... magnet on other side of window...non slip rubber padding
>to hold it against glass...
>you can get VERY strong magnets...just dont know where
Dead hard drives if you only want a few.
Do a web search for 'Neodymium Iron Boron'
2000\02\24@162600
by
Mike Werner
|
On Fri, Feb 25, 2000 at 02:43:09AM +1300, Jinx wrote:
> into any differences between plate and automotive glasses, perhaps
> the superglues can be put to use in an auxilliary role, eg for the
> foam board. And I was glad to be reminded of the bracket idea, which
Warning: some CA glues will *eat* some types of foam. If you want
to examine that route, make sure you do some testing with the foam
and CA glue beforehand. (oh yeah - CA is the common abbreviation for
cyanacrolyte [I *think* I spelled that right] which is the most
common superglue)
An adhesive that might also be worth looking into is the stuff used
to glue rearview mirrors onto the windshields of cars. I know
absolutely nothing about them, but it popped into my mind as a
possibility. After all, that stuff *is* designed to attach items
on a permanent basis to glass.
--
Mike Werner KA8YSD | "Where do you want to go today?"
ICQ# 12934898 | "As far from Redmond as possible!"
'91 GS500E |
Morgantown WV | Only dead fish go with the flow.
2000\02\24@163008
by
Jinx
>> Stronger than dental floss ?
> I do believe it is stronger than dental floss. It also comes in flat black
> so that it disappears against a dark background. It also works great for
> floating things in the dark for halloween.
>
> Bill
Teeth, for example
2000\02\24@205147
by
William Chops Westfield
... get upholstery thread. Its the strongest stuff out there.
Not any more. If strength is required with minimum visibility, I'd look for
some of the advanced polymer fishing lines (kevlar, spectra, etc.) Stronger
than steel, you know...
BillW
2000\02\25@124031
by
Bill Pierce
<x-flowed>I used some of that fishing line and it is strong. It's also expensive and a
little shiny. The shiny part is the killer, the upholstry thread is
completely flat black.
Bill
{Quote hidden}>From: William Chops Westfield <
RemoveMEbillw
TakeThisOuTCISCO.COM>
>Reply-To: pic microcontroller discussion list <
PICLISTEraseME
.....MITVMA.MIT.EDU>
>To:
EraseMEPICLIST
MITVMA.MIT.EDU
>Subject: Re: [OT] How stuck is that PICcy in the window ?
>Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2000 17:51:48 PST
>
> ... get upholstery thread. Its the strongest stuff out there.
>
>Not any more. If strength is required with minimum visibility, I'd look
>for
>some of the advanced polymer fishing lines (kevlar, spectra, etc.)
>Stronger
>than steel, you know...
>
>BillW
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