Searching \ for '[OT] Car Repair Forums' in subject line. ()
Make payments with PayPal - it's fast, free and secure! Help us get a faster server
FAQ page: www.piclist.com/techref/index.htm?key=car+repair+forums
Search entire site for: 'Car Repair Forums'.

Exact match. Not showing close matches.
PICList Thread
'[OT] Car Repair Forums'
2007\02\12@121127 by Aaron

picon face
Can anybody recommend any good car repair forums?

Aaron

2007\02\12@122924 by Alex Harford

face picon face
On 2/12/07, Aaron <spam_OUTaaron.groupsTakeThisOuTspamgmail.com> wrote:
> Can anybody recommend any good car repair forums?

What kind of car?  I find that going to the specific car site is
really helpful, for example miata.net or thirdgen.org
(Firebirds/Camaros), because you get the specific tips for the
make/model, plus there are lots of people with general knowledge that
are willing to help you out because you share a common bond.

For troubleshooting fuel injection / electronics, diy-efi.org is the
place to go.

Alex

2007\02\12@123631 by Picbits Sales

flavicon
face
What car / country ?

Makes all the difference.

Dom
----- Original Message -----
From: "Aaron" <.....aaron.groupsKILLspamspam@spam@gmail.com>
To: <piclistspamKILLspammit.edu>
Sent: Monday, February 12, 2007 5:11 PM
Subject: [OT] Car Repair Forums


> Can anybody recommend any good car repair forums?
>
> Aaron
> --

2007\02\12@135208 by Nigel Duckworth

picon face
This site has been useful to me for technical information;

http://www.autozone.com/


Aaron wrote:
>  
> Can anybody recommend any good car repair forums?
>
> Aaron
>  

2007\02\12@171331 by Aaron

picon face


Alex Harford wrote:

>On 2/12/07, Aaron <.....aaron.groupsKILLspamspam.....gmail.com> wrote:
>  
>
>>Can anybody recommend any good car repair forums?
>>    
>>
>
>What kind of car?  
>
Actually it is a minivan; a 2000 Chevrolet Venture. I doubt there are
too many minivan ethusiast sites around. :) At least google wasn't too
helpful.

I've posted my question on the forums at http://www.trustmymechanic.com and
http://www.carjunky.com, but no resposes so far, so I'll post it here in hopes
some kind soul can shed some light on the problem. It is also a bit of
ethics question, so perhaps that will help get some comments.

A noise recently developed on the above-mentioned vehicle. It is a
clicking noise that gets faster and louder as the vehicle goes faster.
When stopped, with the engine running, there is no noise.

Last week, a local shop used a “chassis ear” to diagnose the problem as
the left front wheel bearing. In addition to $100 to diagnose the
problem, they wanted $325 for the replacement part and $120 to install
it. I thought their price was too steep and I told them not to do the
repair.

On Saturday, I bought a new hub and bearing assembly at the local parts
store for $120 and installed it myself. Problem is, the noise is still
there, unchanged. I called the local shop and politely expressed my
displeasure in their misdiagnosis. They offered to take another look for
the problem or refund my $100 diagnosis fee. I decided to give them
another chance and will take the vehicle back to tomorrow. When I talked
to him this morning, the guy at the shop seemed to be extremely
confident that the noise is coming from the left front tire area.

Any thoughts on what the problem might? Could it be a CV joint? I
certainly don’t hear any clunking noises when turning.

Any thoughts on what the responsibility of the local shop should be
towards correcting their misdiagnosis? What do you think of my ethical
obligations to compensate the shop for their time in this situation?

Aaron

2007\02\12@171355 by Aaron

picon face


Picbits Sales wrote:

>What car / country ?
>
>  
>

2000 Chevrolet Venture, USA

2007\02\12@180142 by David VanHorn

picon face
>
>
> A noise recently developed on the above-mentioned vehicle. It is a
> clicking noise that gets faster and louder as the vehicle goes faster.
> When stopped, with the engine running, there is no noise.


Does it happen in neutral?  If so, not drive train.


> On Saturday, I bought a new hub and bearing assembly at the local parts
> store for $120 and installed it myself. Problem is, the noise is still
> there, unchanged. I called the local shop and politely expressed my
> displeasure in their misdiagnosis. They offered to take another look for
> the problem or refund my $100 diagnosis fee.


Hmm.. Seems like ferengi rules of aquisition.

If you can put it on jackstands, you can then rotate the wheel manually, and
maybe isolate where it's coming from.

>
> Any thoughts on what the problem might? Could it be a CV joint? I
> certainly don't hear any clunking noises when turning.


I say you put the AE35 unit back in, and let it fail.


Any thoughts on what the responsibility of the local shop should be
> towards correcting their misdiagnosis? What do you think of my ethical
> obligations to compensate the shop for their time in this situation?


What's a wrong diagnosis worth?

2007\02\12@182453 by Robert Rolf

picon face
In as much as the local shop charged you to 'diagnose' the problem,
they have a contractual responsibility to have gotten it RIGHT.
They DIDN'T so you should be entitled to a refund of the fee.
A second visit is probably pointless since they were obviously wrong the
first time.

Does the Noise get louder or more 'claky' when the vehicle is being accelerated?
Does it 'clunk' when you take your foot off the accelerator?
It the noise much worse when turning a corner? Worse turning one way than another?
All of the above are signs of a worn CV joint (I've had several now, and replaced
them myself, but on Chrysler vans. I assume other vans behave similarly).

You can also jack up the wheel of the van, LOADING the strut when you do.
e.g. jack under the main steering knuckle,
and with parking brake on, put the unit into gear and let the wheel spin.
As you turn the steering wheel the noise will markedly change, and you will
also be able to detect free play when rotating the tire back and forth while in park.

Good luck with your repair. CV joint's can be a bugger to replace.
Make sure you properly support the free end when inserting back into the trany,
or you may damage the joint.

Robert


Aaron wrote:
{Quote hidden}

> Aaron

2007\02\12@201910 by Aaron

picon face


Robert Rolf wrote:

>Does the Noise get louder or more 'claky' when the vehicle is being accelerated?
>Does it 'clunk' when you take your foot off the accelerator?
>It the noise much worse when turning a corner? Worse turning one way than another?
>All of the above are signs of a worn CV joint (I've had several now, and replaced
>them myself, but on Chrysler vans. I assume other vans behave similarly).
>  
>

No to all of the above questions.

>You can also jack up the wheel of the van, LOADING the strut when you do.
>e.g. jack under the main steering knuckle,
>and with parking brake on, put the unit into gear and let the wheel spin.
>  
>
I can't hear anything when spinning, but I was jacking under the frame.  
Strut unloaded.

>As you turn the steering wheel the noise will markedly change, and you will
>also be able to detect free play when rotating the tire back and forth while in park.
>
>Good luck with your repair. CV joint's can be a bugger to replace.
>Make sure you properly support the free end when inserting back into the trany,
>or you may damage the joint.
>
>Robert
>

Thanks.
Aaron

2007\02\12@201915 by Aaron

picon face


David VanHorn wrote:

{Quote hidden}

Yes, if coasting.
No, if stopped.

{Quote hidden}

I can't hear anything when manually rotating tire.  Neither with engine
running and wheel spinning while in gear and jacked up.  Seems like
weight must be on tire for the noise to be present.

>What's a wrong diagnosis worth?
>  
>


negative $220?

Aaron

2007\02\13@020952 by Nigel Duckworth

picon face
I've got a similar noise with my 1989 Volvo 740, it's a road speed
related click/burrr sound which disappears below walking pace and is
still present when coasting. It sounded to be coming from the rear so I
fitted a second-hand rear axle and then new rear wheel bearings with no
improvement. As time went on the sound got worse and then appeared to be
coming from the front so I checked the front wheel bearings and whilst
doing so discovered movement in the strut top bearings, I'm convinced
this is the source but have yet to change them.

If your minivan uses suspension struts with top bearings then place a
finger on the very top (inside the wing) whilst bouncing the suspension
and see if you can feel movement.

Good luck.

Nigel    



Aaron wrote:
{Quote hidden}

2007\02\13@041955 by James Nick Sears

flavicon
face
BTW, If you ever need a forum for that 1989 Volvo,
brickboard.com is incredible.  Maybe it would be helpful indirectly  
to the OP as well somehow.

-n.


On Feb 13, 2007, at 2:06 AM, Nigel Duckworth wrote:

{Quote hidden}

> -

2007\02\13@044840 by Nigel Duckworth

picon face
I am aware of this forum thanks Nick, SwedishBricks is another good one
and also the UK Owners Club;

http://www.swedishbricks.net/

http://www.volvoclub.org.uk/index.shtml

Nigel




James Nick Sears wrote:
> BTW, If you ever need a forum for that 1989 Volvo,
> brickboard.com is incredible.  Maybe it would be helpful indirectly  
> to the OP as well somehow.
>
> -n.
>
>  

2007\02\13@072446 by Master Yager

picon face
Hi, I've worked on those mini-vans a lot.  It is the CV joint and most
likely the ground from the engine to the frame is bad. this will cause the
current from the alt to go through the CV joints to your heater, headlights
and so on. while it is moving, the balls in the joint will have a constant
arc and put little pits in them. this is the clicking/ticking while moving.
it needs to have pressure on it or the grease will keep it quiet.
Pete


On 2/13/07, Nigel Duckworth <KILLspamnduckworthKILLspamspamcompuserve.com> wrote:
{Quote hidden}

> -

2007\02\13@080853 by PicDude

flavicon
face
On Monday 12 February 2007 16:13, Aaron wrote:
> Actually it is a minivan; a 2000 Chevrolet Venture. I doubt there are
> too many minivan ethusiast sites around. :) At least google wasn't too
> helpful.

Probably not, but you'll find sites that are dedicated to Chevy vans in
general, or sites for other Chevy vehicles that share suspension and or
powertrain components with the Venture.  So, look at the Haynes or Chilton's
manual titles for see which other vehicles are covered under with the Venture
in one manual, and that'll give you an idea of which other vehicles share
most of the components/systems with the Venture.

Also, Chevy may have sold the Venture under different model names under the
Pontiac or GMC brands.  Look for forums for those also.


> A noise recently developed on the above-mentioned vehicle. It is a
> clicking noise that gets faster and louder as the vehicle goes faster.
> When stopped, with the engine running, there is no noise.

I assume if you coast (with the vehicle at speed, put it in neutral, so the
engine RPM's fall back to idle, but the vehicle still moving), the noise is
still there?  Verify that the noise varies with vehicle speed and not with
engine RPM, and you can isolate it to the drivetrain/wheels.

Next, have someone else stand outside the car while you drive slowly to induce
the noise.  Between both of you, try to figure out which side of the vehicle
it's coming from.  If the left front, jack up that wheel and spin it manually
until you hear the noise.  You may need to put it in neutral if it's FWD.

Once you find the general location, inspect everything and clean everything.  
It could be some debris/dirt that was picked up on the road.  You can pull
off the brake caliper and spin the wheel to see if that stops the noise.  
Essentially, you want to narrow down the source.


> Any thoughts on what the problem might? Could it be a CV joint? I
> certainly don’t hear any clunking noises when turning.

Doubt it.  Find a parking lot and stop.  Lock the wheel in one direction and
slowly accelerate.  If a CV joint, you'll hear the clicking louder.  Try the
other direction.  In a straight line, CV joints will barely make a noise.

-Neil.


2007\02\13@100731 by Jamesp

picon face

Alex,

If this is a front wheel drive vehicle, you may have a bad CV (Constant
Velocity) joint.  This is what allows the wheel to drive the vehicle, and
yet be able to turn to steer the car.   I'm not sure if that is what you
are talking about here, but if not, check it out.   Also, it could be the
inside U joint that drives the half shaft that drives the front wheel.
So don't forget to check these too.


                                                  Regards,

                                                    Jim

{Quote hidden}

> -

More... (looser matching)
- Last day of these posts
- In 2007 , 2008 only
- Today
- New search...