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PICList Thread
'[OT] Best PC Board Etching Resist Method'
1999\05\22@034045 by Mik Kim

It's the fumes. After thinner does it's thing, stuff still have to be
removed with paper towel. Maybe I was seeing things due to fumes, too. I
got a quart can of laquer thinner from hardware store for less than
$5.00 and this will last me many thousands of boards.

Fumes do wonders for brain cells, too (I'd rather kill them with
alcohol). Is there any other way to remove PnP besides this? Scrubbing
with copper wool isn't an option.

Bob Blick wrote:
{Quote hidden}

'[OT] Best PC Board Etching Resist Method'
1999\11\27@085427 by Bill Kichman
Regarding removal of toner from the etched board, I find that acetone is
king.  Available in a gallon can at your local building supply superstore
pretty cheap.  For paper, I and others have researched this and located a
very good paper for the toner method.  It has different trade names, but the
one I purchased is called MEAD 70 pound GLOSS.  IT looks like shiny magazine
paper, only much heavier.  Works great every time and it's cheap.  For heat
pressing, I use a 4 roller laminator,  it was under $100 brand new, Royal
PL2000 purchased at Costco.  It handles a double sided board with 2 toner
sheets with no problems.  Only thing is, it requires 4 passes, which are no
problem really.   The motor can be modified with a PIC circuit using a solid
state relay or triac pretty cheaply (another PICBASIC poster did it
already).  Drill with a Dremel and drill press attachment, using carbite
bits- works great.
In short, the method I use works absolutely perfect, all except for a lack
of plated thru holes.  Can't have evereything I guess. :-)
Happy Plating,

Bill Kichman, P.E.
Cornwall, PA USA
{Original Message removed}

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