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'[OT] : How does my first PCB look?'
2009\02\18@023711
by
Jinx
> Dual-layer PCBs are overrated, anyway -- unless you can get the
> second layer free. :)
The last two times I got stock, one was from a Dick Smith sell-out
(ah, words that go together) and they were throwing out dirt cheap
what they had left, A5 double-sided. Presumably nobody wanted it
as much as single-sided. The other was from the scraps bin, very
useable scraps actually, of a board house. I was told the only single-
sided they use is phenolic, and not all that often. Otherwise all their
stock is GRP double-sided. So all my home-made second layers will
be free for the foreseeable future. Not that I don't use single-sided
when possible, it's wasteful to etch a whole unused layer off
2009\02\18@052004
by
Vitaliy
Jinx wrote:
>> Dual-layer PCBs are overrated, anyway -- unless you can get the
>> second layer free. :)
>
> The last two times I got stock, one was from a Dick Smith sell-out
> (ah, words that go together) and they were throwing out dirt cheap
> what they had left, A5 double-sided. Presumably nobody wanted it
> as much as single-sided. The other was from the scraps bin, very
> useable scraps actually, of a board house. I was told the only single-
> sided they use is phenolic, and not all that often. Otherwise all their
> stock is GRP double-sided. So all my home-made second layers will
> be free for the foreseeable future. Not that I don't use single-sided
> when possible, it's wasteful to etch a whole unused layer off
I meant if you get the board from a board house. I think doing dual layer
PCBs by hand is too much hassle, better to have a few jumper wires. IMO, it
only makes sense when you have to have parts on both sides.
Vitaliy
2009\02\18@063923
by
Jinx
> I meant if you get the board from a board house
Ah, yes. Just from local experience, the board house start with double-
sided stock anyway so the customer can choose to use it, or not
> I think doing dual layer PCBs by hand is too much hassle, better to
> have a few jumper wires. IMO, it only makes sense when you have
> to have parts on both sides
Would generally agree. Some double-sided home-mades can be quite
tricky. Not impossible but there's an extra level of care needed. For
example large DIPs with paralleled pins, like memories, are easier to
route with tracks on both sides
Don't want to re-hash the recent discussion, but personally I'll have a
go at any board at home if there's a reasonable chance of success. In
the last few years the only board that didn't work out after several tries
was an adapter for an SMT 60-pin micro connector. The board itself
wasn't the real problem, although laying out 0.5mm traces by hand was
hard enough.. It was that the connector was made of heat-sensitive
plastic that deformed badly when soldered, even with great care. I gave
up eventually and added the footprint to a board that was being pick-and-
placed. The assemblers did a good job. Lesson learned
2009\02\18@125518
by
Bob Blick
On Wed, 18 Feb 2009 20:36:57 +1200, "Jinx" <spam_OUTjoecolquittTakeThisOuT
clear.net.nz>
said:
> stock is GRP double-sided. So all my home-made second layers will
> be free for the foreseeable future. Not that I don't use single-sided
> when possible, it's wasteful to etch a whole unused layer off
Many times what I do is use the second layer as a ground plane.
Tape the ground plane side, etch the real side, peel off the tape, drill
the holes.
Then remove the copper on the ground plane side at non-ground holes
using a special flat drill bit with pilot.
I've seen those drill bits commercially but I have always made them from
broken drill bits. Chuck it in a drill press, spin it up, make the pilot
with a dremel tool and cutoff wheel. Then by hand, add a bit of cutting
angle with the cutoff wheel.
Cheerful regards,
Bob
--
http://www.fastmail.fm - Same, same, but different...
2009\02\23@042645
by
Vitaliy
Bob Blick wrote:
>> stock is GRP double-sided. So all my home-made second layers will
>> be free for the foreseeable future. Not that I don't use single-sided
>> when possible, it's wasteful to etch a whole unused layer off
>
> Many times what I do is use the second layer as a ground plane.
>
> Tape the ground plane side, etch the real side, peel off the tape, drill
> the holes.
>
> Then remove the copper on the ground plane side at non-ground holes
> using a special flat drill bit with pilot.
>
> I've seen those drill bits commercially but I have always made them from
> broken drill bits. Chuck it in a drill press, spin it up, make the pilot
> with a dremel tool and cutoff wheel. Then by hand, add a bit of cutting
> angle with the cutoff wheel.
Fascinating. Can you explain the last sentence?
Vitaliy
2009\02\23@045303
by
Jinx
> Chuck it in a drill press, spin it up, make the pilot with a dremel tool
> and cutoff wheel. Then by hand, add a bit of cutting angle with the
> cutoff wheel.
>
> Fascinating. Can you explain the last sentence?
Sounds like a pointy spot-weld bit
http://www.autobodysupplies.com/titanium-spot-weld-bit.gif
or a milling bit with a point
2009\02\23@095945
by
Bob Blick
part 1 640 bytes content-type:text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1" (decoded 7bit)
On Mon, 23 Feb 2009 02:25:56 -0700, "Vitaliy" <.....spamKILLspam
@spam@maksimov.org> said:
> Bob Blick wrote:
> > I've seen those drill bits commercially but I have always made them from
> > broken drill bits. Chuck it in a drill press, spin it up, make the pilot
> > with a dremel tool and cutoff wheel. Then by hand, add a bit of cutting
> > angle with the cutoff wheel.
>
> Fascinating. Can you explain the last sentence?
They say a picture is worth a thousand words, see attached.
Cheers,
Bob
--
http://www.fastmail.fm - A no graphics, no pop-ups email service
part 2 16971 bytes content-type:image/jpeg; name="special_drill_bit.jpg" (decode)

part 3 35 bytes content-type:text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
(decoded 7bit)
2009\02\25@034507
by
Vitaliy
Bob Blick wrote:
>> > I've seen those drill bits commercially but I have always made them
>> > from
>> > broken drill bits. Chuck it in a drill press, spin it up, make the
>> > pilot
>> > with a dremel tool and cutoff wheel. Then by hand, add a bit of cutting
>> > angle with the cutoff wheel.
>>
>> Fascinating. Can you explain the last sentence?
>
> They say a picture is worth a thousand words, see attached.
Indeed. Thanks!
Vitaliy
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