Searching \ for '[OT]: non-conductive 'hot glue'' in subject line. ()
Make payments with PayPal - it's fast, free and secure! Help us get a faster server
FAQ page: www.piclist.com/techref/index.htm?key=non+conductive+hot
Search entire site for: 'non-conductive 'hot glue''.

Exact match. Not showing close matches.
PICList Thread
'[OT]: non-conductive 'hot glue''
2001\06\01@105409 by Kevin Olalde

picon face
I'm about to build my first circuit.  I've read a few times on this list
that hot glue can be conductive.  Any advice on how to keep components
in place while soldering.  This is also my first attempt at soldering.

I bread boarded a simple circuit and now want to transfer it to perf
board and put it into a project box.

Thanks,

Kevin

--
http://www.piclist.com hint: PICList Posts must start with ONE topic:
[PIC]:,[SX]:,[AVR]: ->uP ONLY! [EE]:,[OT]: ->Other [BUY]:,[AD]: ->Ads


2001\06\01@110212 by Alan B. Pearce

face picon face
I would suggest the glue used for surface mount components.

--
http://www.piclist.com hint: PICList Posts must start with ONE topic:
[PIC]:,[SX]:,[AVR]: ->uP ONLY! [EE]:,[OT]: ->Other [BUY]:,[AD]: ->Ads


2001\06\01@114657 by Dal Wheeler

flavicon
face
One doesn't typically need to glue down components to the perfboard --I'm
assuming your using through-hole parts.
Usually the solder itself is sufficent to hold the part in place; unless you
have a particularly large cap or something.  Get yourself a nice panavise to
hold the board on its side and nudge the part into place while you tack down
with the solder.  Once the part is positioned where you want it, do a nicer
job making electrical connections; solder joints should be shiney when cool.
You'll get the hang of it once you get to doing it. Also, be careful to not
overheat the leads on the smaller semiconductors --a couple of seconds
should be more than enough to get a good joint.

What are you building?
Good luck!
-Dal

Oh, yea --Don't try to catch the hot soldering iron if it falls off the
workbench.  :)
{Original Message removed}

2001\06\01@124157 by Kevin Olalde

picon face
Thanks for the advice, it never dawned on my to do the work with the
board on its side.

I am using through hole parts.  I've built a water sensor, we had a
little leak last week that was a bigger problem than it should've been
only because nobody noticed the leak as soon as it started.

The sensor will start a piezo  buzzer and start a 555 circuit to
open/close a relay that'll close contacts on a spare X10 RF trasmitter.
The X10 signal is picked up by a PC based home automation controller
that'll get someone's attention.  I might replace the 555 with a PIC
later.

Kevin

Dal Wheeler wrote:
{Quote hidden}

> {Original Message removed}

2001\06\01@174429 by Lawrence Lile

flavicon
face
Kevin,

Here's how I solder components:

Method 1:  Insert the component and bend the leads out with your fingers, in
a way that holds it into the perfboard.  Flip the board over, clamp it into
a panavise, and solder the component into a pad.  You can get creative with
using the leads to run to the next component.

Method 2:  For components with leads too short for method 1.  Insert the
component into the perfboard, and apply some black electrical tape to hold
the component temorarily while you solder it it.

Method 3:  Hold the component with your fingers, hoping you can solder fast
enought before the component heats up.  Then put your burnt fingers in your
mouth, cursing and swearing that you'll never use that method again,
meanwhile dropping the unsoldered component into the shag carpet at your
feet.   Pick up another component and repeat.

Amazingly, I have been soldering for 25 years and I still use method 3 with
regularity.

Don't glue them down, it just makes it harder to unsolder them when the
inevitable changes are needed.

Don't skimp on a soldering iron.  Forget all those Radio Shack irons.  At a
minimum get a Weller WP35 or equivalent, set ya back about $35US, with the
skinniest tips they sell.  Better yet is a temperature controlled iron.

Save your lungs, get hold of a fume extractor, or make one from a muffin fan
and a small scrap of filter material.  I stuck mine on the end of a
parralellogram lamp arm (those cheap architects lamps on a big hinge) for
easy placement right behind the piece to be soldered.

Practice soldering a lot, until you can do it consistently, with joints that
are stronger than the wire.  When you can solder two thin wires together,
yank on them, and the wire breaks before the joint, you have finally learned
the art.

-- Lawrence Lile

{Original Message removed}

2001\06\01@194426 by Kevin Olalde

picon face
Thanks!

I've acutally tried Method 3, but I didn't think it counted.  Good to
know I'm on my way.

ko


Lawrence Lile wrote:
{Quote hidden}

> {Original Message removed}

2001\06\01@201205 by David VanHorn

flavicon
face
And forget 60/40 solder, it's junk.

Use 63/37 eutectic alloy.

--
Dave's Engineering Page: http://www.dvanhorn.org

I would have a link to FINDU here in my signature line, but due to the
inability of sysadmins at TELOCITY to differentiate a signature line from
the text of an email, I am forbidden to have it.

--
http://www.piclist.com hint: PICList Posts must start with ONE topic:
[PIC]:,[SX]:,[AVR]: ->uP ONLY! [EE]:,[OT]: ->Other [BUY]:,[AD]: ->Ads


2001\06\01@230334 by Larry Williams

flavicon
face
Another good way is to put the pc board on top of a piece of foam. Place
all parts in place on the board. Take another piece of foam, place on
top of the board and invert board(turn upside down). foam holds parts on
board when soldering. Always start with the smallest parts first,
resistors, small caps, etc. Mount them on board, solder them,  then move
on to the next taller parts, ic's, etc, mount them on board, solder them
then next taller....

Kevin Olalde wrote:
{Quote hidden}

> > {Original Message removed}

2001\06\02@071220 by Peter L. Peres

picon face
Hot glue as bought is NOT conductive. Dirty old hot glue may have leakage.

The easy way to keep the parts from falling out implies a heat resistant
sponge or a clean soft rag (cotton - old t-shirt). Stuff the board, then
press the sponge or the folded (several times) rag on top of the parts and
flip the board to solder. You need to do this several times, every time
stuff parts with the same height. If you use a special sponge for this you
can stuff all the parts at once (no matter what height).

Peter

--
http://www.piclist.com hint: The list server can filter out subtopics
(like ads or off topics) for you. See http://www.piclist.com/#topics


More... (looser matching)
- Last day of these posts
- In 2001 , 2002 only
- Today
- New search...