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PICList Thread
'[OT]: PCB Transfer paper'
2001\10\13@204451 by Peter May

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Hi all.

Like most of us I have been playing round with a suitable method of making
one-of PCB's. I have tried the Positive resist PCB way and haven't been real
happy with the quality so in a recent visit to an electronics hobby shop I
purchased 5 sheets of Iron On Transfer type paper. First go with it and it
worked great. Did one side of a PCB and it came out perfect.

When doing the photographic method for a double sided I used to put the 2
sheets together and tape 3 sides to make an envelope and slip the PCB into
the 4th side. I did this with the iron on stuff and although I haven't
drilled the holes yet to finally conferm it does look pretty good. Does
anyone have any other suggestions how to line up the 2 sides of this type of
tranfer?

Also 5 sheets cost me $35 Aus (prob around $15 US). Is there a cheaper
version whilst maintaining quality of product? I am happy to say order from
the US or UK etc.

regards, Peter.

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2001\10\13@205252 by Alexandre Domingos F. Souza

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>When doing the photographic method for a double sided I used to put the 2
>sheets together and tape 3 sides to make an envelope and slip the PCB into
>the 4th side. I did this with the iron on stuff and although I haven't
>drilled the holes yet to finally conferm it does look pretty good. Does
>anyone have any other suggestions how to line up the 2 sides of this type of
>tranfer?

       Print in paper, tape to the board, drill it first, use the holes to align after ;o)


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Alexandre Souza
.....taitoKILLspamspam@spam@terra.com.br
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2001\10\13@214534 by Kathy Quinlan

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Hiya Peter,

Which company did you buy it from ? I have not really seen it on my trips to
Altronics or Jaycar (not been in DSE for ages ;o)

Regards,

Kat.
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{Original Message removed}

2001\10\13@222437 by Eben Olson

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I've had good results using both "Kodak Extra Gloss" and "Kodak Photo
Paper", which you can get at Staples for 15-25 cents a sheet. Not sure if
you can mail-order it though. I've never used regular iron-transfers, so I
can't really compare, but I'm happy with this paper. It usually takes 2-3
tries to get a transfer with all the traces perfect, but when you consider
how cheap the paper is, it really doesn't matter.


{Original Message removed}

2001\10\13@232750 by Peter May

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Jaycar. Very impressed actually. Worked first time..

-----Original Message-----
From: Kathy Quinlan [.....katinkaKILLspamspam.....MAGESTOWER.COM]
Sent: Sunday, October 14, 2001 11:47
To: EraseMEPICLISTspam_OUTspamTakeThisOuTMITVMA.MIT.EDU
Subject: Re: [OT]: PCB Transfer paper


Hiya Peter,

Which company did you buy it from ? I have not really seen it on my trips to
Altronics or Jaycar (not been in DSE for ages ;o)

Regards,

Kat.
____________________________________________________________________________
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\ / - NO HTML/RTF in e-mail | Software and Electronic Engineering
X  - NO Word docs in e-mail  |          Perth Western Australia
/ \                                            |            Ph +61 419 923
731
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----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter May" <managerspamspam_OUTSALE-NET.COM.AU>
To: <@spam@PICLISTKILLspamspamMITVMA.MIT.EDU>
Sent: Sunday, October 14, 2001 8:26 AM
Subject: [OT]: PCB Transfer paper


> Hi all.
>
> Like most of us I have been playing round with a suitable method of making
> one-of PCB's. I have tried the Positive resist PCB way and haven't been
real
> happy with the quality so in a recent visit to an electronics hobby shop I
> purchased 5 sheets of Iron On Transfer type paper. First go with it and it
> worked great. Did one side of a PCB and it came out perfect.
>
> When doing the photographic method for a double sided I used to put the 2
> sheets together and tape 3 sides to make an envelope and slip the PCB into
> the 4th side. I did this with the iron on stuff and although I haven't
> drilled the holes yet to finally conferm it does look pretty good. Does
> anyone have any other suggestions how to line up the 2 sides of this type
of
> tranfer?
>
> Also 5 sheets cost me $35 Aus (prob around $15 US). Is there a cheaper
> version whilst maintaining quality of product? I am happy to say order
from
> the US or UK etc.
>
> regards, Peter.
>
> --
> http://www.piclist.com hint: To leave the PICList
> KILLspampiclist-unsubscribe-requestKILLspamspammitvma.mit.edu
>
>

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2001\10\13@232957 by victor Faria

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look at press-n- peel
http://www.techniks.com 20 sheets for $30.00 the blue works good.
regards
Victor Faria
{Original Message removed}

2001\10\14@154749 by Thomas McGahee

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Peter,
DynaArt also makes a very good transfer paper.

You asked about lining up double sided boards. Here is the
method that *I* use. On the original artwork I include
registration pads at THREE extreme diagonal points. The pads
are made a decent size, but the hole is made very small.

__________________________________
|.                               .|
|                                 |
|                                 |
|                                 |
|                                 |
|                                 |
|                                 |
|                                 |
|                                .|
-----------------------------------

These are included for both the top and bottom pcb layouts,
and they must match exactly.

I run off the top and bottom pcb layouts on transfer paper,
and I also run off a copy of the top layout on plain paper.
I stick a needle into each registration pad hole on the plain
paper copy, and then tape the paper to one side of the pcb.
Because this is a double-sided design it really doesn't matter
which way you have the paper copy facing, because the use of
only three holes makes the top and bottom sides simply oppositely
asymmetric. It is usually most convenient to tape the paper copy
with the design showing. Tape all four sides. Use the smallest
drill bit you can find, and drill the three registration holes.
Remove the tape and the paper copy. Vigorously clean both sides
of the board. Thoroughly dry. You will now need three needles or
thin pieces of wire. Pierce all three registration holes on
BOTH pcb transfer papers. Apply the needles through the pierced
holes of one transfer sheet and attach that sheet to the pcb
by placing the needles through the appropriate holes. Flip
the board over and line the other transfer sheet with the needles
and push the sheet down so it is flat against the pcb.

Now apply Scotch 3M tape along the edges. Remove the needles.
Apply heat to transfer design. Remove transfer paper as usual.
When etching, ensure that both sides get equal etching treatment.

Fr. Tom McGahee

{Original Message removed}

2001\10\14@162733 by Kathy Quinlan

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Kewlies I must get some :o)

Regards,

Kat.

____________________________________________________________________________
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X  - NO Word docs in e-mail  |          Perth Western Australia
/ \                                            |            Ph +61 419 923
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----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter May" <TakeThisOuTmanagerEraseMEspamspam_OUTSALE-NET.COM.AU>
To: <RemoveMEPICLISTspamTakeThisOuTMITVMA.MIT.EDU>
Sent: Sunday, October 14, 2001 11:02 AM
Subject: Re: [OT]: PCB Transfer paper


> Jaycar. Very impressed actually. Worked first time..
>
> {Original Message removed}

2001\10\14@164608 by Josh Koffman

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Could you possibly tell us your methods? This sounds very intriguing.

Thanks,

Josh Koffman


Eben Olson wrote:
>
> I've had good results using both "Kodak Extra Gloss" and "Kodak Photo
> Paper", which you can get at Staples for 15-25 cents a sheet. Not sure if
> you can mail-order it though. I've never used regular iron-transfers, so I
> can't really compare, but I'm happy with this paper. It usually takes 2-3
> tries to get a transfer with all the traces perfect, but when you consider
> how cheap the paper is, it really doesn't matter.
>
> {Original Message removed}

2001\10\14@193257 by Eben Olson

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Sure. I've mainly used the extra glossy, but the photo paper works even
better. It's not a retail item, but if you go and talk to the guy in the
copy center, you should be able to buy some. It's usually used in their
color copiers. Once you've got the paper, just print your design on it using
a laser printer. Then tape the edges to the copper board with scotch tape,
and iron it all over for a minute or so. With the gloss paper, you should
then put the board in warm water and rub it till the paper disintegrates,
but with the photo paper, you can just gently peel it off. If some of the
traces are still on the paper or haven't transferred completely, just clean
the board with acetone and try again. I usually print 4-5 copies of the
design on the sheet, just in case.

{Original Message removed}

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