Post by thread:[OT]: How to print words on enclosure box?

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'[OT]: How to print words on enclosure box?'
2001\07\31@123651 by John Waters

Hi All, I want the user know the function of each switch such as "POWER", "RESET", etc., of my circuit. So I need to print some words on the surface of the enclosure box. These printed words must be non-erasable. What is the best way to do? Thanks in advance! John _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp -- http://www.piclist.com hint: PICList Posts must start with ONE topic: [PIC]:,[SX]:,[AVR]: ->uP ONLY! [EE]:,[OT]: ->Other [BUY]:,[AD]: ->Ads

2001\07\31@124526 by Douglas Butler

What is the box made of, material and texture? What volume of product? Sherpa Doug {Quote hidden}> -----Original Message----- > From: John Waters [spam_OUTjohn_fm_watersTakeThisOuTHOTMAIL.COM] > Sent: Tuesday, July 31, 2001 12:36 PM > To: .....PICLISTKILLspam@spam@MITVMA.MIT.EDU > Subject: [OT]: How to print words on enclosure box? > > > Hi All, > > I want the user know the function of each switch such as > "POWER", "RESET", > etc., of my circuit. So I need to print some words on the > surface of the > enclosure box. These printed words must be non-erasable. What > is the best > way to do? > > Thanks in advance! > > John > > > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at > http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp > > -- > http://www.piclist.com hint: PICList Posts must start with ONE topic: > [PIC]:,[SX]:,[AVR]: ->uP ONLY! [EE]:,[OT]: ->Other [BUY]:,[AD]: ->Ads > > > -- http://www.piclist.com hint: PICList Posts must start with ONE topic: [PIC]:,[SX]:,[AVR]: ->uP ONLY! [EE]:,[OT]: ->Other [BUY]:,[AD]: ->Ads

2001\07\31@143820 by Barry Gershenfeld

>I want the user know the function of each switch such as "POWER", "RESET", >etc., of my circuit. So I need to print some words on the surface of the >enclosure box. These printed words must be non-erasable. What is the best >way to do? >John Sounds like you are using some kind of dry-transfer lettering. What you can do is spray clear lacquer (sold along with other spray paint) over it. Another source of clear lacquer is clear nail polish. With that you have to be careful because it dissolves the print and you can smear it if you brush it too much. I've used it--20 years later the printing is still there. Hmm, 20 years later, I hope you can still buy lacquer! Barry -- http://www.piclist.com hint: PICList Posts must start with ONE topic: [PIC]:,[SX]:,[AVR]: ->uP ONLY! [EE]:,[OT]: ->Other [BUY]:,[AD]: ->Ads

2001\07\31@145239 by Spehro Pefhany

At 11:28 AM 7/31/01 -0700, you wrote: >Hmm, 20 years later, I hope you can still buy lacquer! There is some nice spray stuff you can buy in art stores that will do the trick (don't have a can right in front of me, I think it's actually acrylic), but the dry transfer lettering is getting scarce. Bset regards, =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= Spehro Pefhany --"it's the network..." "The Journey is the reward" speffKILLspaminterlog.com Info for manufacturers: http://www.trexon.com Embedded software/hardware/analog Info for designers: http://www.speff.com Contributions invited->The AVR-gcc FAQ is at: http://www.bluecollarlinux.com =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= -- http://www.piclist.com hint: PICList Posts must start with ONE topic: [PIC]:,[SX]:,[AVR]: ->uP ONLY! [EE]:,[OT]: ->Other [BUY]:,[AD]: ->Ads

2001\07\31@145917 by John Walker

My favorite way to accomplish this is to layout how I want the panel to look in Autocad. You could of course use any graphics package or word processor for that matter. I then print a mirror image of the design onto a clear overhead slide. The I use a spray-on glue to attach the slide to the enclosure. By printing a mirror image, the toner is sealed between the slide and the enclosure so it can never be scratched off through normal use. Neat and clean!! At 11:28 AM 7/31/01 -0700, Barry Gershenfeld wrote: {Quote hidden}> >I want the user know the function of each switch such as "POWER", "RESET", > >etc., of my circuit. So I need to print some words on the surface of the > >enclosure box. These printed words must be non-erasable. What is the best > >way to do? > >John > >Sounds like you are using some kind of dry-transfer lettering. What >you can do is spray clear lacquer (sold along with other spray paint) >over it. Another source of clear lacquer is clear nail polish. With >that you have to be careful because it dissolves the print and you >can smear it if you brush it too much. I've used it--20 years later >the printing is still there. > >Hmm, 20 years later, I hope you can still buy lacquer! > >Barry > >-- >http://www.piclist.com hint: PICList Posts must start with ONE topic: >[PIC]:,[SX]:,[AVR]: ->uP ONLY! [EE]:,[OT]: ->Other [BUY]:,[AD]: ->Ads > -- http://www.piclist.com hint: PICList Posts must start with ONE topic: [PIC]:,[SX]:,[AVR]: ->uP ONLY! [EE]:,[OT]: ->Other [BUY]:,[AD]: ->Ads

2001\07\31@151728 by Nicolas Fournel

Hello, What about labellers (Brother, Casio...). Brother has a lot of different tapes (you can choose the size, the text and background colors, (the background can be transparent)). They are very resistant, to water, heat, even chemicals (and better looking than Casio tapes, IMHO). Some labellers can be connected to a PC to create small logos, but they are quite expensive. I'm using a brother PT1800 and it's really fast and looks great... BTW, the idea of John Walker is really great too, I will try it ! Nicolas >>> John Walker <.....jjwKILLspam.....SEI.CMU.EDU> 07/31/01 11:59AM >>> My favorite way to accomplish this is to layout how I want the panel to look in Autocad. You could of course use any graphics package or word processor for that matter. I then print a mirror image of the design onto a clear overhead slide. The I use a spray-on glue to attach the slide to the enclosure. By printing a mirror image, the toner is sealed between the slide and the enclosure so it can never be scratched off through normal use. Neat and clean!! At 11:28 AM 7/31/01 -0700, Barry Gershenfeld wrote: {Quote hidden}> >I want the user know the function of each switch such as "POWER", "RESET", > >etc., of my circuit. So I need to print some words on the surface of the > >enclosure box. These printed words must be non-erasable. What is the best > >way to do? > >John > >Sounds like you are using some kind of dry-transfer lettering. What >you can do is spray clear lacquer (sold along with other spray paint) >over it. Another source of clear lacquer is clear nail polish. With >that you have to be careful because it dissolves the print and you >can smear it if you brush it too much. I've used it--20 years later >the printing is still there. > >Hmm, 20 years later, I hope you can still buy lacquer! > >Barry > >-- >http://www.piclist.com hint: PICList Posts must start with ONE topic: >[PIC]:,[SX]:,[AVR]: ->uP ONLY! [EE]:,[OT]: ->Other [BUY]:,[AD]: ->Ads > -- http://www.piclist.com hint: PICList Posts must start with ONE topic: [PIC]:,[SX]:,[AVR]: ->uP ONLY! [EE]:,[OT]: ->Other [BUY]:,[AD]: ->Ads -- http://www.piclist.com hint: PICList Posts must start with ONE topic: [PIC]:,[SX]:,[AVR]: ->uP ONLY! [EE]:,[OT]: ->Other [BUY]:,[AD]: ->Ads

2001\07\31@164506 by Nick Masluk

For my projects I will either use one of those cheap labelers that you punch letters one at a time into a plastic tape, but when I want something a better looking I'll use a laminated tape labeling machine. Mine is the PT-310 from Brother (see http://www.brother.com/usa/common/walkthrough/office/office_label.html), they support different fonts, as well as have different colored text and backgrounds depending on the tape used. --Nick --- John Waters <EraseMEjohn_fm_watersspam_OUTTakeThisOuTHOTMAIL.COM> wrote: {Quote hidden}> Hi All, > > I want the user know the function of each switch > such as "POWER", "RESET", > etc., of my circuit. So I need to print some words > on the surface of the > enclosure box. These printed words must be > non-erasable. What is the best > way to do? > > Thanks in advance! > > John > > > > > > _________________________________________________________________ {Quote hidden}> Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at > http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp > > -- > http://www.piclist.com hint: PICList Posts must > start with ONE topic: > [PIC]:,[SX]:,[AVR]: ->uP ONLY! [EE]:,[OT]: ->Other > [BUY]:,[AD]: ->Ads > > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messenger http://phonecard.yahoo.com/ -- http://www.piclist.com hint: PICList Posts must start with ONE topic: [PIC]:,[SX]:,[AVR]: ->uP ONLY! [EE]:,[OT]: ->Other [BUY]:,[AD]: ->Ads

2001\07\31@165550 by Brent Brown

> My favorite way to accomplish this is to layout how I want the > panel to look in Autocad. You could of course use any graphics > package or word processor for that matter. I then print a mirror > image of the design onto a clear overhead slide. The I use a > spray-on glue to attach the slide to the enclosure. By printing a > mirror image, the toner is sealed between the slide and the > enclosure so it can never be scratched off through normal use. Neat > and clean!! > This an excellent method (I use it myself!). I would just like to add that you can spray white enamel paint onto the back of the label to make it look better, and double sided tape also works really well for sticking it down (or up, or wherever). Brent Brown Electronic Design Solutions 16 English Street Hamilton, New Zealand Ph/fax: +64 7 849 0069 Mobile/text: 025 334 069 eMail: brent.brownspam_OUTclear.net.nz -- http://www.piclist.com hint: PICList Posts must start with ONE topic: [PIC]:,[SX]:,[AVR]: ->uP ONLY! [EE]:,[OT]: ->Other [BUY]:,[AD]: ->Ads

2001\07\31@170834 by Douglas Butler

For one-off jobs I use the Brother tapes. Black on silver looks good on aluminum boxes, but beware the silver turns black when soaked in seawater. I think the metallic silver pigment corrodes. Sherpa Doug > {Original Message removed}

2001\07\31@173730 by Thomas McGahee

The following site has a discussion of various methods: http://fstewart.ne.mediaone.net/DaEtiCsuiLblMethods.html Here are a few methods I have used: 1) MAKE YOUR OWN DECALS Print using a Laser Printer to DynaArt Toner Transfer paper. Then spray on a few light coats of lacquer directly over the printed area. A few light coats works better than one heavy coat. Let the coated image dry for at least an hour for best results. Use scissors to trim the paper to the proper size, and then place the Toner Transfer paper image-side-up in a bowl or pan of water. The paper may curl a little at first because the back-side of the paper absorbs water faster than the side that was sprayed. Be patient. After a minute or so you will see the decal separating from the paper. Apply as you would a regular decal, that is, by sliding it off of the paper onto the desired surface. I usually get one side slightly off the paper and then slide the paper out slowly so the decal has a minimum of stress applied. Avoid bubbles, but if they occur, wipe them out towards the edge. On some materials you can remove the lacquer carrier with ordinary denatured alcohol. (Alcohol will mar certain surfaces). Wait until decal is totally dry! Use a gentle circular motion, using an absorbent cloth such as an old T-shirt. On the other hand, you might opt to let the decal totally dry and then give it one or two coats of lacquer spray so that the entire work surface has a coating of laquer. 2) MAKE A VANITY PLATE. Using a Laser Printer, print a MIRROR image to DynaArt Toner Transfer paper. Use an iron to transfer the toner image to the vanity plate. Soak the vanity plate in water until the transfer paper floats away from the plate. Rinse carefully under cold running water and carefully dry. (I use warm air to dry). Once vanity plate is totally dry, you can spray a couple of thin coats of lacquer over the entire surface. Several thin coats are better than one thick coat. It is best to allow a few minutes drying time between coats. Vanity plates must be able to withstand the ironing heat, so they should be metal, not plastic. 3) MAKE AN **ETCHED** VANITY PLATE. Carefully clean the vanity plate and ensure that it is dry. Using a Laser Printer, print a MIRROR image to DynaArt Toner Transfer paper. Use an iron to transfer the toner image to the vanity plate. Soak the vanity plate in water until the transfer paper floats away from the plate. Rinse carefully under cold running water. Dip the vanity plate in acid. Keep the plate moving. An alternative method is to "paint" acid/etchant onto the vanity plate using a broad brush (one that is not affected by the etchant, obviously!) Once the acid/etchant has changed the surface characteristics the desired amount, remove the vanity plate and rigorously rinse the plate clean. Remove the toner using Acetone or finger nail polish remover. Where the toner once was the surface should be smooth and shiny, whereas the etched metal will have a duller complexion. Vanity plate must be metallic. 4) MAKE A **PLATED** VANITY PLATE. Carefully clean the vanity plate and ensure that it is dry. Using a Laser Printer, print a MIRROR image to DynaArt Toner Transfer paper. Use an iron to transfer the toner image to the vanity plate. Soak the vanity plate in water until the transfer paper floats away from the plate. Rinse carefully under cold running water. Plate the Vanity Plate with a metal of contrasting color. When the plating is finished, remove the toner using Acetone or finger nail polish remover. You will now have a two-tone vanity plate. Vanity plate must be metallic. 5) MAKE A **TRANSPARENT** OVERLAY. Print a MIRRORED image using a Laser Printer. The print material can be either transparent or matte finish on one side. If using matte finish, print to the matte side. There are some additional things you can do with this method. A) After printing, spray the toner side. Metallic paints look especially "cool", although a simple flat white is also nice. B) Print a MIRRORED and also NEGATIVE version of the lettering onto the transparent/translucent material. The letters are now CLEAR. You can individually apply color to the toner side and the letters will take on that color. You can apply a few simple "masks" that consist of cut-out areas and quickly spray paint the desired color scheme to hundreds of overlays in just a few minutes. -OR- print the color scheme onto paper and apply the overlay on top of the paper. I have also used paper that had one side "metallic". Use your imagination! *** The overlay is normally applied to the case using spray-on adhesive. 6) MAKE AN ADHESIVE PAPER PANEL. The companies that make labels also sell full sheets of paper that are adhesive-backed and can be printed on a Laser Jet or Ink Jet. In color even! Great for quick prototypes. I find the smooth paper better than the textured. The thinner paper works better in many Laser Jets, since thick paper prevents the toner from fusing (unless your printer has an adjustment for thick paper). Once the paper has been applied, you can give it a few coats of clear lacquer or acrylic spray to increase its lifespan. You could even apply a clear transparency material if you want. *** I hope someone finds this useful. Fr. Tom McGahee -- http://www.piclist.com hint: PICList Posts must start with ONE topic: [PIC]:,[SX]:,[AVR]: ->uP ONLY! [EE]:,[OT]: ->Other [BUY]:,[AD]: ->Ads

2001\07\31@174538 by steve

> This an excellent method (I use it myself!). I would just like to add > that you can spray white enamel paint onto the back of the label to > make it look better, and double sided tape also works really well for > sticking it down (or up, or wherever). I used to do that too (but used poster paint as it dries faster and doesn't make such a mess). Now I layout what I want in full colour and take it up to the local copy shop. They print it onto heavy stock, laminate it and cut to size. All much faster and better than I can do it. Steve. ====================================================== Steve Baldwin Electronic Product Design TLA Microsystems Ltd Microcontroller Specialists PO Box 15-680, New Lynn http://www.tla.co.nz Auckland, New Zealand ph +64 9 820-2221 email: @spam@stevebKILLspamtla.co.nz fax +64 9 820-1929 ====================================================== -- http://www.piclist.com hint: PICList Posts must start with ONE topic: [PIC]:,[SX]:,[AVR]: ->uP ONLY! [EE]:,[OT]: ->Other [BUY]:,[AD]: ->Ads

2001\07\31@182415 by Brent Brown

> > This an excellent method (I use it myself!). I would just like to add > > that you can spray white enamel paint onto the back of the label to > > make it look better, and double sided tape also works really well for > > sticking it down (or up, or wherever). > > I used to do that too (but used poster paint as it dries faster and > doesn't make such a mess). > Now I layout what I want in full colour and take it up to the local > copy shop. They print it onto heavy stock, laminate it and cut to > size. All much faster and better than I can do it. > Do you take it there on disk or do you do a colour inkjet print out first and get it copied? The laser print / enamel paint / transparency has the advantages of being very rugged, waterproof and lightfast. (Wish I had a colour laser!) Not too slow a procedure, just need to be patient while the paint dries! An hour in the hot water cupboard is enough. Brent Brown Electronic Design Solutions 16 English Street Hamilton, New Zealand Ph/fax: +64 7 849 0069 Mobile/text: 025 334 069 eMail: KILLspambrent.brownKILLspamclear.net.nz -- http://www.piclist.com hint: PICList Posts must start with ONE topic: [PIC]:,[SX]:,[AVR]: ->uP ONLY! [EE]:,[OT]: ->Other [BUY]:,[AD]: ->Ads

2001\07\31@182431 by Mike Kendall

Years ago, I used a spray lacquer to cover up my artwork on a power supply project. It was very nice and neat looking, but I could not resist the temptation to clean it with the best solvent I had at my disposal, tri-clorofloroethane, it dissolved the lacquer and destroyed the artwork. This solvent is very common in electronics and called tri-chlor. I'm not sure what else will dissolve the lacquer, but be careful of solvents and lacquer coatings over electronic project artwork. Regards, Mike {Original Message removed}

2001\07\31@182945 by Mike Kendall

Years ago, I built a communications van and used the Brother labeling machine to label stuff. I was working around the clock and didn't have much time to mess around. A few months later they began curling off. Apparantly the labels do not always stick all that well to metal. A tried and true method I've discovered to keep quick labels from unsticking is to put a light coat of super glue (cyanocrylate) on the back of the label. If you have a painted surface it will literally chemically weld itself on it. I cannot remember if I used this trick or not on the Brother label machine but have done it with the older plastic label guns. Mike {Original Message removed}

2001\07\31@193853 by steve

> > Now I layout what I want in full colour > > and take it up to the local copy shop. They print it onto heavy > > stock, laminate it and cut to size. All much faster and better than > > I can do it. > > Do you take it there on disk or do you do a colour inkjet print out > first and get it copied? The laser print / enamel paint / transparency > has the advantages of being very rugged, waterproof and lightfast. I take a disk up as their laser can do a much better job than my inkjet. I expect I could be up there and back with the finished item before my clunky old inkjet would have finished printing the page. The laminate is going to be just as rugged and the toner just as lightfast (don't know about the paper though). Waterproof - true, although I have some laminated paper that I take diving and that has about 5mm of water ingress after a dozen dives and max depth of 39m. My main use for these techniques is for one-of prototypes for clients, rather than a finish for a final product. It only has to last long enough for them to get all excited about seeing a product with blinking lights and their logo on it and being presented with the bill. Another front panel method I haven't got round to trying yet is to get it cut out on one of those gerber things the sign-writers use. I'm not sure how small they can do but the colours would be nice and bold. Other methods are getting your PCB maker to put a silkscreen on your front panel. They are setup to do it for PCB's already and the one's here will do other stuff as well. If you have a place locally that makes those name plates on office doors by engraving/milling plastic laminate, they can do neat panels too. They use a laminate that has an opaque, coloured layer and a clear layer. They mill it in mirror form from the opaque side and then put paint in the milled out letters, etc. Really good for larger instruments and things like switchboards. Steve. ====================================================== Steve Baldwin Electronic Product Design TLA Microsystems Ltd Microcontroller Specialists PO Box 15-680, New Lynn http://www.tla.co.nz Auckland, New Zealand ph +64 9 820-2221 email: RemoveMEstevebTakeThisOuTtla.co.nz fax +64 9 820-1929 ====================================================== -- http://www.piclist.com hint: PICList Posts must start with ONE topic: [PIC]:,[SX]:,[AVR]: ->uP ONLY! [EE]:,[OT]: ->Other [BUY]:,[AD]: ->Ads

2001\07\31@213430 by Brent Brown

{Quote hidden}> > > Now I layout what I want in full colour > > > and take it up to the local copy shop. They print it onto heavy > > > stock, laminate it and cut to size. All much faster and better than > > > I can do it. > > > > Do you take it there on disk or do you do a colour inkjet print out > > first and get it copied? The laser print / enamel paint / transparency > > has the advantages of being very rugged, waterproof and lightfast. > > I take a disk up as their laser can do a much better job than my > inkjet. I expect I could be up there and back with the finished item > before my clunky old inkjet would have finished printing the page. > The laminate is going to be just as rugged and the toner just as > lightfast (don't know about the paper though). Waterproof - true, > although I have some laminated paper that I take diving and that > has about 5mm of water ingress after a dozen dives and max depth > of 39m. > > My main use for these techniques is for one-of prototypes for > clients, rather than a finish for a final product. It only has to last > long enough for them to get all excited about seeing a product with > blinking lights and their logo on it and being presented with the bill. > > Another front panel method I haven't got round to trying yet is to get > it cut out on one of those gerber things the sign-writers use. > I'm not sure how small they can do but the colours would be nice > and bold. > I have had a sign company to make some labels for a couple of projects now. They took my Corel Draw file directly. Not sure of the exact technology their printer uses but it does 300dpi, each colour coming from a seperate roll of film. It does several passes, each layer of vinyl being overlaid on top of the previous. Costs were better than screenprinting for up to about 100 pieces. Resolution is not too bad but the biggest problems are alignment between colours and having to consider gaps between colours or intentionally overlaying them. All in all a nice solution for small to medium production runs. Brent Brown Electronic Design Solutions 16 English Street Hamilton, New Zealand Ph/fax: +64 7 849 0069 Mobile/text: 025 334 069 eMail: spamBeGonebrent.brownspamBeGoneclear.net.nz -- http://www.piclist.com hint: PICList Posts must start with ONE topic: [PIC]:,[SX]:,[AVR]: ->uP ONLY! [EE]:,[OT]: ->Other [BUY]:,[AD]: ->Ads

2001\07\31@222709 by Dale Botkin

On Tue, 31 Jul 2001, Mike Kendall wrote: > Years ago, I built a communications van and used the Brother labeling > machine to label stuff. I was working around the clock and didn't have much > time to mess around. A few months later they began curling off. Apparantly > the labels do not always stick all that well to metal. Especially textured or cold metal. The adhesive on that tape is really not all that great, in my experience. I've stuck innumerable yards to Cisco, Sun, and ham radio equipment... some sticks, some doesn't. Your best bet is unpainted, brush finished metal. The more textured the paint the quicker it will fall off. Dale -- A train stops at a train station. A bus stops at a bus station. On my desk I have a workstation... -- http://www.piclist.com hint: PICList Posts must start with ONE topic: [PIC]:,[SX]:,[AVR]: ->uP ONLY! [EE]:,[OT]: ->Other [BUY]:,[AD]: ->Ads

'[OT]: How to print words on enclosure box?'
2001\08\01@005314 by Brian Kraut

I have been silk screening mine. That is the ultimate quality, but not the easiest to do if you don't have the experience and equipment. I have an inkjet printer that I have been planning on modifying to move the printer head over a work holding fixture instead of moving the paper under the head. That way you position whatever you want under the head and print directly on it. Most likely you would need to experiment with different inks to work on different surfaces. Has anyone else tried this? Barry Gershenfeld wrote: {Quote hidden}> >I want the user know the function of each switch such as "POWER", "RESET", > >etc., of my circuit. So I need to print some words on the surface of the > >enclosure box. These printed words must be non-erasable. What is the best > >way to do? > >John > > Sounds like you are using some kind of dry-transfer lettering. What > you can do is spray clear lacquer (sold along with other spray paint) > over it. Another source of clear lacquer is clear nail polish. With > that you have to be careful because it dissolves the print and you > can smear it if you brush it too much. I've used it--20 years later > the printing is still there. > > Hmm, 20 years later, I hope you can still buy lacquer! > > Barry > > -- > http://www.piclist.com hint: PICList Posts must start with ONE topic: > [PIC]:,[SX]:,[AVR]: ->uP ONLY! [EE]:,[OT]: ->Other [BUY]:,[AD]: ->Ads -- http://www.piclist.com hint: The list server can filter out subtopics (like ads or off topics) for you. See http://www.piclist.com/#topics

2001\08\01@065014 by Alan B. Pearce

>There is some nice spray stuff you can buy in art stores that will do the >trick (don't have a can right in front of me, I think it's actually acrylic), >but the dry transfer lettering is getting scarce. take it down it your friendly hairdresser for a spray of hair lacquer? -- http://www.piclist.com hint: The list server can filter out subtopics (like ads or off topics) for you. See http://www.piclist.com/#topics

2001\08\01@113717 by Jeff DeMaagd

----- Original Message ----- From: Brian Kraut <TakeThisOuTengaltEraseMEspam_OUTEARTHLINK.NET> > I have been silk screening mine. That is the ultimate quality, but not the > easiest to do if you don't have the experience and equipment. > > I have an inkjet printer that I have been planning on modifying to move the > printer head over a work holding fixture instead of moving the paper under the > head. That way you position whatever you want under the head and print > directly on it. Most likely you would need to experiment with different inks > to work on different surfaces. Has anyone else tried this? How do you intend to seal this? Wither the piece needs to be treated or you need to put some sort of coating on it. I think most ink for ink jets are intended for porous surfaces, such as paper. Even printer transparences have a treatment on them to react & bond the ink to the surface. Jeff -- http://www.piclist.com hint: The list server can filter out subtopics (like ads or off topics) for you. See http://www.piclist.com/#topics

2001\08\01@140436 by Peter L. Peres

If the box is metal you can use a plastic stencil and an acid pen. Very *very* permanent. The stencil can be made using silk screen technology. Peter -- http://www.piclist.com hint: The list server can filter out subtopics (like ads or off topics) for you. See http://www.piclist.com/#topics

2001\08\02@034849 by Vasile Surducan

We do it with a a printer. You know, a printer is: A joke in poor taste. A printer consists of three main parts: the case, the jammed paper tray and the blinking light. [grin] All the best, Vasile On Tue, 31 Jul 2001, Nicolas Fournel wrote: {Quote hidden}> Hello, > > What about labellers (Brother, Casio...). Brother has a lot of different tapes (you can choose the size, the text and background colors, (the background can be transparent)). They are very resistant, to water, heat, even chemicals (and better looking than Casio tapes, IMHO). Some labellers can be connected to a PC to create small logos, but they are quite expensive. > I'm using a brother PT1800 and it's really fast and looks great... > BTW, the idea of John Walker is really great too, I will try it ! > > Nicolas > > > > >>> John Walker <RemoveMEjjwTakeThisOuTSEI.CMU.EDU> 07/31/01 11:59AM >>> > My favorite way to accomplish this is to layout how I want the panel to > look in Autocad. You could > of course use any graphics package or word processor for that matter. I > then print a mirror image > of the design onto a clear overhead slide. The I use a spray-on glue to > attach the slide to the enclosure. > By printing a mirror image, the toner is sealed between the slide and the > enclosure so it can never be > scratched off through normal use. Neat and clean!! > > At 11:28 AM 7/31/01 -0700, Barry Gershenfeld wrote: > > >I want the user know the function of each switch such as "POWER", "RESET", > > >etc., of my circuit. So I need to print some words on the surface of the > > >enclosure box. These printed words must be non-erasable. What is the best > > >way to do? > > >John > > > >Sounds like you are using some kind of dry-transfer lettering. What > >you can do is spray clear lacquer (sold along with other spray paint) > >over it. Another source of clear lacquer is clear nail polish. With > >that you have to be careful because it dissolves the print and you > >can smear it if you brush it too much. I've used it--20 years later > >the printing is still there. > > > >Hmm, 20 years later, I hope you can still buy lacquer! > > > >Barry > > > >-- > >http://www.piclist.com hint: PICList Posts must start with ONE topic: > >[PIC]:,[SX]:,[AVR]: ->uP ONLY! [EE]:,[OT]: ->Other [BUY]:,[AD]: ->Ads > > > > -- > http://www.piclist.com hint: PICList Posts must start with ONE topic: > [PIC]:,[SX]:,[AVR]: ->uP ONLY! [EE]:,[OT]: ->Other [BUY]:,[AD]: ->Ads > > -- > http://www.piclist.com hint: PICList Posts must start with ONE topic: > [PIC]:,[SX]:,[AVR]: ->uP ONLY! [EE]:,[OT]: ->Other [BUY]:,[AD]: ->Ads > > -- > http://www.piclist.com hint: The list server can filter out subtopics > (like ads or off topics) for you. See http://www.piclist.com/#topics > > -- http://www.piclist.com hint: The PICList is archived three different ways. See http://www.piclist.com/#archives for details.

2001\08\04@123256 by Alexandre Domingos F. Souza

>looking I'll use a laminated tape labeling machine. >Mine is the PT-310 from Brother (see >http://www.brother.com/usa/common/walkthrough/office/office_label.html), >they support different fonts, as well as have >different colored text and backgrounds depending on >the tape used. And it erases itself with time ;o) Kind of "self destruct" label ;o))) ---8<---Corte aqui---8<---- Alexandre Souza taitoEraseME.....terra.com.br http://planeta.terra.com.br/lazer/pinball/ ---8<---Corte aqui---8<---- -- http://www.piclist.com hint: To leave the PICList EraseMEpiclist-unsubscribe-requestmitvma.mit.edu

2001\08\06@014831 by dr. Imre Bartfai

Hi, I do not agree. I have another low-priced Brother label printer, and I have a label directly on the street for five years. Looks like new. Regards, Imre +-----------------------------------------------------------------------+ | The information transmitted is intended only for the person or entity | | to which it is addressed and may contain confidential and/or | | privileged material. Any review, retransmission, dissemination or | | other use of, or taking of any action in reliance upon, this | | information by persons or entities other than the intended recipient | | is prohibited. If you received this in error, please contact the | | sender and delete the material from any computer. | +-----------------------------------------------------------------------+ On Sat, 4 Aug 2001, Alexandre Domingos F. Souza wrote: {Quote hidden}> >looking I'll use a laminated tape labeling machine. > >Mine is the PT-310 from Brother (see > >http://www.brother.com/usa/common/walkthrough/office/office_label.html), > >they support different fonts, as well as have > >different colored text and backgrounds depending on > >the tape used. > > And it erases itself with time ;o) Kind of "self destruct" label ;o))) > > > ---8<---Corte aqui---8<---- > > Alexandre Souza > RemoveMEtaitoEraseMEEraseMEterra.com.br > http://planeta.terra.com.br/lazer/pinball/ > > ---8<---Corte aqui---8<---- > > -- > http://www.piclist.com hint: To leave the PICList > RemoveMEpiclist-unsubscribe-requestspam_OUTKILLspammitvma.mit.edu > > > -- http://www.piclist.com hint: The list server can filter out subtopics (like ads or off topics) for you. See http://www.piclist.com/#topics

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