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'[OT:] thoughts on low cost mills'
2004\08\22@085847 by hilip Stortz

picon face
just some more info, enco <use-enco.com> has acme threaded rod and nuts,
and they are on sale. (i have no idea how accurately these are made, but
they almost have to be better than all thread, and the threads should be
stronger and wear/bend less with use). < http://www.keystonethreaded.com/home.htm>

enco also has some very nice drilling/milling tables that aren't too
expensive (enco seems to carry both the high end stuff and the low end
stuff).  they have one in their flier that can move 11" across and 7.5"
front to back, with dials and the handles are bolted on, shouldn't be
too hard to add steppers.  weight is 56 pounds and they say it can be
used for milling or drilling so it's probably decent.  model cx201-2536

of course they also have calipers with rs-232 output, both long and
short though not too cheap.

they also have a 7"X10" lathe for about $400, not bad. (doubtless they
also have some low end mills on thier site).

i have no connection with enco other than having purchased a couple of
end mills that i'll hopefully be trying out in the next couple of days.

also, the proxxon mf 70 mill is about $300 and probably a better choice
than the harbor freight mill for precision though it does have less
movement, but it does have a better motor with an external shaft on
precision bearings.  i'm tempted to try a larger xy table on mine and
remount the spindle.

also, i wonder if aluminum is a good choice for building a reasonable
precision mill as it is much less stiff than steel (much less, i've done
hydrostatic testing of compressed gas cylinders, 50+ year old steel
cylinders hardly expand at all, brand new aluminum cylinders expand a
surprising amount under pressure, i.e. around 200-250 cc volume increase
at test pressure compared to 10-30 cc for comparable steel cylinders in
the 50# CO2 size).  i would think the preloading from the weight of the
steel would also help rigidity.


Does any one on the list know of any good books on mill/lathe design?
mig/tig welders can be rented and i have an itch to build a lathe/mill
combination, and there is a scrap metal place nearby with lots of heavy
steel (much cheaper than aluminum as well which has become ridiculous,
the scrap place had plenty of scrap aluminum in the past, now most of it
gets sold of for melting quickly).  I'm really glad i saved the motors
from an old large (1") instrumentation tape recorder, they should make
fine spindle motors (the reels were pretty heavy and it servoed them up
to 120"/s and down to about 1"/s and ran very smoothly).




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2004\08\22@184108 by Dan Smith

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> Philip Stortz  <.....madscientist.at.largeKILLspamspam@spam@earthlink.net> to piclist
> Does any one on the list know of any good books on mill/lathe design?

You could have a look at the Dave Gingery books...

http://www.lindsaybks.com/dgjp/djgbk/series/index.html

Dan

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2004\08\22@195609 by hilip Stortz

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now those are good projects!

Dan Smith wrote:
---------
>
> You could have a look at the Dave Gingery books...
>
> www.lindsaybks.com/dgjp/djgbk/series/index.html
--------

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2004\08\22@233336 by John Ferrell

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When you consider acquiring a lath or a mill you first must decide what you
have room for.
Next, what do you foresee using it for.

I have a Jet 920 lathe (about $1000), pretty complete, not much else needed
to cut threads, metric or US. Weighs 220 pounds. It is on rollers in my
shop. I use it to make parts to fix things.

I have the 800 pound mill from ENCO. Lots of backlash in the table,
excessive setup time every time the quill height is moved. However, with a
little thought & patience it has done every thing I have asked of it. ENCO's
stuff is a little better than Harbor's. Jet is a lot better than either of
them, but not perfect.

I have a pretty big workshop and this is the biggest equipment I would
consider putting in it. All of the automation projects I have seen for this
kind of equipment has been kludges.

John Ferrell
http://DixieNC.US

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