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'[EE] Ways of desoldering large boards ?'
2011\05\14@234557 by Jason White

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Hello all, I like to know what would be the most effective - as in quick,
reliable, and cheap way to desolder all of the through-hole components from
large (12x12 in, FR-2) boards.

I'm currently using a propane torch and pliers to remove components,
basically this consists of holding the board over the torch and tugging on
the selected competent with pliers. This usually results in setting fire to
the board several seconds before the components solder melts completely.

This is rather slow and produces quite a bit of smoke, what could I do to
streamline the process and do less damage ? (methods of heating, component
removal techniques, tools, etc)
--
Jason Whit

2011\05\15@000049 by Charles Craft

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Turn it component side down, heat gun the back till solder melts and then tap on the floor.

On 5/14/2011 11:45 PM, Jason White wrote:
> Hello all, I like to know what would be the most effective - as in quick,
> reliable, and cheap way to desolder all of the through-hole components from
> large (12x12 in, FR-2) boards.
>
> I'm currently using a propane torch and pliers to remove components,
> basically this consists of holding the board over the torch and tugging on
> the selected competent with pliers. This usually results in setting fire to
> the board several seconds before the components solder melts completely.
>
> This is rather slow and produces quite a bit of smoke, what could I do to
> streamline the process and do less damage ? (methods of heating, component
> removal techniques, tools, etc)
> --
> Jason White
>

2011\05\15@000057 by Bob Blick

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On Sun, 15 May 2011 03:45 +0000, "Jason White" wrote:
> Hello all, I like to know what would be the most effective - as in quick,
> reliable, and cheap way to desolder all of the through-hole components
> from
> large (12x12 in, FR-2) boards.
>
> I'm currently using a propane torch and pliers to remove components,
> basically this consists of holding the board over the torch and tugging
> on
> the selected competent with pliers. This usually results in setting fire
> to
> the board several seconds before the components solder melts completely.
>
> This is rather slow and produces quite a bit of smoke, what could I do to
> streamline the process and do less damage ? (methods of heating,
> component
> removal techniques, tools, etc)

Hot air gun, such as one would use for paint stripping, works for me.

Bob

-- http://www.fastmail.fm - Or how I learned to stop worrying and
                         love email again

2011\05\15@000924 by Mark Rages

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On Sat, May 14, 2011 at 11:00 PM, Bob Blick <spam_OUTbobblickTakeThisOuTspamftml.net> wrote:
>
> Hot air gun, such as one would use for paint stripping, works for me.
>
> Bob

Oven, oven mitt, tweezers.
-- Mark Rages, Engineer
Midwest Telecine LLC
.....markragesKILLspamspam@spam@midwesttelecine.co

2011\05\15@002223 by Jason White

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> Turn it component side down, heat gun the back till solder melts and
> then tap on the floor.

I usually do that with larger parts, but I don't believe you can remove
components with bent leads this way ?

> Oven, oven mitt, tweezers.

I'm assuming this is a bad thing to do in the oven that also cooks your food
?

-- Jason Whit

2011\05\15@002647 by Bob Blick

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On Sat, 14 May 2011 21:00 -0700, "Bob Blick"  wrote:

> Hot air gun, such as one would use for paint stripping, works for me.

I forgot to mention: full-coverage safety glasses and gloves :)

And plenty of fresh air!

-- http://www.fastmail.fm - Choose from over 50 domains or use your own

2011\05\15@003323 by Mark Rages

face picon face
On Sat, May 14, 2011 at 11:22 PM, Jason White
<whitewaterssoftwareinfospamKILLspamgmail.com> wrote:
>> Turn it component side down, heat gun the back till solder melts and
>> then tap on the floor.
>
> I usually do that with larger parts, but I don't believe you can remove
> components with bent leads this way ?
>
>> Oven, oven mitt, tweezers.
>
> I'm assuming this is a bad thing to do in the oven that also cooks your food
> ?

Don't do it when the cook is around!

Seriously, I don' t know what the risks are, but you can pick up a
used oven on craigslist for cheap.

It's a better method for SMT removal.  Won't work if you have clenched leads.

Regards,
Mark
markrages@gmail
-- Mark Rages, Engineer
Midwest Telecine LLC
.....markragesKILLspamspam.....midwesttelecine.co

2011\05\15@063124 by cdb

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Hot desolder sucker for through hole  and desoldering iron with appropriate bits for SMD.  Hot air gun works, but have to be careful the components aren't heat damaged.

Colin
--
cdb, EraseMEcolinspam_OUTspamTakeThisOuTbtech-online.co.uk on 15/05/2011
Web presence: http://www.btech-online.co.uk   Hosted by:  http://www.justhost.com.au
 

2011\05\15@083304 by Olin Lathrop

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Jason White wrote:
> Hello all, I like to know what would be the most effective - as in
> quick, reliable, and cheap way to desolder all of the through-hole
> components from large (12x12 in, FR-2) boards.
>
> I'm currently using a propane torch and pliers to remove components,
> basically this consists of holding the board over the torch and
> tugging on the selected competent with pliers. This usually results
> in setting fire to the board several seconds before the components
> solder melts completely.
>
> This is rather slow and produces quite a bit of smoke, what could I
> do to streamline the process and do less damage ? (methods of
> heating, component removal techniques, tools, etc)

What about some sort of temperature controlled hot plate you can set the
board on?  It gets heated from underneath to maybe 700F.


********************************************************************
Embed Inc, Littleton Massachusetts, http://www.embedinc.com/products
(978) 742-9014.  Gold level PIC consultants since 2000

2011\05\15@122519 by Jason White

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> Hot desolder sucker for through hole

In my experience this never removes more than 50% of the solder, perhaps I'm
doing something incorrectly ...

> What about some sort of temperature controlled hot plate you can set the
> board on?  It gets heated from underneath to maybe 700F.

how could I get/make one of these temperature controlled hot plates ?

-- Jason Whit

2011\05\15@123446 by Bob Blick

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On Sun, 15 May 2011 12:25 -0400, "Jason White"  wrote:
>
> > What about some sort of temperature controlled hot plate you can set the
> > board on?  It gets heated from underneath to maybe 700F.
>
> how could I get/make one of these temperature controlled hot plates ?

Electric griddle/hot plate from the housewares department of a large
store. I use a hot plate to do SMT soldering of small boards, you could
just as easily use one to desolder.

Cheers,

Bob

-- http://www.fastmail.fm - Same, same, but different...

2011\05\15@125733 by Jason White

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> Electric griddle/hot plate from the housewares department of a large
> store. I use a hot plate to do SMT soldering of small boards, you could
> just as easily use one to desolder.

Thanks, I will definitely look into buying one.

On Sun, May 15, 2011 at 12:34 PM, Bob Blick <bobblickspamspam_OUTftml.net> wrote:

{Quote hidden}

>

2011\05\15@141649 by Charles Craft

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You had the other thread about "ID Chip?" and harvesting parts?
If you're only going to use the hot plate to desolder parts you're better
off watching eBay for surplus parts and spend the money on new parts.
I've got shoe boxes full of parts that were reel tape ends for pennies.
There's still the headache/adventure? :-) of identifying parts but you're more
likely to find the part numbers with Google.

On 5/15/2011 12:57 PM, Jason White wrote:
{Quote hidden}

>> -

2011\05\16@052438 by Gary Crowell

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In the '80's I used to frequent a surplus store in Santa Ana, CA.  I had
bought a few boards there for parts, but not many, due to the pain of
getting the parts off.  One day I went in and there were several large
boards with a good assortment of chips and caps (thru-hole, in those days),
cheap, and with a special 'feature'.  I carefully carried them to the
checkout, where the clerk remarked something about getting the chips off the
board.  I said: "No Problem,"  and tapped the top board.  The chips rattled..
The boards had been loaded, but never soldered.

Probably doesn't apply to your situation...

Gary

----------------------------------------------
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Linkedin <http://www.linkedin.com/in/garyacrowellsr>
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2011\05\16@081448 by cdb

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On Sun, 15 May 2011 12:25:18 -0400, Jason White wrote:
:: In my experience this never removes more than 50% of the solder,
:: perhaps I'm doing something incorrectly ...

Often people forget that solder is sometimes needed in order to desolder, especially if the solder has become crystalline or has become cement like.

Four layer boards with massive ground planes can be a big problem, assuming there is no way of accurately warming the board prior to desoldering, a soldering iron and desoldering iron in tandem around the joint (with plenty of solder as a heat transfer medium) often works wonders. For those that allow the component to be removed, but leave a plug of solder obstinately in the board, there is nothing for it but a 1mm or so robust hand drill to bore the solder out.

Beware of large capacitors such as 100uF/450v in SMPS, if the board has been subject to heat the solder will have become cement like, the cap legs often bring the through hole copper core out of the board, which is really annoying.


--
cdb, KILLspamcolinKILLspamspambtech-online.co.uk on 16/05/2011
Web presence: http://www.btech-online.co.uk   Hosted by:  http://www.justhost.com.au
 

2011\05\16@212001 by Jeff Stevens

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I second the heat gun technique.  The heat and tap technique will remove
some components but tweezers and a flat head screwdriver are necessary for
many parts.  In general, I really shy away from Harbor Freight tools.  Their
heat gun, however, is the best deal going.

-Jef

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