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PICList Thread
'[EE] Breadboard connectors and cables.'
2008\04\01@141317 by piclist

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So now that I am back into playign with PICs I am running into my major
weakness again.. my vast inabilty to solder. :-)

Can anyone recommend some 0.1" spaced connectors for wiring things up to
breadboards without having to solder wires to pin headers?  Something that
used ribbon cable would be cool.

I have been scavinging cables from my parts bins and using those, but the
problem is 99% of them are female connectors which will not plug into a
breadboard.

One thing I wish I could find is those strips of header pins where BOTH
sides are long so I can shove it into a breadboard and plug a connector
onto it. A right angle connector would be perfect for things like the
PICkit 2.

You can see what I do currently... I make connectors out of jumper wires. :-)

http://www.ian.org/HD-Clock/Circuit-RGB.jpg

The style of black connector would be good.. male and female parts,
something I could just snap together over wires.

Thanks!

--
Ian Smith

2008\04\01@142646 by Thomas C. Sefranek

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part 1 1640 bytes content-type:text/plain; (decoded 7bit)

SAMtec makes LOTS of these kinds of connectors.
I have them in all kinds of lengths and Right angle too.

 *
 |  __O    Thomas C. Sefranek  spam_OUTWA1RHPTakeThisOuTspamARRL.NET
 |_-\<,_   Amateur Radio Operator: WA1RHP
 (*)/ (*)  Bicycle mobile on 145.41MHz PL74.4

ARRL Instructor, Technical Specialist, VE Contact.
hamradio.cmcorp.com/inventory/Inventory.html
http://www.harvardrepeater.org

{Original Message removed}

2008\04\01@150837 by James Newton

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Take the female headers and clip a bit of header pin, or take a header, and
shove it into the holes, leaving pins sticking out. A daub of epoxy (et all)
along the top will keep them from coming out.

{Original Message removed}

2008\04\02@142116 by Jeff Stevens

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> Can anyone recommend some 0.1" spaced connectors for wiring things up to
> breadboards without having to solder wires to pin headers?  Something that
> used ribbon cable would be cool.

I've been using Philmore 0.1" headers and sockets:

<shop.vetcosurplus.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=7218>
<http://shop.vetcosurplus.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=72_226_289&products_id=7212>

The pins will move in the plastic header.  Just push them down so about
half of the pin is below the plastic.  They stay in a breadboard quite
well.

Recently I ordered a number of Molex KK headers from Mouser to use in
place of the Philmore headers.  Hopefully the pins will slide through
the plastic just like the Philmore parts.  We'll see!

-Jeff





2008\04\02@145402 by KPL

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I soldered short pin ends of two standard male connectors together, so
long ends stick out on both sides. That way one end can be inserted
into breadboard, another one is usable to push female connector on.
That way straight connector can be soldered to angled one too. Ugly
but dirt cheap.


On Wed, Apr 2, 2008 at 9:20 PM, Jeff Stevens <.....jeffKILLspamspam@spam@mossycup.com> wrote:
{Quote hidden}

>  --

2008\04\02@172649 by Jeff Stevens

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On Wed, 2008-04-02 at 21:53 +0300, KPL wrote:
> I soldered short pin ends of two standard male connectors together, so
> long ends stick out on both sides. That way one end can be inserted
> into breadboard, another one is usable to push female connector on.
> That way straight connector can be soldered to angled one too. Ugly
> but dirt cheap.

Beauty is in the eye of the beholder!  As a hobbyist, I build deadbug or
Manhattan style.  Some might think it's ugly but there are some true
artist Manhattan builders out there.  I rarely etch.  In fact, the only
thing I etch on a regular basis are copper pads 0.1" on center to solder
DIP packages to for Manhattan style projects.

-Jeff


2008\04\03@141953 by piclist

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On Wed, 2 Apr 2008, Jeff Stevens wrote:
> I've been using Philmore 0.1" headers and sockets:
>
> <shop.vetcosurplus.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=7218>
> <shop.vetcosurplus.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=72_226_289&products_id=7212>
>
> The pins will move in the plastic header.  Just push them down so about
> half of the pin is below the plastic.  They stay in a breadboard quite
> well.

Well what do you know, this works with the standard break away headers too!

Now if I could only find extra long right angle headers.  Reversing them
works ok, but not perfect.

--
Ian Smith

2008\04\03@163226 by John Gardner

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> if I could only find extra long right angle headers

They exist - Not sure who makes them, but the local
surplus place had a barrel of them, a few years back...

Jack

On 4/3/08, piclistspamKILLspamian.org <.....piclistKILLspamspam.....ian.org> wrote:
{Quote hidden}

> -

2008\04\04@135406 by KPL

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>
>  Well what do you know, this works with the standard break away headers too!
>

Just tried to push those pins on standard headers thru, I would say -
straight pins are too short, but angled ones work exelently this way.
They have much longer pins on both ends of bend.

>  Now if I could only find extra long right angle headers.  Reversing them
>  works ok, but not perfect.
>
>  --
>  Ian Smith
>

--
KPL

2008\04\04@135643 by James Newton

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I'm very interested in that sort of building. Do you have any links to
favorite web sites that talk about best ways to do dead bug or "Manhattan"
building?

--
James.

{Original Message removed}

2008\04\04@140702 by KPL

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> I'm very interested in that sort of building. Do you have any links to
>  favorite web sites that talk about best ways to do dead bug or "Manhattan"
>  building?
>
>  --
>  James.
>

Try a google search on manhattan prototyping, I've seen quite a few
good documents.

--
KPL

2008\04\04@141855 by Detrick Merz

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www.k7qo.net/manart.pdf

On Fri, Apr 4, 2008 at 1:56 PM, James Newton <EraseMEjamesnewtonspam_OUTspamTakeThisOuTmassmind.org> wrote:
> I'm very interested in that sort of building. Do you have any links to
>  favorite web sites that talk about best ways to do dead bug or "Manhattan"
>  building?
>
>  --
>  James.

2008\04\04@145951 by Lloyd Sargent

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On Apr 4, 2008, at 12:56 PM, James Newton wrote:

> Beauty is in the eye of the beholder!  As a hobbyist, I build  
> deadbug or
> Manhattan style.

We called it the "dead roach approach".

Memorable and yet distasteful all at the same time!

Cheers,

Lloyd

2008\04\05@115502 by Jeff Stevens

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Yes, the information put together by K7QO is about as comprehensive as
it gets.  There is a tutorial here [1] that shows pad construction using
a nibbler instead of a punch.

[1] http://www.aoc.nrao.edu/~pharden/hobby/Hobby.shtml

This is a step-by-step on how to build a NorCal 20 Manhattan style [2].
The NorCal 20 is a somewhat classic low power amateur radio.  There are
some excellent pictures.

[2] http://home.wanadoo.nl/cmulder/nc20.htm

I've used pads made using both a nibbler and a punch.  I prefer the
latter.  Another alternative is to use a modified drill drill bit to
score "islands" on the PCB instead of gluing on pads.  While no longer
available for order, the "NJ Islander" will give you an idea [3].

[3] <www.njqrp.org/islanderpadcutter/NJ%20Islander%20Pad%20Cutter
%20Manual.pdf>

-Jeff

On Fri, 2008-04-04 at 14:18 -0400, Detrick Merz wrote:
> http://www.k7qo.net/manart.pdf
>
> On Fri, Apr 4, 2008 at 1:56 PM, James Newton <jamesnewtonspamspam_OUTmassmind.org> wrote:
> > I'm very interested in that sort of building. Do you have any links to
> >  favorite web sites that talk about best ways to do dead bug or "Manhattan"
> >  building?
> >
> >  --
> >  James.

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