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'[EE]:Presensitized PCB Printing'
2002\05\10@103722 by Donny Tan

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Has anybody try doing the double layer PCB printing using self made
exposure box and self made developer and etching tank?
What is the most optimized setup in terms of light source intensity,
exposure time and developer concentration?
Is the printer slide suitable?
What type of water (tap water/ DI water/ distilled water/ battery
water…)do you recommend to mixed with the developer?  Regards,
Donny Tan  
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2002\05\10@122853 by Nick Veys

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We have some home-made bubbler/heater tanks with
Developer/Etchant/Stipper, a home-made exposure box as well...

For exposure we do 15min/side.  I'm assuming this is way too much but
have yet to try otherwise as this was handed down.

Developer, about 3 minutes, concentration is what's on the bottle it
came in, just followed directions, can't recall.

Etchant, about 5 minutes, then after that, just til "it's done".

Stipper, about 3 minutes, but again, just til "it's done".

We're pretty low volume, so this way works great.

We have a 110V UV bulb for exposure, not sure on intensity, but it's
piercing, can't look at the sucker. :)

Water is distilled for the photo chemicals.

Never tried a printer slide, we have a Polaroid copy camera in-house for
photoreduction of the layouts we use.  I would assume it would work fine
as many people use that method.

{Original Message removed}

2002\05\10@123753 by Dwayne Reid

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>
>Never tried a printer slide, we have a Polaroid copy camera in-house for
>photoreduction of the layouts we use.  I would assume it would work fine
>as many people use that method.

Nick - I'm intrigued by what you said above.  Does the Polaroid make
transparencies?  What is the maximum size?  Will it reduce 2:1 accurately?

dwayne


Dwayne Reid   <.....dwaynerKILLspamspam@spam@planet.eon.net>
Trinity Electronics Systems Ltd    Edmonton, AB, CANADA
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2002\05\10@125706 by Dwayne Reid

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At 10:34 PM 5/10/02 +0100, Donny Tan wrote:
>Has anybody try doing the double layer PCB printing using self made
>exposure box and self made developer and etching tank?

May I suggest you head over to the Homebrew_PCBs list over at
yahoogroups.com ?  Lots of ideas and a fair amount of expertise among the
list members.

dwayne


Dwayne Reid   <.....dwaynerKILLspamspam.....planet.eon.net>
Trinity Electronics Systems Ltd    Edmonton, AB, CANADA
(780) 489-3199 voice          (780) 487-6397 fax

Celebrating 18 years of Engineering Innovation (1984 - 2002)
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    `-'   `-'   `-'   `-'   `-'   `-'   `-'   `-'   `-'
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This message neither grants consent to receive unsolicited
commercial email nor is intended to solicit commercial email.

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2002\05\10@143904 by Peter L. Peres

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On Fri, 10 May 2002, Donny Tan wrote:

>Has anybody try doing the double layer PCB printing using self made
>exposure box and self made developer and etching tank?

Yes. For protos.

>What is the most optimized setup in terms of light source intensity,
>exposure time and developer concentration?

250W high pressure Hg arc lamp at 40cm, reduce distance acc. inverse
square law for lower power lamps, 5 minutes exposure on timer, 4 grams of
NaOH/liter as per photoresist leaflet, can be upped to 8 grams carefully.
Work time in developer is 3 minutes with some mixing at room temp. I do
25mil tracks all the time like this. I use a homemade exposure frame (2
sided glass with industrial textile tape hinges and edges) and taped (to
each other) top/bottom board films to form a pocket into which the PCB is
inserted. I do not have registration problems at up to 20cm x 15cm boards
even for SMD.

This is not 'the most optimized' setup. The most optimized setup is the
one that works best for you.

>Is the printer slide suitable?

Yes.

>What type of water (tap water/ DI water/ distilled water/ battery
>water…)do you recommend to mixed with the developer?

Tap water for NaOH, tap water for 6% HNO3 by vol., follow instructions
exactly for perchlorate.

hope this helps,

Peter

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2002\05\10@144007 by Nick Veys

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It's a Polaroid MP4 Copy Camera like this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1348673846

It produces negative lithographic images, solid black or completely
clear, we then press then against a photosensitive PCB w/some nice glass
and expose.

It will reduce as accurately as you can focus it.  We print a ruler on
the image, say 3" long, we then focus the image in the view finder with
a "real" ruler, so they match up, making an X:1 reduction.  We print on
8.5x11 paper, so the reduction is typically around 1.5:1, but the
resolution gain helps nonetheless.

The max image size of these boards is 4x5 though, so for some people
that may be a problem.

{Original Message removed}

2002\05\12@112247 by mike

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On Fri, 10 May 2002 22:34:07 +0100, you wrote:

>Has anybody try doing the double layer PCB printing using self made
>exposure box and self made developer and etching tank?
>
>What is the most optimized setup in terms of light source intensity,
>exposure time and developer concentration?
Depends on laminate - you need to to some quick tests to determine the
optimum conditions
>Is the printer slide suitable?
For laser printers, use tracing paper - cheap and works really well
>What type of water (tap water/ DI water/ distilled water/ battery
>water…)do you recommend to mixed with the developer? Tap water is fine.

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