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'[EE]: Soldering SMT going [OT]: ?'
2000\10\14@150212 by Arthur Brown

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Dan this is now [OT]

you could have kept it [on topic] if you said you used a soldering iron to
stop the bleeding.

Seen the price for Solder Creams

GP 25g cartrige #13.70 plus tax
GP 500g tub #49.09 plus tax

Solder Cream 250g at #44.73 and 500g at 73.47 plus Vat.
I may take a small part time contract at a local Repair Center and
.............

ps Jink has been good for a while now.. we wait in fear...

Regards Art.

{Original Message removed}

2000\10\14@155731 by Lindsay Pallickal

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   Speaking of soldering, can you guys recommend a soldering iron for a
newbie? I currently have the cheap radio shack 25watt iron and want
something a little nicer, maybe around $60. The radio shack iron tips seem
to go on me really fast(they get crud on them which I can't seem get off,
short of sanding it off) and the thing can never solder joints using thick
wire, like the 12ga I use when building some crossovers. I also thought it
might be cheaper to order a bunch of supplies at once online somewhere,
radio shack wants $6 for that teeny tiny can of tinning chemical, which I'm
told will keep my tips going longer. There must be only about a teaspon of
stuff in there. I already tin my tips regularly with solder but as soon as I
get the smallest amount of crud on the tip it doesn't seem to want to come
off. From there is just expands.

   I'm also interested in getting chemicals for etching/developing and
photoresist boards from a cheaper source online. You guys must have some
favorite suppliers being that you work in the field so much. Anyone want to
share? Thanks.

Lindsay


{Quote hidden}

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2000\10\14@162256 by Arthur Brown

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Hi Lindsay,

I use Weller EC1300 Soldering and DS900 desolder station in my workshop, I
chose Weller as these are the most used and are Standard here in the UK.

I chose parts are easy to obtain should I need them these along with Antex
soldering irons (easy to change tips and do a nice assortment of bit's for
surface mount stuff ) that I also have, these are 12W up to 150W Total six
soldering irons also a old 25W 12Volt 30 year old iron that I still use.

One of the most important things is the Tip must be kept clean use a wet
sponge and if your tip is copper replace with an iron plated one, this will
last longer. use the tin of tip cleaner sparingly as it's very corrosive.

Regards Art

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2000\10\14@173012 by Dwayne Reid

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At 03:55 PM 10/14/00 -0400, Lindsay Pallickal wrote:
>     Speaking of soldering, can you guys recommend a soldering iron for a
>newbie? I currently have the cheap radio shack 25watt iron and want
>something a little nicer, maybe around $60.

I've used several types over the span of many years - Weller, Ungar, Pace,
Hako, OK, Metcal.  My favorite for many years has been the Weller TC-201
and I still have more of those than any other in my shop.  The Hako is also
good, except that the inside of the tips corrodes (where it fits over the
heating element) and the only way that I notice it is when I see the
production people turning up the temperature in order to get it to
solder.  A new tip fixes the problem.

My current favorite is the Metcal.  I have bought 3 so far and expect to
replace all other irons here with Metcal.  But they are expensive and I
find that the tips don't last anywhere near as long as the Weller tips -
maybe not even as long as the Hako tips.

My recommendation is to purchase any of the Weller temperature controlled
irons.  The TC-201 is probably the cheapest one they make and it works
great.  I see them on sale regularly for about $100 Can (about $65
US).  Get a PTA7 tip for most of your PCB work, PTB7 for general purpose
stuff.  The '7' is the regulated temperature (700F), the 'A', 'B' refer to
the width of the tip (available from A to E).

dwayne



Dwayne Reid   <spam_OUTdwaynerTakeThisOuTspamplanet.eon.net>
Trinity Electronics Systems Ltd    Edmonton, AB, CANADA
(780) 489-3199 voice          (780) 487-6397 fax

Celebrating 16 years of Engineering Innovation (1984 - 2000)

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2000\10\14@181257 by Dan Michaels

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Arthur Brown wrote:
>Dan this is now [OT]
>
>you could have kept it [on topic] if you said you used a soldering iron to
>stop the bleeding.
>
>Seen the price for Solder Creams
>
>GP 25g cartrige #13.70 plus tax
>GP 500g tub #49.09 plus tax
>
>Solder Cream 250g at #44.73 and 500g at 73.47 plus Vat.
>I may take a small part time contract at a local Repair Center and
>.............
>
>ps Jink has been good for a while now.. we wait in fear...
>
>Regards Art.
>

Of course, it's been so long - you call it a "cauterizer".

The story may well have been OT, but the technique described
is certainly applicable to SMT.

[and that's Mr HiJinx, BTW].

- danM
====================







>{Original Message removed}

2000\10\14@193341 by Arthur Brown

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DanM,
I could say but not spell 'cauterising' and my English dictionary don't
help. then I seen your spelling of  'cauterizer', it wan't to change your
American Spelling.

We can talk about Mr Jink he won't look in [EE]:

Regards Art

{Original Message removed}

2000\10\14@221515 by dre Domingos F. Souza

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>Speaking of soldering, can you guys recommend a soldering iron for a
>newbie? I currently have the cheap radio shack 25watt iron and want
>something a little nicer, maybe around $60. The radio shack iron tips seem

       Buy a Weller W60P. It's the nicest soldering iron I've seen, and it seems to be cheap there. Here in Brazil it costs $70. It must cost less than $30 there.


--------------8<-------Corte aqui-------8<--------------

       All the best!!!
       Alexandre Souza
       .....xandinhoKILLspamspam@spam@interlink.com.br

--------------8<-------Corte aqui-------8<--------------

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2000\10\14@231510 by Michael Rigby-Jones

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{Quote hidden}

I can second that. Nearly all our soldering stations use Metcal, and they
are very good.  But as you say the tips do corrode very quickly, although
ours do get left on almost continuously.  I find the little tubs of
flux/solder powder used for cleanung and tinning tips is great stuff, it
revives all but the most coroded tips.

Now, I really must get home, been in work for nearly 24 hours was just about
to go and decided to check my mail...180 piclist messages :o)

Mike

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2000\10\14@231711 by Dan Michaels

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Lindsay Pallickal wrote:
>    Speaking of soldering, can you guys recommend a soldering iron for a
>newbie? I currently have the cheap radio shack 25watt iron and want
>something a little nicer, maybe around $60. The radio shack iron tips seem
..........
>    I'm also interested in getting chemicals for etching/developing and
>photoresist boards from a cheaper source online. You guys must have some
>favorite suppliers being that you work in the field so much. Anyone want to
>share? Thanks.
>

Hi Lindasay,

Two good places for soldering supplies and electronic parts for
prototyping are Jameco and Digikey. DK carries PIC controllers.

Call and ask for their catalogs. Jameco is a little cheaper, I think,
and their catalog is in color, so you can actually see what it is
you are buying. The readability of the DK catalogs is getting worse
with each new catalog.

http://www.jameco.com    1-800-536-4316
http://www.digikey.com   1-800-344-4539

cheers,
- Dan Michaels
Oricom Technologies
http://www.users.uswest.net/~oricom
===================================

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2000\10\14@231719 by Dan Michaels

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Arthur Brown wrote:
>DanM,
>I could say but not spell 'cauterising' and my English dictionary don't
>help. then I seen your spelling of  'cauterizer', it wan't to change your
>American Spelling.
>

I just checked, and my spelling is correct.
==============

>We can talk about Mr Jink he won't look in [EE]:
>

Oh, yeah, I forgot. He only ever looks at [OT]: stuff - he, he.

- danM
===============

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2000\10\15@161407 by Arthur Brown

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this was a response aimed at another topic but too much beer and changed to other computer. so messages don't tally.

A method I have used for SMD's is as follows Tin the pads with a hot iron
and leave a ridge on the pad this takes a little practice to get right. next
when all pads are tinned, offer the chip up to or over the pads and apply
the iron to the legs of  the chip ether bent out or bent under the chip. as
you run round the legs the solder you left on the pads melt and usually make
a good joint.

Regards Art

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2000\10\15@221916 by David VanHorn

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I just demoed the "easy-bake" method at my ham club.
$15 toaster oven from K-Mart

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