Searching \ for '[EE]: How to control a motor' in subject line. ()
Make payments with PayPal - it's fast, free and secure! Help us get a faster server
FAQ page: www.piclist.com/techref/io/motors.htm?key=motor
Search entire site for: 'How to control a motor'.

Exact match. Not showing close matches.
PICList Thread
'[EE]: How to control a motor'
2000\11\07@085331 by Andy Kelley N1YEW

picon face
Hello,

I have an RC car that does not have a radio and i would like to make it into a roving robot like thing.

I am stuck with this:
how do I control a motor from a PIC using one side of the motor tied to 1/2 rail(2.5v) and either grounding or connecting Vcc to the motor.  Now is the problem:

I dont know how do this and I have already destroyed a few 2n222's

the motor draws 6/10 of an amp.

@ 2.5 volts that is 1.5 W.

I tried a fet like this

-/\/\/\/\- Gate

Source
__|_
/  /  /

Drain - motor - 2.5v

and all it did was make the motor spin in one direction.

Also i have another motor i need to drive at full 5v so i need to reverse both wires on the motor if i want to go in reverse

How can i do this???

Thanks
Andy N1YEW

--
http://www.piclist.com hint: To leave the PICList
spam_OUTpiclist-unsubscribe-requestTakeThisOuTspammitvma.mit.edu




2000\11\07@091216 by JP.BROWN

flavicon
face
Andy you need a bridge circuit or a relay to reverse the current through
the motor, you will find lots of circuits on the net if you do a search.
Try looking at some robot web sites, you will find more motor circuits
than you can shake a stick at!.

---John

On Tue, 7 Nov 2000, Andy Kelley N1YEW wrote:

{Quote hidden}

         -----  John P. Brown      J.P.BrownspamKILLspambradford.ac.uk ----
          \            --- Witty remark goes here ---         /
           --------------------------------------------------

--
http://www.piclist.com hint: To leave the PICList
.....piclist-unsubscribe-requestKILLspamspam.....mitvma.mit.edu




2000\11\07@091220 by staff

flavicon
face
Andy Kelley N1YEW wrote:
{Quote hidden}

Andy, I am guessing you don't have a lot of experience driving
a motor with transistors etc. If you want something quick and
reliable, I think there was a person here selling a small
module that can drive two dc motors (both directions) from a PIC,
it was about $20 or $25 and very simple to connect. If they don't
reply I am sure I can search my records and find his web page.

If you really want to design the motor driver circuit yourself
I think you need to research the type of transistor you are
using and make sure it can handle *many times* the 6/10 amp
you need, when the robot hits things and also starts moving
it will draw a lot more than 600mA.
:o)
-Roman

--
http://www.piclist.com hint: To leave the PICList
EraseMEpiclist-unsubscribe-requestspam_OUTspamTakeThisOuTmitvma.mit.edu




2000\11\07@102915 by Olin Lathrop

flavicon
face
>>
I am stuck with this:
how do I control a motor from a PIC using one side of the motor tied to 1/2
rail(2.5v) and either grounding or connecting Vcc to the motor.  Now is the
problem:
<<

I don't know where the 2.5V is coming from, but this could cause some
unnecessary power dissipation.  I would control the motor with an H bridge
so that it can be driven +-5V, then use PWM to get the desired average
drive.  This will also work for the other motor you mentioned that needed to
go +-5V, just that the PWM percentage can go to 100 in that case.


*****************************************************************
Olin Lathrop, embedded systems consultant in Devens Massachusetts
(978) 772-3129, olinspamspam_OUTcognivis.com, http://www.cognivis.com

--
http://www.piclist.com hint: To leave the PICList
@spam@piclist-unsubscribe-requestKILLspamspammitvma.mit.edu




2000\11\07@112928 by Tom Handley

picon face
  Andy, I'm also hacking a Radio Shack R/C car to turn it into a robot. The
best way to control the motor is to use an H-Bridge. There are many variants
and several things to consider. The following links have a lot of info
and/or links to other sites.

     Portland Area Robotics Society. Links to many sites.
     http://www.rdrop.com/~marvin/

     Chuck McMannis. Good theory and both Bipolar and MOSFET H-Bridge ckts.
     http://professionals.com/~cmcmanis//robotics/servo.html

     Bob Blick's site with a good Bipolar-based H-Bridge project.
     http://www.bobblick.com/bob/projects/

     Good theory with circuit examples of different types of h-Bridges.
     http://www.cadvision.com/blanchas/hexfet/

     James excellent Techref site with links and PIC code examples.
     http://techref.massmind.org/

  As far as my robot, I used a modified version of Chuck McMannis' H-Bridge
using N-Channel MOSFETs with built-in diodes (see link above). Since the car
has both 12V and 6V for the motor, I didn't have to hassle with a charge
pump. It uses a quad opto-isolator controlled by a 16F876. I hacked the
motor shaft to add a Hall-Effect sensor for a tach. So far it goes forward
and backward with some intelligent (PID) control and has bumper switches and
an IR proximity detector. This is a spare-time project...

  - Tom

At 08:58 AM 11/7/00 -0500, Andy Kelley wrote:
{Quote hidden}

------------------------------------------------------------------------
Tom Handley
New Age Communications
Since '75 before "New Age" and no one around here is waiting for UFOs ;-)

--
http://www.piclist.com hint: To leave the PICList
KILLspampiclist-unsubscribe-requestKILLspamspammitvma.mit.edu




2000\11\07@181028 by Andy Kelley N1YEW

picon face
Well,

How the heck did you know it was a radio shack car???

Andy
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom Handley" <RemoveMEthandleyTakeThisOuTspamTELEPORT.COM>
To: <spamBeGonePICLISTspamBeGonespamMITVMA.MIT.EDU>
Sent: Tuesday, November 07, 2000 11:30 AM
Subject: Re: [EE]: How to control a motor


>    Andy, I'm also hacking a Radio Shack R/C car to turn it into a robot.
The
> best way to control the motor is to use an H-Bridge. There are many
variants
> and several things to consider. The following links have a lot of info
> and/or links to other sites.
>
>       Portland Area Robotics Society. Links to many sites.
>       http://www.rdrop.com/~marvin/
>
>       Chuck McMannis. Good theory and both Bipolar and MOSFET H-Bridge
ckts.
{Quote hidden}

H-Bridge
> using N-Channel MOSFETs with built-in diodes (see link above). Since the
car
> has both 12V and 6V for the motor, I didn't have to hassle with a charge
> pump. It uses a quad opto-isolator controlled by a 16F876. I hacked the
> motor shaft to add a Hall-Effect sensor for a tach. So far it goes forward
> and backward with some intelligent (PID) control and has bumper switches
and
{Quote hidden}

--
http://www.piclist.com hint: To leave the PICList
RemoveMEpiclist-unsubscribe-requestspamTakeThisOuTmitvma.mit.edu




2000\11\07@191207 by Tom Handley

picon face
  Andy, I just assumed. Radio Shack R/C toys are really cheap
robots waiting for hackers ;-)

  If I could justify the $$, I would get their tank with two motors
but I had this old car laying around and I got bored one day ;-)

  - Tom

At 06:16 PM 11/7/00 -0500, Andy Kelley wrote:
>Well,
>
>How the heck did you know it was a radio shack car???
>
>Andy


------------------------------------------------------------------------
Tom Handley
New Age Communications
Since '75 before "New Age" and no one around here is waiting for UFOs ;-)

--
http://www.piclist.com hint: To leave the PICList
piclist-unsubscribe-requestEraseMEspam.....mitvma.mit.edu




2000\11\07@211018 by Dan Michaels

flavicon
face
Tom Handley wrote:
>   I'm also hacking a Radio Shack R/C car to turn it into a robot.
.........


Tom, I have also been intrigued by this idea for a couple of years
- something for my "spare" time [which is why it hasn't got started yet].

Most of the robo-hacks I have run across on the web have horrendously
poor/flimsy mechanical platforms - like the Parallax thingies. I am
looking at this year's R/C Hummers as a sturdy platform - something
low-slung, slow-moving, and wide-track with large tires, plus a wide
flat body to mount microelectronics on [PIC, of course].

Do you have any good links to successful R/C car --> robot hacks?
I haven't had much luck in finding these.

best regards,
- dan michaels
==============

--
http://www.piclist.com hint: To leave the PICList
EraseMEpiclist-unsubscribe-requestspammitvma.mit.edu




2000\11\07@213721 by Peter Wintulich

flavicon
face
Hi,
There is a good option for building catipilar track base. Use timing belt inside out so the teeth are the tred. Some belts have a rubber backing that helps with power transfer from the drive.
If the environment for the base to run on is clean then the belts could be driven from the touthed side.

This is what I am planning for a K9 (DrWho) type robot dog.

regards Peter W.

>>> Dan Michaels <RemoveMEoricomEraseMEspamEraseMEUSWEST.NET> 11/08 12:40 PM >>>
Tom Handley wrote:
>   I'm also hacking a Radio Shack R/C car to turn it into a robot.
.........


Tom, I have also been intrigued by this idea for a couple of years
- something for my "spare" time [which is why it hasn't got started yet].

Most of the robo-hacks I have run across on the web have horrendously
poor/flimsy mechanical platforms - like the Parallax thingies. I am
looking at this year's R/C Hummers as a sturdy platform - something
low-slung, slow-moving, and wide-track with large tires, plus a wide
flat body to mount microelectronics on [PIC, of course].

Do you have any good links to successful R/C car --> robot hacks?
I haven't had much luck in finding these.

best regards,
- dan michaels
==============

--
http://www.piclist.com hint: To leave the PICList
RemoveMEpiclist-unsubscribe-requestspam_OUTspamKILLspammitvma.mit.edu
--
http://www.piclist.com hint: To leave the PICList
RemoveMEpiclist-unsubscribe-requestTakeThisOuTspamspammitvma.mit.edu




2000\11\08@040943 by Alan B. Pearce

face picon face
>There is a good option for building catipilar track base.
>Use timing belt inside out so the teeth are the tred. Some belts
>have a rubber backing that helps with power transfer from the drive.
>If the environment for the base to run on is clean then the belts could
>be driven from the touthed side.

I believe it is also possible to get them with teeth both sides. They are rarer,
but may also help if you are trying to make the sort of beast that wants to
climb vertical walls (like a staircase for example).

--
http://www.piclist.com hint: PICList Posts must start with ONE topic:
"[PIC]:","[SX]:","[AVR]:" =uP ONLY! "[EE]:","[OT]:" =Other "[BUY]:","[AD]:" =Ads




2000\11\08@080723 by Andy Kelley N1YEW

picon face
Thats almost how mine got started but I bought one on clearance for the
purpose :)

it was only $10

Andy
{Original Message removed}

2000\11\08@100956 by Dan Michaels

flavicon
face
Alan B. Pearce wrote:
>>There is a good option for building catipilar track base.
>>Use timing belt inside out so the teeth are the tred. Some belts
>>have a rubber backing that helps with power transfer from the drive.
>>If the environment for the base to run on is clean then the belts could
>>be driven from the touthed side.
>
>I believe it is also possible to get them with teeth both sides. They are
rarer,
>but may also help if you are trying to make the sort of beast that wants to
>climb vertical walls (like a staircase for example).
>

That is what the following robot was designed for. Has a special front-end
pivoting wheel arrangement. A little expensive, but neat looking:

http://www.irobot.com/ir/index.htm

--
http://www.piclist.com hint: PICList Posts must start with ONE topic:
"[PIC]:","[SX]:","[AVR]:" =uP ONLY! "[EE]:","[OT]:" =Other "[BUY]:","[AD]:" =Ads




2000\11\08@132156 by rottosen

flavicon
face
Once you have built your 'bot then maybe you should enter it it in one
of these contests ;-)

http://www.milehicon.org/critrule.htm
 This is a local contest that I went to a few weeks ago.

http://www.robotwars.com/  Competitions are shown on channel 6, the PBS
station here in Denver, Saturday nights at 11:30.

http://www.battlebots.com/what.html  A friend loaned a tape that he made
from cable of final competitions held in Las Vegas IIRC. WOW. They have
a 400 pound class --- The crab-looking thing pictured at this link is
strong enough for the operator to stand on!!!

I think I will start smaller for the local Critter Crunch contest.


-- Rich


Dan Michaels wrote:
{Quote hidden}

--
http://www.piclist.com hint: PICList Posts must start with ONE topic:
"[PIC]:","[SX]:","[AVR]:" =uP ONLY! "[EE]:","[OT]:" =Other "[BUY]:","[AD]:" =Ads




2000\11\08@134558 by Dan Michaels

flavicon
face
Rich Ottosen wrote:
>Once you have built your 'bot then maybe you should enter it it in one
>of these contests ;-)
........
>
>I think I will start smaller for the local Critter Crunch contest.
>


Sandia builds movers the size of sugar cubes:

www.sandia.gov/isrc/Capabilities/Prototyping/Small_Smart_Machines
/small_smart_machines.html

Also, "Worm Brain Drives Tiny Car":

http://comm.uoregon.edu/inquiry/s99/art2.html

--
http://www.piclist.com hint: PICList Posts must start with ONE topic:
"[PIC]:","[SX]:","[AVR]:" =uP ONLY! "[EE]:","[OT]:" =Other "[BUY]:","[AD]:" =Ads




2000\11\10@044059 by Tom Handley

picon face
  Dan, the mechanical `slop' is terrible in the R/C cars that I've seen.
The tank that Radio Shack offers for around $50 looks promising with two
motors for the treads. For me, it's an excuse to study motor control as I
have very little experience there. I may add ultrasonic sensors in addition
to the IR. Still, it's a `sloppy' platform and it's main purpose is to
freak-out the cat ;-)

  Speaking of Parallax, I can't believe the price they charge for that
little robot... As far as web sites, I only found one a long time ago and I
forgot where it was. I was looking at R/C servo hacks to give them
continuous rotation. I found a lot of info on that subject.

  - Tom

At 09:10 PM 11/7/00 -0500, Dan Michaels wrote:
{Quote hidden}

------------------------------------------------------------------------
Tom Handley
New Age Communications
Since '75 before "New Age" and no one around here is waiting for UFOs ;-)

--
http://www.piclist.com hint: The PICList is archived three different
ways.  See http://www.piclist.com/#archives for details.




2000\11\10@121849 by Dan Michaels

flavicon
face
Tom Handley wrote:
>   Dan, the mechanical `slop' is terrible in the R/C cars that I've seen.
>The tank that Radio Shack offers for around $50 looks promising with two
>motors for the treads. For me, it's an excuse to study motor control as I
>have very little experience there. I may add ultrasonic sensors in addition
>to the IR. Still, it's a `sloppy' platform and it's main purpose is to
>freak-out the cat ;-)
>

Hi Tom,

[hmmm - I don't need a robot to freak the neighbor's cat - squirrels
in my backyard drive it crazy already].

By "slop", you mean backlash in the drive mechanism, or something else ????

Am not sure this would be a big problem for what I would like to do
- mainly obtain a mobile platform that I could add a few sensors to,
and which would form the foundation for playing with "higher" functions,
such as rudimentary learning, fuzzy logic control, neural net learning,
etc.

Idea would be to have the thing traipsing around on its own and sorting
out behavior that favors survival. Basically, something patterned after
Rodney Brooks' work - simple robust platforms with multiple layers of
control arranged hierarchically, and which co-opt lower level functions
as they are added:

http://www.ai.mit.edu/people/brooks/paperlist.html

"A Robust Layered Control System for a Mobile Robot"
"A Robot That Walks; Emergent Behaviors from a Carefully Evolved Network"
"Intelligence for Miniature Robots"
"Elephants Don't Play Chess"

[I figure multiple PICs headed by a king-Scenix - he, he].

Also, another reason I like the RC-car idea is that you could have 2
RC transmitters on different frequencies, put the 2nd one on the car
itself, and use it to xmit status info back to the base station
chimputer. Now that xmas/crazybuyingtime is here again, and new
RC-cars are on the shelves, it's time to look around again.
===============


>   Speaking of Parallax, I can't believe the price they charge for that
>little robot... As far as web sites, I only found one a long time ago and I
>forgot where it was. I was looking at R/C servo hacks to give them
>continuous rotation. I found a lot of info on that subject.
>

Yeah, I have always wondered how Parallax can stay in business at
the prices they charge, but ha - they're lots richer than me. Also,
I have looked at a number of mobile platforms for sale from robo-sites,
but they are all all extremely to-heavy designs, simple platforms on
wheels, and selling for >$250, or tiny little things.

Don't know if you caught this link, but this is an interesting mobile
job, albeit a little steep at $5000 -[and somehow connected with
Brooks]:

http://www.irobot.com/ir/index.htm

Still haven't found anything on RC-car robo-hacks.

best regards,
- Dan Michaels
Oricom Technologies
http://www.users.uswest.net/~oricom
===================================



{Quote hidden}

--
http://www.piclist.com hint: The PICList is archived three different
ways.  See http://www.piclist.com/#archives for details.




2000\11\10@190110 by miked

flavicon
face
> >There is a good option for building catipilar track base.
> >Use timing belt inside out so the teeth are the tred. Some belts
> >have a rubber backing that helps with power transfer from the
> >drive. If the environment for the base to run on is clean then the
> >belts could be driven from the touthed side.
>
> I believe it is also possible to get them with teeth both sides.
> They are rarer, but may also help if you are trying to make the sort
> of beast that wants to climb vertical walls (like a staircase for
> example).
>

Yes a buddy got some from Stock Drive Componets for a robot he
is building. About 1 inch wide is the widest they had. I've heard
there are double toothed timing belts on some German
cars(Porche?)

--
http://www.piclist.com hint: The PICList is archived three different
ways.  See http://www.piclist.com/#archives for details.




2000\11\10@195619 by Tom Handley

picon face
  Dan, the `mechanical slop' is gear "backlash" and steering linkage. As
someone else pointed out, you really need a platform with two motors to do
what you want. R/C `racer' cars are really not suitable for real robotic
experiments. Again, all I can do is go forward and backwards, and based on
mechanical and IR sensors, steer one way or the other while navigating.
Again, I was bored one day and hacked up this car... Heck, I'm a `pack-rat'
and the front bumber sensors is a SPACE bar from an old VT-100 terminal
with two keyboard switches at each end ;-)

  So far my PID is fairly crude. It does P and I but not D... Given that
this thing is suppose to wander around the house and it's around 14" long,
it tends to rely on bumper switches more than the IR to get out of trouble
;-). I've reached the point, and have the level of interest, that I want to
go forward with a new platform with two motors for steering. Again, as
someone mentioned, it would be nice to rotate around a point.

  A little more on my `crude' sensors; I needed several interrupts. I ended
up using a simple 74x30 8-Input NAND gate with pullup resistors. The output
went to RB.0. So when I get an RBIF, I read port B and to determine the
source of the interrupt. Since these sensors relate mostly to position,
`race' conditions were not a problem. In my case I have 4 bumber switches
and two IR sensors right now.

  The IR sensors use the simple Sharp module at 40KHz. I modulate four IR
LEDs at an offset of about 30 degrees from the front and rear. The first
problem I had was that it was too sensitive. It turns out that it's easier
to just reduce the modulation frequency so that the IR receiver only
demodulates the signal at a shorter range.

  I too have the same goals as you as far as a platform for adding sensors
and studying control methods (ie: Fuzzy Logic and others). I realized I
would not be able to do that with this platform. Still, it has allowed me to
study things I've long been interested in such as H-Bridges, PID, and
sensors related to an autonomous platfrom which I can apply later.

  Ya know... Given the talent in this group, I wonder if we could form a
company to bring simple robotics down to a reasonable price-level?
Parallax's pricing is ridiculous... As most have noted, buying a simple
platform with gears and motors is ridiculous... Anyway, just a thought...

  - Tom

At 12:18 PM 11/10/00 -0500, Dan Michaels wrote:
{Quote hidden}

------------------------------------------------------------------------
Tom Handley
New Age Communications
Since '75 before "New Age" and no one around here is waiting for UFOs ;-)

--
http://www.piclist.com hint: The PICList is archived three different
ways.  See http://www.piclist.com/#archives for details.




2000\11\11@133513 by Dan Michaels

flavicon
face
Interesting - I "discovered" the following site this morning
- note the URL:

Handy Board Mailing List Archives - The Handy Board is a Motorola
68HC11 powered controller intended for robotics applications.
                                      ^^^^^^^^
http://www.infosite.com/~jkeyzer/handy/

Found a thread discussing hacking an R/C M1 tank:

http://www.infosite.com/~jkeyzer/handy/1999/Sep/0029.html

Lotsa other threads about robotic, PID, etc control, too.

best regards,
- Dan Michaels
Oricom Technologies
http://www.users.uswest.net/~oricom
===================================

--
http://www.piclist.com#nomail Going offline? Don't AutoReply us!
use RemoveMElistservKILLspamspammitvma.mit.edu?body=SET%20PICList%20DIGEST




2000\11\12@134306 by Dan Michaels

flavicon
face
Tom Handley wrote:
>   Dan, the `mechanical slop' is gear "backlash" and steering linkage. As
>someone else pointed out, you really need a platform with two motors to do
>what you want. R/C `racer' cars are really not suitable for real robotic
>experiments. Again, all I can do is go forward and backwards, and based on
>mechanical and IR sensors, steer one way or the other while navigating.
>Again, I was bored one day and hacked up this car...


Hi Tom,

Finally found a useful RC-car hack. They used a Nikko Hummer, Ming
xmtr/rcvrs, and AVR controllers. They addressed some of the issues you
mentioned, like steering, and motor control. USed a servo for better
steering control, and designed an H-bridge for motor control that
they say produces snail speed up to original - I imagine not much
torque on the low end:

http://instruct1.cit.cornell.edu/courses/ee476/FinalProjects/s2000/ameer/

From their comments, it sounds like you may be right about problems
inherent with using an RC-car for robotic purposes, still some useful
info on the site.
================


>   So far my PID is fairly crude. It does P and I but not D... Given that
>this thing is suppose to wander around the house and it's around 14" long,
>it tends to rely on bumper switches more than the IR to get out of trouble
>;-). I've reached the point, and have the level of interest, that I want to
>go forward with a new platform with two motors for steering. Again, as
>someone mentioned, it would be nice to rotate around a point.
>

The latest Hummers by Nikko tout hi/low speeds and turbo burst
- not sure how they get this - certainly not gearing - maybe 2-speed
motors [this would be nice] - maybe simple current control [probably
marginally useful].

But still, according to the site cited above, the front axle of the
Hummer was pretty flimsy and they replaced a solenoid with a servo
for better control. Sounds non-optimal, but a possible.
====================

>
>   I too have the same goals as you as far as a platform for adding sensors
>and studying control methods (ie: Fuzzy Logic and others). I realized I
>would not be able to do that with this platform. Still, it has allowed me to
>study things I've long been interested in such as H-Bridges, PID, and
>sensors related to an autonomous platfrom which I can apply later.
>

Even with a non-optimal platform, sounds like you have a good start
on your project. Seems like you could think of it as a project where
higher-level control is used to help compensate for lower-level
weaknesses --> I think you'll find those Rodney Brooks' papers I
cited last time concentrating on systems designed precisely to do
just that.

And of course, fuzzy logic controllers are designed to do this too.
=====================


>   Ya know... Given the talent in this group, I wonder if we could form a
>company to bring simple robotics down to a reasonable price-level?
>Parallax's pricing is ridiculous... As most have noted, buying a simple
>platform with gears and motors is ridiculous... Anyway, just a thought...
>

Ahhh, grim realities of the market place. Remember the CUMP - original
idea was a $10 item that could replace multiple items costing lots
more. At any rate, most robot kits/etc I have run across so far do
not seem to be very expandible, or else are just the bare basics. I
suspect most people spend the majority of their time working from
the ground up, playing with the mechanical platform, getting to the
point you mentioned, and then go on vacation.

OTOH, I am most interested in getting past that point, and on to
more interesting higher control. If I actually tried to sell something
here, it would probably be geared towards adding higher-level
functionality to lower-level devices, ala Brooks.

best regards,
- Dan Michaels
==============

--
http://www.piclist.com hint: To leave the PICList
piclist-unsubscribe-requestSTOPspamspamspam_OUTmitvma.mit.edu




2000\11\12@190415 by Jinx

face picon face
"You have 10 seconds to drop the weapon"
=
=
=
=
"You have 5 seconds to drop the weapon"
=
=
=
=
"You have not dropped your weapon"

"I did, I did, I dropped it 8 secon........."

Rat-tat-tat-tat-blam-blam-blam-kaboom-kaboom-whirr-clunk

http://news.bbc.co.uk/hi/english/sci/tech/newsid_904000/904619.stm

--
http://www.piclist.com hint: To leave the PICList
spamBeGonepiclist-unsubscribe-requestSTOPspamspamEraseMEmitvma.mit.edu




2000\11\12@200138 by Dan Michaels

flavicon
face
At 01:04 PM 11/13/2000 +1300, you wrote:
>"You have 10 seconds to drop the weapon"
>=
>=
>=
>=
>"You have 5 seconds to drop the weapon"
>=
>=
>=
>=
>"You have not dropped your weapon"
>
>"I did, I did, I dropped it 8 secon........."
>
>Rat-tat-tat-tat-blam-blam-blam-kaboom-kaboom-whirr-clunk
>
>http://news.bbc.co.uk/hi/english/sci/tech/newsid_904000/904619.stm
>

Robo-cop - right?

--
http://www.piclist.com hint: To leave the PICList
KILLspampiclist-unsubscribe-requestspamBeGonespammitvma.mit.edu




2000\11\12@201005 by Dan Michaels

flavicon
face
At 01:04 PM 11/13/2000 +1300, you wrote:
>"You have 10 seconds to drop the weapon"
>=
>=
>=
>=
>"You have 5 seconds to drop the weapon"
>=
>=
>=
>=
>"You have not dropped your weapon"
>
>"I did, I did, I dropped it 8 secon........."
>
>Rat-tat-tat-tat-blam-blam-blam-kaboom-kaboom-whirr-clunk
>
>http://news.bbc.co.uk/hi/english/sci/tech/newsid_904000/904619.stm
>


Checked it - BBC News Sci/Tech - so this is how you stay in
touch with the home planet -[uh, country].

I went and saw new movie Red Planet yesterday - so so, scifi.
Had an interesting robot named AMEE - with reconnaisance and
"military" modes. On crash landing it accidentally got locked
into military mode, after which it ran around killing most of
the crew. No contest. Didn't even giv'em 8 seconds.

--
http://www.piclist.com hint: To leave the PICList
EraseMEpiclist-unsubscribe-requestspamEraseMEmitvma.mit.edu




2000\11\12@215413 by Jinx

face picon face
> >"I did, I did, I dropped it 8 secon........."
> >
> >Rat-tat-tat-tat-blam-blam-blam-kaboom-kaboom-whirr-clunk
> >
> >news.bbc.co.uk/hi/english/sci/tech/newsid_904000/904619.stm
> >
>
> Robo-cop - right?
>

Yessum, no one messes with OCP. Have to admire Mr.Sooraksa's
enthusiasm and optimism, but you know these things are all jolly
good fun until a 10 ton out-of-control metal maniac hurts someone

A little something from "Small Soldiers" would be nice for scaring
the tripes out of the cat. And it could pick them up too. Handing them
back to the cat could be at robot's discretion, just to make it interesting

One of the four other good stories on that page is about a robot that
powers itself from the slugs it kills (which sounds gruesome but is just
what we do for energy, hunting and trapping cheese sandwiches and
a cuppa at 2am)

http://news.bbc.co.uk/hi/english/sci/tech/newsid_503000/503149.stm

Now that could be an answer to powering a sea-borne robot ship as
discussed a few weeks back. It could catch its own micro-organisms
to make bio-gas

--
http://www.piclist.com hint: To leave the PICList
@spam@piclist-unsubscribe-request@spam@spamspam_OUTmitvma.mit.edu




2000\11\12@220031 by Jinx

face picon face
> >"I did, I did, I dropped it 8 secon........."
> >
> >Rat-tat-tat-tat-blam-blam-blam-kaboom-kaboom-whirr-clunk
> >
> >news.bbc.co.uk/hi/english/sci/tech/newsid_904000/904619.stm
> >
>
> Robo-cop - right?

http://www.ozcraft.com/cgibin/picview.cgi?robocop/robo_board.jpg

--
http://www.piclist.com hint: To leave the PICList
spamBeGonepiclist-unsubscribe-requestspamKILLspammitvma.mit.edu




2000\11\12@232935 by Jim Dolson

picon face
Hey Dan, thanks a lot.  I *was* going to see the movie.  Now that you gave
away the plot I guess I can scratch it off my list.  I *really* appreciate
your saving me and my wife the $10 that the movie would have cost.


{Original Message removed}

2000\11\13@040422 by Tom Handley

picon face
  Dan, I took a look at that Nikko Hummer and I've had similar problems. My
car has a mechanical lever to switch between high and low grear ratios but
even then, the ratio doesn't supply much torque at the low end. This car
uses an H-Bridge but no PWM in the original. Their "Turbo Boost" is simply
bumping the motor voltage from 6V to 12V. The front steering is a motor that
drives the wheels to one side or the other with a limit switches made out of
a cheap PCB with wiper arms. Anyway, I quickly decided to throw that out and
start from scratch...

  I built a versatile H-Bridge with jumper options for different control
methods as well as an on-board +5V logic supply. One configuration uses two
AND gates to allow control with a Direction and PWM input. Other options
include full control over the bridge including braking and "fuse-test" mode
if you are not careful ;-) I had engineering samples of TI's TPIC5201 and
TPIC2202 Dual N-Channel MOSFETs with built-in protection diodes supporting
7.5A continuous. The 2202 has a common source connection. The four bridge
inputs are opto-isolated with a jumper option to tie it to a common ground
with the motor and the +5V supply. One thing I would like to add is a charge
pump to provide +12V. Since this car had +6V and +12V I didn't need it.
There is plenty of room to add that and another bridge. The board is small
(2.5" x 3") with IDC headers so I can use it in other projects.

  I have one R/C servo which I want to use for steering. I designed a
simple 12C671-based R/C servo controller with a serial input. I have not
`hacked' the servo into the steering yet. Right now, I can still put it back
together and give it to a friend's kids so I'm still deciding which way to
go.

  Again, the problem is torque and the gear ratio. I'm using the 16F876's
PWM but I have to ramp up the PWM duty cycle quite a bit to get it to roll
and then back down to track my target tach speed. Right now it takes about
6-8 ft...

  I'll have to admit I'm addicted and, due to the modular nature of my
`hacks', I can easily use them on another platform. I would love to get into
"Battle Bots" but it takes lot's of money and time and I really don't
consider those robots, just R/C toys on steroids ;-)

  - Tom

At 01:43 PM 11/12/00 -0500, Dan Michaels wrote:
{Quote hidden}

------------------------------------------------------------------------
Tom Handley
New Age Communications
Since '75 before "New Age" and no one around here is waiting for UFOs ;-)

--
http://www.piclist.com hint: PICList Posts must start with ONE topic:
"[PIC]:","[SX]:","[AVR]:" =uP ONLY! "[EE]:","[OT]:" =Other "[BUY]:","[AD]:" =Ads




2000\11\13@104130 by Dan Michaels

flavicon
face
>Now that could be an answer to powering a sea-borne robot ship as
>discussed a few weeks back. It could catch its own micro-organisms
>to make bio-gas
>

This is the best idea yet.

--
http://www.piclist.com hint: PICList Posts must start with ONE topic:
"[PIC]:","[SX]:","[AVR]:" =uP ONLY! "[EE]:","[OT]:" =Other "[BUY]:","[AD]:" =Ads




2000\11\13@104930 by Dan Michaels

flavicon
face
Hi Jim,

Extremely sorry about this - ole Jinx-a-roonie tricked me
- sent some messages to me personally and some to piclist
under the same heading, at the same time. I didn't realize
this reply was going to piclist until too late - sorry.

- dan michaels
================

Jim Dolson wrote:
>Hey Dan, thanks a lot.  I *was* going to see the movie.  Now that you gave
>away the plot I guess I can scratch it off my list.  I *really* appreciate
>your saving me and my wife the $10 that the movie would have cost.
>
>
>{Original Message removed}

2000\11\13@111213 by Dan Michaels

flavicon
face
Tom Handley wrote:
>   Dan, I took a look at that Nikko Hummer and I've had similar problems. My
>car has a mechanical lever to switch between high and low grear ratios but
>even then, the ratio doesn't supply much torque at the low end. This car
>uses an H-Bridge but no PWM in the original. Their "Turbo Boost" is simply
>bumping the motor voltage from 6V to 12V. The front steering is a motor that
>drives the wheels to one side or the other with a limit switches made out of
>a cheap PCB with wiper arms. Anyway, I quickly decided to throw that out and
>start from scratch...
>

I was off looking at the RadioShack cars this weekend. I noticed
some of the 4WD trucks have a high-low switch on the differential
- indicating gear-switching. Not sure how many feet/sec the cars
go in low-gear. Of course, no one at RS can ever answer any
"technical" questions, but the high-gear on these cars is 500ft/min,
much below the 1200+ for the racers, so low-gear may be usable.
However, you seem pretty low on the RC-car route.

Also, I noticed RS and others have an M1 tank, with cat-treads
and a motor for each side - just the sort of thing you were after.
Have you checked this out? Probably pretty slow and torque-y.

Most of these 4WD jobs with low-gear say they can climb 37-45deg
slopes. sounds like plenty of torque. I wonder if the new year's
offerrings have addressed the slow-speed/high-torque issue better
than in the past.
==================

>   Again, the problem is torque and the gear ratio. I'm using the 16F876's
>PWM but I have to ramp up the PWM duty cycle quite a bit to get it to roll
>and then back down to track my target tach speed. Right now it takes about
>6-8 ft...
>

As mentioned, maybe the new year's 4WD trucks or the M1 tank do
better in the torque arena.
===========

>   I'll have to admit I'm addicted and, due to the modular nature of my
>`hacks', I can easily use them on another platform. I would love to get into
>"Battle Bots" but it takes lot's of money and time and I really don't
>consider those robots, just R/C toys on steroids ;-)
>

I figure about the "best" battle bot would be a thing with a
circular scythe that would stick out and flip over the enemy from
the side. [Leonardo invented this 500 years ago for hacking
enemy troops in two - but all you had to do was shoot the horse
that pulled it].

I think it would be fun to build an autonomous bot that would
wander around on its own and map the terrain. Come back home
for re-charging.

- danM

--
http://www.piclist.com hint: PICList Posts must start with ONE topic:
"[PIC]:","[SX]:","[AVR]:" =uP ONLY! "[EE]:","[OT]:" =Other "[BUY]:","[AD]:" =Ads




2000\11\13@134735 by Mark Willis

flavicon
face
Think "Hackers break in, use his own invention to kill inventor of
Internet-controlled roboguard."  I think I'll pass on this one, folks!

 Mark

Jinx wrote:
{Quote hidden}

--
http://www.piclist.com hint: PICList Posts must start with ONE topic:
"[PIC]:","[SX]:","[AVR]:" =uP ONLY! "[EE]:","[OT]:" =Other "[BUY]:","[AD]:" =Ads




2000\11\13@140825 by Dan Michaels

flavicon
face
At 10:47 AM 11/13/2000 -0800, you wrote:
>Think "Hackers break in, use his own invention to kill inventor of
>Internet-controlled roboguard."  I think I'll pass on this one, folks!
>
>  Mark
>

Roboguard doesn't recognize guy in the mirror. Gives self
8-seconds to comply. Shoots, bullets bounce off wall, destroying
robo-guard. End of matter.



{Quote hidden}

=Ads
>
>
>
>
>
>

--
http://www.piclist.com hint: PICList Posts must start with ONE topic:
"[PIC]:","[SX]:","[AVR]:" =uP ONLY! "[EE]:","[OT]:" =Other "[BUY]:","[AD]:" =Ads




2000\11\13@144959 by M. Adam Davis

flavicon
face
I've actually thought about this in some detail.  The comprssion
algorithms used in DIVX (stores a two hour movie at TV quality (slightly
below broadcast quality) on a CD, 650MB) are designed to pick out moving
objects from their background.  Other companies have technology to make a
3d data set that represents an object seen at two different camera angles.

Between these two technologies in a given(known) environment, it is
feasable to have an automated camera which could pick out people in a
room, with a good deal of precision.  Point at the person initially, and
the camera will follow them until they are out of range.  Using color,
height and build cues, it could even follow the individual if they've left
the field of view and come back in.  It can place their position within
the building to within a few centimeters.

Using simple motion or voice commands a person could point out the
intruder, and the system could automatically track that individual.  Very
useful for security cameras, which can zoom in on specified features in a
specified order (get the entire body, zoom in towards the face, have
another camera constant zoomed on the hands so we can see what they take
for insurance purposes, etc)

DIVX is open source, and lots of 3d work is done at many universities
which leave the work open for use.  Patents would be the only that would
stand in the way.

-Adam

Jinx wrote:
{Quote hidden}

--
http://www.piclist.com hint: PICList Posts must start with ONE topic:
"[PIC]:","[SX]:","[AVR]:" =uP ONLY! "[EE]:","[OT]:" =Other "[BUY]:","[AD]:" =Ads




2000\11\13@173040 by Bob Ammerman

picon face
----- Original Message -----
From: Dan Michaels <TakeThisOuToricom.....spamTakeThisOuTUSWEST.NET>
To: <TakeThisOuTPICLISTKILLspamspamspamMITVMA.MIT.EDU>
Sent: Monday, November 13, 2000 2:08 PM
Subject: Re: [EE]: How to control a motor


{Quote hidden}

Time to create a new PICLIST tag?

[SCRIPT]:

:-)

Bob Ammerman
RAm Systems
(contract development of high performance, high function, low-level
software)

--
http://www.piclist.com hint: PICList Posts must start with ONE topic:
"[PIC]:","[SX]:","[AVR]:" =uP ONLY! "[EE]:","[OT]:" =Other "[BUY]:","[AD]:" =Ads




2000\11\14@131146 by Tom Handley

picon face
  Dan, the Radio Shack Tank is called the "Sentinel" and has
two motors for the tracks and is around 14" long. That seems to
be the best bet for around $50. There is apparently a third motor
for the turret which you could hack for armor piercing rounds in
a Battle Bot contest ;-)

  It's suppose to be able to handle 45 deg slopes and by it's very
nature, should have more torque at the low end. It uses 6V (for the
motor I presume) and 9V.

  - Tom

At 11:12 AM 11/13/00 -0500, Dan Michaels wrote:
{Quote hidden}

------------------------------------------------------------------------
Tom Handley
New Age Communications
Since '75 before "New Age" and no one around here is waiting for UFOs ;-)

--
http://www.piclist.com hint: The list server can filter out subtopics
(like ads or off topics) for you. See http://www.piclist.com/#topics


2000\11\14@131736 by M. Adam Davis

flavicon
face
Unfortunately projectiles are not allowed in battlebots, IIRC. ;->

-Adam

Tom Handley wrote:
> There is apparently a third motor
> for the turret which you could hack for armor piercing rounds in
> a Battle Bot contest ;-)

--
http://www.piclist.com hint: The list server can filter out subtopics
(like ads or off topics) for you. See http://www.piclist.com/#topics


2000\11\14@133135 by Dan Michaels

flavicon
face
Tom Handley wrote:
>   Dan, the Radio Shack Tank is called the "Sentinel" and has
>two motors for the tracks and is around 14" long. That seems to
>be the best bet for around $50. There is apparently a third motor
>for the turret which you could hack for armor piercing rounds in
>a Battle Bot contest ;-)
>
>   It's suppose to be able to handle 45 deg slopes and by it's very
>nature, should have more torque at the low end. It uses 6V (for the
>motor I presume) and 9V.
>

Hi Tom,

I was looking at that tank. Sounds about ideal for what I am
after - really want something "slow" and torque-y. I suspect you
can steer it quite nicely using variable control on the motors.
Take off the turret, and have a nice flat platform for electronics.
COuld use the turret motor for panning a small CCD cam - or more
likely a light sensor for homing/recharge.

Since this will be autonomous, I already thought about having
a chain of lights around the house, flashing at different
frequencies - slower=farther from homebase - to help it find its
way back home.

In your case, you might want to mount a laser or acetylene cannon
ball launcher in the cannon tube. I figure I could mount a piezo
and use some squawks to scare the neighbor's cat - not hard to do.
[after the snow here melts, it can patrol the back yard and keep
the cat from chasing my pet squirrels - hmmm, pattern recognition].

best regards,
- Dan Michaels
Oricom Technologies
http://www.users.uswest.net/~oricom
===================================

--
http://www.piclist.com hint: The list server can filter out subtopics
(like ads or off topics) for you. See http://www.piclist.com/#topics


2000\11\14@133726 by Dan Michaels

flavicon
face
Adam Davis wrote:
>Unfortunately projectiles are not allowed in battlebots, IIRC. ;->
>
>-Adam
>
>Tom Handley wrote:
>> There is apparently a third motor
>> for the turret which you could hack for armor piercing rounds in
>> a Battle Bot contest ;-)
>

How about my idea from yesterday - [actually Leonardo's invention].
A rotating scythe that sweeps in front of the bot, and de-knees
its opponents from the side. Spring-load it.

And what about a trebuchet - swinging arm with a rock on the end
in a sling. In this case, you could keep the rock attached for 2nd
hits. Could develop a lot of momentum - crack the opponents like
eggshells.

- danM

--
http://www.piclist.com hint: The list server can filter out subtopics
(like ads or off topics) for you. See http://www.piclist.com/#topics


2000\11\14@141734 by jamesnewton

face picon face
Guys, can we go to [OT]: on this please? Thanks...

---
James Newton (PICList Admin #3)
.....jamesnewtonspamRemoveMEpiclist.com 1-619-652-0593
PIC/PICList FAQ: http://www.piclist.com or .org

{Original Message removed}

2000\11\15@105225 by John Clements

flavicon
face
Tom, I  have seen a tank vehicle at Target about $25.  Has a wire 'remote' that
allows for left forward/back, right forward/back and turent rotation.  Of
course it's cheap, but possible a good 'hack'

John Clements
RemoveMEjcclemenspamspamBeGonetrip.net
http://www.cclug.org


Tom Handley wrote:

{Quote hidden}

--
http://www.piclist.com hint: The PICList is archived three different
ways.  See http://www.piclist.com/#archives for details.


2000\11\15@162720 by Tom Handley

picon face
  John, thanks for the info. Actually I should check there and Toys'R'Us.
You
could save $$ by getting rid of the R/C. Like Dan, I'm interested in
autonomous
operation. I've decided to add a 2nd H-Bridge with a PIC16F84 to my
controller.
That way I can control two motors via RS-232 or direct serial input. My IR
proximity detector uses a PIC12C508. I'm definitely keeping things modular.

  - Tom

At 09:48 AM 11/15/00 -0600, John Clements wrote:
>Tom, I  have seen a tank vehicle at Target about $25.  Has a wire 'remote'
that
>allows for left forward/back, right forward/back and turent rotation.  Of
>course it's cheap, but possible a good 'hack'
>
>John Clements
>spamBeGonejcclemen@spam@spamspam_OUTtrip.net
>http://www.cclug.org


------------------------------------------------------------------------
Tom Handley
New Age Communications
Since '75 before "New Age" and no one around here is waiting for UFOs ;-)

--
http://www.piclist.com hint: The PICList is archived three different
ways.  See http://www.piclist.com/#archives for details.


2000\11\15@162724 by Tom Handley

picon face
  Dan, if you do get that tank, please keep us informed. I may get
one. I thought about using the turret platform for IR or ultrasonic
sensors. Like a RADAR. Depending how sturdy it is, it should be
possible to mount other sensors. I'm sure it's cheap plastic but
you could always mount something else to the motor.

  - Tom

At 01:31 PM 11/14/00 -0500, Dan Michaels wrote:
{Quote hidden}

------------------------------------------------------------------------
Tom Handley
New Age Communications
Since '75 before "New Age" and no one around here is waiting for UFOs ;-)

--
http://www.piclist.com hint: The PICList is archived three different
ways.  See http://www.piclist.com/#archives for details.


2000\11\15@201041 by Dan Michaels

flavicon
face
Tom Handley wrote:
>   John, thanks for the info. Actually I should check there and Toys'R'Us.
>You
>could save $$ by getting rid of the R/C. Like Dan, I'm interested in
>autonomous
>operation. I've decided to add a 2nd H-Bridge with a PIC16F84 to my
>controller.
>That way I can control two motors via RS-232 or direct serial input. My IR
>proximity detector uses a PIC12C508. I'm definitely keeping things modular.
>

Actually, I am favoring the idea of initial Rs-232 inter-comm,
followed by autonomous operation, followed by having a 2-way
R/C link - one for control-out, other for sense-feedback
from the car/tank - one 27, other 47Mhz. Would probably buy
the "cheapest" R/C toy I could find to get the 2nd [feedback]
link. Both links would be kinda slow, but shoot - "autonomous"
means you're basically on your own.

- danM

--
http://www.piclist.com hint: The PICList is archived three different
ways.  See http://www.piclist.com/#archives for details.


2000\11\15@201907 by Dan Michaels

flavicon
face
Tom Handley wrote:
>   Dan, if you do get that tank, please keep us informed. I may get
>one. I thought about using the turret platform for IR or ultrasonic
>sensors. Like a RADAR. Depending how sturdy it is, it should be
>possible to mount other sensors. I'm sure it's cheap plastic but
>you could always mount something else to the motor.
>

I still like the 4WD trucks with low-range and turbo boost,
but need to find someone who can actually tell me what the
specs are - none of the salespeople or websites seems to carry
this kind of info. Yesterday, I talked to the R/C car
"specialist" at one of the local hobby shops on the phone
- about 15 YO, and all he knew from was how fast would
his car go - he, he.

However, the idea of 2-motor drive and revolving turret for
panning a sensor has lots of appeal too. And I imagine the
plastic cannot be "too" cheap, else these things wouldn't
last a day in normal use.

- danM

--
http://www.piclist.com hint: The PICList is archived three different
ways.  See http://www.piclist.com/#archives for details.


2000\11\16@063108 by Alok Dubey

flavicon
face
does anyone here know how to make a tracking system.. i want to emulate a
satellite tracking system
alok


{Original Message removed}

2000\11\16@104145 by Dan Michaels

flavicon
face
alok wrote:
>does anyone here know how to make a tracking system.. i want to emulate a
>satellite tracking system


Some of those MIT and Cornell links that I mentioned have
moborobos that track lines drawn on the pavement.

--
http://www.piclist.com#nomail Going offline? Don't AutoReply us!
email TakeThisOuTlistservspamspammitvma.mit.edu with SET PICList DIGEST in the body


2000\11\16@214854 by Dan Michaels

flavicon
face
Tom Handley wrote:
>   Dan, if you do get that tank, please keep us informed. I may get
>one. I thought about using the turret platform for IR or ultrasonic
>sensors. Like a RADAR. Depending how sturdy it is, it should be
>possible to mount other sensors. I'm sure it's cheap plastic but
>you could always mount something else to the motor.
>

Hi Tom,

- I discovered the "tank web" on the net - clubs that specialize
 in R/C tanks/etc -[not sure, but these guys may be heavy into
 cannons - they call it "armour"]:

- tanks you can buy:
 http://www.modeltanks.fsnet.co.uk/tankspecs.htm

- really nice picture of model tank innards - 2 motors, geared
 way down, not sure how they synchronize the speeds:
 http://www.modeltanks.fsnet.co.uk/tamiyam1a1.htm

- modifications - dual-motors, gear trains:
 http://www.geocities.com/lunchbuckit/mods.html

- also:
 www.geocities.com/Pentagon/Quarters/5736/
 www.geocities.com/Pentagon/Quarters/5736/links.html
 http://www.rconline.com
 http://www.rcarmorforum.org/

- hmmm, appears to be a lot more money in R/C modeling than in
 PICs :).

best regards,
- Dan Michaels
Oricom Technologies
http://www.users.uswest.net/~oricom
===================================

--
http://www.piclist.com#nomail Going offline? Don't AutoReply us!
email listservEraseMEspammitvma.mit.edu with SET PICList DIGEST in the body


2000\11\18@115429 by dre Domingos F. Souza

flavicon
face
>However, the idea of 2-motor drive and revolving turret for
>panning a sensor has lots of appeal too. And I imagine the
>plastic cannot be "too" cheap, else these things wouldn't
>last a day in normal use.

       Dunno how much do you want to spend, but traxxas seems to have a good dual motor/battery pick-up.

       I also have some interesting R/C things here (almost everything that moves - Pickup, buggy, airplane (electric), pickup, helicopter, airplane (nitro)). I like to do RC projects. The newer thing I'm doing is the R/C "Bandit", a buggy with a videocamera and TV transmitter - the camera will have pan & tilt and will be at +- 5 cm from the ground. It will really be fun to follow the airplanes in the take-off :o) the next wil be a VTOL veichle, but I think I can't speak too much at this moment, he he he ;oD


--------------8<-------Corte aqui-------8<--------------

       All the best!!!
       Alexandre Souza
       RemoveMExandinhoEraseMEspamspam_OUTinterlink.com.br
       Linux User #85093

--------------8<-------Corte aqui-------8<--------------

--
http://www.piclist.com hint: PICList Posts must start with ONE topic:
[PIC]:,[SX]:,[AVR]: ->uP ONLY! [EE]:,[OT]: ->Other [BUY]:,[AD]: ->Ads


2000\11\22@213103 by Dan Michaels

flavicon
face
Alexandre Souza wrote:
........
>
>        Dunno how much do you want to spend, but traxxas seems to
have a good dual motor/battery pick-up.
>

Finally got around to looking at the traxxas cars. They appear
to be extremely well made devices, however, they are clearly much
too fast for what Tom and I have in mind. Some do 50 MPh, and
these things also have rear wheel "toe-in" to keep them from
spinning out in the corners. I am afraid my poor wobbly knees
couldn't take this sort of punishment.

thanks,
- dan michaels
==============

--
http://www.piclist.com hint: To leave the PICList
@spam@piclist-unsubscribe-requestRemoveMEspamEraseMEmitvma.mit.edu


2000\11\22@215859 by dre Domingos F. Souza

flavicon
face
>Finally got around to looking at the traxxas cars. They appear
>to be extremely well made devices, however, they are clearly much
>too fast for what Tom and I have in mind. Some do 50 MPh, and
>these things also have rear wheel "toe-in" to keep them from
>spinning out in the corners. I am afraid my poor wobbly knees
>couldn't take this sort of punishment.

       Of course you can limit the speed with slower motors (stronger and slower?) or PWM. I'm still playing with electric airplanes, instead :o)

       By the way, I have a Sandmaster MK2 (pickup, nitro). I'm looking for a street car, preferably an AMG Mercedez-Benz D2 or like (that beautiful black). Can be nitro or electric. If anyone wants to exchange...


--------------8<-------Corte aqui-------8<--------------

       All the best!!!
       Alexandre Souza
       EraseMExandinhospam@spam@interlink.com.br
       Linux User #85093

--------------8<-------Corte aqui-------8<--------------

--
http://www.piclist.com hint: To leave the PICList
@spam@piclist-unsubscribe-requestspam_OUTspam.....mitvma.mit.edu


More... (looser matching)
- Last day of these posts
- In 2000 , 2001 only
- Today
- New search...