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PICList Thread
'[EE]: Clear PCBs'
2002\08\21@141651 by Nick Stedman

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Hi
Are there any clear plastics to print a circuit onto, for a PCB? If so,
which company offers the material as an option?
Thanks
Nick

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2002\08\21@142649 by Dominic Stratten

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Nick, I use an Epson Inkjet with transparency film sourced from Paperselect
in the UK - http://www.paperselect.co.uk . We use them for UV work (Screenprinting
and PCB Manufacture). This combination is the only reliable way we've done
it (we've been doing it for 5 years now without problems). Only Epson ink
seems dense enough. We use the glossy film setting. This may not be what
you're after but worth a comment.

Cheers

Dominic
{Original Message removed}

2002\08\21@143526 by denis

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Hi,

Me too I don't have Any problem With the Epson Inkjet, I try some another
printer (HP, Canon) and the density of the Inket is not enough for make the
UV transfer.

Denis

PS: escuse for my english


{Original Message removed}

2002\08\21@144318 by Brendan Moran

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> Hi
> Are there any clear plastics to print a circuit onto, for a PCB? If
> so, which company offers the material as an option?
> Thanks
> Nick

I think everyone has confuse this question.  I think he meant "Where
can I get a PCB that is clear except for my traces"  As in:  Once the
PCB is finished, you can see through it.

My advice?  Copper tape, or something similar.  You could try making
your own PCB by epoxying very thin copper sheet to clear plastic,
then etching it off again.  I don't know how well that would work,
but I'd say it's your best bet short of a company that will do it for
you.

Oh, and have you checked the conductivity of laser printer ink?  I
know that normal pencil carbon is fairly conductive with enough of it
together.  If you're doing a pure digital circuit, you might be able
to just print it on (Provided, of course, that the toner is
conductive.  I don't know if it is) :)

- --Brendan
- ---
"Rejection out of hand of all but one's favoured alternative may cost
you dearly in one way or another." -Russell McMahon

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2002\08\21@144725 by Nick Stedman

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Thanks for the responses, but I should clarify. I'm looking for a clear
plastic for the circuit board itself...like plexiglass.
Cheers,
Nick

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2002\08\21@152347 by Dominic Stratten

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We tried every printer under the sun before we hit on the Epson. We actually
ended up with the Stylus 1520 as it was an A3/A2 printer. We purchase A3
film for 1ukp per sheet and can do an awful lot of UV work with A3. Laser
was too transparent and other manufacturers (i.e. HP/Canon etc)  ink didn't
seem to work as well. Suprisingly, I tried a cheap oem cartridge
(Printrite - http://www.paperselect.co.uk) on my Epson Stylus 760 and the density
was perfect. At 1/4 the cost of a genuine Epson cartridge, this is cool ;-)

For those of you who make their own PCB's, Epson printer second hand -
$40-50, inkjet transparencies (watch what you use - try paperselect first
and tell them you want the stuff Dominic had ) around $25 per 50 sheets.

Nice and cheap ;-)

Cheers

Dominic
{Original Message removed}

2002\08\21@163341 by mike

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For lasers, tracing paper works very well, and is very cheap.
On Wed, 21 Aug 2002 20:23:37 +0100, you wrote:

>We tried every printer under the sun before we hit on the Epson. We actually
>ended up with the Stylus 1520 as it was an A3/A2 printer. We purchase A3
>film for 1ukp per sheet and can do an awful lot of UV work with A3. Laser
>was too transparent and other manufacturers (i.e. HP/Canon etc)  ink didn't
>seem to work as well. Suprisingly, I tried a cheap oem cartridge
>(Printrite - http://www.paperselect.co.uk) on my Epson Stylus 760 and the density
>was perfect. At 1/4 the cost of a genuine Epson cartridge, this is cool ;-)
>
>For those of you who make their own PCB's, Epson printer second hand -
>$40-50, inkjet transparencies (watch what you use - try paperselect first
>and tell them you want the stuff Dominic had ) around $25 per 50 sheets.
>
>Nice and cheap ;-)
>
>Cheers
>
>Dominic
>{Original Message removed}

2002\08\21@164352 by Sid Weaver

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In a message dated 08/21/2002 14:48:39 Eastern Daylight Time,
spam_OUTnickstedmanTakeThisOuTspamSYMPATICO.CA writes:


> Thanks for the responses, but I should clarify. I'm looking for a clear
> plastic for the circuit board itself...like plexiglass.
> Cheers,
>

Nick, search the web for copper-coated Mylar.  Mylar is a very strong, very
flexible  polyester film and will take temperatures up to 125 deg. C.

Sid

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2002\08\22@044544 by Roman Black

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Sid Weaver wrote:
>
> In a message dated 08/21/2002 14:48:39 Eastern Daylight Time,
> .....nickstedmanKILLspamspam@spam@SYMPATICO.CA writes:
>
> > Thanks for the responses, but I should clarify. I'm looking for a clear
> > plastic for the circuit board itself...like plexiglass.
> > Cheers,
> >
>
> Nick, search the web for copper-coated Mylar.  Mylar is a very strong, very
> flexible  polyester film and will take temperatures up to 125 deg. C.


Something like mylar may not be stiff enough
for the inteneded application. Perpex/acrylic etc
may be too brittle, it is hard to drill with small
drill bits and may crack or even melt on some holes.
:o)
-Roman

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2002\08\22@131019 by M. Adam Davis

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You silkscreen a layer of conductive silver paste onto it for the
traces, then use glue to secure the parts to the board with a little
more paste to connect the pins to the traces.

Use a high temperature plastic, and use surface mount parts with a
compatible glue.

Of course there are a multitude of problems associated with such an
approach, but this seems to be the easiest.

-Adam

Nick Stedman wrote:

{Quote hidden}

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