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'[EE:] removing varnish from magnet wire'
2004\08\13@114132 by Martin Klingensmith

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What is the standard procedure for removing the varnish/coating that is
on magnet wire? I find it to be a royal pain.
Thanks

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2004\08\13@115548 by Mike Harrison

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On Fri, 13 Aug 2004 11:41:02 -0400, you wrote:

>What is the standard procedure for removing the varnish/coating that is
>on magnet wire? I find it to be a royal pain.

Very hot soldering iron (380-400 deg.C), dip end into blob of solder on tip. Avoid the fumes.
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2004\08\13@121455 by Randy Abernathy

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In a message dated 8/13/2004 11:59:51 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
martinspamKILLspamNNYTECH.NET writes:

What is  the standard procedure for removing the varnish/coating that is
on magnet  wire? I find it to be a royal pain.
Thanks



Just off the end of the wire so you can solder it?  If so, I use  some fine
emery cloth to do the trick.  Otherwise you can use a very very  hot soldering
iron.

Randy  Abernathy
4626 Old Stilesboro Road NW
Acworth, GA 30101-4066
Phone /  Fax: 770-974-5295
Cell: 678-772-4113
E-mail: .....Cnc002KILLspamspam.....aol.com

I  furnish technical support, repair, and other related services for your
industrial woodworking machinery. My background as Senior Service Engineer for
the SCMI Group for nearly fifteen years with factory training, combines with
my  extensive background in electronics, mechanics, pneumatics, electrical and
CNC  machinery to offer you needed support for your  machinery.

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2004\08\13@121456 by Stef Mientki

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lay it on an asperine and put the solder iron on it
Stef

Martin Klingensmith wrote:

{Quote hidden}

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2004\08\13@123515 by Olin Lathrop

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Martin Klingensmith wrote:
> What is the standard procedure for removing the varnish/coating that
> is on magnet wire? I find it to be a royal pain.

I usually just scrape it with a screw driver or some other object with a
hard edge.


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(978) 742-9014, http://www.embedinc.com

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2004\08\13@124135 by Shawn Wilton

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Wire strippers.  Don't use a lighter.  Wrecks the wire.


Shawn Wilton
Junior in CpE
MicroBiologist

Phone: (503) 881-2707
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http://black9.net


Olin Lathrop wrote:
{Quote hidden}

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2004\08\13@131253 by Jack Krause

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GC Electronics makes a product called Strip-X for stripping enamel from
wire.  You coat the wire with the compound, let it sit a bit, and then wipe
off the varnish.  The stuff works quite well for most types of enamel but
Formvar(r) takes more time to soften.  The stuff stinks, so you want to use
it where there's ventilation.  I haven't used the stuff in 20 years, but I
see on the web that it's still out there.

Bill Krause

{Original Message removed}

2004\08\13@132125 by Randy Abernathy

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In a message dated 8/13/2004 1:14:15 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
RemoveMEbbkrausespamTakeThisOuTPACBELL.NET writes:

GC  Electronics makes a product called Strip-X for stripping enamel  from
wire.  You coat the wire with the compound, let it sit a bit, and  then wipe
off the varnish.  The stuff works quite well for most types  of enamel but
Formvar(r) takes more time to soften.  The stuff stinks,  so you want to use
it where there's ventilation.  I haven't used the  stuff in 20 years, but I
see on the web that it's still out  there.

Bill Krause



It works pretty well but it does stink, downright sickening.

Randy  Abernathy
4626 Old Stilesboro Road NW
Acworth, GA 30101-4066
Phone /  Fax: 770-974-5295
Cell: 678-772-4113
E-mail: Cnc002EraseMEspam.....aol.com

I  furnish technical support, repair, and other related services for your
industrial woodworking machinery. My background as Senior Service Engineer for
the SCMI Group for nearly fifteen years with factory training, combines with
my  extensive background in electronics, mechanics, pneumatics, electrical and
CNC  machinery to offer you needed support for your  machinery.

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2004\08\13@133328 by David Challis

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Alas, GC no longer makes Strip-X. They say that it was "not environmentally
friendly". No kidding. Anyone know of any commercial substitutes? Maybe a
killer paint stripping compound?

Dave Challis

{Original Message removed}

2004\08\13@134406 by Bob Axtell

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I always use MEK (methyl ethyl ketone). Its chemically one shot stronger
than Acetone.
It will remove it, but it is VERY powerful- and it stinks.

Get it at Sherwin-Williams.

--Bob

David Challis wrote:

>Alas, GC no longer makes Strip-X. They say that it was "not environmentally
>friendly". No kidding. Anyone know of any commercial substitutes? Maybe a
>killer paint stripping compound?
>
>Dave Challis
>
>{Original Message removed}

2004\08\13@140104 by Bob Blick

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> What is the standard procedure for removing the varnish/coating that is
> on magnet wire? I find it to be a royal pain.

Paint remover works OK. Some brands are better than others. The low-VOC
stuff now in California doesn't work very well, but it doesn't strip paint
very well either.

Cheers,

Bob

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2004\08\13@141352 by Jack Krause

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Well shucks.  I'll have to add GC Strip-X to the list of other stuff I can't
get anymore - Like chlordane for my termites.

I had the same thought as Dave: What about paint stripper?  So... I went out
in the garage and tried it.  Dipped the wire end in the stripper.  Let it
sit 15 min (less probably would have been fine, it turns out).  Wiped off
the remover AND the varnish.  The copper looks pristine.  The stripper I
used (because it was what was sitting on the shelf) is (coincidentally)
Klean-Strip Strip-X Stripper, but it smells pretty much like the other
solvent-based strippers I've used in the past.  The main stripping agents in
the stuff appear to be acetone and methylene chloride.

Bill Krause

{Original Message removed}

2004\08\13@142639 by Randy Abernathy

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In a message dated 8/13/2004 2:06:32 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
RemoveMEbblickspam_OUTspamKILLspamSONIC.NET writes:

Paint  remover works OK. Some brands are better than others. The low-VOC
stuff now  in California doesn't work very well, but it doesn't strip paint
very well  either.

Cheers,

Bob




AMEN, all these new environmentally friendly chemicals just haven't  been
quite perfected, yet.

I still hold that the easiest and best way I have found to get the varnish
off of the wire for soldering is to use a fine sandpaper/emery cloth.

Randy  Abernathy
4626 Old Stilesboro Road NW
Acworth, GA 30101-4066
Phone /  Fax: 770-974-5295
Cell: 678-772-4113
E-mail: RemoveMECnc002TakeThisOuTspamspamaol.com

I  furnish technical support, repair, and other related services for your
industrial woodworking machinery. My background as Senior Service Engineer for
the SCMI Group for nearly fifteen years with factory training, combines with
my  extensive background in electronics, mechanics, pneumatics, electrical and
CNC  machinery to offer you needed support for your  machinery.

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2004\08\13@142639 by Randy Abernathy

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In a message dated 8/13/2004 2:06:12 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
RemoveMEengineerKILLspamspamCOTSE.NET writes:

always  use MEK (methyl ethyl ketone). Its chemically one shot stronger
than  Acetone.
It will remove it, but it is VERY powerful- and it  stinks.

Get it at  Sherwin-Williams.

--Bob



And you don't want to breathe much of it either

Randy  Abernathy
4626 Old Stilesboro Road NW
Acworth, GA 30101-4066
Phone /  Fax: 770-974-5295
Cell: 678-772-4113
E-mail: Cnc002STOPspamspamspam_OUTaol.com

I  furnish technical support, repair, and other related services for your
industrial woodworking machinery. My background as Senior Service Engineer for
the SCMI Group for nearly fifteen years with factory training, combines with
my  extensive background in electronics, mechanics, pneumatics, electrical and
CNC  machinery to offer you needed support for your  machinery.

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2004\08\13@142847 by Roland

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At 11:41 AM 13/08/2004 -0400, you wrote:
>What is the standard procedure for removing the varnish/coating that is
>on magnet wire? I find it to be a royal pain.
>Thanks
>

If you're buying the stuff, you get two types. One needs mechanical
removal(usually on thick wires, >1mm) and is usually yellow in colour.

Otherwise there is another type invented for the reason you describe, and
has a reddish colour. This coating is a self-fluxing coating, and is a
breeze to use. Just collect a dollop of solder on your iron, and pass the
wire through, tinned!
You can solder it directly into a hole, but needs a bit more heat.

You surely can get this wire in the states.

Regards
Roland Jollivet

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2004\08\13@150129 by Richard E. Teague

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My PGP fingerprint: B898 C96D 336B 5A5D BB41 7B05 A396 060A C1DD C37B

Any paint stripper which contains methylene chloride should work pretty
well. The active ingredients in GC Strip-x were methylene chloride and
phenol.



{Original Message removed}

2004\08\13@161542 by Win Wiencke

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> GC Electronics makes a product called Strip-X for stripping enamel from
> wire.

I think the active ingredient is MEK (Methyl Ethyl Ketone?) -- a truly nasty
solvent.

Win Wiencke
Image Logic Corporation

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2004\08\13@165937 by Martin Klingensmith

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Martin Klingensmith wrote:
> What is the standard procedure for removing the varnish/coating that is
> on magnet wire? I find it to be a royal pain.
> Thanks
>

Thanks for the recommendations everyone. I used some cheap wire
strippers and managed to cut the 26AWG wire about half the time.

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2004\08\13@190752 by Russell McMahon

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>  Any paint stripper which contains methylene chloride should work pretty
> well. The active ingredients in GC Strip-x were methylene chloride and
> phenol.

Methylene Chloride is very effective as a paint stripper BUT do note that it
is extremely poisonous and can be absorbed through skin contact. AFAIR it is
a liver poison.


       RM

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2004\08\14@120605 by Dwayne Reid

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At 09:41 AM 8/13/2004, Martin Klingensmith wrote:
>What is the standard procedure for removing the varnish/coating that is
>on magnet wire? I find it to be a royal pain.

How thick is the wire?  I use three methods: heavy wire (20 AWG or thicker)
gets hit with the flame from a butane torch, then sanded with fine-grit
(220-320) sandpaper.  Thin wire just sanded with fine-grit
sandpaper.  Really thin wire is usually solderable and just gets burned
through by holding it in a molten blob of solder on my soldering iron
tip.  Add fresh solder as required to ensure adequate flux.

I keep a bottle of chemical enameled wire stripper around but I can't
remember the last time I used it.

dwayne

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2004\08\14@165827 by David Koski

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Some coatings are made to be "solder through" and the wire can be soldered at
about 700-750 DEG F without stripping.

On Fri, 13 Aug 2004 11:41:02 -0400
Martin Klingensmith <TakeThisOuTmartin.....spamTakeThisOuTNNYTECH.NET> wrote:

{Quote hidden}

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2004\08\28@222551 by hilip Stortz

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doubtless correct.  you can always do a google search for the msds, i do
that often.  Methlyene Chloride will also dissolve epoxy given enough
time to soak, i had to do this once, truly nasty stuff!  if it hadn't
been an unusual thing for us to do (recovering the raw glass from corner
cubes epoxied into aluminum mounting rings, unfortunately the epoxy tore
the silvering, but the cubes can be recoated for a lot less than new
corner cubes, i.e. retroreflectors for a laser beam) i would have
insisted on a fume hood!  definitely have very good ventilation.  then
again, i now own 2 respirators, and filters are a lot cheaper than
livers, hell, the whole "north" respirators were cheap.

Russell McMahon wrote:
------
> Methylene Chloride is very effective as a paint stripper BUT do note that it
> is extremely poisonous and can be absorbed through skin contact. AFAIR it is
> a liver poison.
--------


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2004\08\30@103929 by Lawrence Lile

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Ah, good old methylene chloride.  We used to regularly have people quit work and go on disability from getting contact dermatitis from the stuff when I worked in a plastics plant.  Despite our warnings, they'd be washing their hands in the stuff.  After a year and a half at this job, I fell ill with a poorly explained disease and thankfully got the flock out of there.  More than once I was rendered slaphappy by various kinds of paint or solvent fumes.  Gives me the shivers now.

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> {Original Message removed}

2004\08\30@194636 by Jinx

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The Phoenix wire I bought recently is described as self-fluxing. I
hadn't used it before but it appears to solder OK without removing
the enamel

http://www.phoenixwireinc.com

and Versa

http://www.versaelectronics.com/

http://www.dse.co.nz  Product code W3123 to get magnet wire page




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2004\08\31@025205 by Russell McMahon

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Don't breath too deeply while soldering.
I believe it may generate Hydrogen Cyanide fumes or perhaps other cyanide
products.


{Quote hidden}

"Super glue" or "elephant glue" = cyanoacrylates and polyurethane glues all
contain cyanide, which can be released in various forms on heating -
sometimes the name warns you, sometimes not.

I have no idea how bad for you the fumes are, but .....


           RM


Useful page on practical aspects of coil winding

       http://www.ee.surrey.ac.uk/Workshop/advice/coils/

Found while googling on self fluxing and cyanide.


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2004\08\31@051454 by Jinx

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> I have no idea how bad for you the fumes are, but .....

...... they're probably not full of vitamins

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2004\08\31@074634 by Russell McMahon

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> > I have no idea how bad for you the fumes are, but .....
>
> ...... they're probably not full of vitamins

Who says?
"Vitamin" is, after all, just a name for a "useful" chemical compound.
Maybe this has Vitamin Cy.



   RM

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2004\08\31@080453 by Jinx

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> > > I have no idea how bad for you the fumes are, but .....
> >
> > ...... they're probably not full of vitamins
>
> Who says?
> "Vitamin" is, after all, just a name for a "useful" chemical compound.
> Maybe this has Vitamin Cy.

Like weeds are just flowers people have a downer on ?

Hmmm, anyway, OK. You add Vitamin Cy to your intake, I'll stick
to A C E thanks. Don't forget to look into the LD50 rate BTW

(then again, Botox - who'd have thought...?)

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