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'Muscle Wires(R) FAQ (fwd)'
1994\11\30@172644
by
crocontroller discussion list
|
PIC Users,
In response to several questions about Muscle Wires I have
forwarded a copy of the latest FAQ file from Mondotronics, the company
that makes them. Roger Gilbertson, the president, makes his e-mail
address available for other questions. It is in the FAQ.
Have fun,
Martin Kirk
Arizona State University
spam_OUTmlkTakeThisOuT
asu.edu
(602) 263-9270
---------- Forwarded message ----------
Date: Tue, 29 Nov 1994 19:38:11 -0800
From: Roger G. Gilbertson <.....mondoKILLspam
@spam@mondo.com>
To: mlk
KILLspamasu.edu
Subject: Muscle Wires(R) FAQ
Hello Martin -
Thank you for your interest in our Muscle Wires(R) products. Here's our
latest Muscle Wires Frequently Asked Questions file. We also have a product
flyer as a separate email file. Please request it from us if you have not
received it already.
If you provide us with your postal address we will send you our printed
version (with photos) and keep you informed with future mailings.
Thanks again for your interest!
Roger G. Gilbertson
President
/\ /\ /\
//\\//\\//\\ Mondo-tronics, Inc. Phone 415-455-9330
///// // // ///// 524 San Anselmo Ave #107-20 Fax 415-455-9333
\\//\\//\\// San Anselmo, CA 94960 email .....infoKILLspam
.....mondo.com
\/ \/ \/ USA Order Line 800-374-5764
======================================================================
MUSCLE WIRES - FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
email V10
Q: What are Muscle Wires?
A: Muscle Wires are thin, highly processed strands of a nickel-titanium
alloy called nitinol - a type of Shape Memory Alloy that can assume
radically different forms or "phases" at distinct temperatures.
Q: How do Muscle Wires work?
A: At room temperature Muscle Wires are easily stretched by a small force.
However, when conducting an electric current, the wire heats and changes to
a much harder form that returns to the "unstretched" shape - the wire
shortens in length with a usable amount of force.
Q: How much do Muscle Wires shorten?
A: Muscle Wires can be stretched by up to eight percent of their length and
will recover fully, but only for a few cycles. However when used in the
three to five percent range, Muscle Wires can run for millions of cycles
with very consistent and reliable performance.
Q: How strong are Muscle Wires?
A: Large wires are stronger than small ones, and strength varies with
diameter. The strength to expect from a wire when heated is shown by the
Recovery Weight in the table below.
The Deformation Weight indicates the amount needed to stretch a wire when
cool - about one sixth the force exerted when the wire is heated. Our
largest wire has over 45 times the strength of the smallest size, so you
can easily match wire strength to your needs.
Q: What if I need more strength?
A: For more strength, use two or more wires in parallel. This gives you as
much strength as needed, and still keeps the fast cycle times of smaller
wires.
Q: How fast can Muscle Wires activate?
A: Muscle Wires contract as fast as they are heated - in one thousandth of
a second or less. To relax, the wire must be cooled, which depends on the
conditions surrounding the wire, and its size. Our new Flexinol HT series
of wires has a higher transition temperature and cools up to 50% faster
than the LT wires. The table below gives typical cycle rates for both LT
and HT wires in still air. Moving air or immersing the wires in a fluid
like a water/glycerine mixture can increase these by ten times or more.
Q: How much power do Muscle Wires use?
A: The power needed to activate a wire depends on its diameter, length, and
the surrounding conditions. The table below gives typical current levels
for "room temperature" conditions. Power can be increased, but once the
wire has fully shortened, power should be reduced to prevent overheating.
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Table 1. Flexinol Muscle Wire Properties
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Wire Linear Typical Deform. Recovery Typical
Wire Diameter Resist. Current Weight* Weight* Rate**
Name (microns) (ohm/m) (mA) (grams) (grams) (LT/HT)
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Flexinol 037 37 860 30 4 20 52/68
Flexinol 050 50 510 50 8 35 46/67
Flexinol 100 100 150 180 28 150 33/50
Flexinol 150 150 50 400 62 330 20/30
Flexinol 250 250 20 1,000 172 930 9/13
-----------------------------------------------------------------
* Multiply by 0.0098 to get force in Newtons
** Cycles per minute, in still air, at 20 Centigrade
LT = low temp 70 degrees C, HT high temp 90 degrees C
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Q: How long do Muscle Wires last?
A: When used in the three to five percent range under proper conditions
Muscle Wires can run for millions of cycles. Often, other parts of a device
will fail or need adjusting long before the Muscle Wire does.
Q: What are the advantages of Muscle Wires?
A: Compared to motors or solenoids, Muscle Wires have many advantages:
small size, light weight, low power, a very high strength-to-weight ratio,
precise control, AC or DC activation, low magnetism, long life, and direct
linear action.
These features let you create whole categories of amazing new devices that
would be difficult or impossible with anything other than Muscle Wires.
Q: What are the keys to using Muscle Wires?
A: For longest lifetimes and best performance from your Muscle Wire
devices, follow these key points:
* Have good electrical & mechanical connections.
* Protect the wire from overheating.
* Protect the wire from overstraining.
Each of these can be accomplished in many different ways. These topics and
more are covered in detail our new 128 page "Muscle Wires Project Book".
For more on this book and all our other products, see our Muscle Wires
Products flyer. Please request it if you have not received it already, and
contact us with any further questions you may have. Thanks again!
/\ /\ /\
//\\//\\//\\ Mondo-tronics, Inc. Phone 415-455-9330
///// // // ///// 524 San Anselmo Ave #107-20 Fax 415-455-9333
\\//\\//\\// San Anselmo, CA 94960 email EraseMEinfospam_OUT
TakeThisOuTmondo.com
\/ \/ \/ USA Order Line 800-374-5764
======================================================================
Legal. (C)1994 Mondo-tronics, Inc. Muscle Wires is a registered
trademark of Mondo-tronics, Inc. so please use it with the
M and the W capitalized. Eat your vegetables. :(*)
E-FAQ V10.1
9411.01
'Nitinol wire'
1995\05\06@042759
by
William Chops Westfield
I am looking for more sources for nitinol wire (the
wire that contracts when you put current through it). Currently my
source is Mondotronics. Does anyone out there know of any other
sources. Mondotronics is pretty expensive.
Dynalloy Inc
18662 MacArthur Blvd, Suite #103
Irvine CA 92715.
714-476-1206
Prices start at $10/meter, and go down to $7.50/meter for 11 meters or more,
$5.50 for 100 meters or more, and $4/meter for 1000 meters or more.
This information is several years old.
BillW
'Microwire/spi'
1995\07\28@022742
by
Daniel Aylen
Does anyone know where I can get infomation on microwire( National)
or spi/qspi ( Motorola )
Thanks
'70VAC HOT WIRES'
1995\08\15@125128
by
Kenny Baby
WELL YOU SHOULD HAVE A GOOD CASE TO DEFEND IF ANYTHING GOES WRONG,
DID THE BURNS COME FROM THE 70VAC OR THE HOT WIRES. OVER TO THEM TO
PROVE...!
.
.
.
.
.
.
I've seen things you people wouldn't believe.
Attack ships on fire off the sholder of Orion.
I watched C-beams glitter in the darkness at Tan Hauser Gate.
All those moments will be lost in time,
like tears in rain.
Time to die.
Remember now, watch out for the Fairies......!
'Nitinol wires'
1995\08\16@024014
by
Mark G. Forbes
I think that 50VDC will be reasonably safe so long as it's
indoors, in a dry area, and the voltage is not referenced to
earth ground. Put whatever protection you can around the area
to reduce the chance of people grabbing things.
That said, I think there's a significant chance of injury
due to *thermal* burns. That Nitinol wire gets pretty hot,
as I recall, and there should be enough power dissipated to
give somebody a nasty burn. You're more likely to have trouble
due to this than from electric shock. Remember McDonald's
and the infamous 'hot coffee' lawsuit!
Why would you want art lovers to touch this thing anyway? Those
wires aren't very rugged, and the first ham-handed six-year-old
that gets close will destroy it in seconds. And probably think
it's funny, too.......
forbesm
spam_OUTpeak.org KC7LZD
Mark G. Forbes
"Never ascribe to malice that which can be blamed on the engineer."
'3 WIRE LED DISPLAY'
1995\11\08@204610
by
Eric Seeley
Does anyone know where I can purchase LT8522 led display referrenced in
AN592? Is there a "better" device? I'm looking for any serial led display
with at least 3 seven seg. displays and built in logic/latches for serial
interface. Thanks, Eric Seeley
1995\11\09@043913
by
Errington A
A range of 3wire displays are made by III-V systems, and stocked by Farnell
in the UK. They include 2 digit and 4 digit 7seg displays in red and
green.
They are all based on the MM5450N display driver chip, which takes 34 serial
data bits in on the 3 wire interface and controls 34 LED segment drivers.
Andy
---------------------------------------------------------------------
Andrew M Errington Tel: +44 1524 593678
Microcomputer Consultant Fax: +44 1524 844011
Lancaster University @spam@a.erringtonKILLspam
lancaster.ac.uk
Lancaster LA1 4YW www.lancs.ac.uk/people/cpaame/cpaame.htm
---------------------------------------------------------------------
>Does anyone know where I can purchase LT8522 led display referrenced in
>AN592? Is there a "better" device? I'm looking for any serial led display
>with at least 3 seven seg. displays and built in logic/latches for serial
>interface. Thanks, Eric Seeley
1995\11\09@082624
by
Warren Crossfield
Eric;
Here's one used the other day...worked without any trouble at all!
MAXIM MAX7219CWG-ND (That's the Digi-Key part# for the SO-24 part)
$8.27 ea.
Serial input 8 digit LED Driver Multiplexed.
cheers.
-Warren
_______________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 3 WIRE LED DISPLAY
From: e_seeley%KILLspamOWENS.RIDGECREST.CA.USKILLspam
prdnet.polaroid.com at INET
Date: 11/8/95 9:45 PM
Does anyone know where I can purchase LT8522 led display referrenced in
AN592? Is there a "better" device? I'm looking for any serial led display
with at least 3 seven seg. displays and built in logic/latches for serial
interface. Thanks, Eric Seeley
1995\11\10@122829
by
Preben Granberg
>Does anyone know where I can purchase LT8522 led display referrenced in
>AN592? Is there a "better" device? I'm looking for any serial led display
>with at least 3 seven seg. displays and built in logic/latches for serial
>interface. Thanks, Eric Seeley
>
How about making a small program for a PIC to the job ?
Preben
Creative Micro
Hinbjerg 38
DK-2690 Karlslunde
Denmark
Tel +45 4615 4655
Fax +45 4215 3977
'Re : 3 wire LED display (well 2 wire)'
1995\11\10@131535
by
Robin Abbott
I suggest that an excellent device for 2 wire I/O expansion is the
M5450. This offers 34 output bits clocked in on a data and
clock line, the outputs only being transferred on the last
clock. It's perfect for up to 4, seven segment displays,
driven on a non-mux basis, good for other apps as well !
Robin
RemoveMErobin.abbottTakeThisOuT
dial.pipex.com
1995\11\10@140006
by
reginald neale
The Allegro (formerly Sprague) UCN5812 is a relatively inexpensive
display driver that can be used with a three-wire serial input.
Allegro MicroSystems Inc.
115 Northeast Cutoff, Box 15036
Worcester MA 01615
508-853-5000 voice
508-853-7861 fax
....Reg Neale.............standard disclaimer applies.......
"Ignorance is a renewable resource." P. J. O'Rourke......
'1 wire half duplex communication between two PIC 1'
1996\06\30@032451
by
NEIL GANDLER
|
I have an application where I want to send half duplex serial data between
two PIC 16c74 microcontrollers through a one wire link (+ gnd of course))
The thoroughput required is 32 bits of data (the value of 4 registers)
needed to be sent 30 times per second, for LCD and misc. updating.
I want to leave the PICs out of the communication
system to avoid complexity with interrupts dependent on state changes.
I have looked at Motorola's MC145026-29 series of remote control serial
encoder/decoder IC's. They basically form a data packet with address and
data bits, have packet comparison/verification circuitry and are perfect for
one wire link systems.
They are very simple and are easy to interface. The only problem is that they
only offer a maximum of 5 bits of data to send per packet, where it would be
much easier if I could send 8 bits per packet, since I am sending values of
8-bit registers through an 8-bit serial shift register preceding the encoder.
I was wondering if anyone knows of a similar series of ICs that would be a
better alternative. Hotlek offers similar IC's with 8 bits of data but
are too slow with all of the encoding overhead and frequency limitations.
I want to keep this simple. I don't want to start playing
with UARTS and USARTS, even though a USART is built into the PIC (its seems
quite complex for a beginner like me) and a one line link (asynchronous)
is a must. Perhaps someone could suggest a simpler method. Thanks.
Neil Gandler
1996\06\30@040928
by
Lee Jones
|
Hi Neil,
> I have an application where I want to send half duplex serial data between
> two PIC 16c74 microcontrollers through a one wire link (+ gnd of course))
> The thoroughput required is 32 bits of data (the value of 4 registers)
> needed to be sent 30 times per second
Since you want to send 4 octets (32 bits) 30 times per second, anything
at or above 1200 baud would suffice. If you're going to put any sort of
checksum on each "packet", you might want to use 2400 baud. Generally,
the slower the link, the less noise susceptibility.
Depending on the distance between the PICs, you might be able to get
away with TTL signal levels between the devices. I'd use that for a
link up to several feet. Beyond that distance, a differential signal
such as RS-422, RS-423, or RS-485 would work well. Driver chips are
easier than RS-232 since they use lower, single ended voltage swings.
And you have control both the physical interface on both ends.
> I want to keep this simple. I don't want to start playing with
> UARTS and USARTS, even though a USART is built into the PIC (its
> seems quite complex for a beginner like me) and a one line link
> (asynchronous) is a must. Perhaps someone could suggest a simpler
> method.
Bite the bullet and learn about UARTs. There's a reason that UART
stands for Universal Asynchronous Receiver Transmitter. It does the
octet parallel to time dependant bit serial data conversion that you
say you want for this project. If you find a chip by another name
that does the same function, you're deluding yourself if you think
you're not working with a UART/USART.
You can still get external UARTs that are programmed totally with
jumpers (i.e. no software setup). The interface is 8 bit parallel
with a couple more lines for handshaking. If you have enough pins
free on the PICs you're using, one end can write octets and the
other end can read octets. Nothing simpler.
Lee
-------------------------------------------------------------------
Jones Computer Communications spamBeGoneleespamBeGone
frumble.claremont.edu
509 Black Hills Dr, Claremont, CA 91711 voice: 909-621-9008
-------------------------------------------------------------------
1996\06\30@141604
by
james
NEIL GANDLER wrote:
> I have an application where I want to send half duplex serial data between
> two PIC 16c74 microcontrollers through a one wire link (+ gnd of course))
> I want to keep this simple. I don't want to start playing
> with UARTS and USARTS, even though a USART is built into the PIC (its seems
> quite complex for a beginner like me)
> Neil Gandler
Neil, if the USART is available (you're not already using it for
something else), it is really easy to use. It is at least as easy as
adding more ICs and is free (you've already bought the PIC).
--
James Musselman
President
Radix/Cobalt Instruments, Inc.
PO Box 897
Clovis, CA 93612 USA
tel 209-297-9000 fax 209-297-9400
1996\06\30@172221
by
Neil Gandler
On Sun, 30 Jun 1996, James Musselman wrote:
> NEIL GANDLER wrote:
> > I have an application where I want to send half duplex serial data between
> > two PIC 16c74 microcontrollers through a one wire link (+ gnd of course))
> > I want to keep this simple. I don't want to start playing
> > with UARTS and USARTS, even though a USART is built into the PIC (its seems
> > quite complex for a beginner like me)
> > Neil Gandler
>
> Neil, if the USART is available (you're not already using it for
> something else), it is really easy to use. It is at least as easy as
> adding more ICs and is free (you've already bought the PIC).
> --
Yes, I just realized that last night. The diffult sections were the SSP,
the SCI looks pretty straightforward, thanks. I wish I looked at it
sooner.
Neil
'2-Wire, Bi-Directional Protocol'
1996\07\03@111609
by
rdmiller
On Wed, 3 Jul 1996, Byron A Jeff wrote:
[...]
> Query: Does anyone have a reliable bi-directional handshaking protocol that
> can be implemented using 2 I/O pins? My first pass at it can create deadlock
> if both try to send at the same time...
[...]
Have you considered the Multi-Master IIC protocol?
Collision detection is done by checking whether either of the lines is
still being held low every time you let them go high. (IIC is wire-OR'd.)
The first controller which sees the collision immediately switches into
RECEIVE mode while the other continues without noticing. Make sure you
give the lines enough time to "settle" before checking them, of course.
Rick Miller
1996\07\03@123410
by
Byron A Jeff
|
>
> On Wed, 3 Jul 1996, Byron A Jeff wrote:
> [...]
> > Query: Does anyone have a reliable bi-directional handshaking protocol that
> > can be implemented using 2 I/O pins? My first pass at it can create deadlock
> > if both try to send at the same time...
> [...]
>
> Have you considered the Multi-Master IIC protocol?
Nope.
>
> Collision detection is done by checking whether either of the lines is
> still being held low every time you let them go high. (IIC is wire-OR'd.)
> The first controller which sees the collision immediately switches into
> RECEIVE mode while the other continues without noticing. Make sure you
> give the lines enough time to "settle" before checking them, of course.
Meaning the protocol is syncronous right? Someone out there is driving
a clock that the masters use to syncronously transmit.
I was hoping for something simpler because:
1) It's point to point with only two stations
2) I need async communication between the two.
3) The data is being passed on another channel.
Some ASCII art of my proposed project:
---------- ----------
| | | |
| |---> A to B handshake --->| |
| | | |
| |<--- B to A handshake <---| |
| | | |
RS-232 <--->| PIC A |<- Bidirection data BUS ->| PIC B |<---> MIDI IN/OUT
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
---------- ----------
Typical of handshaked parallel transfers between devices like printer ports
and whatnot.
So the transmit protocol for each is:
1) Check other handshake line and make sure its inactive.
2) Place your data and Assert your handshake line.
3) Wait for the other to assert it's handshake.
4) Remove data and de-assert your handshake.
The problem is a deadlock occurs if both are in sync and both do (1) and (2)
at the same time. Talk about blown buffers! Even if the actual transfer
is preceeded with a null handshake both will proceed.
I'll probably implement a simple backoff. Since PIC A is handling a higher
speed than PIC B I'll give it a shorter backoff delay if it finds that
PIC B has requested at the same time as PIC A.
Anyway it's an interesting problem.
BAJ
1996\07\03@143635
by
Kalle Pihlajasaari
|
Hi,
> Typical of handshaked parallel transfers between devices like printer ports
> and whatnot.
>
> So the transmit protocol for each is:
>
> 1) Check other handshake line and make sure its inactive.
> 2) Place your data and Assert your handshake line.
> 3) Wait for the other to assert it's handshake.
> 4) Remove data and de-assert your handshake.
Reminicent of EI, EO two wire interrupt controller daisychaining.
Have a look at a Zilog data book and use the method described
somewhere in there. The devices have an effective master and slave
flavour but in your case it won't matter as the 'bus' will be
released regularly. Basicly the 'slave' chip asks for permission
and receives it if the master is available at other times the
master waits for the slave to ACK after a request. It is easier
to leave the connection tilted in one direction when idle if there
is bandwidth as there cannot be the deadlock you mention.
> The problem is a deadlock occurs if both are in sync and both do (1) and (2)
> at the same time. Talk about blown buffers! Even if the actual transfer
> is preceeded with a null handshake both will proceed.
Place a 1kOhm resistor in series and the blown buffer will be avoided.
Cheers
--
Kalle Pihlajasaari TakeThisOuTkalleEraseME
spam_OUTdata.co.za
Interface Products Box 15775, Doornfontein, 2028, South Africa
+27 (11) 402-7750 Fax: +27 (11) 402-7751
1996\07\03@152527
by
Norm Cramer
|
At 12:18 PM 7/3/96 -0400, you wrote:
>>
>> On Wed, 3 Jul 1996, Byron A Jeff wrote:
>> [...]
>> > Query: Does anyone have a reliable bi-directional handshaking protocol that
>> > can be implemented using 2 I/O pins? My first pass at it can create
deadlock
{Quote hidden}>> > if both try to send at the same time...
>> [...]
>>
>> Have you considered the Multi-Master IIC protocol?
>
>Nope.
>
>>
>> Collision detection is done by checking whether either of the lines is
>> still being held low every time you let them go high. (IIC is wire-OR'd.)
>> The first controller which sees the collision immediately switches into
>> RECEIVE mode while the other continues without noticing. Make sure you
>> give the lines enough time to "settle" before checking them, of course.
>
>Meaning the protocol is syncronous right? Someone out there is driving
>a clock that the masters use to syncronously transmit.
No, each master generates his own clock. The two lines are SCL (clock) and
SDA (data). The devices connect to the bus via "open collector" outputs and
whoever lets the data line go high while the clock line is high first loses
the contention. BTW, a device can hold the clock low to hold off a transfer
if it needs the time. The protocol is pretty simple. Philips has an I2C
device databook that explains it well. I think the Microchip App note does
ok also but the Philips book is better. Check out the Microchip App note at
their web site. They even have example code to play with (haven't tried it
yet).
'implementing SPI, QSPI, or Microwire interfaces'
1996\10\02@222058
by
Gerry Smith
Hello,
I need to implement a SPI, QSPI or Microwire interface with a pic16cxx
and was wondering if anyone had any information/source code on it?
Thanks for the help.
1996\10\03@032606
by
Herve Cousin
At 22:19 02.10.96 -0400, you wrote:
>Hello,
>I need to implement a SPI, QSPI or Microwire interface with a pic16cxx
>and was wondering if anyone had any information/source code on it?
>Thanks for the help.
>
>
Hi Gerry,
Have a look at the application notes-page of Microchip, especially under
"Serial EEPROMS TUTORIALS AND APPLICATION NOTES" with SPI and IIC (with
source code):
http://www.microchip2.com/appnotes/appnotes.htm
Regards,
Herve
Herve R. Cousin - Inorganic Analytical Chemistry,
Federal Institute of Technology (ETH-Z)
CH-8092 Zurich, Switzerland
Tel.: + 41-1-632-4472, Fax: + 41-1-632-1090,
RemoveMEcousin
TakeThisOuTinorg.chem.ethz.ch, http://www.analytica.ethz.ch/cousin.html
1996\10\03@195604
by
Gael Waiche
|
Hi Gerry. I've got those routines implementing the SPI bus.
They come from the Microchip server.
I hope they will be of some use.
Regards
Gael
; Filename: ADVSPI.ASM
; **********************************************
; * Advanced Seminar Sample File *
; * Revision: 1.0 *
; * Date Feb 6, 1996 *
; **********************************************
;
****************************************************************************
; * This program shows examples of SPI transmission and reception
*
;
****************************************************************************
LIST P=16C74,F=INHX8M,R=DEC ; Set processor to 16C74
#INCLUDE C:/MPLAB/P16C74.INC ; Include processor INC file
__CONFIG _XT_OSC&_WDT_OFF&_CP_OFF ; Set up config bits
__IDLOCS 5678 ; Set up ID locations
ERRORLEVEL 1,-302 ; Turn OFF message ID 302
COUNT EQU 20h ; Location of count variable to count
bits
SPIDATAL EQU 21h ; Location of SPI low byte data
SPIDATAH EQU 22h ; Location of SPI high byte data
#define DOUT PORTA,0 ; SPI port DOUT signal
#define CS PORTA,1 ; SPI port CS signal
#define SCLK PORTA,2 ; SPI port SCLK signal
#define DIN PORTA,3 ; SPI port DIN signal
ORG 0
clrf PORTA ; Clear output latch register
bsf STATUS,RP0 ; Switch to bank 1
movlw b'11111000' ; Place PORTA direction data into W
movwf TRISB ; Set RA0-2 outputs, RA3 input
movlw 7 ; Place 7 into W
movwf ADCON1 ; Make RAX digital inputs
bcf STATUS,RP0 ; Switch to bank 0
mainloop
movlw b'01010101' ; Place alternating 1 and 0 into W
movwf SPIDATAL ; init SPI data low register
movlw b'00001111' ; Place 00001111 into W
movwf SPIDATAH ; init SPI data high register
call spidataio ; Send/receive SPI data
goto mainloop ; Jump back and do it again!
;**************************************************
;* 16 bit SPI serial I/O xmit and receive routine *
;* Data to Transmit: ADRESL, ADRESH *
;* Data to Receive: ADRESL, ADRESH *
;* Time = (13 * 16) + 7 = 215 cycles *
;**************************************************
spidataio
movlw .16 ; Place bit count value into W
movwf COUNT ; W -> COUNT for counting bits
bcf CS ; Select the SPI device
loopspidata
bcf STATUS,C ; Assume we are receiving a ZERO from SPI
device
btfsc DIN ; Skip if we are receiving a ZERO from
SPI device
bsf STATUS,C ; Receive a ONE from the DIN line
rlf SPIDATAL,F ; Rotate received bit into Low digit
rlf SPIDATAH,F ; Rotate high digit, place xmiit bit into
carry
bcf DOUT ; Assume we are transmitting a ZERO to
SPI device
btfsc STATUS,C ; Skip if we are senDOUTg a ZERO to SPI
device
bsf DOUT ; Transmit a ONE onto the DOUT line
bsf SCLK ; Clock in the DOUT output
bcf SCLK ; Lets get ready to clock the next digit!
decfsz COUNT,F ; Skip if we have XMIT/RCV all 16 bits
goto loopspidata ; Not done yet so loop back for next bit
bsf CS ; De-select the SPI device
return ; DONE receiving/xmiting - GO HOME!
END
'Fire alarms and 2 wires methode'
1996\10\07@105101
by
vador Eduardo Tropea (SET)
Hi everybody:
I'm serching information about the following topics:
1) What norms must comply a fire alarm in USA and Europe?
2) What's the protocol used for two wires smoke & fire detectors? These
detectors use 2 wires for power supply & comunications, all connecteds in a
ring.
I'm implementing an anti-fire & anti-asalt alarm with two PICs (16C62A &
16C84) but I want to make it better and expandable.
Any pointer would be appreciated.
bye SET.
********************************************************************************
Salvador Eduardo Tropea (SET) - salvadorEraseME
.....inti.edu.ar
Work: INTI (National Institute of Industrial Technology) Sector: ICE
(Electronic Control & Instrumentation)
Post (Home): Curapaligue 2124 - Caseros (1678)- Buenos Aires - Argentina
1996\10\07@121530
by
Ian Stirling
|
>
> Hi everybody:
>
> I'm serching information about the following topics:
>
> 1) What norms must comply a fire alarm in USA and Europe?
> 2) What's the protocol used for two wires smoke & fire detectors? These
> detectors use 2 wires for power supply & comunications, all connecteds in a
> ring.
>
> I'm implementing an anti-fire & anti-asalt alarm with two PICs (16C62A &
> 16C84) but I want to make it better and expandable.
> Any pointer would be appreciated.
>
Well, for the european market, you'll need to get it CE marked, and comply
with any local regulations. CE marking covers a lot of feilds, from
EMC emmission/acceptance, to electrical safety, .....
It can't be sold in europe, if not CE marked, look for info on the
web on altavista, using CE NEAR precompliance
> bye SET.
>
>
*******************************************************************************
*
> Salvador Eduardo Tropea (SET) - EraseMEsalvador
inti.edu.ar
> Work: INTI (National Institute of Industrial Technology) Sector: ICE
> (Electronic Control & Instrumentation)
> Post (Home): Curapaligue 2124 - Caseros (1678)- Buenos Aires - Argentina
>
--
Ian Stirling. | http://web.students.stir.ac.uk/~is06
AKA Caeser, Bolonewbie. | Pretty sad at the moment, should get
| better tho.
1996\10\07@121541
by
brooke
Salvador Eduardo Tropea (SET) wrote:
>
> Hi everybody:
>
> I'm serching information about the following topics:
>
> 1) What norms must comply a fire alarm in USA and Europe?
> 2) What's the protocol used for two wires smoke & fire detectors?....
Salvador:
It is my understanding that conventional (non digital) fire alarm
systems
use two wires that run from the controller and are terminated at the far
end with a resistor. The current is used as a check to see if the wires
have opened. If there is an open circuit, the alarm sounds a trouble
alarm.
The fire sensors are paclaced across these two wires and if a sensor
detects
a fire it shorts the wires. You can see that if a fire broke out along
the
wires it might melt the insulation and short the wires also giving a
fire
alarm. Some fire sensore require 12 VDC power so another 2 wires are
used
to provide the power for the sensors that require power.
Hopes this helps,
Brooke Clarke
1996\10\07@132027
by
John Payson
|
> It is my understanding that conventional (non digital) fire alarm
> systems
> use two wires that run from the controller and are terminated at the far
> end with a resistor. The current is used as a check to see if the wires
> have opened. If there is an open circuit, the alarm sounds a trouble
> alarm.
> The fire sensors are paclaced across these two wires and if a sensor
> detects
> a fire it shorts the wires. You can see that if a fire broke out along
> the
> wires it might melt the insulation and short the wires also giving a
> fire
> alarm. Some fire sensore require 12 VDC power so another 2 wires are
> used
> to provide the power for the sensors that require power.
Hmm... I don't know about fire alarms, but I've seen other applications
in which devices sat on two wires, drawing power (not outrageous current)
and when one needed to send a signal, it would increase its current
consumption dramatically but not totally short out its wires. A simple
example of such a scheme would be a bunch of PICs running off 7805's,
each with 220-ohm resistors from some port pins to Vdd, with all of these
devices running off a weak 12-volt supply (say, 22 ohms series resistance)
with a strong 9v supply underneath it. If no PICs turn on their grounding
resistors (and they don't otherwise use too much current) the supply should
sit a little under 12v. If the supply goes all the way up to 12 or down to
9v, however, there's a problem.
1996\10\08@084324
by
vador Eduardo Tropea (SET)
|
This mail is related to the fire alarm question:
Some body said
>> It is my understanding that conventional (non digital) fire alarm
>> systems
>> use two wires that run from the controller and are terminated at the far
>> end with a resistor. The current is used as a check to see if the wires
>> have opened. If there is an open circuit, the alarm sounds a trouble
>> alarm.
>> The fire sensors are paclaced across these two wires and if a sensor
>> detects
>> a fire it shorts the wires. You can see that if a fire broke out along
>> the
>> wires it might melt the insulation and short the wires also giving a
>> fire
>> alarm. Some fire sensore require 12 VDC power so another 2 wires are
>> used
>> to provide the power for the sensors that require power.
and another replayed
{Quote hidden}>Hmm... I don't know about fire alarms, but I've seen other applications
>in which devices sat on two wires, drawing power (not outrageous current)
>and when one needed to send a signal, it would increase its current
>consumption dramatically but not totally short out its wires. A simple
>example of such a scheme would be a bunch of PICs running off 7805's,
>each with 220-ohm resistors from some port pins to Vdd, with all of these
>devices running off a weak 12-volt supply (say, 22 ohms series resistance)
>with a strong 9v supply underneath it. If no PICs turn on their grounding
>resistors (and they don't otherwise use too much current) the supply should
>sit a little under 12v. If the supply goes all the way up to 12 or down to
>9v, however, there's a problem.
Thank you guys, but I'm searching for a protocol, for example NOTIFIER can put
99 fire-detectors in a ring of 2 wires across a building and notify which of
the 99 detectors is active.
SET.
********************************************************************************
Salvador Eduardo Tropea (SET) - RemoveMEsalvadorEraseME
EraseMEinti.edu.ar
Work: INTI (National Institute of Industrial Technology) Sector: ICE
(Electronic Control & Instrumentation)
Post (Home): Curapaligue 2124 - Caseros (1678)- Buenos Aires - Argentina
1996\10\08@133058
by
Brooke
Salvador Eduardo Tropea (SET) wrote:
>
> This mail is related to the fire alarm question:
>
> Brooke said
> >> It is my understanding that conventional (non digital) fire alarm
> >> systems
> >> use two wires that run from the controller and are terminated at the far
> >> end with a resistor......
> and another replayed
>
> >Hmm... I don't know about fire alarms, but I've seen other applications
> >in which devices sat on two wires, ..........
>
> Thank you guys, but I'm searching for a protocol, for example NOTIFIER can put
> 99 fire-detectors in a ring of 2 wires across a building and notify which of
> the 99 detectors is active.
Salvador:
In that case you might want to check out the Dallas one wire protocol.
They have
chips with a large serial number and TTL I/O on a one wire buss.
Have Fun,
Brooke Clarke
'Two wire I2C SLAVE code...'
1996\12\03@135324
by
mike
Hi,
I have looked around and found lots of code to implement
I2C master PICs, but I haven't found any code for
bit banging I2C slave.
Is there an ANxxx covering this?
Has anyone got some code they could e-mail me, or pointer
to some code?
Thanks for your help (again),
Regards,
Mike Watson
1996\12\03@184429
by
Steve Hardy
|
> From: Mayes uk <RemoveMEmikespam_OUT
KILLspamD-M-G.DEMON.CO.UK>
>
> Hi,
>
> I have looked around and found lots of code to implement
> I2C master PICs, but I haven't found any code for
> bit banging I2C slave.
>
> Is there an ANxxx covering this?
> Has anyone got some code they could e-mail me, or pointer
> to some code?
As I mentioned in a previous post, the timing requirements for the I2C
slave even at 100KHz are too severe for a software implementation.
This is why the 16CXX series implement a slave I2C in hardware, but
leave the master implementation to software.
The reason for this disparity is that the master drives the clock line,
whereas the slave has to follow the clock and respond if necessary
within quite tight timing constraints.
This problem may be mitigated somewhat if you are writing both master
and slave. In this case, the master can be aware that the slave is
slow and thus relax its clock rate to, say, 10KHz. Strictly speaking,
it is no longer an I2C slave, but may well be good enough for the
application.
Regards,
SJH
Canberra, Australia
1996\12\03@192425
by
ang (Chee Foon Tiang)
|
On the contrary, a bit-banged I2C slave is possible to be
implemented.
What you need is a start condition detection circuit which
can be be implemented using cheap 74HCTxx logics.
If interested, please e-mail me.
And sorry, as I do not have the PIC codes.
I have a big-banged 100kHz slave on a 4-bit Hitachi's
microcontroller.
Regards,
Peter Tiang
RemoveMEtiangcfoonTakeThisOuT
spamhitachi.com.my
{Quote hidden}>> From: Mayes uk <
EraseMEmikespam
spamBeGoneD-M-G.DEMON.CO.UK>
>>
>> Hi,
>>
>> I have looked around and found lots of code to implement
>> I2C master PICs, but I haven't found any code for
>> bit banging I2C slave.
>>
> Is there an ANxxx covering this?
> Has anyone got some code they could e-mail me, or pointer
> to some code?
>
>Is I mentioned in a previous post, the timing requirements
for
{Quote hidden}>the I2C
>slave even at 100KHz are too severe for a software
>implementation.
>This is why the 16CXX series implement a slave I2C in
>hardware, but
>leave the master implementation to software.
>The reason for this disparity is that the master drives the
>clock line,
>whereas the slave has to follow the clock and respond if
>necessary
>within quite tight timing constraints.
>This problem may be mitigated somewhat if you are writing
>both master
>and slave. In this case, the master can be aware that the
>slave is
>slow and thus relax its clock rate to, say, 10KHz. Strictly
>speaking,
>it is no longer an I2C slave, but may well be good enough for
>the
>application.
>Regards,
>SJH
>Canberra, Australia
'Philips 3-wire (Data, Strobe and Acknowledge) prot'
1996\12\13@215918
by
ang (Chee Foon Tiang)
Anybody got any pointers to the Philips 3-wire DSA protocol
used mainly in their CD controller... as all their WWW sites
have rather old links and their site search engine always
returns error (or something to the same effect).
Thanks,
Peter Tiang
1996\12\14@004041
by
Todd Peterson
|
At 09:16 AM 12/14/96 +0800, you wrote:
>Anybody got any pointers to the Philips 3-wire DSA protocol
>used mainly in their CD controller... as all their WWW sites
>have rather old links and their site search engine always
>returns error (or something to the same effect).
Sorry, I wish I did have something about this Philips protocol to tell you.
Hopefully someone more informed about it will respond.
But your question brings up something that really irks me: I am looking at
doing a project using Philips I2C Bus and, through a series of phone calls,
happened to end up talking with the Philips in-house patent attorney about
it. He told me some news that disturbed me: he said, and I paraphrase
fairly close to the original - ' I won't say thay Microchip is breaking the
law using I2C YET, but they do not have a valid license.' He then allowed
me to 'guess' (he wouldn't tell me outright) who all that manufactures of
microcontrollers that does have a license - virtually every one I could
think of (about 15-20). he said he couldn't tell me much more about it yet,
but that 'Microchip will try to tell me differently'. I, of course,
contacted MCHIP and they told me they DID have a license. It worries me,
though, as the Philips Attorney told me he would certainly get something in
writing from Microchip stating they will back their claim to the I2C license
before marketing any product I designed. Microchip, was to fax me something
but it didn't arrive (about a month ago). Anybody know what's going on
here? No, I'm not imagining things, even though it is late. I do have
names of people I spoke with and will gladly provide them privatly.
Anyone know for sure why I was told by Philips that Microchip was on their
bad list?
Thanks,
Todd Peterson
E-LAB Digital Engineering, Inc.
(712) 944-5344
http://www.netins.net/showcase/elab
Hey, check out our new PC Interface IC, the EDE300!
'Microchip's I2C license (was: "Re: Philips 3-wire '
1996\12\14@060204
by
fastfwd
|
Todd Peterson <RemoveMEPICLISTKILLspam
MITVMA.MIT.EDU> wrote:
> I am looking at doing a project using Philips I2C Bus and, through
> a series of phone calls, happened to end up talking with the
> Philips in-house patent attorney about it. He told me some news
> that disturbed me: he said, and I paraphrase fairly close to the
> original - ' I won't say thay Microchip is breaking the law using
> I2C YET, but they do not have a valid license.' .... I, of course,
> contacted MCHIP and they told me they DID have a license.
> ....
> Anyone know for sure why I was told by Philips that Microchip was on
> their bad list?
Todd:
No, don't get your hopes up... I don't know what's going on, either.
Here's everything I DO know about Microchip, Philips, and the I2C
license. I've divided it into "good" and "bad" categories, but
beyond that, it's completely disoganized... I'm too tired to try to
put these points into any meaningful order:
BAD:
1. When Microchip first started making I2C EEPROMs, the term
"I2C" was conspicuously absent from all of their documentation,
as was any acknowledgement that the protocol was owned by
Philips.
2. I don't know how the I2C licenses are written; if they
differentiate between "dumb" devices like EEPROMs and "smart"
devices like microcontrollers, Microchip may have stepped on
their toes by incorporating I2C (even though it's only Slave
Mode) into the PICs.
3. Microchip's microcontrollers don't implement Master Mode in
hardware, but Microchip advertises them as containing a
Synchronous Serial Port "with I2C". Maybe Philips doesn't like
that.
4. Microchip has traditionally taken a too-casual approach to
trademarks; the "Pro Master" programmer had to be renamed "Pro
Mate" when it was discovered that the name was already taken,
and even the word "PIC" can't be used in any of Microchip's
development tools, since it's trademarked by a European company.
Maybe they used the I2C trademark inappropriately, too... I
don't know.
GOOD:
1. In general, Philips seems willing to license the I2C
protocol to just about ANYONE... As you mentioned, there are AT
LEAST 15-20 licensees.
2. Microchip Technology is a member of the ACCESS.bus Industry
Group, and ACCESS.bus uses the I2C protocol. By supporting
AbIG, Microchip is supporting Philips.
3. All the current literature acknowledges that I2C is a
Philips trademark, and the Microchip databooks even reference
the Philips "I2C and how to use it" spec.
4. Microchip is now #2 worldwide in serial-EEPROM sales
(behind -- WAY behind, by the way -- SGS-Thomson).
Ok... That's it. Sorry I didn't have any specific information for
you.
-Andy
=== Andrew Warren - fastfwdSTOPspam
spam_OUTix.netcom.com ===
=== Fast Forward Engineering - Vista, California ===
=== ===
=== Custodian of the PICLIST Fund -- For more info, see: ===
=== http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/2499/fund.html ===
'onewire - ERA-82-004'
1997\01\03@132310
by
Brian Lane
|
I'm trying to find the Schottky diodes used in the 12v real all
circuit used to interface serial ports to Dallas one wire devices
(Dallas app note 74). Its an ERA-82-004, and I can't find it, or a
cross refrence anywhere.
On a PIC related note: I've been designing a PIC based interface to
the DS1820 temperature sensors for the last couple of weeks in my
spare time. It has a 2k eeprom for serial number storage, max232 for
rs232 interface, and uses a LP2950 to regulate the power from the
RS-232's DTR and RTS lines. I was planning one producing these and
selling them for about $60, including 2 sensors. The purpose was to
take the load off the computer (and so that it would work under a
multitasking enviornment like Linux or Win95).
But I forgot something. I had read app note 74 a long time ago, and
I knew that you could use the serial port to directly talk to the
devices, but I forgot about it. No I know that my device really isn't
needed, and that it can all be done in software on the host, with 4
diodes and a resistor.
Needless to say - when you charge ahead on a project don't forget to
do your research first. At least I hadn't gone so far as to get boards
produced yet <G>.
Brian
---
Nexus Computing spamBeGonenexusSTOPspam
EraseMEeskimo.com http://www.eskimo.com/~nexus
The Islet BBS FidoNet by PPP dialup (206)927-9219
Brian Lane embedded systems programmer KC7TYU
'wirewrap tools'
1997\01\12@123053
by
VENKATARAMANI B.(ECE)
Our students are interested in doing Microcontroller based projects.
Since the time available for the project is limited, a simple batch
of students may not be able to end up with a finished, well proven
product. Hence we would like a no. of batches to carry out the work
to achieve them . For this purpose, wirewraping the circuit, I feel
would be ideal.
Towards this end, we would like to procure wirewrap tools (both
machine operated and manually operated) for wrapping as well as
unwrapping,
wires for wraping and so on. Can you please send me the addresses of
the companys (including their Fax no.s) who are manufacturing these
tools. Please send this information personally to me.
Thanking You,
With regards,
Dr.B.Venkataramani,
Asst. Professor,
E.C.E. Dept.,
Regional Engg. College,
Tiruchirappalli-620 015
INDIA
----------------------------------
email:KILLspambvenkispamBeGone
rect.ernet.in
----------------------------------
'wirewrap tools -Reply'
1997\01\12@200954
by
Chee Foon Tiang
|
Wirewrapping is expensive, not the tools itself
but the cost of the IC sockets (with wire-wrap
turned-pins) is going to kill you.
However, it is very reliable and I trust it more
than soldering which gets exponentially trickier as
your pin count grows.
If you insist, check out RS International or Farnell
both from the UK but has world-wide operations.
I think UK PICers can provide you with the contact
number.
{Quote hidden}>Our students are interested in doing Microcontroller
>based projects.
>Since the time available for the project is limited, a
>simple batch
>of students may not be able to end up with a finished,
>well proven
>product. Hence we would like a no. of batches to carry
>out the work
>to achieve them . For this purpose, wirewraping the
>circuit, I feel
>would be ideal.
> Towards this end, we would like to procure
>wirewrap tools (both
>machine operated and manually operated) for wrapping
>as well as
>unwrapping,
>wires for wraping and so on. Can you please send me
>the addresses of
>the companys (including their Fax no.s) who are
>manufacturing these
>tools. Please send this information personally to me.
>Thanking You,
>With regards,
>Dr.B.Venkataramani,
>Asst. Professor,
>E.C.E. Dept.,
>Regional Engg. College,
>Tiruchirappalli-620 015
>INDIA
>----------------------------------
>email:
EraseMEbvenki
EraseMErect.ernet.in
>----------------------------------
1997\01\12@201623
by
Gerry Smith
Breadboarding also works. Soldering in my opinion is faster if you have
a pcb board or well designed circuit. Wirewrapping is next to impossible
to fix if you have several connections on the same pin...
'WIRELESS LINK FOR 2 PICS'
1997\02\10@025043
by
D. and S. Ebsen
I need to link(RF or microwave) two 16c84's for one-way serial coms.
Range only needs to be ~ 5 ft, baud => 1200. I would prefer a single
chip if possible with no external inductor, preset frequency is fine.
Could someone point me in the right dirrection? Thanks, Dave Ebsen.
1997\02\10@032029
by
Gvran Mvrk
D. and S. Ebsen wrote:
>
> I need to link(RF or microwave) two 16c84's for one-way serial coms.
> Range only needs to be ~ 5 ft, baud => 1200. I would prefer a single
> chip if possible with no external inductor, preset frequency is fine.
> Could someone point me in the right dirrection? Thanks, Dave Ebsen.
What about 300 THz? (Infrared). Siemens, Temic, Novalog, Rohm and HP has
transcievers fulfilling your requirements.
Goran Mork
1997\02\10@081537
by
Luigi Rizzo
> > I need to link(RF or microwave) two 16c84's for one-way serial coms.
> > Range only needs to be ~ 5 ft, baud => 1200. I would prefer a single
> > chip if possible with no external inductor, preset frequency is fine.
> > Could someone point me in the right dirrection? Thanks, Dave Ebsen.
> What about 300 THz? (Infrared). Siemens, Temic, Novalog, Rohm and HP has
> transcievers fulfilling your requirements.
have you tried to get them in less than 10K quantities (of course, not
bundled in some high-price product which uses them)
Luigi
-----------------------------+--------------------------------------
Luigi Rizzo | Dip. di Ingegneria dell'Informazione
email: @spam@luigi@spam@
spam_OUTiet.unipi.it | Universita' di Pisa
tel: +39-50-568533 | via Diotisalvi 2, 56126 PISA (Italy)
fax: +39-50-568522 | http://www.iet.unipi.it/~luigi/
_____________________________|______________________________________
1997\02\10@123604
by
Zack Cilliers
Hi there!
Have a look at this site rfsolutions.co.uk/rf_prods/rf_prods.html
I am sure this is what you are looking for.
Zack
spamBeGonezc
KILLspampixie.co.za
There is no justice.
There is just us.
----------
> From: D. and S. Ebsen <.....ebsendsmspam_OUT
INAV.NET>
> To: TakeThisOuTPICLIST.....
TakeThisOuTMITVMA.MIT.EDU
> Subject: WIRELESS LINK FOR 2 PICS
> Date: Monday, February 10, 1997 9:51 AM
>
> I need to link(RF or microwave) two 16c84's for one-way serial coms.
> Range only needs to be ~ 5 ft, baud => 1200. I would prefer a single
> chip if possible with no external inductor, preset frequency is fine.
> Could someone point me in the right dirrection? Thanks, Dave Ebsen.
1997\02\10@145957
by
radyan
D. and S. Ebsen wrote:
>
> I need to link(RF or microwave) two 16c84's for one-way serial coms.
> Range only needs to be ~ 5 ft, baud => 1200. I would prefer a single
> chip if possible with no external inductor, preset frequency is fine.
> Could someone point me in the right dirrection? Thanks, Dave Ebsen.
Hello Dave,
Two years before i develop Remote Control transmitter/receiver
for Car Alarm Security system based on PIC-16C56 (TX) and PIC-16C57 (RX)
for comercial company Spetrotec LTD.
The RF frequency is 300 MHz.
Data : Near 1200 baud transmition
Range : About 30 meters
The software can be installed also on 16x84. If you are interested then
reply to me
personaly to my E-Mail address for further information.
Bye,
Radik Yanai
1997\02\11@030335
by
Gvran Mvrk
|
Luigi Rizzo wrote:
>
> > > I need to link(RF or microwave) two 16c84's for one-way serial coms.
> > > Range only needs to be ~ 5 ft, baud => 1200. I would prefer a single
> > > chip if possible with no external inductor, preset frequency is fine.
> > > Could someone point me in the right dirrection? Thanks, Dave Ebsen.
> > What about 300 THz? (Infrared). Siemens, Temic, Novalog, Rohm and HP has
> > transcievers fulfilling your requirements.
>
> have you tried to get them in less than 10K quantities (of course, not
> bundled in some high-price product which uses them)
>
> Luigi
> -----------------------------+--------------------------------------
> Luigi Rizzo | Dip. di Ingegneria dell'Informazione
> email: TakeThisOuTluigiKILLspam
spamiet.unipi.it | Universita' di Pisa
> tel: +39-50-568533 | via Diotisalvi 2, 56126 PISA (Italy)
> fax: +39-50-568522 | http://www.iet.unipi.it/~luigi/
> _____________________________|______________________________________
Farnell Components (http://www.farnellcomponents.com) lists the HP
HDSL-1000 at approx.7USD in single quantities. The Temic and Siemens
parts TFDS4000 and IRM3105 are better, and I'm sure you could find
distributors also for these parts.
Goran Mork
1997\02\12@042511
by
lmclaren
D. and S. Ebsen wrote:
>
> I need to link(RF or microwave) two 16c84's for one-way serial coms.
> Range only needs to be ~ 5 ft, baud => 1200. I would prefer a single
> chip if possible with no external inductor, preset frequency is fine.
> Could someone point me in the right dirrection? Thanks, Dave Ebsen.
Can you get Elektor magazine, There are a nubmer of ads for wirless
modems etc.
--
Lee McLaren .....lmclaren
RemoveMEtrumpet.com.au
Comstra pty. ltd. RemoveMElmclaren
spamBeGonecomstra.com.au
2 Kirksway place phone 03 62244488
Hobart Tasmania fax 03 62244601
Australia 7000 mobil 018 138682
'It was five hours of Boggs's "channelling". After three hours
I asked him to summon up the soul of Jimi Hendrix and requested
All Along the Watchtower. You know, the guy's been dead
twenty years but he still hasn't lost his edge'
Mulder
'Wireless probes - communication question'
1997\03\21@173133
by
Carl Connett
I've got a multitude of things I'd like to measure and send wireless to a panel that will figure out what to do with the data, and/or display it.
Anyone try out the Abacom tranceivers yet? Any comments?
If I want to go wireless, is the I2C bus the way to go? I want to talk both directions. Would someone explain in simple terms how I would use that bus (or any other) in conjuction with the tranceivers? I'm very, very new at this.
Carl Connett
dayspring.com
'DS 1820 1-WIRE DIGITAL THERMOMETER'
1997\05\13@192744
by
thanassios Mavrogeorgiadis
I am trying to use the DS 1820 digital thermometer from Dallas
Semiconductors with a PIC16C84 but I can't read the correct temperature.
I also have tried the Steve Marchant program for interfacing the DS1820
with PIC16C84. The only temperature that i read is 3.5 degrees Celsius.
Has anybody used this device with 16c84?
Thanks for any insight you can offer.
----------------------------
Athanassios Mavrogeorgiadis
Electrical Engineer
spamBeGonetmav@spam@
spam_OUTtitan.ee.auth.gr
----------------------------
1997\05\14@085540
by
johan.haglow.1359
Athanassios Mavrogeorgiadis wrote:
>
> I am trying to use the DS 1820 digital thermometer from Dallas
> Semiconductors with a PIC16C84 but I can't read the correct temperature.
>
> I also have tried the Steve Marchant program for interfacing the DS1820
> with PIC16C84. The only temperature that i read is 3.5 degrees Celsius.
>
> Has anybody used this device with 16c84?
>
> Thanks for any insight you can offer.
>
> ----------------------------
>
> Athanassios Mavrogeorgiadis
> Electrical Engineer
> TakeThisOuTtmavspam
titan.ee.auth.gr
>
> ----------------------------
Hi
I have used the DS1820 with 484 without any problems just take care of
the timing limits in the datasheets. I have code for interfacing with
three different DS1820 att the same time and display it on a LCD. I
don't have it with me right now but i can send it to you if you
want.just send me a mail. If you have an oscilloscope try to check if
you have right signals out.
Johan
'1 or 3 Wires Keyboard ?!?'
1997\05\27@235216
by
senna
|
- Hello, PIC_World !
- I 'm thinking about how to make a minimised KeyBoarD interface to wire
with my PIC
- I 've two solutions :
- A 3 wires version using 2 Output & 1 Input of the PIC & a external
IC, a CD4040 14-bit ripple counter & some sheet around (pull-up,
transistor, etc...)
- A 1 wire version using a ANALOGIC input of the PIC & some resistors
(R-2R net)
- In the 3 wires version, I could have how many key that I wish, but I
scan the KeyBoarD, key-after-key
- 1 First I RESET the Counter(CD4040), keys are selected by Outputs of
the IC-Counter
- 2 Then DATA line equal: 0=key_up 1=key_down
- 3 For next key, I put a CLK pulse in the IC-Counter, and go to 2
- RESET is an Output of PIC wired to IC-Counter (CD4040)
- CLK is like RESET
- DATA is an Input of PIC wired with all key_out
- In the 1 wire version, the Nbs of keys I want is less, but no
scanning, just an Input, and no other ICs
- For each key I assigne a value :
- key_1= R
- key_2= 2R
- key_3= 4R
- key_4= 8R , etc ...
- I don't know if it's a good idea, may be 8 keys with 1 A/D Input(8
bits) ?
- And You ! What do You think about that ? Another(s) Idea(s) ? Hope you
reply .
:-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) (-: (-: (-: (-: (-:
(-: (-: (-: (-: (-: (-: (-:
'1-wire bus'
1997\05\30@060952
by
FrankT
Does anybody have experience in using the Dallas 1-Wire bus with a PIC
16c74. Escpecially with the DS2502 1Kbit eeprom.
Is there somewhere code available?
Frank Temmerman
1997\05\30@061825
by
David BALDWIN
Hi,
I used code that has been written for DS1820 (1 wire dallas interface),
and wrote code for DS1620. It is easy to do, so modifying these to use
the memory from DS should be easy too (just change the commands that are
sent). Send me emai if you want this code.
David
'1-wire bus'
1997\06\02@081439
by
FrankT
David Baldwin wrote
>
> I used code that has been written for DS1820 (1 wire dallas
interface),
> and wrote code for DS1620. It is easy to do, so modifying these to use
> the memory from DS should be easy too (just change the commands that ar=
e
> sent). Send me emai if you want this code.
Hi David,
Is it possible to send me the code for the DALLAS 1-Wire bus. I guess it is
written in assembly? It will come in handy for me when I write the 1-wire
bus in C.
Thanks
Frank Temmerman
Gymna Repro Belgium
1997\06\02@115450
by
David BALDWIN
|
part 0 10472 bytes
;###############################################################################
#
;###############################################################################
#
;################ routines to DS1820
############################################
; all this routines are to work on a 4MHz PIC, DS1820 connected to RA0
;
; Use the routines like this
; call Reset ;send reset
; movlw 0xCC ;skip ROM
; call Write
; movlw 0x44 ;convert Temp
; call Write
;
; wait at least 500ms
;
; call Reset ;send reset
; movlw 0xCC ;skip ROM
; call Write
; movlw 0xBE ;read scrachpad
; call Write
; call Read ;read temp LSB
; movwf TLSB ;store
; call Read ;read temp MSB
; movwf TMSB ;store
; call Read ;read User 1
; movwf USER1 ;store
; call Read ;read USER2
; movwf USER2 ;store
; call Read ;read don't care
; call Read ;read don't care
; call Read ;read COUNT REMAIN
; movwf CO_RE ;store
; call Read ;read COUNT PER C
; movwf CO_PE ;store
; call Read ;read CRC
; call Reset ;send reset
;******************************************************
; Routine to read a data from DS1820
; return the data in W
;******************************************************
READ clrf TEMP
movlw 8
movwf COUNT
bsf PORTA,DS1
RD0 BSF STATUS,RP0 ;Page 1
MOVLW B'00000000'
MOVWF TRISA ; RA0 as output
BCF STATUS,RP0 ; Page 0
bcf PORTA,DS1 ;0 start bit
nop ;1
nop ;2
BSF STATUS,RP0 ;3 Page 1
MOVLW B'00000001' ;4
MOVWF TRISA ;5 RA0 as input
BCF STATUS,RP0 ;6 Page 0
bsf PORTA,DS1 ;7
nop ;8
nop ;9
nop ;10
nop ;11
nop ;12
nop ;13
movf PORTA,W ;14 read bit
andlw B'00000001'
bcf STATUS,C
btfss STATUS,Z
bsf STATUS,C
rrf TEMP,1
call Delay50
decfsz COUNT,1 ;repete for 8 bits
goto RD0
BSF STATUS,RP0 ;Page 1
MOVLW B'00000001'
MOVWF TRISA ;RA0 as input
BCF STATUS,RP0 ;Page 0
movf TEMP,W
return
;******************************************************
; Routine to write a data in DS1820
; receive the data in W
;******************************************************
Write movwf temp ;store data
BSF STATUS,RP0 ;Page 1
MOVLW B'00000000'
MOVWF TRISA ;RA0 as output
BCF STATUS,RP0 ;Page 0
movlw 8
movwf COUNT
WR0 bcf STATUS,C ;clear carry
bcf PORTA,DS1 ;start bit
call Delay10 ;wait 15us
rrf TEMP,1 ;read bit
btfsc STATUS,C ;bit is 1?
bsf PORTA,DS1 ;yes, line goes to 1
call Delay50 ;wait 45us
bsf PORTA,DS1 ;line returns to 1
decfsz COUNT,1 ;repet for 8 bits
goto WR0
BSF STATUS,RP0 ;Page 1
MOVLW B'00000001'
MOVWF TRISA ;RA0 as input
BCF STATUS,RP0 ;Page 0
return
;******************************************************
; routine to send a reset pulse to DS1820
;******************************************************
Reset_DS
BSF STATUS,RP0 ;Page 1
MOVLW B'00000000'
MOVWF TRISA ;RA0 as output
BCF STATUS,RP0 ;Page 0
bcf PORTA,DS1 ;pulse em 0
call Delay500
bsf PORTA,DS1
BSF STATUS,RP0 ;Page 1
MOVLW B'00000001'
MOVWF TRISA ;RA0 as input
BCF STATUS,RP0 ;Page 0
call Delay500
return
;*********************************************************
; Rotina de Delay de 15 us
;*********************************************************
Delay10 movlw 1
movwf COUNT2
decfsz COUNT2,1
goto $-1
nop
return
;*********************************************************
; Rotina de Delay de 45 us
;*********************************************************
Delay50 movlw 15
movwf COUNT2
decfsz COUNT2,1
goto $-1
return
;*********************************************************
; Rotina de Delay de 500 us
;*********************************************************
Delay500
movlw 180
movwf COUNT2
decfsz COUNT2,1
goto $-1
return
;###############################################################################
#
;###############################################################################
#
;################ routines to DS1820
############################################
; all this routines are to work on a 4MHz PIC, DS1820 connected to RA0
;
; Use the routines like this
; call Reset ;send reset
; movlw 0xCC ;skip ROM
; call Write
; movlw 0x44 ;convert Temp
; call Write
;
; wait at least 500ms
;
; call Reset ;send reset
; movlw 0xCC ;skip ROM
; call Write
; movlw 0xBE ;read scrachpad
; call Write
; call Read ;read temp LSB
; movwf TLSB ;store
; call Read ;read temp MSB
; movwf TMSB ;store
; call Read ;read User 1
; movwf USER1 ;store
; call Read ;read USER2
; movwf USER2 ;store
; call Read ;read don't care
; call Read ;read don't care
; call Read ;read COUNT REMAIN
; movwf CO_RE ;store
; call Read ;read COUNT PER C
; movwf CO_PE ;store
; call Read ;read CRC
; call Reset ;send reset
;******************************************************
; Routine to read a data from DS1820
; return the data in W
;******************************************************
READ clrf TEMP
movlw 8
movwf COUNT
bsf PORTA,DS1
RD0 BSF STATUS,RP0 ;Page 1
MOVLW B'00000000'
MOVWF TRISA ; RA0 as output
BCF STATUS,RP0 ; Page 0
bcf PORTA,DS1 ;0 start bit
nop ;1
nop ;2
BSF STATUS,RP0 ;3 Page 1
MOVLW B'00000001' ;4
MOVWF TRISA ;5 RA0 as input
BCF STATUS,RP0 ;6 Page 0
bsf PORTA,DS1 ;7
nop ;8
nop ;9
nop ;10
nop ;11
nop ;12
nop ;13
movf PORTA,W ;14 read bit
andlw B'00000001'
bcf STATUS,C
btfss STATUS,Z
bsf STATUS,C
rrf TEMP,1
call Delay50
decfsz COUNT,1 ;repete for 8 bits
goto RD0
BSF STATUS,RP0 ;Page 1
MOVLW B'00000001'
MOVWF TRISA ;RA0 as input
BCF STATUS,RP0 ;Page 0
movf TEMP,W
return
;******************************************************
; Routine to write a data in DS1820
; receive the data in W
;******************************************************
Write movwf temp ;store data
BSF STATUS,RP0 ;Page 1
MOVLW B'00000000'
MOVWF TRISA ;RA0 as output
BCF STATUS,RP0 ;Page 0
movlw 8
movwf COUNT
WR0 bcf STATUS,C ;clear carry
bcf PORTA,DS1 ;start bit
call Delay10 ;wait 15us
rrf TEMP,1 ;read bit
btfsc STATUS,C ;bit is 1?
bsf PORTA,DS1 ;yes, line goes to 1
call Delay50 ;wait 45us
bsf PORTA,DS1 ;line returns to 1
decfsz COUNT,1 ;repet for 8 bits
goto WR0
BSF STATUS,RP0 ;Page 1
MOVLW B'00000001'
MOVWF TRISA ;RA0 as input
BCF STATUS,RP0 ;Page 0
return
;******************************************************
; routine to send a reset pulse to DS1820
;******************************************************
Reset_DS
BSF STATUS,RP0 ;Page 1
MOVLW B'00000000'
MOVWF TRISA ;RA0 as output
BCF STATUS,RP0 ;Page 0
bcf PORTA,DS1 ;pulse em 0
call Delay500
bsf PORTA,DS1
BSF STATUS,RP0 ;Page 1
MOVLW B'00000001'
MOVWF TRISA ;RA0 as input
BCF STATUS,RP0 ;Page 0
call Delay500
return
;*********************************************************
; Rotina de Delay de 15 us
;*********************************************************
Delay10 movlw 1
movwf COUNT2
decfsz COUNT2,1
goto $-1
nop
return
;*********************************************************
; Rotina de Delay de 45 us
;*********************************************************
Delay50 movlw 15
movwf COUNT2
decfsz COUNT2,1
goto $-1
return
;*********************************************************
; Rotina de Delay de 500 us
;*********************************************************
Delay500
movlw 180
movwf COUNT2
decfsz COUNT2,1
goto $-1
return
'Pics and wire-wrapping..'
1997\06\10@205643
by
Ravindra Divekar
Hi folks!
this is my first attempt at making a
wire-wrapped board.
Please tell me:
do we need to use special IC sockets, if so,
what are they called?
how much do wire-wrapping tools cost ?
has anybody used a bread-board for prototyping a PIC ?
Thanks!...ravindra/.
1997\06\10@231645
by
Reginald Neale
|
>Hi folks!
>this is my first attempt at making a
>wire-wrapped board.
>
>Please tell me:
>do we need to use special IC sockets, if so,
>what are they called?
They are just called "wire-wrap sockets." They have square pins about
0.025" and there are two lengths, depending on how many wraps they accept.
You want the longer ones, about an inch long. They will accept two separate
connections, so you can branch or daisy-chain.
>how much do wire-wrapping tools cost ?
The professional wire-wrap guns probably cost USD50-100, but you can buy a
hand tool for only a few dollars. It's slower and less consistent, but with
a little practice, you can do a perfectly acceptable job. The other end of
the tool is an UN-wrapping tool, which you will also need, unless you never
make mistakes :-)
Wire-wrap uses special wire. It's solid, silver-plated 28 ga. wire with
kynar insulation. You should get red for Vcc, Black for ground, and at
least a couple of other colors, as the colors make it easier to trace
connections when you're troubleshooting. You should use a special stripping
tool which prevents nicking the wire. It's also possible to buy packets of
wire of various lengths, that have been prestripped on both ends.
>has anybody used a bread-board for prototyping a PIC ?
Sure. At low frequencies it's the simplest approach.
>
Good Luck!
Reg Neale
1997\06\10@232053
by
Sean Breheny
|
At 04:42 PM 6/10/97 -0700, you wrote:
>Hi folks!
>this is my first attempt at making a
>wire-wrapped board.
>
>Please tell me:
>do we need to use special IC sockets, if so,
>what are they called?
>how much do wire-wrapping tools cost ?
>
>has anybody used a bread-board for prototyping a PIC ?
>
>
>Thanks!...ravindra/.
>
>
There are "wirewrap" IC sockets. These have much longer pins to aid in
wrapping. I am not very familiar with wire wrap tools, but a quick check of
the Mouser catalog showed me that they tend to be expensive! Mouser lists
$43 for the unwrap tool and $41 for the wrap tool! My guess is that you
could find much better than thism though.
I'm not sure what you mean by a bread-board. Do you mean a piece of PC board
with a grid of holes on it without copper? I have never used one of these
but I almost always use the white socket type breadboards for initial PIC
designs. I do not have many problems with them, they work great and are VERY
convenient. Don't know what I would do without them.
Sean
1997\06\11@004029
by
William Chops Westfield
You want the longer ones, about an inch long. They will accept two
separate connections, so you can branch or daisy-chain.
"Three level" is the standard size.
>how much do wire-wrapping tools cost ?
The professional wire-wrap guns probably cost USD50-100
And up.
but you can buy a hand tool for only a few dollars.
About $15, these days. Get one that does a "modified wrap", if you have a
choice. (This puts a turn or two of insulation around the post as well as
the normal 7 turns or so of bare wire)
It's slower and less consistent, but with a little practice, you can do a
perfectly acceptable job. The other end of the tool is an UN-wrapping tool,
which you will also need, unless you never make mistakes :-)
And there's a wire stripper in the middle.
Wire-wrap uses special wire. It's solid, silver-plated 28 ga. wire
30ga. for normal connections. Still pretty easy to find.
with kynar insulation. You should get red for Vcc, Black for ground, and
at least a couple of other colors, as the colors make it easier to trace
connections when you're troubleshooting.
Multiple colors are nice, especially for debugging. If you have red,
black, and white, I wouldn't waste red and black on VCC/GND (or not only
there!)
You should use a special stripping tool which prevents nicking the wire.
Like the one in the middle of the manual tool. "pro" strippers will run
you another $100...
It's also possible to buy packets of wire of various lengths, that have
been prestripped on both ends.
Recomended. Stripping wires is a pain.
Some things suck with wire wrap, such as memory buses. If you're doing a
memory array, consider some form of wiring that allows you to daisy chain
connections more easilly. Passive components are also a pain. Official
policy was to put them on DIP headers and use normal WW IC sockets.
Assuming that you aren't using a CAD system that generates wire lists, make
a zerox of your schematic and highlight over each segment of a wire run as
you make it..
I spent a summer job after highschool doing prototype wirewrapping, using
electric guns and good strippers. 30 wires/hour (including stripping) was
a pretty good rate for a moderately experienced beginner. Manual is
slower, of course. Take your time. I've actually WWrapped a couple
hobby-sized projects, including an ascii keyboard encoder (ala Lancaster)
and a 6bit 75bps to 8 bit 300bps newswire converter (using UARTs.) It
works pretty well for things about that size (and probably for most
PIC-style projects.)
For experimenting around, those proto-board things have pretty much
completely replaced wirewrapping. They're wonderful, and I'm really
glad that they came along right about the same time I started to experiment.
WWrapping is nice for circuits where you're going to build no more than
one or two "production" copies of a device. There are assorted reasons
why WWraping is reliable enough for production circuitry...
BillW
1997\06\11@073300
by
Andy Kunz
At 09:40 PM 6/10/97 PDT, you wrote:
> You want the longer ones, about an inch long. They will accept two
> separate connections, so you can branch or daisy-chain.
I use regular sockets and just solder the kynar to them. The ancient Radio
Shack hand tool I have does a great job of stripping 1/16" of insulation off.
Andy
==================================================================
Andy Kunz - Montana Design - 409 S 6th St - Phillipsburg, NJ 08865
Hardware & Software for Industry & R/C Hobbies
"Go fast, turn right, and keep the wet side down!"
==================================================================
1997\06\11@094143
by
Byron A Jeff
{Quote hidden}>
> At 04:42 PM 6/10/97 -0700, you wrote:
> >Hi folks!
> >this is my first attempt at making a
> >wire-wrapped board.
> >
> >Please tell me:
> >do we need to use special IC sockets, if so,
> >what are they called?
> >how much do wire-wrapping tools cost ?
> >
> >has anybody used a bread-board for prototyping a PIC ?
> >
> >
> >Thanks!...ravindra/.
> >
> >
>
> There are "wirewrap" IC sockets. These have much longer pins to aid in
> wrapping. I am not very familiar with wire wrap tools, but a quick check of
> the Mouser catalog showed me that they tend to be expensive! Mouser lists
> $43 for the unwrap tool and $41 for the wrap tool! My guess is that you
> could find much better than thism though.
Start at Radio Shack. They have a wire wrap tool and wire stripper for $8.
BTW I played with wire wrap guns and Strip-N-wrap tools for several years
until I realized they consistently made flaky connections that were extremely
difficult to debug. Since then I've stuck with the Rat Sack tool and I've
been satisfied ever since.
>
> I'm not sure what you mean by a bread-board. Do you mean a piece of PC board
> with a grid of holes on it without copper?
Commonly known as a perfbord.
> I have never used one of these
> but I almost always use the white socket type breadboards for initial PIC
> designs. I do not have many problems with them, they work great and are VERY
> convenient. Don't know what I would do without them.
I use bread boards for very very small circuits. Anything larger and you run
the danger of accidentally pulling a wire.
BAJ
1997\06\11@150659
by
Leon Heller
1997\06\12@002634
by
Richard Adamec
|
On Tue, 10 Jun 1997, Ravindra Divekar wrote:
> Hi folks!
> this is my first attempt at making a
> wire-wrapped board.
>
> Please tell me:
> do we need to use special IC sockets, if so,
> what are they called?
> how much do wire-wrapping tools cost ?
>
> has anybody used a bread-board for prototyping a PIC ?
>
>
> Thanks!...ravindra/.
>
Depends what you're trying to do, wire wrapping is great for a longlasting
prototype (very reliable (timewise) connections ) but a can be a little
slow to put together and is oh so much fun if you put a wire wrong
somewhere, wirewrapping sockets are available and are usually reasonably
cheap as is a hand wire wrapping tool.
If possible, use breadboards, a lot easier to make quick prototypes, easy
to pull apart if you make a mistake, however not a long lasting (must take
care not to accidently pull out wires during storage) good idea to pay
that little extra for good boards if you intend to do a lot of work, cheap
boards really don't pay off as the clips inside wear out.
if you have half decent boards, breadboarding works great for a long time,
even for micro. based designs.
'wire wrapping'
1997\06\12@042532
by
Tim Forcer
|
Few comments, please ignore if you've heard it/them already.
1. I'd invest in a "proper" wire-wrap stripper such as those made by CK in
Germany (mine for 30 AWG = 0.25mm is part number 3756). The built-in
stripper in the 3-in-one tool gets irksome when doing a lot of wrapping.
Proper tool also makes it easy to get the length of stripped wire absolutely
right.
2. When wrapping a daisy chain connection such as a data bus or clock line,
don't go a>b, b>c, c>d etc. Go a>b, c>d, e>f etc THEN b>c, d>e etc. Reason
is that you may want to change the connections, and if it's early in the
daisy chain, you have to unwrap the whole lot. Sometimes an unwrapped wire
can be re-wrapped, but it won't provide a RELIABLE connection. This
matters, since a good wire-wrap connection is very good, certainly better
than single-sided PCB. One guy here one time wrote a program to sort a
netlist to give this coherent two-level wrap. When used with our
long-obsolete PCB layout program to get a good placement, meant that boards
were wrapped a lot faster than the 30 wraps/hour quoted in this list by
someone who once did it for a living. I suspect reason is that most of the
time is taken identifying unambiguously the two pins to be wrapped, and/or
checking the work with a continuity tester - actually doing the stripping
and wrapping is a matter of seconds.
3. If you're going to do any significant amount of wrapping (or for
sustained periods), I'd advise shelling out the megabucks for a powered
cut-strip-wrap tool. The heads on these things cost over 200 UKpound, but
they make life very easy. (The heads are easily damaged by inexperienced
users.) Main problem with a powered tool is that it works by tension, so
the wrapped board has a tendency to come out of the assembly frame with a
pronounced curvature! There are ways round this, which I won't bore you
with, especially as any engineer or technician can work out their own.
4. Just because a design works on wire-wrap, doesn't mean it will work on
PCB! Since wire-wrap is essentially point-to-point, and the connections are
often at almost random orientations (and certainly with no sharp corners
except at pins), the high-frequency characteristics are totally different to
those of a PCB. A PCB may suffer much more crosstalk and interference, and
there may be signal skews that were absent on the wire wrap board.
Wire-wrapping is perfectly capable of functioning correctly for years, so
only change to PCB if quantity or other considerations such as space dictate.
5. Surface mount and wire-wrap CAN go together. It is most unfortunate
that Vero stopped making a wonderful system that allowed you to put together
what amounted to custom wire-wrap surface mount footprints for PLCC
packages. However, there are still lots of companies out there making
megabucks selling transition connectors/sockets/adaptors.
6. A previous comment said don't waste two colours just on Vcc and Gnd -
omitting to mention that most prototyping boards provide a Vcc/Gnd grid that
you link the sockets to with Z links (so called because they are more or
less that shape - you drop them over power pins and solder in place before
starting wrapping). It's also a good idea to solder a decoupler between the
power pins at this stage - adding after wrapping is not easy, unless you
aren't bothered about getting the capacitor closely connected to the IC
pins, in which case why bother at all? Z links should not be used to
connect pins such as chip selects and output enables to power - you may want
to change a permanent enable to controlled enable!
7. It's easy to implement a "branching star" connection scheme in
wire-wrap, and this may be very useful for analogue signals and to minimise
clock skew. Just watch out for the wrapping strategy as per comment 2
should there be any possibility you might want to modify the net.
8. An undocumented wire-wrap, or worse, a documented wire-wrap that's been
modified in unrecorded ways, is an absolute nightmare to reverse-engineer
for the actual netlist. It's the sort of mistake lots of people make - once.
That wraps up my 2p worth. Sorry folks, couldn't resist.
Tim Forcer Tel: (+44) (0)1703 593362
Fax: (+44) (0)1703 592053
email: EraseMEtmf
@spam@ecs.soton.ac.uk
Department of Electronics & Computer Science
Room 3005, Building 35
The University, Southampton, SO17 1BJ UK
1997\06\12@094603
by
myke predko
|
>Few comments, please ignore if you've heard it/them already.
Tim,
Good Summary, I would only add a few points and comments...
0. First spend some time working on your layout before you start. This can
save hours of time eliminating sections of the board that are unreasonably
thick with wires.
0.1. Decide on your pin numbering scheme before you start/send the board
out. Most hobbyists/engineering prototypes go by component.pin number.
Most professional wire wrappers require netlists that go by board X-Y
coordinates. It doesn't matter which you use, just make sure your wirelist
is correct for it (ie don't try to change coordinate systems in your head).
You may want to invest in the little paper numbering guides that slip over
the back of the wire wrap socket pins if you are new at this game (it can be
confusing reversing yourself and the pins the first few times you have to do
it).
>1. I'd invest in a "proper" wire-wrap stripper such as those made by CK in
>Germany (mine for 30 AWG = 0.25mm is part number 3756). The built-in
>stripper in the 3-in-one tool gets irksome when doing a lot of wrapping.
>Proper tool also makes it easy to get the length of stripped wire absolutely
>right.
I would agree with this statement if you are going to do a lot of wiring and
for a long period of time. I agree that the moderately priced tools (the
squeeze powered/cheap electric wrappers) are really not worth the money
because of how easily they will break.
If it's a one off project that doesn't have too many pins, buy the Radio
Scrap 3 in 1.
{Quote hidden}>2. When wrapping a daisy chain connection such as a data bus or clock line,
>don't go a>b, b>c, c>d etc. Go a>b, c>d, e>f etc THEN b>c, d>e etc. Reason
>is that you may want to change the connections, and if it's early in the
>daisy chain, you have to unwrap the whole lot. Sometimes an unwrapped wire
>can be re-wrapped, but it won't provide a RELIABLE connection. This
>matters, since a good wire-wrap connection is very good, certainly better
>than single-sided PCB. One guy here one time wrote a program to sort a
>netlist to give this coherent two-level wrap. When used with our
>long-obsolete PCB layout program to get a good placement, meant that boards
>were wrapped a lot faster than the 30 wraps/hour quoted in this list by
>someone who once did it for a living. I suspect reason is that most of the
>time is taken identifying unambiguously the two pins to be wrapped, and/or
>checking the work with a continuity tester - actually doing the stripping
>and wrapping is a matter of seconds.
Good advice (and something that most people don't do, even when they know
they should).
>3. If you're going to do any significant amount of wrapping (or for
>sustained periods), I'd advise shelling out the megabucks for a powered
>cut-strip-wrap tool. The heads on these things cost over 200 UKpound, but
>they make life very easy. (The heads are easily damaged by inexperienced
>users.) Main problem with a powered tool is that it works by tension, so
>the wrapped board has a tendency to come out of the assembly frame with a
>pronounced curvature! There are ways round this, which I won't bore you
>with, especially as any engineer or technician can work out their own.
Same comments to 1. above.
>4. Just because a design works on wire-wrap, doesn't mean it will work on
>PCB! Since wire-wrap is essentially point-to-point, and the connections are
>often at almost random orientations (and certainly with no sharp corners
>except at pins), the high-frequency characteristics are totally different to
>those of a PCB. A PCB may suffer much more crosstalk and interference, and
>there may be signal skews that were absent on the wire wrap board.
>Wire-wrapping is perfectly capable of functioning correctly for years, so
>only change to PCB if quantity or other considerations such as space dictate.
And vica-versa. I've seen a number of projects that don't work as wire
wrap, but we've gone ahead and embedded them into cards and they've just
worked fine (typically high frequency and the quality of the signals can be
observed to degrade). Also note that it's just about impossible to do any
type of equal length nets using wire wraping.
I disagree with the comment that a a PCB may suffer more crosstalk and
interference; we have lots of boards here in various logic families running
as fast as 500 MHz without any worry of x-talk. Now, the boards all have
internal ground/power planes and high speed traces are placed in between
them, but that's the price you pay.
In my department, we design high speed functional test equipment, having to
do something twice is not an option, so we've come up with design rules for
different situations.
>5. Surface mount and wire-wrap CAN go together. It is most unfortunate
>that Vero stopped making a wonderful system that allowed you to put together
>what amounted to custom wire-wrap surface mount footprints for PLCC
>packages. However, there are still lots of companies out there making
>megabucks selling transition connectors/sockets/adaptors.
Been there, done that. It's a pain.
If you are going to do that, make sure you put down the special sockets
first - I always find I have a lot of fiddling before everything lies flat
and correctly laid out.
{Quote hidden}>6. A previous comment said don't waste two colours just on Vcc and Gnd -
>omitting to mention that most prototyping boards provide a Vcc/Gnd grid that
>you link the sockets to with Z links (so called because they are more or
>less that shape - you drop them over power pins and solder in place before
>starting wrapping). It's also a good idea to solder a decoupler between the
>power pins at this stage - adding after wrapping is not easy, unless you
>aren't bothered about getting the capacitor closely connected to the IC
>pins, in which case why bother at all? Z links should not be used to
>connect pins such as chip selects and output enables to power - you may want
>to change a permanent enable to controlled enable!
We usually buy sockets with the decoupling caps built it. More expensive,
but less fiddly wiring. Using the "Z Links" often require a special raw
card (which ironically enough, we have a ton of because IBM used to have a
standard for this and all prototyping cards were bought with this standard).
Once we run out of the cards, we'll probably abandon wire wrapping all
together.
>7. It's easy to implement a "branching star" connection scheme in
>wire-wrap, and this may be very useful for analogue signals and to minimise
>clock skew. Just watch out for the wrapping strategy as per comment 2
>should there be any possibility you might want to modify the net.
I disagree that this is an advantage with wire wrapping. When I say "equal
Length nets", we typically spec them to 0.1" (100 thou). With wirewrapping,
you'll find that some wires will be extra long on the board; because of
this, we've had to go to very small co-axes.
If you need precise equal-length nets, the best carrier and wiring solution
we've found is micro-wire boards, which are very expensive and take a long
time to get manufactured.
>8. An undocumented wire-wrap, or worse, a documented wire-wrap that's been
>modified in unrecorded ways, is an absolute nightmare to reverse-engineer
>for the actual netlist. It's the sort of mistake lots of people make - once.
The upsetting thing is, people being people make this mistake a lot more
than once.
9. A wire wrapped board is much more susceptible to physical damage than an
embedded board. Pins can get easily bent (shorting themselves against each
other) and wires can get pulled. As well, if the stripper isn't properly
calibrated, you may find that the wires inside the insulation can be nicked,
only to break later (especially when other wires are being EC'd).
About two years ago, we (Celestica) went through a process of figuring out
the costs and advantages of different methods of board assembly. Wire
wrapping was the worst method by far; the opportunity for defects was the
highest, the time required to build a board was the longest, the signal
integrity was hardest to ensure and the actual cost was the highest.
The reason for the exercise was that because of our accounting procedures,
you had to plan capital to get embedded boards made, wire wrapping was
considered an "expense" item (ie it could be done without going outside, or
if you did go outside, it could be done on an expense basis without a lot of
paper work and prior planning).
The design used for the comparison was 50 Dips, from 8 pin to 40 pin with a
bit of analog and some connectors.
The exercise was designed for Test Engineering, where we do a lot of
electrical designs that are used within the companay and not shipped to
customers. As I alluded to above, we have some designs with 400+ active
components, specialized connectors, and up to 500 MHz signals running on a
variety of logic families.
We also do RF work up to 18 GHz (although this uses specialized equipment
and isn't really appropriate in this exercise).
The assembly methods compared were:
Wire Wrapping
Embedded Card with the Design Engineer using Cadence and Cooper-Chyan Routers
Embedded Card with an external company doing board layout
Micro-Wire
Micro-Wire, even though it is very expensive and boards can take up to 10
weeks to get built provided the best signal integrity.
Embedded Cards, laid out by an external company was the cheapest, but tended
to have more design problems. But, if the design of the board was farmed
out by the engineer (ie to a student), the development process will require
less engineerign support.
The Design Engineer doing the layout was the best all round, but is
impractical in some situations (such as the engineer having to work on
different aspects of the project, prepare for the cards coming in).
For Embedded cards, we have fast proto shops that can provide up to 12 layer
boards in less than 48 hours from electronic transmission of the gerbers.
Costs are somewhat proportional to board size/complexity, but lower than
wire-wrapping in just about all cases except for very simple boards (less
than ten components with only IDC connectors).
Even for hobbyists, I would argue that the cut-off point for wire-wrapping
to an embedded card from somebody like AP Circuits is two or three chips.
Over the last two years, for all my hobby work, I've gone from doing
everything from wirewrap to prototyping on a "vector" board (the ones with
the spring contacts) and then having boards built (typically by AP Circuits)
if I want to keep the design.
Actually, for PICs, I should point out that the SIMMSticks are great
prototyping tools (I used one for one of the projects in my book) and can
reduce your prototype build drastically. Mixing them with point to point
and wire-wrapping can be a very effective PIC prototyping method.
>That wraps up my 2p worth. Sorry folks, couldn't resist.
Sorry Tim for the long missive on wire wrap versus other forms,
myke
"Aliens are really just the same as us, only their molecules are different"
- Will Robinson
1997\06\12@195907
by
Ross McKenzie
|
<big unwrap>
>That wraps up my 2p worth. Sorry folks, couldn't resist.
>
>Tim Forcer Tel: (+44) (0)1703 593362
> Fax: (+44) (0)1703 592053
> email: @spam@tmfspam_OUT
.....ecs.soton.ac.uk
>Department of Electronics & Computer Science
>Room 3005, Building 35
>The University, Southampton, SO17 1BJ UK
>
Two comments from Down Under in addition to Tim Forcer's excellent summary
of the art.
1. There used to be available some thin plastic sheets which slid over the
wire wrap socket pins and provided clearly readable numbers for each wire
wrap pin from the action side. You could also write the circuit reference,
IC4, etc on these little cheat sheets. I would never attempt a wrap job of
any size without these sanity-savers. Nothing worse than putting your head
on the pillow at night and find that you are still counting 1..28 looking
through the bottom of the IC.
2. I always used a photocopy of the circuit being wrapped and drew along
each circuit track with a bright green felt tip pen as it was wrapped. There
was never any doubt about whether a connection had been done despite ringing
telephones, etc.
Regards,
Ross McKenzie
Melbourne Australia
'wire wrapping and SimmStick.'
1997\06\12@201749
by
Don McKenzie
|
myke predko wrote:
big snips ---------
> Actually, for PICs, I should point out that the SIMMSticks are great
> prototyping tools (I used one for one of the projects in my book) and can
> reduce your prototype build drastically. Mixing them with point to point
> and wire-wrapping can be a very effective PIC prototyping method.
> That wraps up my 2p worth. Sorry folks, couldn't resist.
> Sorry Tim for the long missive on wire wrap versus other forms,
> myke
Glad someone finally got around to this point Myke. I too am a fan of
wire wrap and have used it for small and large prototypes, however
having all your PIC circuitry on a 30 pin SimmStick module means you
only have to wire wrap, or solder point to point your specific I/O.
And when you have finished your birdsnest, and finally have it
de-bugged, you then pull out your SimmStick and re-use it in your next
project.
New SimmSticks are now appearing that may even cover your specific I/O
task.
Interfacing to the SimmStick can be done via a set of 30 male/female
pins, or a 30 pin memory module socket. This lends itself readily to
breadboard, and veroboard interfacing.
SimmStick also has proto type boards, so for a one off design, the
SimmStick proto board becomes the final product. You only need to join
your CPU board to your Proto board with a simple bus using veroboard or
male/female pins. Suitable veroboard that has 30 tracks in parallel at
.1" centers must be one of the most common boards available off the
shelf.
Don McKenzie spamBeGonedonEraseME
dontronics.com http://www.dontronics.com
PICSTART and Newfound PIC Programmers Firmware Upgrades.
SLI, the serial LCD that auto detects baud rates from 100 to 125K bps.
SimmStick(tm) A PIC proto PCB the size of a 30 pin Simm Memory Module.
Send a blank message to infospamBeGone
dontronics.com for more details.
'DS2430 1-Wire EEprom with pic ?'
1997\08\08@202303
by
Frank Schmalz
Hi,
has anyone worked with the Dallas DS2430 or other 1-Wire bus chips yet?
I want to connect a DS2430 246 Bit EEprom to store the last setpoint of my
instrument to the PIC16C72. I have the data-sheet, but somehow I have a
feeling that I will need a little bit more than that. Does anyone have more
information, knows where to get more information, or even could give me
some hints ?
Thanks,
AND ! Many thanks to all of you who answered to my ADC Vref questions! You
helped me a lot !
Bye,
Franky X.
-----------------------------------------------
Man is always a victim of his own truth - Camus
1997\08\09@090627
by
Octavio Nogueira
|
I have routines to work with DS1802 1 wire termometer, if you want
I can send it to you.
Regards,
Octavio
======================================================
Octavio Nogueira - e-mail: RemoveMEnogueira@spam@
spamBeGonemandic.com.br
http://www.geocities.com/~oct_nogueira
"ProPic" Production PIC Programmer Windows under US$20
======================================================
----
De: Frank Schmalz <.....schmalz@spam@
EraseMEBV.RZ.FH-MUENCHEN.DE>
Para: .....PICLISTRemoveME
MITVMA.MIT.EDU
Data: Sexta-feira, Agosto 08, 1997 09:32
Assunto: DS2430 1-Wire EEprom with pic ?
>Hi,
>has anyone worked with the Dallas DS2430 or other 1-Wire bus chips yet?
>I want to connect a DS2430 246 Bit EEprom to store the last setpoint of
my
>instrument to the PIC16C72. I have the data-sheet, but somehow I have a
>feeling that I will need a little bit more than that. Does anyone have
more
>information, knows where to get more information, or even could give me
>some hints ?
1997\08\09@103313
by
Guy Farebrother
|
If possible could I please get a copy of these routines? I am looking at
talking to a DS1996 for memory storage and I think it uses the same
one-wire interface.
Thanks in advance
----------
{Quote hidden}> From: Octavio Nogueira <
.....nogueiraSTOPspam
@spam@MANDIC.COM.BR>
> To:
PICLISTEraseME
@spam@MITVMA.MIT.EDU
> Subject: Re: DS2430 1-Wire EEprom with pic ?
> Date: Saturday, August 09, 1997 7:05 AM
>
> I have routines to work with DS1802 1 wire termometer, if you want
> I can send it to you.
>
> Regards,
>
> Octavio
> ======================================================
> Octavio Nogueira - e-mail:
RemoveMEnogueira
spamBeGonemandic.com.br
>
http://www.geocities.com/~oct_nogueira
> "ProPic" Production PIC Programmer Windows under US$20
> ======================================================
> ----
> De: Frank Schmalz <
spamBeGoneschmalzKILLspam
@spam@BV.RZ.FH-MUENCHEN.DE>
> Para:
PICLISTspam_OUT
@spam@MITVMA.MIT.EDU
> Data: Sexta-feira, Agosto 08, 1997 09:32
> Assunto: DS2430 1-Wire EEprom with pic ?
>
> >Hi,
> >has anyone worked with the Dallas DS2430 or other 1-Wire bus chips yet?
> >I want to connect a DS2430 246 Bit EEprom to store the last setpoint of
> my
> >instrument to the PIC16C72. I have the data-sheet, but somehow I have a
> >feeling that I will need a little bit more than that. Does anyone have
> more
> >information, knows where to get more information, or even could give me
> >some hints ?
'two wire coms'
1997\10\15@074053
by
Richard
I'm working on a simple serial control project and need some ideas please.
My application requires that a master unit transmit and recieve from as
many as 30 slave units.
The messages are only a byte long and the master will pole all slaves. I
need a way of powering and communicating with the slaves via a 3 pin mic
lead.(sheilded twisted pair). I would also like to use the system on
exsisting audio lines thus leaving only one wire for comms.(and a ground).
The final problem is the comms need to be inaudible(out of the audio
range.) Natsemi have a powerline modem chip whick will operate on a carrier
up to 50 Khz however it needs the mains zero crossing for synchronising and
im running dc. Any Ideas Huh?!!
Cheers
Richard Bond..
spamBeGonerichardb@spam@
mailbox.uq.edu.au
1997\10\15@120010
by
Pierce Nichols
|
On Wed, 15 Oct 1997, Richard wrote:
> The messages are only a byte long and the master will pole all slaves. I
> need a way of powering and communicating with the slaves via a 3 pin mic
> lead.(sheilded twisted pair). I would also like to use the system on
Sounds like you could run the hot side of the power on one lead of
the pair and data on the other, and use the shield for ground. Might be a
tad noisy though -- what sort of data rate do you need?
> exsisting audio lines thus leaving only one wire for comms.(and a ground).
> The final problem is the comms need to be inaudible(out of the audio
Not hard -- just needs to be above about 25 kHz. No problem at all
for a PIC :).
> range.) Natsemi have a powerline modem chip whick will operate on a carrier
> up to 50 Khz however it needs the mains zero crossing for synchronising and
> im running dc. Any Ideas Huh?!!
Well, this is a horrible kluge, but you could try adding a 50 kHz
carrier to the dc power (use a rectifier to make it dc again), and put the
comms on that line. Do these powerline modems work if the frequency of the
powerline is not steady? Alternately, you could add your 50 kHz carrier to
the audio channel and use the modem chip to piggyback your data on that
line, and then filter out the carrier at the other end.
Pierce Nichols
"I have a work order for the immediate demolition of your reality tunnel."
-Bob, RAW Construction Corp.
===========================================================================
Geek Code v2.1: d?H+sg+a-w++v+c++UHS+P+L+E+N+K!WM--!V-po+Y+t+5+j+R+G!tvb+++
D+B---e+u*hf+r+*n-y+
1997\10\15@213358
by
Peter Wintulich
It looks like you could use a similar method to the radio stations. They send
broadcast quality audio over a two wire ballanced line, they have center tap
the transformers at each end. Then they use earth as one wire and the center
taps as the second wire.
You could use the same idea.
1) use the phantom power (about 48V) to power the Micros,
2) super impose the data on the power as a pulse per bit time.
I have a rough untested design that uses for the :-
Transmitter == A tristate o/p pin, dc isolation cap, two resistors as voltage
divider.
Reciver == An opamp, four resistors and a cap.
and maybe a 555 ic
Phantom power is often taped off the ballanced line with a couple of resistors.
Regards
Peter Wintulich
RemoveMEPwintuliEraseME
KILLspamMicrobits.com.au
1997\10\16@003411
by
Mike Keitz
|
On Thu, 16 Oct 1997 11:09:13 +0930 Peter Wintulich
<spamBeGonePWintulichspam_OUT
RemoveMEMICROBITS.COM.AU> writes:
>It looks like you could use a similar method to the radio stations.
>They send
> broadcast quality audio over a two wire ballanced line, they have
>center tap
> the transformers at each end. Then they use earth as one wire and the
>center
> taps as the second wire.
The result is the audio signal is sent differentially between the two
wires in the pair, and the DC is sent common-mode. Good transformers
(for minimum degradation of the audio signal, for recording-studio
quality) are likely to be expensive. If you just need PA or broadcast
quality then this could work well.
>
>You could use the same idea.
>1) use the phantom power (about 48V) to power the Micros,
I don't know why 48V would be required, use about 12V and pass it through
7805 regulators to power the PIC.
>2) super impose the data on the power as a pulse per bit time.
>
>
>I have a rough untested design that uses for the :-
>Transmitter == A tristate o/p pin, dc isolation cap, two resistors as
>voltage
> divider.
>
Design the driver so if the line gets shorted (sudden change in voltage
will cause the coupling cap to discharge through the driver), reversed,
or overvolted, the PIC ouput is safe. This probably means using an
external driver, not the PIC output directly.
At high frequences, the transformer may distort attempts to apply a
common-mode signal via the center tap. If it were an ideal transformer
it wouldn't, but there will be some leakage in any real transformer.
Connecting small capacitors from the audio lines (ends of the winding) to
the center tap should solve this.
>Reciver == An opamp, four resistors and a cap.
> and maybe a 555 ic
Yes, just couple the power line signal from before the voltage regulator
into an amplifier and clean it up to logic levels. The voltage regulator
may not like having a bunch of high-frequency junk at its input. Use a
LC filter so the L is a choke to remove data from the power and the C
gives the regulator the large input capacitance that they like. If the L
in the filter is one side of a transformer then it would be easy to use
the other side for data in-out using a differential line driver/receiver
chip.
The data channel won't have response to DC like a wired RS-232 connection
does. For low bit rates, consider FSK modulation / demodulation using
4046 or similar chips. This keeps the data signal frequency out of the
audio range. At high bit rates (likely higher than a PIC with something
else to do can generate easily directly), use a Manchester code or
similar so there is no DC content. The Manchester code will also limit
the low-frequency component of the data signal to about half the bit
rate.
>
>Phantom power is often taped off the ballanced line with a couple of
>resistors.
This could work for a low power device (like a PIC circuit). Not using a
transformer means the transducer (microphone, etc) operates with the DC
and data still common-mode.
1997\10\16@015856
by
Peter Wintulich
>>
>>You could use the same idea.
>>1) use the phantom power (about 48V) to power the Micros,
>
>I don't know why 48V would be required, use about 12V and pass it through
>7805 regulators to power the PIC.
The Phantom power I was referring to is sent from standard audio mixing desks
for powering small amplifiers inside some mikes. Most desks have switches to
enable this option on a channel by channel basis.
The 48V is what the power supply for the mixing desk puts out for phantom power.
The actual line voltage is I expect much less. Also I do not know the polarity
of the 48V.
Regards
Peter Wintulich
.....Pwintuli
RemoveMEmicrobits.com
!
1997\10\16@024317
by
Dwayne Reid
|
>The Phantom power I was referring to is sent from standard audio mixing desks
> for powering small amplifiers inside some mikes. Most desks have switches to
> enable this option on a channel by channel basis.
>
>The 48V is what the power supply for the mixing desk puts out for phantom
power.
>The actual line voltage is I expect much less. Also I do not know the polarity
> of the 48V.
Most consoles use a pair of well matched 6.8K resistors from the +48V rail
to pins 2 & 3 of the input connector (pin 1 is gnd). Some (older) consoles
using input transformers feed the +48V to the center tap of the input
transformer. They usually include a 3.3K resistor for current limit, but I
have seen values ranging from 6.8K down to no series resistor at all. Count
on modern consoles using the 2 closely matched 6.8K resistors. The phantom
voltage polarity is positive to the signal pins, negative to gnd.
Dwayne Reid <dwayner
@spam@planet.eon.net>
Trinity Electronics Systems Ltd Edmonton, Alberta, CANADA
(403) 489-3199 voice (403) 487-6397 fax
1997\10\16@034828
by
ht
At 21:32 15.10.97 +1000, you wrote:
>I'm working on a simple serial control project and need some ideas please.
>My application requires that a master unit transmit and recieve from as
>many as 30 slave units.
>The messages are only a byte long and the master will pole all slaves. I
>need a way of powering and communicating with the slaves via a 3 pin mic
>lead.(sheilded twisted pair). I would also like to use the system on
>exsisting audio lines thus leaving only one wire for comms.(and a ground).
>The final problem is the comms need to be inaudible(out of the audio
>range.) Natsemi have a powerline modem chip whick will operate on a carrier
>up to 50 Khz however it needs the mains zero crossing for synchronising and
>im running dc. Any Ideas Huh?!!
>
My first idea would be to implement something like tha Dallas 1 wire uLAN
interface. Though, I have no idea if this will be out of the audio range...
Havard.
'two wire coms [OT]'
1997\10\16@165549
by
Eric van Es
|
On this subject: did anyone else hear about the nice idea of using powerlines
to connect ppl to the 'net?
News just broke here...
Richard wrote:
{Quote hidden}> I'm working on a simple serial control project and need some ideas please.
> My application requires that a master unit transmit and recieve from as
> many as 30 slave units.
> The messages are only a byte long and the master will pole all slaves. I
> need a way of powering and communicating with the slaves via a 3 pin mic
> lead.(sheilded twisted pair). I would also like to use the system on
> exsisting audio lines thus leaving only one wire for comms.(and a ground).
> The final problem is the comms need to be inaudible(out of the audio
> range.) Natsemi have a powerline modem chip whick will operate on a carrier
> up to 50 Khz however it needs the mains zero crossing for synchronising and
> im running dc. Any Ideas Huh?!!
>
> Cheers
> Richard Bond..
>
EraseMErichardbRemoveME
STOPspammailbox.uq.edu.au
--
Eric van Es | Cape Town, South Africa
RemoveMEvanesKILLspam
TakeThisOuTilink.nis.za | http://www.nis.za/~vanes
LOOKING FOR TEMPORARY / HOLIDAY ACCOMODATION?
http://www.nis.za/~vanes/accom.htm
1997\10\17@001237
by
Harold M Hallikainen
On Thu, 16 Oct 1997 22:50:42 +0200 Eric van Es <spamBeGonevanes
@spam@ILINK.NIS.ZA>
writes:
>On this subject: did anyone else hear about the nice idea of using
>powerlines
>to connect ppl to the 'net?
>
>News just broke here...
>
Doesn't sound like much to me. Power lines are real noisey and
any communications RF on them stops at the local step-down transformer.
So, the low voltage power line could, I suppose, be used as a local drop,
and they could put a router on each pole with a transformer to put info
onto the higher voltage lines higher on the pole. But, what is the data
capacity of those lines? So... I don't think there's much capability
here... but I've been wrong before.
Harold
1997\10\17@082323
by
Mike Smith
1997\10\17@084925
by
Jack Warren
> On this subject: did anyone else hear about the nice idea of using powerlines
> to connect ppl to the 'net?
>
> News just broke here...
>
Interesting. How do they get past the pole pig?
Jack Warren
1997\10\17@115634
by
Pekka Ritamaki
|
At 22:50 16.10.1997 +0200, you wrote:
>On this subject: did anyone else hear about the nice idea of using powerlines
>to connect ppl to the 'net?
Yes I am working powerline communications.
This is Lon-based network at 120KHz carrier. This design monitors
coin-machines ( one hand bandits) and sends info to owner if somebody take
money out or device is broken.
This is not ideal system, there are many difficuties for beginners: Do not
consider this as an idel way to communicate between stations.
I can mention some difficulties:
- How to move signal from on phase to other.
- A new CE-regulation ( European Interface standars) requires a lot of
capacitors for powerline filtering in each power supply input. These
capacitors eat a small high frequency signal from power line ( as required CE!)
-You can not control what happens a the cutomer power lines after you has
got everything working
Pekka
Pekka Ritamaki PROBYTE Oy Nirvankatu 31
33820 TAMPERE Finland http://www.sci.fi/~pri
Hardware+software+development tools
phone INT +358-3-2661885 fax INT +358-3-2661886
1997\10\17@133553
by
Reginald Neale
>On Thu, 16 Oct 1997 22:50:42 +0200 Eric van Es <RemoveMEvanesKILLspam
@spam@ILINK.NIS.ZA>
>writes:
>>On this subject: did anyone else hear about the nice idea of using
>>powerlines
>>to connect ppl to the 'net?
>>
>>News just broke here...
>>
>
> Doesn't sound like much to me. Power lines are real noisey and
>any communications RF on them stops at the local step-down transformer.
>So, the low voltage power line could, I suppose, be used as a local drop,
>and they could put a router on each pole with a transformer to put info
>onto the higher voltage lines higher on the pole. But, what is the data
>capacity of those lines? So... I don't think there's much capability
>here... but I've been wrong before.
>
>Harold
Wireless to each distribution xfmr might work. Would require striking a
deal with the power company.
Reg
1997\10\17@142039
by
Eric van Es
'DS1307 2 WIRE PROTOCOL'
1997\10\23@163326
by
WF AUTOMA‚ÌO
Is it the 2 wire Dallas Procotol for DS1307 IC, compatible with
I2C?
Miguel.
'Interfacing to 220 V AC Electrical wire to send/re'
1997\11\04@073550
by
Alberto Costa
Hi,
I have an IR receiver /repeater build that detect IR signal, and send it by wire to a photodiode.
Istead of using a photodiode I wont to send the code through 220V AC wire, and build some PIC based receivers, in order to respond to specific codes to turn on/off lights like systems using X10.
Dose anybody can help me on this, with a schema or so, to interface to 220V and send / receave a signal ?
Many thanks,
Alberto Costa
Portugal
E:Mail: KILLspamalberto_costa
.....edinfor.pt
1997\11\07@103623
by
Alberto Costa
Hi,
I have an IR receiver /repeater build that detect IR signal, and send it by wire to a photodiode.
Istead of using a photodiode I wont to send the code through 220V AC wire, and build some PIC based receivers, in order to respond to specific codes to turn on/off lights like systems using X10.
Dose anybody can help me on this, with a schema or so, to interface to 220V and send / receave a signal ?
Many thanks,
Alberto Costa
Portugal
E:Mail: spam_OUTalberto_costa
KILLspamedinfor.pt
'[OT] 1394/FireWire'
1997\11\25@035417
by
ht
'[OT] Wireless RF Modules'
1998\03\05@172105
by
Herbert Graf
I am interested in purchasing wireless RF modules which will connect a P
IC
with display to a PC eventually. If one doesn't know what I am talking
about, the type of item I am interested in is offered by LINX technologies
(http://www.linxtechnologies.com/). I would like to buy their units, but
they are quite far away and after conversion to Canadian dollars it becomes
quite expensive, $70 for one pair. So, I am looking for the same kind of
product, about 250m range, capable of digital and/or analog transmissions,
but cheaper and preferably closer to the Canadian border. If anybody has
ever dealt with other companies that offer similar products I would love to
hear from them. Thank you in advance for any info. TTYL
1998\03\06@023853
by
PeterAT&T
|
Hi,
Try http://www.dvp.com
It is cheaper and way better then linx.
Good luck,
Peter
-----Original Message-----
From: Herbert Graf <KILLspamhgrafspamBeGone
GEOCITIES.COM>
To: @spam@PICLISTSTOPspam
@spam@MITVMA.MIT.EDU <PICLISTspamBeGone
spamBeGoneMITVMA.MIT.EDU>
Date: Thursday, March 05, 1998 10:05 PM
Subject: [OT] Wireless RF Modules
> I am interested in purchasing wireless RF modules which will
connect a PIC
>with display to a PC eventually. If one doesn't know what I am talking
>about, the type of item I am interested in is offered by LINX technologies
>(http://www.linxtechnologies.com/). I would like to buy their units, but
>they are quite far away and after conversion to Canadian dollars it becomes
>quite expensive, $70 for one pair. So, I am looking for the same kind of
>product, about 250m range, capable of digital and/or analog transmissions,
>but cheaper and preferably closer to the Canadian border. If anybody has
>ever dealt with other companies that offer similar products I would love to
>hear from them. Thank you in advance for any info. TTYL
1998\03\06@125022
by
John A. Craft
Try the Virtual Wire from RF Monolithics
http://www.rfm.com
It uses a '84 to packetize the data.
jc.
> I am interested in purchasing wireless RF modules which will
connect a PIC
>with display to a PC eventually. If one doesn't know what I am talking
>about, the type of item I am interested in is offered by LINX technologies
>(http://www.linxtechnologies.com/). I would like to buy their units, but
>they are quite far away and after conversion to Canadian dollars it becomes
>quite expensive, $70 for one pair. So, I am looking for the same kind of
>product, about 250m range, capable of digital and/or analog transmissions,
>but cheaper and preferably closer to the Canadian border. If anybody has
>ever dealt with other companies that offer similar products I would love to
>hear from them. Thank you in advance for any info. TTYL
>
1998\03\06@125047
by
Craig Webb
|
Try Abacom Technologies 416-242-3120. They have a good faxback service at
416-242-3082. They distribute radio-tech products (http://www.radio-tech.co.uk) and
sell some comparative modules (and some cheaper though not as fast as the
new Linx HP series in terms of data rates for the price).
C. Webb
At 05:04 PM 3/5/98 -0500, you wrote:
> I am interested in purchasing wireless RF modules which will
connect a PIC
{Quote hidden}>with display to a PC eventually. If one doesn't know what I am talking
>about, the type of item I am interested in is offered by LINX technologies
>(
http://www.linxtechnologies.com/). I would like to buy their units, but
>they are quite far away and after conversion to Canadian dollars it becomes
>quite expensive, $70 for one pair. So, I am looking for the same kind of
>product, about 250m range, capable of digital and/or analog transmissions,
>but cheaper and preferably closer to the Canadian border. If anybody has
>ever dealt with other companies that offer similar products I would love to
>hear from them. Thank you in advance for any info. TTYL
>
>
1998\03\06@131724
by
Craig Lee
|
Try RF Monolithics. http://www.rfm.com Their transmitter is about $5US and
the receiver is about $7US.
They are in the 900 MHz range. However, you'll have to add a handful of
external components if you don't
buy their full system. Coils, caps, transistors, antenna, etc. I think the
baud rate can go to about 10K.
They do have a development kit with two transceiver boards, at89C251
microcontrollers,
and some level shifting to the PC serial port. I think the kit is about
$200US.
Give them a look see.
I need a bit more range than the DOC will allow without a license. So I'm
trying to find some spread spectrum
modules that are reasonably priced. The best price I can find so far is
about $750 each!
Later,
Craig
----------
> From: Herbert Graf <spamBeGonehgraf
GEOCITIES.COM>
> To: spam_OUTPICLISTSTOPspam
MITVMA.MIT.EDU
> Subject: [OT] Wireless RF Modules
> Date: Thursday, March 05, 1998 3:04 PM
>
>
> I am interested in purchasing wireless RF modules which will
connect a PIC
> with display to a PC eventually. If one doesn't know what I am talking
> about, the type of item I am interested in is offered by LINX
technologies
> (http://www.linxtechnologies.com/). I would like to buy their units, but
> they are quite far away and after conversion to Canadian dollars it
becomes
> quite expensive, $70 for one pair. So, I am looking for the same kind of
> product, about 250m range, capable of digital and/or analog
transmissions,
> but cheaper and preferably closer to the Canadian border. If anybody has
> ever dealt with other companies that offer similar products I would love
to
> hear from them. Thank you in advance for any info. TTYL
1998\03\06@135050
by
DREITEK
|
In a message dated 98-03-06 01:05:25 EST, you write:
<<
I am interested in purchasing wireless RF modules which will connect
a PIC
with display to a PC eventually. If one doesn't know what I am talking
about, the type of item I am interested in is offered by LINX technologies
(http://www.linxtechnologies.com/). I would like to buy their units, but
they are quite far away and after conversion to Canadian dollars it becomes
quite expensive, $70 for one pair. So, I am looking for the same kind of
product, about 250m range, capable of digital and/or analog transmissions,
but cheaper and preferably closer to the Canadian border. If anybody has
ever dealt with other companies that offer similar products I would love to
hear from them. Thank you in advance for any info. TTYL
>>
Hello,
I have never used them but the TECH flier for February listed modules capable
of data or audio for about $10 US each. They didn't give any other data on
them. I was thinking of getting a pair to play with.
TECH is a division of Radio Shack.
Dave Duley
1998\03\06@142610
by
Craig Lee
|
Interesting, because I have the Virtual Wire kit, and the processor is
the AT89C2051 from Atmel.
Did they change chips?
Craig
----------
{Quote hidden}> From: John A. Craft <
RemoveMEcraftspam
NCS-SSC.COM>
> To:
TakeThisOuTPICLISTspam
RemoveMEMITVMA.MIT.EDU
> Subject: Re: [OT] Wireless RF Modules
> Date: Friday, March 06, 1998 8:16 AM
>
>
> Try the Virtual Wire from RF Monolithics
>
>
>
http://www.rfm.com
>
> It uses a '84 to packetize the data.
>
> jc.
>
> > I am interested in purchasing wireless RF modules which will
> connect a PIC
> >with display to a PC eventually. If one doesn't know what I am talking
> >about, the type of item I am interested in is offered by LINX
technologies
> >(http://www.linxtechnologies.com/). I would like to buy their units, but
> >they are quite far away and after conversion to Canadian dollars it
becomes
> >quite expensive, $70 for one pair. So, I am looking for the same kind of
> >product, about 250m range, capable of digital and/or analog
transmissions,
> >but cheaper and preferably closer to the Canadian border. If anybody has
> >ever dealt with other companies that offer similar products I would love
to
> >hear from them. Thank you in advance for any info. TTYL
> >
1998\03\06@151003
by
ndie Ohtsji [4555]
Hi Craig,
Do you know what the range of the 900MHz devices can deliver.
I have a similar application which I wish to transmit at a distance of
about 800 meters (1/2 mile).
What is the DOC (now Industry Canada) and FCC limit without a license
in the 900MHz band?
Was also hoping to use the Linx HP series Tx & Rx modules.
-Randie (Also stuck in Canada and hoping to find a cheaper source
of Tx/Rx modules)
KILLspamrohtsjispam
spam_OUTglenayre.com
> From craigleeRemoveME
AGT.NET Fri Mar 6 10:22:08 1998
>
> Try RF Monolithics. http://www.rfm.com Their transmitter is about $5US and
> the receiver is about $7US.
> They are in the 900 MHz range. However, you'll have to add a handful of
> external components if you don't
> I need a bit more range than the DOC will allow without a license. So I'm
1998\03\06@180445
by
Ryan E. Stafford
I believe the unliciensed 900MHz band is restricted to 30mW xmitter output
in the USA. The actual frequency is also important, i.e. 915MHz. With a
3db antenna and line-of-sight you should be good for 1 mile. Remember
antenna placement, to escape ground effects it needs to be about 35 feet up.
Each country has differing requirements. The 2.4GHz band seems to be the
most liberial worldwide. Search for "FCC" and I'm sure you will find more
than you really wanted to know.
Have a nice day! :)
Ryan
***************************************************************************
I do not feel obliged to believe that the same God who has endowed us with
sense, reason, and intellect has intended us to forgo their use. - Galileo
***************************************************************************
1998\03\06@185408
by
Craig Lee
> Do you know what the range of the 900MHz devices can deliver.
> I have a similar application which I wish to transmit at a distance of
> about 800 meters (1/2 mile).
It's 902-928 Mhz.
>
> What is the DOC (now Industry Canada) and FCC limit without a license
> in the 900MHz band?
Because spread spectrum is frequency hopping, and it doesn't 'JAM' anything
due to it's transmission methodology, there is no license requirement. I
think
FCC part 47 mentions this.
{Quote hidden}
and
> > the receiver is about $7US.
> > They are in the 900 MHz range. However, you'll have to add a handful
of
> > external components if you don't
>
> > I need a bit more range than the DOC will allow without a license. So
I'm
1998\03\06@220716
by
Tom Mariner
> > What is the DOC (now Industry Canada) and FCC limit without a license
> > in the 900MHz band?
>
> Because spread spectrum is frequency hopping, and it doesn't 'JAM'
anything
> due to it's transmission methodology, there is no license requirement. I
> think
> FCC part 47 mentions this.
CRF 47 part 15.247 - I Watt, also Direct Sequence modulation. Antenna gain
limited to 6dB FCC. No license, but type acceptance for the tx. Under ideal
circumstances 20 miles is achievable reliably.
Tom
>
1998\03\06@220731
by
Tom Mariner
|
The frequency bands 902-928, 2.45GHz and 5.8 GHz, when used with certain
restrictions in two methods of spread spectrum modulation can have a
theoretical maximum of 1W US. The 2.4 and 5.8 GHz bands generally overlap
in Europe where the limit is half that and in Japan where the limit is
generally 100 mw. In addition, there are more restrictions on antenna gain
in Europe / Japan than in the US.
Tom
On Friday, March 06, 1998 4:13 PM, Ryan E. Stafford
[SMTP:TakeThisOuTryanRemoveME
@spam@BROWNINTL.COM] wrote:
> I believe the unliciensed 900MHz band is restricted to 30mW xmitter
output
> in the USA. The actual frequency is also important, i.e. 915MHz. With a
> 3db antenna and line-of-sight you should be good for 1 mile. Remember
> antenna placement, to escape ground effects it needs to be about 35 feet
up.
> Each country has differing requirements. The 2.4GHz band seems to be the
> most liberial worldwide. Search for "FCC" and I'm sure you will find
more
> than you really wanted to know.
>
> Have a nice day! :)
> Ryan
>
>
***************************************************************************
> I do not feel obliged to believe that the same God who has endowed us
with
> sense, reason, and intellect has intended us to forgo their use. -
Galileo
>
***************************************************************************
1998\03\06@221548
by
Sean Breheny
At 03:13 PM 3/6/98 -0600, you wrote:
>I believe the unliciensed 900MHz band is restricted to 30mW xmitter output
>in the USA. The actual frequency is also important, i.e. 915MHz. With a
>3db antenna and line-of-sight you should be good for 1 mile. Remember
>antenna placement, to escape ground effects it needs to be about 35 feet up.
<SNIP>
35 feet??! I'm not an expert on RF, but I do seem to remember that the
general rule of thumb for antennas is that the separation between them and
the ground should be some multiple of their wavelength, and for the 146 MHz
band, 6 feet is usually considered enough(if I remember correctly), so I
would hardly think that the minimum distance for 900MHz would be greater! I
could be wrong, just curious as to where 35 feet came from.
Sean
+--------------------------------+
| Sean Breheny |
| Amateur Radio Callsign: KA3YXM |
| Electrical Engineering Student |
+--------------------------------+
Fight injustice, please look at
http://homepages.enterprise.net/toolan/joanandrews/
Personal page: http://www.people.cornell.edu/pages/shb7
EraseMEshb7RemoveME
cornell.edu
Phone(USA): (607) 253-0315
1998\03\07@110414
by
Craig Webb
|
These modules aren't cheap ($1250 US each!), but if you want 20 miles (!),
try Freewave technologies. They run up to 115 kbps spread spectrum, and are
all set up for RS232.
http://www.freewave.com
Craig Webb
At 10:50 AM 3/6/98 -0800, you wrote:
{Quote hidden}>Hi Craig,
>
>Do you know what the range of the 900MHz devices can deliver.
>I have a similar application which I wish to transmit at a distance of
>about 800 meters (1/2 mile).
>
>What is the DOC (now Industry Canada) and FCC limit without a license
>in the 900MHz band?
>
>Was also hoping to use the Linx HP series Tx & Rx modules.
>
>-Randie (Also stuck in Canada and hoping to find a cheaper source
>of Tx/Rx modules)
>
>
spamrohtsji.....
spamglenayre.com
>
>
>> From
craigleespam_OUT
@spam@AGT.NET Fri Mar 6 10:22:08 1998
>>
>> Try RF Monolithics.
http://www.rfm.com Their transmitter is about $5US and
>> the receiver is about $7US.
>> They are in the 900 MHz range. However, you'll have to add a handful of
>> external components if you don't
>
>> I need a bit more range than the DOC will allow without a license. So I'm
>
>
1998\03\07@135833
by
Ranna M. V.
Dear Criag,
At 08:41 AM 3/6/98 -0700, you wrote:
>Try RF Monolithics. http://www.rfm.com Their transmitter is about $5US and
>the receiver is about $7US.
(sbip)
I am interseted in using them, Is this price in single piece units?
Thank you,
Ranna M. V.
Consultant Engineer
NEURON SYSTEMS
4/77, 13th Main Road, Tel/Fax:+91-80-529 6071
HAL 2nd Stage, Bangalore 560 008 E.Mail: .....rannaspam
.....pobox.com
INDIA
1998\03\07@161842
by
Craig Lee
Well the antenna is made in such a way that the groundplane is simulated
6 feet below the tip of the antenna.
----------
> From: Sean Breheny <shb7KILLspam
EraseMECORNELL.EDU>
> To: EraseMEPICLIST@spam@
@spam@MITVMA.MIT.EDU
> Subject: Re: [OT] Wireless RF Modules
> Date: Friday, March 06, 1998 8:14 PM
>
>
> At 03:13 PM 3/6/98 -0600, you wrote:
> >I believe the unliciensed 900MHz band is restricted to 30mW xmitter
output
> >in the USA. The actual frequency is also important, i.e. 915MHz. With
a
> >3db antenna and line-of-sight you should be good for 1 mile. Remember
> >antenna placement, to escape ground effects it needs to be about 35 feet
up.
>
> <SNIP>
>
> 35 feet??! I'm not an expert on RF, but I do seem to remember that the
> general rule of thumb for antennas is that the separation between them
and
> the ground should be some multiple of their wavelength, and for the 146
MHz
{Quote hidden}
1998\03\07@161845
by
Craig Lee
I think their price list is on the web site.
I believe the prices are based on production quantities, but you can
definetly get some samples.
Just check out their website.
Craig
----------
> From: Ranna M. V. <spamBeGonerannaRemoveME
EraseMEBLR.VSNL.NET.IN>
> To: RemoveMEPICLISTKILLspam
RemoveMEMITVMA.MIT.EDU
> Subject: Re: [OT] Wireless RF Modules
> Date: Friday, March 06, 1998 3:19 PM
>
>
> Dear Criag,
> At 08:41 AM 3/6/98 -0700, you wrote:
> >Try RF Monolithics. http://www.rfm.com Their transmitter is about $5US
and
{Quote hidden}> >the receiver is about $7US.
> (sbip)
>
> I am interseted in using them, Is this price in single piece units?
>
> Thank you,
> Ranna M. V.
> Consultant Engineer
>
> NEURON SYSTEMS
> 4/77, 13th Main Road, Tel/Fax:+91-80-529 6071
> HAL 2nd Stage, Bangalore 560 008 E.Mail:
TakeThisOuTranna
pobox.com
> INDIA
1998\03\08@043004
by
mats
|
Craig Lee wrote:
{Quote hidden}>
> I think their price list is on the web site.
>
> I believe the prices are based on production quantities, but you can
> definetly get some samples.
>
> Just check out their website.
>
> Craig
>
> ----------
> > From: Ranna M. V. <
spamBeGonerannaKILLspam
TakeThisOuTBLR.VSNL.NET.IN>
> > To:
EraseMEPICLIST.....
KILLspamMITVMA.MIT.EDU
> > Subject: Re: [OT] Wireless RF Modules
> > Date: Friday, March 06, 1998 3:19 PM
> >
> >
> > Dear Criag,
> > At 08:41 AM 3/6/98 -0700, you wrote:
> > >Try RF Monolithics.
http://www.rfm.com Their transmitter is about $5US
> and
> > >the receiver is about $7US.
> > (sbip)
> >
> > I am interseted in using them, Is this price in single piece units?
> >
> > Thank you,
> > Ranna M. V.
> > Consultant Engineer
> >
> > NEURON SYSTEMS
> > 4/77, 13th Main Road, Tel/Fax:+91-80-529 6071
> > HAL 2nd Stage, Bangalore 560 008 E.Mail:
spamranna
pobox.com
> > INDIA
this discussion hass deteriorated into discussions that have very little
substans.can anybody present a solution that makes a fast rf link
between to networkcards or a wireless modem.get real.instead of talking
about antenna spacing from ground.everyone with knowledge about rf
knows that trial and error togetherwith some knowledge is what yealds.
1998\03\08@154604
by
Craig Lee
I phhart in your general direction. (Monty Python - The Holy Grail)
I'm sorry folks, I just couldn't help myself (;>
Craig
----------
> From: s-33963 <matsSTOPspam
SOBER.PP.SE>
> To: PICLISTSTOPspam
KILLspamMITVMA.MIT.EDU
> Subject: Re: [OT] Wireless RF Modules
> Date: Sunday, March 08, 1998 2:28 AM
> this discussion hass deteriorated into discussions that have very little
> substans.can anybody present a solution that makes a fast rf link
> between to networkcards or a wireless modem.get real.instead of talking
> about antenna spacing from ground.everyone with knowledge about rf
> knows that trial and error togetherwith some knowledge is what yealds.
1998\03\09@123640
by
SHAWN ELLIS
> Craig Lee wrote:
> this discussion hass deteriorated into discussions that have very little
> substans.can anybody present a solution that makes a fast rf link
> between to networkcards or a wireless modem.get real.instead of talking
> about antenna spacing from ground.everyone with knowledge about rf
> knows that trial and error togetherwith some knowledge is what yealds.
>
Wow, your obviously a brain-child judgeing by your typing/spelling
skills. Mabye we should all bow down and ask your forgiveness for
wasting your time/screen space.
I, for one, don't know much about RF and I enjoyed that thread. If
you don't like it, just delete the message and keep your
poorly-composed, naysaying replies off MY screen!
No offense intended, of course....
'[OT] Wire capacity?'
1998\03\09@133339
by
Brian Scearce
I'm wiring up a small project, and I'm not sure what gauge of wire
to use. I couldn't find an answer in _The Art Of Electronics_.
I assume that 30 gauge wire is sufficient for carrying digital
signals, since that's what Wire-Wrap used.
Is 30ga sufficient for Vcc and ground wires, which might be carrying
20mA? How about motor supply wires which need to handle (in my
project) a couple of amps at 6 volts?
Answers to these particular questions appreciated; a formula or
rule of thumb to cover all situations would be even better.
Brian
'[OT] Wireless RF Modules'
1998\03\09@133342
by
Dan Larson
|
My $.02....
I have lately been attracted to mailing lists because of the lack of
flame wars, SPAM, and other bandwidth wasters. This is in sharp contrast
the the worsening condition of the Usenet groups.
IMHO off-topic threads are fine once in a while. They *can* be informative
and serve the general interests of all. Keep in mind the clause "in the
general interests of all". It is a key qualifier. A good laugh now and then,
or a side discussion of RF, IR, etc don't bother me at all. In fact, such
threads
give the list more life and more depth. Keep in mind also that it would be very
difficult to keep up with all of the many different topics if each was in
a separate list. If the list were strictly and completely on topic at all times,
it would also be dull and flat. When things degrade into a flame war the
mailing
list becomes no better than the aforementioned Usenet.
So far I have enjoyed this list immensely, and hope that I can continue to do
so!
The general intelligence level of this far exceeds any where else on the 'net.
No body who has posted to this list since I have subscribed has yet earned a
place in my "trash filter".
Dan
On Mon, 9 Mar 1998 11:27:14 EST5EDT, SHAWN ELLIS wrote:
{Quote hidden}>> Craig Lee wrote:
>> this discussion hass deteriorated into discussions that have very little
>> substans.can anybody present a solution that makes a fast rf link
>> between to networkcards or a wireless modem.get real.instead of talking
>> about antenna spacing from ground.everyone with knowledge about rf
>> knows that trial and error togetherwith some knowledge is what yealds.
>>
>Wow, your obviously a brain-child judgeing by your typing/spelling
>skills. Mabye we should all bow down and ask your forgiveness for
>wasting your time/screen space.
>
>I, for one, don't know much about RF and I enjoyed that thread. If
>you don't like it, just delete the message and keep your
>poorly-composed, naysaying replies off MY screen!
>
>No offense intended, of course....
>
*******************************
* Dan Larson *
* Software Engineer *
* Micro Control Company *
* email: @spam@dlarson.....
spamcitilink.com *
*******************************
1998\03\09@133345
by
mats
|
SHAWN ELLIS wrote:
>
> > Craig Lee wrote:
> > this discussion hass deteriorated into discussions that have very little
> > substans.can anybody present a solution that makes a fast rf link
> > between to networkcards or a wireless modem.get real.instead of talking
> > about antenna spacing from ground.everyone with knowledge about rf
> > knows that trial and error togetherwith some knowledge is what yealds.
> >
> Wow, your obviously a brain-child judgeing by your typing/spelling
> skills. Mabye we should all bow down and ask your forgiveness for
> wasting your time/screen space.
>
> I, for one, don't know much about RF and I enjoyed that thread. If
> you don't like it, just delete the message and keep your
> poorly-composed, naysaying replies off MY screen!
>
> No offense intended, of course....
as far as i know maybe is not spelled mabye so check your own faults
before you try to be smart.And furthermore if you were to write in
another language than your own like danish or polish,i just wonder
what it would look like.So at the same time you enrole for that basic
RF class you might to try and learn some other language.But you are
obviosly to busy with your typing class.keep up the good work.
Some day who knows you could even learn something exept being uptight.
Ever heard about a camel coming through a .........
'[OT] Wire capacity?'
1998\03\09@152043
by
Bob Fehrenbach
|
Brian Scearce <spambls.....
.....BEST.COM> wrote:
>I'm wiring up a small project, and I'm not sure what gauge of wire
>to use.
Brian,
Transformer people use rules of thumb like 500 circular mils/amp. This
takes into account the fact that the inside of a transformer will get
warmer than a wire in open air.
I think a reasonable estimate for your purposes would be something like
200 cir mils/amp.
For example, 30 gauge wire has a diameter of 10 mils giving an area
of 100 circular mils. The above rule says you should be able to pass
half an amp and not melt the wire.
Another quick rule of thumb: Subtracting 6 from the wire gauge
doubles the diameter, increasing the current capacity by 4.
AWG #24 has a diameter of 20 mils and should handle 2 amps.
In most cases it is not melting the wire that is the concern but the
voltage drop. I would be more inclined to size the wire using that
as the main consideration.
--
Bob Fehrenbach Wauwatosa, WI bfehrenb.....
execpc.com
1998\03\09@160006
by
William Chops Westfield
Transformer people use rules of thumb like 500 circular mils/amp. This
takes into account the fact that the inside of a transformer will get
warmer than a wire in open air.
I think a reasonable estimate for your purposes would be something like
200 cir mils/amp.
For example, 30 gauge wire has a diameter of 10 mils giving an area
of 100 circular mils. The above rule says you should be able to pass
half an amp and not melt the wire.
It takes MUCH more current than 500mA to melt a piece of 30g wire-wrap wire.
I just used my bencchtop supply to run 3A through a piece and it didn't even
glow or discolor due to heating.
That doesn't mean the rule of thumb is invalid, though. I'd expect the
first concern to be "excessive heating", just due to system issues. (and
there's a LOT of wire in a transformer, so even a little bit of heat/cm will
amount up. Secondly, you'd run into "don't melt the insulation", followed
by "don't melt the solder", with actual wire-melting WAY up there on the
list of concerns.
BillW
1998\03\09@180339
by
mjb
|
William Chops Westfield writes:
> It takes MUCH more current than 500mA to melt a piece of 30g wire-wrap wire.
> I just used my bencchtop supply to run 3A through a piece and it didn't even
> glow or discolor due to heating.
>
> That doesn't mean the rule of thumb is invalid, though. I'd expect the
> first concern to be "excessive heating", just due to system issues. (and
> there's a LOT of wire in a transformer, so even a little bit of heat/cm will
> amount up. Secondly, you'd run into "don't melt the insulation", followed
> by "don't melt the solder", with actual wire-melting WAY up there on the
> list of concerns.
According the the book "Reference Data for Engineers; Radio, Electronics,
Computer, and Communications, 7th ed." ISBN 0-672-21563-2 (A copy should
be on every electrical engineer's desk), the fusing current for 30 ga
copper wire is 10.2A (that is, the current at which the wire will melt).
the formula is as given I=K*d^(3/2), where d is the diameter in inches and
K is a constant that depends on the metal, aluminum K=7585, copper K=10244,
and so on.
The most important thing to be converned about is the wire (and junction)
resistance. a piece of another chart for annealed copper follows:
gauge ohms/1000ft at 20C
12 1.588
14 2.525
18 6.385
26 40.81
30 103.2
So for power supplies, you can use ohms's law to figure out the voltage drop,
but for CMOS, it is very easy to get in trouble, because CMOS can cause
extremely high current spikes, which is why decoupling capacitors are
obligatory. So the short answer is: for currents that pics can draw, 30ga
wire is fine. If you need a big slug of current delivered in a short time,
start looking to heavier wires.
Why do I qualify the above paragraph for power supplies? Remember, a wire
is not just a wire. It is also an inductor and part of a capacitor, so
you must be aware of that on any line you are doing switching (i.e. introducing
high frequency components.
Matt
-----------------------------
Matt Bennett |
KILLspammjbspam_OUT
hazmat.com |
http://www.hazmat.com/~mjb/ |
1998\03\10@114515
by
Bob Fehrenbach
|
From my original post:
> For example, 30 gauge wire has a diameter of 10 mils giving an area
> of 100 circular mils. The above rule says you should be able to pass
> half an amp and not melt the wire.
Note feeble and inadequate attempt at irony. The original poster
wanted to know if he could pass 20 ma through 30 ga wires.
William Chops Westfield <spam_OUTbillw
TakeThisOuTCISCO.COM> wrote:
>It takes MUCH more current than 500mA to melt a piece of 30g wire-wrap wire.
Agreed. The 200 cir mils/amp guideline was not an attempt to
estimate a catastrophic level but rather a quick way to determine
a reasonably safe wire size. In most cases, particularly prototypes etc,
100 cir mils/amp will do fine.
When you ran 3 amps through 30 ga wire (33 cir mils/amp)
did you melt the insulation? While testing wire wrap prototypes
without my glasses on (a clip lead on the wrong pin) I have had
wires glow for a while before they melted. I think the power supply
swung up over 5 amps.
--
Bob Fehrenbach Wauwatosa, WI .....bfehrenb.....
RemoveMEexecpc.com
1998\03\10@150853
by
Eric Smith
|
Bob Fehrenbach <spam_OUTbfehrenbTakeThisOuT
EraseMEEXECPC.COM> wrote:
> When you ran 3 amps through 30 ga wire (33 cir mils/amp)
> did you melt the insulation? While testing wire wrap prototypes
> without my glasses on (a clip lead on the wrong pin) I have had
> wires glow for a while before they melted. I think the power supply
> swung up over 5 amps.
[Note: these comments aren't particularly directed to Bob.]
This is why bench supplies have adjustable current limiting. You should
set the current limit to just above the expected power consumption, and
keep an eye on the meter or the CC (constant current) mode light.
For example, if you only expect the circuit to draw 500 mA, don't set the
current limit to 3 A.
I can't believe how many people try to debug prototypes using PC power
supplies and other such junk. The usual explanation given is "but they're
so cheap". Which only proves my point. How many chips (and whole
prototypes) can you afford to damage rather than buying a decent bench
supply?
Every time that CC comes on, the supply has possibly prevented damage.
I've lost count of how many times it's worked for me, but I know that I'd
have blown up a few expensive boards if I didn't have it.
Cheers,
Eric
1998\03\10@163835
by
William Chops Westfield
> When you ran 3 amps through 30 ga wire (33 cir mils/amp)
> did you melt the insulation?
(Hmm. Have to retry on a piece of wire that has insulation. fiddle,
fiddle.)
No melted insulation. "Slightly" warm to the touch (at 3A.)
>This is why bench supplies have adjustable current limiting.
Yeah. I think I bought my benchtop supply primarilly for tweaking assorted
types of rechargable batteries, but it has turned out to be quite a useful
piece of test gear in a number of unexpected areas.
For example, if you only expect the circuit to draw 500 mA, don't
set the current limit to 3 A.
But this is one I hadn't thought of! Don't forget that any time you go into
current limit, you voltage is going to drop and (probably) do all sorts of
weird things to your digital logic, so you have to start over...
BillW
'One-wire routines of the CCS C compiler'
1998\03\16@065011
by
wterreb
Hi
Anybody out there using the CCS one-wire routines? I tried
unsuccesfully this weekend to use the example routines that came
with the compiler to interface to the Dallas DS1820 one-wire digital
thermometer and I was wondering if anybody else have had success
doing this?
Rgds
Werner
1998\03\16@072829
by
wterreb
|
{Quote hidden}> Date: Mon, 16 Mar 1998 08:52:15 -0800
> From: WF AUTOMACAO <
EraseMEwfspamBeGone
KILLspamambiente.com.br>
> Organization: WF AUTOMACAO
> To:
RemoveMEwterrebspamBeGone
spamplessey.co.za
> Subject: Re: One-wire routines of the CCS C compiler
> Werner Terreblanche wrote:
> >
> > Hi
> >
> > Anybody out there using the CCS one-wire routines? I tried
> > unsuccesfully this weekend to use the example routines that came
> > with the compiler to interface to the Dallas DS1820 one-wire digital
> > thermometer and I was wondering if anybody else have had success
> > doing this?
> >
> > Rgds
> > Werner
>
> Did you contact CCS?
Not yet. I was rather hoping to find some other user of the
compiler here on the Piclist who has used these routines before. It
does not seem a big enough deal to bother CCS with something which
is most probably a programming fault on my side. Mind you, reading
my own message again, it looks as if I was trying to say that the CCS
routines are not working. This is actually not what I meant....
What I meant to say was that I was unsuccessfull in implementing
their routines in trying to use it in my own application to
interface to a DS1820. It does not mean that their routines are
incorrect and I feel that it is only fair that I correct myself
here. I'm actually very happy with the CCS compiler and have used it
successfully in a number of projects.
--
Werner Terreblanche users.iafrica.com/w/we/wernerte/index.htm
@spam@wterrebspam
plessey.co.za (work) OR TakeThisOuTwernerteKILLspam
@spam@iafrica.com (home)
Plessey SA, PO Box 30451,Tokai 7966, Cape Town, South Africa
or at home : Suite 251, PostNet X5061, Stellenbosch, 7599
Tel +27 21 7102251 Fax +27 21 7102886 Home +27 21 8523249
------------------------------------------------------------
1998\03\17@034921
by
wterreb
>
> Anybody out there using the CCS one-wire routines? I tried
> unsuccesfully this weekend to use the example routines that came
> with the compiler to interface to the Dallas DS1820 one-wire digital
> thermometer and I was wondering if anybody else have had success
> doing this?
I played with this again last night and got it working. It was my
fault. I forgot to put a 4K7 pull-up resistor on the one-wire input
line. The examples given by CCS works well and I am now able to
read the DS1820 without problems. Thanks to those of you that
offered advice.
Rgds
Werner
1998\03\17@170512
by
John Sanderson
|
Hello Werner & other PIC.ers,
Could be CCS are having a hard time keeping up at the moment.
I've been implementing the ex_pbusm.c routine to hang a bunch of
'F84s onto a one-wire bus, using the B0 pin as serial send/serial
receive (receive under isr.).
After hours of `after hours' grinding my brain against inscrutable code
(for me, anyway) I finally had to swallow my pride & call for help
- which they promptly gave me.
Turns out there really was a bug or two in the source, and I've now
got a revised edition from them.
Haven't emerged from `Monday fire-fighting mode' yet
to run it.
..
To answer your question "can you help with DS1820 routine?", well......
not exactly, er.. but..... please be aware that the CCS routines as
published with the docs. aren't necessarily infallible.
However, the guys there have not dragged their fingers in coming up
with answers, and I thank them for that.
Best regards, John
..
email from John Sanderson / JS Controls, Boksburg, RSA
Manufacturer & purveyor of laboratory force testing apparatus
and related products and services.
Tel/fax: Johannesburg 893 4154 Cellphone 082 453 4815
'PIC and 1-Wire'
1998\06\30@110216
by
Ake Hedman
part 0 1071 bytes
I recently got my hands on the DS-1820 temperature sensor from Dallas that use there 1-Wire buss and got very excited by the specs for the 1-Wire buss. Many devices on the buss, cheap cabling, easy to make very cheap nodes.
In my opinion the PIC fits perfectly with the q-wire bus also as a cheap slave nod when one need to perform some more complex operation. Perfect for remote measurement and control applications.
I know how to make code to control the 1-wire buss in master mode but does anybody have any experience in setting up a PIC as a slave-node?
Regards
/Ake
======================================================================
Ake Hedman - Soft.Dev.Eng.
Eurosource, Gruvbyn 415A, S-820 50 LOOS, SWEDEN
Phone: +46 657 413422 Fax: +46 657 10612
WEB: http://www.eurosource.se
Carpe diem quam minimum credula postero
======================================================================
Attachment converted: wonderland:Ake L Hedman.vcf (TEXT/CSOm) (0000DD04)
'DALLAS 1-wire interface with PIC and/or BS2'
1998\08\08@095234
by
AlbertGoodwill
Hi Everyone,
I'm using for PIC and BS2 and looking for a sample circuit and code to explain h
ow to use Dallas 1-wire communication interface.
I appreciate any help ...
Thanks
.....albertgoodwillRemoveME
geocities.com
1998\08\08@112919
by
Michael Hagberg
1998\08\08@121941
by
Ake Hedman
Check out Pavel Korensky's "Dallas TouchMemory routines" for nice code.
I am working on some additions to that code ( ROM- ALARM- Search ) and some
code that implement the 1-wire i/f with a PIC device as a slave.
I will post a link on this list when its stable enough to share.
/Ake
> {Original Message removed}
1998\08\10@014959
by
Philippe
At 06:40 08/08/98 -0700, you wrote:
>I'm using for PIC and BS2 and looking for a sample circuit and code to
explain >how to use Dallas 1-wire communication interface.
You will find:
- code examples for 16C84,
- UMPS project file with DS1820
- a full simulation with 1-Wire protocol device DS1820 or DS1990,
with UMPS project examples:
http://www.sistudio.com/umps
Regards,
Philippe.
+--------------------------------------------------------+
| Virtual Micro Design |
| Technopole Izarbel, |
| 64210 BIDART |
| FRANCE |
| |
| Phone: ++33 559.438.458 Fax: ++33 559.438.401 |
| |
| E-Mail: KILLspamp.techer
TakeThisOuTidls.izarbel.tm.fr |
| URL: http://www.sistudio.com/umps |
+--------------------------------------------------------+
'Body worn transmittor/wireless/alarm if wearer fal'
1998\08\14@163815
by
White Horse Design
|
Can anyone help with this (UK based) ??
At 20:57 14/08/98 +0100, you wrote:
{Quote hidden}>Hello Adrian,
>
>Not sure whether you can help me as this is not exactly your line
>(but you might know 'a man who can').
>
>I'm looking for a small body worn transmittor which will send a signal
>to a receiver which will sound/flash an alarm if the wearer falls over.
>
>The person in need is a young lady with Learning Disabilities and
>epilepsy - so the Lifeline style phones won't help as she may well not
>be able to press the pendant/clip on button.
>
>She lives with her parents on a small holding and likes to go see the
>animals - parents don't like having to keep tabs as it doesn't give her
>any independance.
>
>I'm sure such things exist but can't find any references as most people
>are on the phone systems.
>
>Sorry to trouble you, but I thought you may be able to point me in the
>right direction.
You need to contact the BCS (British Computer Society) Disability group. An
ex-colleague of mine, Ruben Ashkenazy designed an LCD based cpu system with
a buzzer to remind patients to take their medication.
I'll look out their number and contact details.
Regards
Adrian
---
WWW WWW Adrian Gothard
WWW WW WWW White Horse Design
WWWWWWWWWW +44-385-970009 (Mobile/SMS), +44-118-962-8913/4 (voice/fax)
WWWW WWWW TakeThisOuTwhd
spam_OUTzetnet.co.uk, http://www.users.zetnet.co.uk/whd
---
Developers of GPS satellite-based tracking systems for vehicles/helicopters
'Body worn transmitter/wireless/alarm if wearer fal'
1998\08\14@171316
by
Montaigne, Mike
|
Would those imported $20. wireless doorbells work?
The main problem is false triggering. Maybe others here can
give some suggestions - my first thought is a mercury switch
that feeds some simple logic (555/PIC?) Set the switch so it
is made when vertical or upside down. If the switch is made for a long
time,
the person is in trouble. If the switch is making intermittently, the
person is walking,
moving etc. and that's OK. The transmitter is small enough - could be
clipped to
a belt. I have wired the receivers to a relay for other projects - finding
a logic level
signal in the receiver is fairly easy with a scope. You could use this
signal
if the alarm was not loud enough or you wanted to trigger a phone
dialer, louder alarm, ect. Another company called Linear makes longer
range transmitters/receivers - used for wireless security for example.
Mike
{Quote hidden}> ----------
> From: White Horse Design[SMTP:
RemoveMEwhdspam
STOPspamZETNET.CO.UK]
> Sent: Friday, August 14, 1998 4:35 PM
> To:
.....PICLISTEraseME
MITVMA.MIT.EDU
> Subject: Body worn transmittor/wireless/alarm if wearer falls over
> project
>
> Can anyone help with this (UK based) ??
>
> At 20:57 14/08/98 +0100, you wrote:
> >Hello Adrian,
> >
> >Not sure whether you can help me as this is not exactly your line
> >(but you might know 'a man who can').
> >
> >I'm looking for a small body worn transmittor which will send a signal
> >to a receiver which will sound/flash an alarm if the wearer falls over.
> >
> >The person in need is a young lady with Learning Disabilities and
> >epilepsy - so the Lifeline style phones won't help as she may well not
> >be able to press the pendant/clip on button.
> >
> >She lives with her parents on a small holding and likes to go see the
> >animals - parents don't like having to keep tabs as it doesn't give her
> >any independance.
> >
> >I'm sure such things exist but can't find any references as most people
> >are on the phone systems.
> >
> >Sorry to trouble you, but I thought you may be able to point me in the
> >right direction.
>
> You need to contact the BCS (British Computer Society) Disability group.
> An
> ex-colleague of mine, Ruben Ashkenazy designed an LCD based cpu system
> with
> a buzzer to remind patients to take their medication.
>
> I'll look out their number and contact details.
>
> Regards
>
> Adrian
> ---
> WWW WWW Adrian Gothard
> WWW WW WWW White Horse Design
> WWWWWWWWWW +44-385-970009 (Mobile/SMS), +44-118-962-8913/4 (voice/fax)
> WWWW WWWW
spamBeGonewhd
RemoveMEzetnet.co.uk, http://www.users.zetnet.co.uk/whd
> ---
> Developers of GPS satellite-based tracking systems for
> vehicles/helicopters
>
'Body worn transmittor/wireless/alarm if wearer fal'
1998\08\14@223102
by
Peter Grey
|
At 09:35 PM 14/08/98 +0100, you wrote:
Adrian,
I have such a system which is used in industry and operates at 77MHz. I do
not believe this is suitable for your area. However, I am currently
developing the same product to run at 916MHz and 433MHz. It will also be a
lot cheaper than the industrial system where a lot of different features are
required. It basically is a person down alarm with duress switch. It is
received at a base station or receiver and an alarm is sounded if the person
goes down or the duress switch is pressed. If more than one person is to be
monitored and over a greater area than about 100 metres radius then it will
need a processor based base station.
If you need further details email me privately.
All the best,
Peter Grey
Neosystems Australia
{Quote hidden}>Can anyone help with this (UK based) ??
>
>At 20:57 14/08/98 +0100, you wrote:
>>Hello Adrian,
>>
>>Not sure whether you can help me as this is not exactly your line
>>(but you might know 'a man who can').
>>
>>I'm looking for a small body worn transmittor which will send a signal
>>to a receiver which will sound/flash an alarm if the wearer falls over.
>>
>>The person in need is a young lady with Learning Disabilities and
>>epilepsy - so the Lifeline style phones won't help as she may well not
>>be able to press the pendant/clip on button.
>>
>>She lives with her parents on a small holding and likes to go see the
>>animals - parents don't like having to keep tabs as it doesn't give her
>>any independance.
>>
>>I'm sure such things exist but can't find any references as most people
>>are on the phone systems.
>>
>>Sorry to trouble you, but I thought you may be able to point me in the
>>right direction.
>
>You need to contact the BCS (British Computer Society) Disability group. An
>ex-colleague of mine, Ruben Ashkenazy designed an LCD based cpu system with
>a buzzer to remind patients to take their medication.
>
>I'll look out their number and contact details.
>
>Regards
>
>Adrian
>---
>WWW WWW Adrian Gothard
>WWW WW WWW White Horse Design
>WWWWWWWWWW +44-385-970009 (Mobile/SMS), +44-118-962-8913/4 (voice/fax)
>WWWW WWWW
.....whdEraseME
zetnet.co.uk, http://www.users.zetnet.co.uk/whd
>---
>Developers of GPS satellite-based tracking systems for vehicles/helicopters
>
>
'1-wire on PIC'
1998\08\18@112129
by
Ake Hedman
|
Hi Pic'ers,
I am working on a project where I try to use a PIC as a slave device on a
1-wire bus. Most of the stuff is trivial to implement but the ROM SEARCH and
ALARM SEARCH functions is a bit hard to code efficiently.
For those of you that don't know the 1-wire protocol I will try to explain
the behavior.
All 1-Wire devices have 64-bit serial number ( actually it consist of a
family code ( 1-byte, serial number 6 bytes and a crc 1-byte) but for this
discussion its enough to think of all the 64 bits as a serial number.
A rom search and an Alarm Search works in the same way. The function byte is
sent out.
1.) All devices respond with there LSB bit.
2.) The master does another read and all devices on the bus respond with
complement of there LSB bit.
so if we have
00 - there are devices on the bus with conflicting bits in this position
01 - all devices on the bus have a 0 in this bit position.
10 - all devices have a 1 in this bit position
11 - there are no devices on the bus.
so the master writes out a bit ( 0/1 ) selecting devices it is interested of
and continue until all bits have been tested.
This is repeated until all devices have been found.
A read on the bus is iniated by a short low pulse > 1us from the master
after which the slave puts out its bit.
A write on the bus works the same way except for a 15 us max initially low
pulse.
Both a read and a write cycle is about 60 us long.
So i have my device address in 8 RAM positions. Have received a SEARCH ROM
command.
What is the most efficient way to do this on a PIC.
/Ake
'[STAMPS] DALLAS 1-wire interface with PIC and/or B'
1998\08\18@121742
by
Auron, Chris J
'RS-232 <-> 1-Wire i/f'
1998\08\18@125311
by
Ake Hedman
|
I have noted that there are a lot of people on this list that use the
DS-1820 for temperature measurements. So do I. Many times there is a need to
use several DS-1820 in the same application and I needed code to do the FIND
FIRST and ALARM FIND FIRST commands on a PIC device so I coded it.
The app is in alpa stage but can be used to communicate with devices on a
1-wire bus using serial communication and high level commands. The most
interesting aspect of the code is probably the FIND FIRST and ALARM FIND
FIRST commands.
Anyway if someone is interested its available on my company internal server
at http://neon.eurosource.se/pic/default.htm ( SLOOOOW )
Please keep in mind that this is my first PIC project and that the code is
of course NOT the most beautiful I have created.
Regards
/Ake
======================================================================
Ake Hedman - Soft.Dev.Eng.
Eurosource, Gruvbyn 415A, S-820 50 LOOS, SWEDEN
Phone: +46 657 413422 Fax: +46 657 10612
WEB: http://www.eurosource.se
Carpe diem quam minimum credula postero
======================================================================
'RS-232 <-> 1-Wire i/f and SmartTemp routines'
1998\08\18@164820
by
Ake Hedman
Sorry Folks,
I forgot to add the Microchip project file to the RS-232 <-> 1-Wire i/f. Now
its done so if you need it please download again. http://neon.eurosource.se
Also I have put up the code for another project I made. Its the code for a
PIC that is used to control a heater in my house. It is really not very
interesting but it contains code to interface a PIC to the SmartTemp sensor
which maybe can be useful for someone.
Regards
/Ake
======================================================================
Ake Hedman - Soft.Dev.Eng.
Eurosource, Gruvbyn 415A, S-820 50 LOOS, SWEDEN
Phone: +46 657 413422 Fax: +46 657 10612
WEB: http://www.eurosource.se
Carpe diem quam minimum credula postero
======================================================================
1998\08\24@102834
by
Ake Hedman, Eurosource
For all that have had problems to download the 1-Wire/SmartTemp source I
have moved the stuff to a more reliable ( hopefully ) and faster server. The
address is http://zeus.brattberg.se Check the Esc section.
Regards
/Ake
======================================================================
Ake Hedman - Soft.Dev.Eng.
Eurosource, Gruvbyn 415A, S-820 50 LOOS, SWEDEN
Phone: +46 657 413422 Fax: +46 657 10612
WEB: http://www.eurosource.se
Carpe diem quam minimum credula postero
======================================================================
'Body worn transmittor/wireless/alarm if wearer fal'
1998\08\24@191704
by
Mark Hellman
|
We can help, this ties in nicely with one of our current projects. Please
send private mail to: spammarkKILLspam
KILLspamnavmasters.com
Have a GREAT day,
Mark
At 09:35 PM 8/14/98 +0100, you wrote:
{Quote hidden}>Can anyone help with this (UK based) ??
>
>At 20:57 14/08/98 +0100, you wrote:
>>Hello Adrian,
>>
>>Not sure whether you can help me as this is not exactly your line
>>(but you might know 'a man who can').
>>
>>I'm looking for a small body worn transmittor which will send a signal
>>to a receiver which will sound/flash an alarm if the wearer falls over.
>>
>>The person in need is a young lady with Learning Disabilities and
>>epilepsy - so the Lifeline style phones won't help as she may well not
>>be able to press the pendant/clip on button.
>>
>>She lives with her parents on a small holding and likes to go see the
>>animals - parents don't like having to keep tabs as it doesn't give her
>>any independance.
>>
>>I'm sure such things exist but can't find any references as most people
>>are on the phone systems.
>>
>>Sorry to trouble you, but I thought you may be able to point me in the
>>right direction.
>
>You need to contact the BCS (British Computer Society) Disability group. An
>ex-colleague of mine, Ruben Ashkenazy designed an LCD based cpu system with
>a buzzer to remind patients to take their medication.
>
>I'll look out their number and contact details.
>
>Regards
>
>Adrian
>---
>WWW WWW Adrian Gothard
>WWW WW WWW White Horse Design
>WWWWWWWWWW +44-385-970009 (Mobile/SMS), +44-118-962-8913/4 (voice/fax)
>WWWW WWWW
spamwhdspam_OUT
zetnet.co.uk, http://www.users.zetnet.co.uk/whd
>---
>Developers of GPS satellite-based tracking systems for vehicles/helicopters
>
/////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
/ÊÊ Nav Masters - Affordable GPS Vehicle Tracking Systems
/ÊÊ <http://navmasters.com/>http://navmasters.comÊÊÊÊ ÊÊ 303-467-1718
/ÊÊ Complete Tracking Solutions start at $199, Covert $499
/ÊÊ MicroControllerEngineersExtraordinair-You want it-We build it
/////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
'[OT?] Wireless home automation with PIC'
1998\09\18@043832
by
Mercy jean-marc
I am interested in building, for myself, a home automation
system with multiple emitters/receivers. The commercially
available module, in France, do not offer the required
flexibility (number of channels for instance) for my
applications. I am looking for schematics of emitters and
receivers, preferably FM modulation but AM could be good
enough. The bands I am looking at are 224 and 433 MHz. Any
help will be welcome.
The processing on this network would be done with PICs.
1998\09\18@055627
by
Richard DOLLET
Why not using your electrical installation instead??
Anyway, keep us informed, I'm interrested too.
Richard.
At 10:25 18/09/98 +0200, you wrote:
{Quote hidden}>I am interested in building, for myself, a home automation
>system with multiple emitters/receivers. The commercially
>available module, in France, do not offer the required
>flexibility (number of channels for instance) for my
>applications. I am looking for schematics of emitters and
>receivers, preferably FM modulation but AM could be good
>enough. The bands I am looking at are 224 and 433 MHz. Any
>help will be welcome.
>The processing on this network would be done with PICs.
>
'[OT] Wire Twister'
1998\11\19@202139
by
Tony Nixon
Hi all,
Just thought I'd pass this along as a help snippet for those that get
peeved while twisting wire ends ready for soldering. I've been using
this method for a while and it helps.
Begin stripping the insulation from the wire but do not take it all the
way off.
Grap the insulation by the thumb and forefinger and give a twist.
You will end up with a bee-yootiful twisted wire end ready to solder.
Trim off the excess wire and insulation.
--
Best regards
Tony
Multimedia 16F84 Beginners PIC Tools.
http://www.picnpoke.com
Email STOPspampicnpokespam_OUT
spamBeGonecdi.com.au
1998\11\19@211159
by
Reginald Neale
>Just thought I'd pass this along as a help snippet for those that get
>peeved while twisting wire ends ready for soldering. I've been using
>this method for a while and it helps.
>
>Begin stripping the insulation from the wire but do not take it all the
>way off.
>
>Grap the insulation by the thumb and forefinger and give a twist.
>
>You will end up with a bee-yootiful twisted wire end ready to solder.
>
>Trim off the excess wire and insulation.
>
Tony:
This additional tip may be a no-brainer, but your trick also works great
when you have a single stranded wire that you want to tin the end of. Just
don't pull the insulation slug all the way off, and it'll keep all those
wayward strands neatly together while you apply solder.
Reg Neale
1998\11\19@231013
by
paulb
|
Tony Nixon wrote:
> Begin stripping the insulation from the wire but do not take it all
> the way off.
> Grap the insulation by the thumb and forefinger and give a twist.
> You will end up with a bee-yootiful twisted wire end ready to solder.
That's certainly an old trick of mine, best performed with one of
those "auto" wire-strippers with blades that close with various sized
notches. That's the best I can describe them.
As I tin all wire tips, I now tend to strip about 1mm of insulation,
tin the projecting part to bond the strands together, then grab that tip
with the pliers, pull the insulation back, twist the bare part with the
pliers then tin the twisted bare part. As it is tinned, the softened
insulation "creeps" back over the bare, tinned wire, usually leaving a
suitable length still exposed for the connection.
The significance of this method is that the stiffened, tinned area
extends well under the insulation. If the tinning stops at the
insulation, you have the tinned part stiffened by the solder, the un-
tinned part stiffened by the insulation, and the wire of course breaks
at the junction between the two.
--
Cheers,
Paul B.
1998\11\20@062809
by
Russell McMahon
|
A warning about this practice.
If a wire end is being used in a clamp or screw type terminal block
it should NOT be tinned like this. In fact, for mains terminations,
under some wiring codes (certainly those in force in our country) it
is specifically forbidden.
There is a good reason for this.
When first tinned the wire is roundish and solid, with the strands
interspersed by solder which has wicked in between them. When clamped
the clamping force is taken up by the solder/wire bundle. With time
the solder will allow the wire end to "creep" and the termination
will loosen. This may lead to a bad joint, a high resistance joint or
a broken joint. If there is significant current flowing the heat
generated may be destructive.
An allowed practice is to tin the tip only but leave the bulk of
wires away from the tip bare -the clamping takes place on the bare
wires.
Given all the above, I have tinned and clamped wires for many (many,
many, ...) years using both screw and rising clamp type terminal
blocks with no failures that I am aware of due to the above. However,
....
From: Paul B. Webster VK2BZC <spam_OUTpaulb
spamBeGonemidcoast.com.au>
>Tony Nixon wrote:
>
>> Begin stripping the insulation from the wire but do not take it
all
>> the way off.
>
>> Grap the insulation by the thumb and forefinger and give a twist.
>
>> You will end up with a bee-yootiful twisted wire end ready to
solder.
>
> That's certainly an old trick of mine, best performed with one of
>those "auto" wire-strippers with blades that close with various
sized
>notches. That's the best I can describe them.
>
> As I tin all wire tips, I now tend to strip about 1mm of
insulation,
>tin the projecting part to bond the strands together, then grab that
tip
>with the pliers, pull the insulation back, twist the bare part with
the
>pliers then tin the twisted bare part. As it is tinned, the
softened
>insulation "creeps" back over the bare, tinned wire, usually leaving
a
>suitable length still exposed for the connection.
>
> The significance of this method is that the stiffened, tinned area
>extends well under the insulation. If the tinning stops at the
>insulation, you have the tinned part stiffened by the solder, the
un-
>tinned part stiffened by the insulation, and the wire of course
breaks
>at the junction between the two.
>--
> Cheers,
> Paul B.
>
1998\11\20@120451
by
John Payson
|
| As I tin all wire tips, I now tend to strip about 1mm of insulation,
|tin the projecting part to bond the strands together, then grab that tip
|with the pliers, pull the insulation back, twist the bare part with the
|pliers then tin the twisted bare part. As it is tinned, the softened
|insulation "creeps" back over the bare, tinned wire, usually leaving a
|suitable length still exposed for the connection.
I've found that different types of insulation seem to behave
differently when heated; sometimes even different colored wires
within the same cable may be different.
In one project which used lots of 5-wire solid-copper cable, it
turned out that all but one of the wires' insulation would tend
to "shrink back" away from the end of the wire when the wire was
heated. It turned out that--since cutting the wire would expose
a tiny bit of copper--that touching the copper with the iron would
cause the insulation to creep back exposing just the right amount
of copper. Anyone else ever done anything like that?
1998\11\21@074146
by
Mark Willis
|
Russell McMahon wrote:
>
> A warning about this practice.
> <snipped>
> An allowed practice is to tin the tip only but leave the bulk of
> wires away from the tip bare -the clamping takes place on the bare
> wires.
It's good practice to go through the electrical box & do maintenance
checkups every now & then anyways. I cannot count the number of times
I've caught clamped wires corroding, causing heat problems (My
preference? Solder 'em, and then carefully re-tighten the clamp
periodically, OR, use a good anti-corrosive grease but that's usually
really nasty to mess with. Don't always get to go with my preference,
though...) Seattle's really rainy tonight (Heavy rain & wind storms,
think I'll start building an Ark tomorrow if this keeps up!) Had a
2-second power outage earlier & numerous glitches, glad I am not a power
or phone lineman tonight...
Also, those aluminum wires need anti-corrosion treatment every now &
then; I've caught a few heat problems on older houses by glancing at
their breaker box, by all means hire an electrician if you don't do
mains work enough, but I figure if my blind friend Mary could re-wire
her house (With the right tools and some care!), anyone on the PIC list
can do it. (Sometimes it's just quicker to hire someone, though. None
of us get over-busy, right!?)
Mark, EraseMEmwillis
KILLspamnwlink.com
1998\11\21@205323
by
Mark A Moss
|
On Fri, 20 Nov 1998 15:07:26 +1000 "Paul B. Webster VK2BZC"
<EraseMEpaulbRemoveME
midcoast.com.au> writes:
>
> The significance of this method is that the stiffened, tinned area
>extends well under the insulation. If the tinning stops at the
>insulation, you have the tinned part stiffened by the solder, the un-
>tinned part stiffened by the insulation, and the wire of course
>breaks
>at the junction between the two.
>--
> Cheers,
> Paul B.
>
If you use flux, allow the flux to wick down inside the insulations
slightly. The flux helps draw the molten solder down inside the
insulation, achieving the same result. You should probably use a flux
that won't tend to cause corrosion.
BTW, when a Pace came to my company to give solder classes, he told the
students not to do this. The reason was that, although the wire is more
likely to break, at least it breaks outside the insulation where trouble
shooting is easier. My belief is that it's best not to have the wire
break in the first place.
Mark Moss
Amateur Radio Operator, Technician, and General Tinkerer
___________________________________________________________________
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Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
1998\11\22@181703
by
Morgan Olsson
|
At 01:33 1998-11-22 +0000, Mark Moss wrote:
-snip-
> The flux helps draw the molten solder down inside the
>insulation, achieving the same result. You should probably use a flux
>that won't tend to cause corrosion.
>
>BTW, when a Pace came to my company to give solder classes, he told the
>students not to do this. The reason was that, although the wire is more
>likely to break, at least it breaks outside the insulation where trouble
>shooting is easier. My belief is that it's best not to have the wire
>break in the first place.
Yes, but in my experience cables break much *less* when they are tinned by
this method up a mm or two inside the insulation.
Because the insulation makes the bend much smoother.
That is, for small movements like vibration etc.
For large wire movements like when the wire is pulled around making sharp
bends directly at the solder joint then instead the tinned stiff wire will
break earlier than an untinned flexible multistrand joint. But of course i
always clamp such cables!
As always, adjust your methods to the application :)
/Morgan
Morgan Olsson ph +46(0)414 70741
MORGANS REGLERTEKNIK fax +46(0)414 70331
H€LLEKS (in A-Z letters: "HALLEKAS")
SE-277 35 KIVIK, SWEDEN .....mrt
spam_OUTiname.com
___________________________________________________________
1998\11\23@222714
by
Russell McMahon
|
**** Professional wiring standards flame shields up ****
A truly horrible method which, none-the-less seems to work, when
terminating wires in terminal blocks is as follows. I almost blush to
promulgate this as I'm SURE that all the experts will explain why you
shouldn't do it, but judge for yourself whether it is useful.
At one stage I did some work on taxi computers installed in cars.
These were wired in with screw down terminal blocks (no rising clamps
here!). There were 100+ computers involved and they were about 4+
years old so they represented a reasonable sample. Some person
unknown had used the following method to terminate the wires on SOME
of the computers. These "seemed" to have a lower incidence of broken
wires over a period for several years while I was involved with them.
I didn't, unfortunately, do a methodical tally on faults versus
termination method but was convinced enough that, in due course, I
adopted the method on all computers in this system that I dealt with.
i Strip wire as usual. Tin or not etc as desired.
XXXXX-----------
ii Double the stripped end of the wire over onto the insulated
portion.
(or the bare wire could be longer and wound around the insulated
end in a short spiral.
___ _
XXXXXI or XXXXX\\\\\XI
iii Clamp with screw or clamp onto combined insulation and wire.
|
_\/_
XXXXXI
I have discussed this method with a competent experienced friend and
we concluded that
i It couldn't improve things.
ii Various reasons why it would work if in fact it was found that
it did :-)
The method has its limitations.
The wire end should be under the screw/clamp or 180 degrees around
from it.
The insulation is cratered by the screw end.
Wiring inspectors and competent friends will look askance at you.
...................
**** Professional wiring standards flame shields still up :-) ****
{Original Message removed}
1998\11\24@180147
by
Brian Striggow
I like this idea a lot. I plan to use it whenever I know noone will
ever see the work.
> i Strip wire as usual. Tin or not etc as desired.
>
> ii Double the stripped end of the wire over onto the insulated
> portion.
> (or the bare wire could be longer and wound around the insulated
> end in a short spiral.
> ___ _
> XXXXXI or XXXXX\\\\\XI
>
> iii Clamp with screw or clamp onto combined insulation and wire.
> |
> _\/_
> XXXXXI
'[OT] Wire Twisters Anonymous'
1998\11\25@063227
by
paulb
|
Brian Striggow wrote:
> I like this idea a lot. I plan to use it whenever I know noone will
> ever see the work.
I have seen a variant used whereby the end is not stripped but the
screw is used to crush the insulation. On stranded wire the effect is a
little indeterminate (IMHO), but on single-core wire, it is generally
quite practical to both force the screw through to the conductor and the
conductor through to the opposite wall of the ferrule. If this happens,
there will be no loosening due to heat softening the insulation.
This is a rough-and-ready variant of IDC (Insulation Displacement
Connection) which has it seems, been accepted in mains wiring practice
nowadays, along with cam-ratchet self-retaining terminations. The
specific advantage is as I originally proposed, that the insulation
continues to reinforce the wire core against movement.
>> i Strip wire as usual. Tin or not etc as desired.
Don't think it matters a great deal for single core.
--
Cheers,
Paul B.
'SPI and Microwire'
1998\11\28@165513
by
Morgan Olsson
I thougt it was the same (shift register technique)
Now i see that Mchip have different SPI and Microwire EEPROMS
And also there seem to be different modes in SPI
What is the difference?
Does anyone know where to get the specs?
(Tried Mchip search but their server returns a 500 error)
/Morgan
Morgan Olsson ph +46(0)414 70741
MORGANS REGLERTEKNIK fax +46(0)414 70331
H€LLEKS (in A-Z letters: "HALLEKAS")
SE-277 35 KIVIK, SWEDEN @spam@mrtEraseME
spaminame.com
___________________________________________________________
1998\11\29@073347
by
Adriano De Minicis
|
> Now i see that Mchip have different SPI and Microwire EEPROMS
> And also there seem to be different modes in SPI
> What is the difference?
Hi Morgan,
A good tutorial on the differences between SPI, Microwire and
I2C EEPROMs is "Using Serial EEPROMs" by Jan Axelson, on Circuit
Cellar Ink #84 (July 1997).
There is also a second part (CCI #85) describing a project of
an EEPROM programmer connected on the parallel port of a PC,
complete with VB code that can be downloaded from the CCI site:
ftp://ftp.circuitcellar.com/CCINK/1997/Issue_85/SEEPROM.ZIP
If I recall correct, the main differences between SPI and Microwire
are:
- Chip Select:
SPI is active low.
Microwire is active high and the master must deactivate CS after
each instruction (except sequential reads)
- Clock edge:
SPI and Microwire both write bits (EEPROM SO/DO line) on the
rising edge of the clock, but they differ when reading bits
(EEPROM SI/DI line): SPI latch data on the FALLING edge of the
clock, while Microwire on the RISING edge.
- There are also other (small?) differences in the protocol
Adriano
1998\11\29@092518
by
marc
|
Adriano De Minicis wrote:
{Quote hidden}> > Now i see that Mchip have different SPI and Microwire EEPROMS
> > And also there seem to be different modes in SPI
> > What is the difference?
>
> Hi Morgan,
>
> A good tutorial on the differences between SPI, Microwire and
> I2C EEPROMs is "Using Serial EEPROMs" by Jan Axelson, on Circuit
> Cellar Ink #84 (July 1997).
>
> There is also a second part (CCI #85) describing a project of
> an EEPROM programmer connected on the parallel port of a PC,
> complete with VB code that can be downloaded from the CCI site:
> ftp://ftp.circuitcellar.com/CCINK/1997/Issue_85/SEEPROM.ZIP
>
> If I recall correct, the main differences between SPI and Microwire
> are:
>
> - Chip Select:
> SPI is active low.
> Microwire is active high and the master must deactivate CS after
> each instruction (except sequential reads)
>
> - Clock edge:
> SPI and Microwire both write bits (EEPROM SO/DO line) on the
> rising edge of the clock, but they differ when reading bits
> (EEPROM SI/DI line): SPI latch data on the FALLING edge of the
> clock, while Microwire on the RISING edge.
> - There are also other (small?) differences in the protocol
>
> Adriano
1998\11\29@125224
by
Peter L. Peres
|
On Sat, 28 Nov 1998, Morgan Olsson wrote:
> I thougt it was the same (shift register technique)
Microwire is (C) [pat] [tm] Motorola, whereas SPI is an acronym that
cannot be patented...
> Now i see that Mchip have different SPI and Microwire EEPROMS
> And also there seem to be different modes in SPI
Not just Microchip but many others have different modes of SPI (including
Motorola).
> What is the difference?
There are three kinds of major differences: edge/level signalling,
positive/negative logic, and addressing.
The edge/level problem applies to ~SS especially, i.e. sometimes it is ok
to pulse ~SS after sending the required no. of clocks, or it has to be H
or L during all this time. There are also parts that clock in on the
high-going edge etc.
The addressing refers to the fact that some SPI part manufacturers choose
to address distinct functions in a chip by the number of clock pulses
until ~SS is (un)asserted. Motorola is one of these BTW.
> Does anyone know where to get the specs?
The Microwire specs are available on Motorola's site, I think as a part of
some HC11 (?) processor's data sheet. They will not do you a lot of good
if you work with other manufacturer's parts.
A reasonably flexible SPI library needs:
- Programmable ~SS and SCK polarity
- ~SS programmable as strobe pulse or enable
- Capacity to send or receive 1-N bits of data (yes, in increments of 1)
hope this helps,
Peter
1998\11\29@180500
by
mkeitz
|
On Sun, 29 Nov 1998 18:56:48 +0000 "Peter L. Peres" <plpTakeThisOuT
KILLspamACTCOM.CO.IL>
writes:
>On Sat, 28 Nov 1998, Morgan Olsson wrote:
>
>> I thougt it was the same (shift register technique)
>
>Microwire is (C) [pat] [tm] Motorola, whereas SPI is an acronym that
>cannot be patented...
"Microwire" is National's TM. "SPI" is Motorola's name. Neither seems
to have has been too actively sueing other manufacturers for re-using
their names.
>The addressing refers to the fact that some SPI part manufacturers
>choose
>to address distinct functions in a chip by the number of clock pulses
>until ~SS is (un)asserted. Motorola is one of these BTW.
Motorola I think first used this feature and named it "BitGrabber" TM.
The number of pulses is always a multiple of 8 though. That to me seems
to be the major difference: SPI devices try to group the data into bytes
of 8 because the SPI master hardware in Motorola processors always sends
8 bits at a time. Microwire devices are harder to deal with because they
send various lengths of data. For example to upgrade from a 93C46 to
93C56 EEPROM would require modifying the sending routine to send an
additional bit of address.
___________________________________________________________________
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Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
1998\11\30@131853
by
Peter L. Peres
|
On Sun, 29 Nov 1998 RemoveMEmkeitzTakeThisOuT
JUNO.COM wrote:
> On Sun, 29 Nov 1998 18:56:48 +0000 "Peter L. Peres" <@spam@plpSTOPspam
ACTCOM.CO.IL>
> writes:
> >On Sat, 28 Nov 1998, Morgan Olsson wrote:
> >
> >> I thougt it was the same (shift register technique)
> >
> >Microwire is (C) [pat] [tm] Motorola, whereas SPI is an acronym that
> >cannot be patented...
>
> "Microwire" is National's TM. "SPI" is Motorola's name. Neither seems
> to have has been too actively sueing other manufacturers for re-using
> their names.
Ok, it looks more confused from here (far away) ;). Thank you for putting
it right.
{Quote hidden}> >The addressing refers to the fact that some SPI part manufacturers
> >choose
> >to address distinct functions in a chip by the number of clock pulses
> >until ~SS is (un)asserted. Motorola is one of these BTW.
>
> Motorola I think first used this feature and named it "BitGrabber" TM.
> The number of pulses is always a multiple of 8 though. That to me seems
> to be the major difference: SPI devices try to group the data into bytes
> of 8 because the SPI master hardware in Motorola processors always sends
> 8 bits at a time. Microwire devices are harder to deal with because they
> send various lengths of data. For example to upgrade from a 93C46 to
> 93C56 EEPROM would require modifying the sending routine to send an
> additional bit of address.
Actually imho Microwire is easier to deal with because you do not have a
table of commands AND lengths, instead you use a table of lengths only. At
least on very small micros.
BTW there is at least one Motorola device that is message-length addressed
(a la Microwire) that I know well: MC145171, and they're not 8 bit
multiples either. So that much for being consequent. I wonder how one can
program a HC?? SPI master to talk to it (I used a PIC ;).
Peter
'Pic and 5 wire touchscreens'
1998\12\08@110308
by
Richard A. Smith
I am researching a possible upcomming PIC project that will have to read a 5 wir
e touchscreen.
Does anyone have any experience reading these things? I have done 4 wires befor
e but the 5 wire has me a little confused.
So far it seems that the decoding algorythm is complicated. I came up with eith
er needing to solve a quadratic eqn or use the law
of cosines. Both which involve ugly math.
Is there a better way?
--
Richard A. Smith Bitworks, Inc.
TakeThisOuTrsmithTakeThisOuT
RemoveMEbitworks.com 501.521.3908
Sr. Design Engineer http://www.bitworks.com
'Microwire source'
1998\12\11@161519
by
Lynx {Glenn Jones}
Des anyone know where i might find pic source code for interfacing with
Microwire devices. Im particularyly interested in interfacing with the
ADC0838.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
A member of the PI-100 Club:
3.1415926535897932384626433832795028841971693993751
058209749445923078164062862089986280348253421170679
1998\12\11@191721
by
Thomas Fleckenstein
Hello Glenn,
You might have a look at David Benson4s book - Pic4n up the pace,
it has an example on how to interface a ADC0831 to the PIC16C84.
I hope this helps. Good Luck !
Best Regards,
Thomas
Lynx {Glenn Jones} wrote:
>
> Des anyone know where i might find pic source code for interfacing with
> Microwire devices. Im particularyly interested in interfacing with the
> ADC0838.
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
> A member of the PI-100 Club:
> 3.1415926535897932384626433832795028841971693993751
> 058209749445923078164062862089986280348253421170679
1998\12\11@232025
by
Lynx {Glenn Jones}
|
Well, you see, im really looking for source for an AT90S1200 MCU, but as i
have found none, i was thinking id just port some PIC code over. Investing
in a book that i might not other wise use seems expensive for a simple
high school hobbiest as myself. thanks anyway though.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
A member of the PI-100 Club:
3.1415926535897932384626433832795028841971693993751
058209749445923078164062862089986280348253421170679
On Thu, 11 Dec 1997, Thomas Fleckenstein wrote:
{Quote hidden}> Hello Glenn,
>
> You might have a look at David Benson4s book - Pic4n up the pace,
> it has an example on how to interface a ADC0831 to the PIC16C84.
>
> I hope this helps. Good Luck !
>
> Best Regards,
> Thomas
>
> Lynx {Glenn Jones} wrote:
> >
> > Des anyone know where i might find pic source code for interfacing with
> > Microwire devices. Im particularyly interested in interfacing with the
> > ADC0838.
> >
> > ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
> > A member of the PI-100 Club:
> > 3.1415926535897932384626433832795028841971693993751
> > 058209749445923078164062862089986280348253421170679
>
'American Wire Gauge Table for PICSTERS'
1999\01\03@225847
by
Thomas McGahee
|
See table below for wire sizes and suggested current ratings, etc.
File away for future use.
----------
From: Ricardo Ponte G <spam_OUTrniniverspam
.....CANTV.NET>
To: PICLIST.....
@spam@MITVMA.MIT.EDU
Subject: How can I know the cable type ??????
Date: Tuesday, December 29, 1998 12:22 AM
Hi, how are you ? :
I have a doubt:
I4m trying to know How can I calculate the cable type (AWG or
somethig
like it) if a know how much current will flow throught it (some 40mA).
I need to know it because want to build a bobbin.
Any formulas ????
thanks.
----------
----------
No formulas here, but instead a wire table listing that should have the
info you desire.
AWG Wire Table for BARE COPPER Wire Compiled by a program written by Fr.
Tom McGahee
Compiled by Fr. Tom McGahee spamBeGonetom_mcgahee
spam_OUTsigmais.com
AWG = American Wire Gauge size
Dia-mils = Diameter in mils (1 mil = .001 inch)
TPI = Turns Per Inch (Ignoring thickness of unknown insulation)
Dia-mm = Diameter in millimeters (For comparison with non-USA coilers)
Circ-mils = Circular Mils. (circular mils = diameter in mils squared)
Ohms/Kft = Ohms Per 1,000 Feet
Ft/Ohm = Feet Per Ohm
Ft/Lb = Feet Per Pound
Ohms/Lb = Ohms Per Pound
Lb/Kft = Pounds Per 1,000 Feet
NormAmps = Normal Average Amp Capacity based on 500 circular mils per Amp
MaxAmps = Maximum recommended Average Amp Capacity in Open Air based on 438.489
circular mils per Amp
Actual Amp capacity of a wire depends on form factor and method of cooling!
MaxAmps assumes free flow of air around wire. Do NOT exceed this maximum without
cooling!
Wire wrapped in a coil or without any form of cooling may over-heat at MaxAmps!
Many factors govern the ACTUAL Max Amps you can pass through a wire continuously
. Be careful!
AWG Dia-mils TPI Dia-mm Circ-mils Ohms/Kft Ft/Ohm Ft/Lb
Ohms/Lb Lb/Kft NormAmps MaxAmps
0000 459.99 2.1740 11.684 211592 0.0490 20402 1.5613
0.0001 640.48 423.18 482.55
000 409.63 2.4412 10.405 167800 0.0618 16180 1.9688
0.0001 507.93 335.60 382.68
00 364.79 2.7413 9.2657 133072 0.0779 12831 2.4826
0.0002 402.80 266.14 303.48
AWG Dia-mils TPI Dia-mm Circ-mils Ohms/Kft Ft/Ohm Ft/Lb
Ohms/Lb Lb/Kft NormAmps MaxAmps
0 324.85 3.0783 8.2513 105531 0.0983 10175 3.1305
0.0003 319.44 211.06 240.67
1 289.29 3.4567 7.3480 83690 0.1239 8069.5 3.9475
0.0005 253.33 167.38 190.86
2 257.62 3.8817 6.5436 66369 0.1563 6399.4 4.9777
0.0008 200.90 132.74 151.36
3 229.42 4.3588 5.8272 52633 0.1970 5075.0 6.2767
0.0012 159.32 105.27 120.03
4 204.30 4.8947 5.1893 41740 0.2485 4024.7 7.9148
0.0020 126.35 83.480 95.190
5 181.94 5.4964 4.6212 33101 0.3133 3191.7 9.9804
0.0031 100.20 66.203 75.489
6 162.02 6.1721 4.1153 26251 0.3951 2531.1 12.585
0.0050 79.460 52.501 59.866
7 144.28 6.9308 3.6648 20818 0.4982 2007.3 15.869
0.0079 63.014 41.635 47.476
8 128.49 7.7828 3.2636 16509 0.6282 1591.8 20.011
0.0126 49.973 33.018 37.650
9 114.42 8.7396 2.9063 13092 0.7921 1262.4 25.233
0.0200 39.630 26.185 29.858
AWG Dia-mils TPI Dia-mm Circ-mils Ohms/Kft Ft/Ohm Ft/Lb
Ohms/Lb Lb/Kft NormAmps MaxAmps
10 101.90 9.8140 2.5881 10383 0.9989 1001.1 31.819
0.0318 31.428 20.765 23.678
11 90.741 11.020 2.3048 8233.9 1.2596 793.93 40.122
0.0505 24.924 16.468 18.778
12 80.807 12.375 2.0525 6529.8 1.5883 629.61 50.593
0.0804 19.765 13.060 14.892
13 71.961 13.896 1.8278 5178.3 2.0028 499.31 63.797
0.1278 15.675 10.357 11.810
14 64.083 15.605 1.6277 4106.6 2.5255 395.97 80.447
0.2031 12.431 8.2132 9.3654
15 57.067 17.523 1.4495 3256.7 3.1845 314.02 101.44
0.3230 9.8579 6.5134 7.4271
16 50.820 19.677 1.2908 2582.7 4.0156 249.03 127.91
0.5136 7.8177 5.1654 5.8900
17 45.257 22.096 1.1495 2048.2 5.0636 197.49 161.30
0.8167 6.1997 4.0963 4.6709
18 40.302 24.813 1.0237 1624.3 6.3851 156.62 203.39
1.2986 4.9166 3.2485 3.7042
19 35.890 27.863 0.9116 1288.1 8.0514 124.20 256.47
2.0648 3.8991 2.5762 2.9376
AWG Dia-mils TPI Dia-mm Circ-mils Ohms/Kft Ft/Ohm Ft/Lb
Ohms/Lb Lb/Kft NormAmps MaxAmps
20 31.961 31.288 0.8118 1021.5 10.153 98.496 323.41
3.2832 3.0921 2.0430 2.3296
21 28.462 35.134 0.7229 810.10 12.802 78.111 407.81
5.2205 2.4521 1.6202 1.8475
22 25.346 39.453 0.6438 642.44 16.143 61.945 514.23
8.3009 1.9446 1.2849 1.4651
23 22.572 44.304 0.5733 509.48 20.356 49.125 648.44
13.199 1.5422 1.0190 1.1619
24 20.101 49.750 0.5106 404.03 25.669 38.958 817.66
20.987 1.2230 0.8081 0.9214
25 17.900 55.866 0.4547 320.41 32.368 30.895 1031.1
33.371 0.9699 0.6408 0.7307
26 15.940 62.733 0.4049 254.10 40.815 24.501 1300.1
53.061 0.7692 0.5082 0.5795
27 14.195 70.445 0.3606 201.51 51.467 19.430 1639.4
84.371 0.6100 0.4030 0.4596
28 12.641 79.105 0.3211 159.80 64.898 15.409 2067.3
134.15 0.4837 0.3196 0.3644
29 11.257 88.830 0.2859 126.73 81.835 12.220 2606.8
213.31 0.3836 0.2535 0.2890
AWG Dia-mils TPI Dia-mm Circ-mils Ohms/Kft Ft/Ohm Ft/Lb
Ohms/Lb Lb/Kft NormAmps MaxAmps
30 10.025 99.750 0.2546 100.50 103.19 9.6906 3287.1
339.18 0.3042 0.2010 0.2292
31 8.9276 112.01 0.2268 79.702 130.12 7.6850 4145.0
539.32 0.2413 0.1594 0.1818
32 7.9503 125.78 0.2019 63.207 164.08 6.0945 5226.7
857.55 0.1913 0.1264 0.1441
33 7.0799 141.24 0.1798 50.125 206.90 4.8332 6590.8
1363.6 0.1517 0.1003 0.1143
34 6.3048 158.61 0.1601 39.751 260.90 3.8329 8310.8
2168.1 0.1203 0.0795 0.0907
35 5.6146 178.11 0.1426 31.524 328.99 3.0396 10480
3447.5 0.0954 0.0630 0.0719
36 5.0000 200.00 0.1270 25.000 414.85 2.4105 13215
5481.7 0.0757 0.0500 0.0570
37 4.4526 224.59 0.1131 19.826 523.11 1.9116 16663
8716.2 0.0600 0.0397 0.0452
38 3.9652 252.20 0.1007 15.723 659.63 1.5160 21012
13859 0.0476 0.0314 0.0359
39 3.5311 283.20 0.0897 12.469 831.78 1.2022 26496
22037 0.0377 0.0249 0.0284
AWG Dia-mils TPI Dia-mm Circ-mils Ohms/Kft Ft/Ohm Ft/Lb
Ohms/Lb Lb/Kft NormAmps MaxAmps
40 3.1445 318.01 0.0799 9.8880 1048.9 0.9534 33410
35040 0.0299 0.0198 0.0226
'[OT] IR Temp measurement (thermocouple wires)'
1999\01\08@104343
by
Johnson, Duane C
Hi Nigel;
I use what is called thermocouple extension wire all the time.
This has the same thermocouple metal wires but with a low
temperature plastic insulation.
Extension wire is usually heavier gauge wire. I use 24 gauge.
This is connected to the more expensive measurement
wire which is shorter.
The measurement wire is often insulated with quarts fiber insulation
and can withstand very high temperatures.
For most work at low temperatures I just use the extension wire
directly. I think it's easier to work with. Just keep the temperature
low enough to not melt the insulation.
'PIC & DMX Lighting control wireless'
1999\01\12@235546
by
gregnash
|
part 0 1091 bytes content-type:text/x-vcard; charset=us-ascii; (decoded 7bit)
In short, IR will be much easier.
Keith Burzinski wrote:
>
> Has anyone here tried to transmit DMX-512 wirelessly via IR or RF or
> the like? I am curious if this is possible... DMX-512 data is
> transmitted so fast that it would seem difficult or impossible to
> transmit it with one of these methods...
--
______
,----/ \----, Greg Nash EraseMEgnash.....
namoicotton.com.au
\ | | / Namoi Cotton, PO Box 58, Wee Waa 2388
\ \ o o / / work phone 02 6790 3011 fax 02 6790 3087
\/|\ /|\/ home phone 02 6793 5276 fax 02 6793 5319
| \ / | mobile 0417 253742
| \ \_| Private spamGregNashKILLspam
@spam@pastornet.net.au
| |\_/|
oooooooo http://www.geocities.com/Nashville/Opry/8450/
Content-Type: text/x-vcard; charset=us-ascii;
name="gnash.vcf"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Description: Card for Greg Nash
Content-Disposition: attachment;
filename="gnash.vcf"
Attachment converted: wonderland:gnash.vcf (TEXT/CSOm) (00025FC4)
1999\01\13@000554
by
gregnash
|
part 0 1334 bytes content-type:text/x-vcard; charset=us-ascii; (decoded 7bit)
Rather than running logical DMX over a different physical link, you could
use a DMX-like protocol of your own design at a lower speed. You would have
to be happy with not transmitting every real DMX packet, but to avoid
information loss, you could buffer the entire data set. ie receive real DMX
into memory at high speed and keep it up to date, transfer to another buffer
by slower wireless means, then transmit from that buffer at full speed with
high refresh.
You would see some delay creep into the control, depending how much slower
the wireless part was.
--
______
,----/ \----, Greg Nash gnashspam
TakeThisOuTnamoicotton.com.au
\ | | / Namoi Cotton, PO Box 58, Wee Waa 2388
\ \ o o / / work phone 02 6790 3011 fax 02 6790 3087
\/|\ /|\/ home phone 02 6793 5276 fax 02 6793 5319
| \ / | mobile 0417 253742
| \ \_| Private RemoveMEGregNashRemoveME
pastornet.net.au
| |\_/|
oooooooo http://www.geocities.com/Nashville/Opry/8450/
Content-Type: text/x-vcard; charset=us-ascii;
name="gnash.vcf"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Description: Card for Greg Nash
Content-Disposition: attachment;
filename="gnash.vcf"
Attachment converted: wonderland:gnash.vcf 1 (TEXT/CSOm) (00025FC6)
'[OT] Wire wrapping questions'
1999\01\19@125439
by
Toby Stensland
I can't find any instructions concerning wire wrapping, and I have a few questio
ns, and any general tips or hints would be welcome:
Generally I make small quantity (<5) PIC based circuits with just a few other IC
s and a few discreets. Is wire wrapping the way to go?
Is there a web page or book with instructions for wire wrapping?
Do I need to buy a special type of perf board?
What holds the sockets in the perf board?
We are thinking about buying the OK battery powered wrapping tool, any experienc
e or reviews?
What gauge wire should I use for typical PIC circuits?
Toby Stensland TakeThisOuTtoby@spam@
@spam@stensland.co
m
3112 South Independence Court
Lakewood, CO 80227
http://www.stensland.com
1999\01\19@132519
by
Matt Bennett
|
At 09:50 AM 1/19/99 , you wrote:
>I can't find any instructions concerning wire wrapping, and I have a few
questions, and any general tips or hints would be welcome:
>
>Generally I make small quantity (<5) PIC based circuits with just a few
other ICs and a few discreets. Is wire wrapping the way to go?
For unique circuits, I really, really like wire-wrapping. Duplication gets
very tedious, but errors are usually pretty easy to fix. Wire wrap is my
choice for 1st generation prototypes.
>Do I need to buy a special type of perf board?
Nope, anything that your wire wrap sockets will fit into will work.
>What holds the sockets in the perf board?
You can get boards that have solder pads around each hole, and you can
solder the sockets in. For my prototypes, I just stick them in, and allow
the friction of the board and the socket to hold them in, until the wires
are on, which hold them pretty well. This will not work very well if this
device is subject to vibration, motion, etc.
>We are thinking about buying the OK battery powered wrapping tool, any
experience or reviews?
I'd go for the AC powered version, unless the ability to wirewrap in places
without power is vital.
>What gauge wire should I use for typical PIC circuits?
30 ga. has worked well for me.
Other notes:
Used open frame wire wrap sockets and solder the decoupling cap directly to
the socket.
Wire point to point, using the shortest possible wire if at all possible.
Avoid long stretches of paralell wires (to avoid crosstalk). It usually
works out that
the messier it looks (more like a rats-nest) the better it will be for
things like crosstalk.
You can get ground plane perf board (with reliefs around each hole).
Use multiple colors of wire, and be consistent in their use (for example,
black for ground, red for +5, analog in blue, digital in yellow, etc.).
The biggest problem I've found in wire wrapping: inadequate power and
ground. If your perf board doesn't have it, consider making separate power
and ground busses, Solder filled solder wick works quite well for a low
impedance power bus.
Wire power and ground first,
Plan ahead.
Once the design is finalized, you can give it a bit more ruggedness by
soldering each one of the wraps you have done. But be careful, the
insulation will pull back with too much heat.
Use a spring loaded wire wrapping tool- This will give you much more
consistent wraps, especially for a beginner.
I've used wire-wrap on many projects, some with clock speeds > 30 MHz. It
will get much tougher as you increase speed to get sharp edges, eliminate
crosstalk, etc. I have had absolutely no problems with any of my 10MHz
circuits (16F84, 16C71).
Matt Bennett
TakeThisOuTmjbspam
arlut.utexas.edu
1999\01\19@132932
by
Matt Bonner
|
Toby Stensland wrote:
>
> Generally I make small quantity (<5) PIC based circuits with just a few other
ICs and a few discreets. Is wire wrapping the way to go?
Generally, a PCB product will be more reliable over the long term. That
said, I once wirewrapped a design in which only 2 finished products were
required for an oceanographic survey boat. No micro, but 20 or so ICs
(this was 1980). Last I heard (1990) the 2 products were still ticking.
>
> Do I need to buy a special type of perf board?
I always liked the perf board with nothing but copper pads - hard to
find today though. You could always get some general-purpose
prototyping boards made (with a couple of rows of 300 mil spaced pads
with connecting pads, room for discretes, and power rails).
>
> What holds the sockets in the perf board?
On non-copper perf board, I used to use non-acidic silicon (RTV 4385?).
> We are thinking about buying the OK battery powered wrapping tool, any experie
nce or reviews?
>
Years ago I swore by handwrapping tools until I used an electric tool.
Used properly, these tools make extremely reliable connections. Get a
good (expensive) stripping tool, otherwise even a small knick in the
conductor will cause problems.
> What gauge wire should I use for typical PIC circuits?
>
30 gauge is the most common. I always preferred 28.
--Matt
1999\01\19@135822
by
Reginald Neale
|
Toby asked:
>I can't find any instructions concerning wire wrapping, and I have a few
>questions, and any general tips or hints would be welcome:
>
>Generally I make small quantity (<5) PIC based circuits with just a few
>other ICs and a few discreets. Is wire wrapping the way to go?
Well, it's one possibility. Not good for high freq (>1mHz)
or fast circuits, though.
>
>Is there a web page or book with instructions for wire wrapping?
There's probably a web page for everything, but I don't know of
a good wire-wrapping one offhand to steer you to.
>
>Do I need to buy a special type of perf board?
No.
>
>What holds the sockets in the perf board?
Once you've wrapped a wire on them, the pins won't fit back
through the holes. You may want to glue the sockets on just
to keep them in place before they're wire-wrapped.
>
>We are thinking about buying the OK battery powered wrapping tool, any
>experience or reviews?
I've used it. It's "OK" ;-)
>
>What gauge wire should I use for typical PIC circuits?
It requires a special wire. I think the standard gauge is 28. It's
a solid silver-plated wire with Kynar insulation.
>
Vector makes a wire-wrap pin for holding a single component lead.
That makes it possible to use discrete components. Or you can
use a wire-wrap header socket and wire discretes to it.
There's a certain amount of skill involved. Nothing you can't get
a pretty good handle on in an hour or so. Make sure you have an
*unwrapping* tool :-) You'll probably save yourself some headaches
if you make out a to-from list for each wire ahead of time, and
then double-check it, and check your completed circuit agains the
list with a test light when you're through. Mirror-image wrapping
errors are VERY common.
Good Luck!
Reg Neale
1999\01\19@142135
by
Lee Jones
|
> Generally I make small quantity (<5) PIC based circuits with just a
> few other ICs and a few discreets. Is wire wrapping the way to go?
I make prototypes with it. I used to make limited production
run boards using wire wrapping -- got boring, but the final
product was quite reliable (decade plus in service; removed
because the equipment it was hooked to was replaced).
When I have components that don't fit in sockets (e.g. IR
receiver modules) or where wire wrap pins are inconvenient
(e.g. power transistors), I still "wire wrap" them. Wrap
one end of the wire normally around the WW pin. At the
other (non-WW pin) end, use a pair of needle nose pliers,
wrap the wire around the lead, and then solder that end.
In fact, precut & prestripped wire wrap wire makes great
wire for point-to-point solder connections.
Couple of hints that you might find handy.
For each board, I had a separate photocopy of the schematic.
Then after each wire was wrapped in place (on both ends), I
would highlight that run on the drawing. It made it possible
to have lunch or take a phone call without losing track.
If you are connecting more than 2 pins, don't daisy chain; use
alternating bridges. For example, say you're connecting pins
A, B, C, D, & E. Wire wrap A-B and C-D. Then wrap B-C and D-E
on the next layer. Especially during prototyping, if you need
to redo a run, like A-B, this lowers the number of unwrappings
& rewrappings required.
> What holds the sockets in the perf board?
Friction. If that's not enough, I've used epoxy on the frame
of the socket (not the pins) to hold it in place until the
wires are on.
> We are thinking about buying the OK battery powered wrapping tool,
> any experience or reviews?
Worked fine. Use ni-cad batteries; alkalines don't have enough
current capability. Or buy the AC (aka mains powered) version.
The spring loaded tip helps give consistent wraps when you are
just starting or when you're exhausted.
> What gauge wire should I use for typical PIC circuits?
I used the precut & prestripped 30 gauge wire for most runs. It
used to be available in assortments that varied by 1/2" (~1cm)
in length. Stripping wire is time consuming.
I'd prewire the power & ground planes first with a heavier,
usually 24, gauge wire (via needle nose pliers & soldering).
Lee Jones
1999\01\19@171438
by
Byron A Jeff
>
> I can't find any instructions concerning wire wrapping, and I have a few quest
ions, and any general tips or hints would be welcome:
>
> Generally I make small quantity (<5) PIC based circuits with just a few other
ICs and a few discreets. Is wire wrapping the way to go?
>
It depends. WW is excellent for prototyping and as reasonable endurance under
indoor conditions. As long as the environment isn't abusive, WW does ok.
> Is there a web page or book with instructions for wire wrapping?
I haven't seen one. I learned by practice and the instructions on the back
of the RatShack WW tool.
>
> Do I need to buy a special type of perf board?
Nope.
>
> What holds the sockets in the perf board?
The wrapped wire. I normally push my connections snug with the tool after
wrapping a pin the first time. This usually keeps the socket in place.
>
> We are thinking about buying the OK battery powered wrapping tool, any experie
nce or reviews?
>
Experience: BAD
Reviews: BAD
I've had absolutely no luck with any auto stripping/wrapping tools. They are
the worst because they make flaky connections. By this I mean that a connection
may work today or tomorrow, but all of a sudden three days later the project
no longer works due to a loose connection.
Take my advise, use a hand tool and strip the wire by hand. You'll be so far
ahead in the long run it isn't funny.
I've hand wrapped a 68020 and 68340 microcomputer along with countless PIC
projects. All work as advertised.
> What gauge wire should I use for typical PIC circuits?
Normal 30 gauge Kynar wire wrap wire is fine.
I just finished having an experience of trying to solder up a Christmas
light controller on a RatShack solder experimenters board. After hours of
foil lifting and bridged solder connections, even with the tiny tip and the
.022 diameter solder, I was longing for wire wrap.
Good Luck.
BAJ
1999\01\19@201000
by
Harold Hallikainen
|
On Tue, 19 Jan 1999 18:57:08 GMT Reginald Neale <KILLspamnealeKILLspam
spamBeGoneSERVTECH.COM>
writes:
>>
>>What holds the sockets in the perf board?
>
> Once you've wrapped a wire on them, the pins won't fit back
> through the holes. You may want to glue the sockets on just
> to keep them in place before they're wire-wrapped.
>>
There are also little plastic thingees that you can buy that
tightly slip over the wire wrap pins once you've put them thru the board.
They're called Wrap ID. Besides holding the socket to the board while
you get the first few wires in place, they have space where you can write
the chip number and also number each pin, which helps avoid wiring
mistakes.
Harold
Harold Hallikainen
spamBeGoneharoldKILLspam
hallikainen.com
Hallikainen & Friends, Inc.
See the FCC Rules at http://hallikainen.com/FccRules and comments filed
in LPFM proceeding at http://hallikainen.com/lpfm
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1999\01\19@202044
by
Greg Cormier
Hmm, I guess this question has been pretty much answered, but I'll stress a
few things
- Plan ahead. I usually draw right on the board with pencil, it rubs off
anyways.
- Mind your 1's and 14's. Sometimes it gets a little tricky when you're
look at pin 14, then you flip it over and wrap pin 1 instead.
As for the tools, well, if you go with the OK, it's not that bad. I used a
battery powered one, it worked nicely. But, I also use a hand tool at home.
i can't say I prefer the motorized tool, the hand tool has more control.
Oh, and personally, I can't find any use for the built in wire strippers in
the hand wrapping tools, they are quite pointless. Use another stripper.
One thing to be careful is not to scar the wire at all, or else it will
snap later on at the worst possible moment. =) As for mounting components,
I use a jewler's screwdriver (the small ones) to jam in the mounting pin,
works quite well. As for IC sockets, a dab of glue under the middle of the
socket does the trick nicely.
Hope this helps,
Greg
-----------------------
Greg Cormier
Kathmandu, Nepal
Local time : GMT + 5h30m
gcormier@spam@
KILLspamwlink.com.np
ICQ # : 565465
1999\01\19@221524
by
Eric Borcherding
|
Toby,
Perhaps the technique I have developed over the years will help you.
I tried Wire Wrapping (WW) and found getting the multi color wires with
prestrip was a hassle. It was also annoying to have 3/4 or 1/2 in of pins
sticking out of board bottom - ie bent shaaorted pins, not easily
minaturized.
There are up WW front tool costs - and rememer to get a hand unwrap tool.
What I do is to use a vectorboard with 0.10" grid with or without the ground
plane on top or individual solder pads per hole on bottom. This is your
choice sometimes Ground plane and solder pads are easier, less noisy. The
machined
pin sockets can be used for DIPs and SOIC conveter to DIP boards, or Caps
resistors that fit into the macined pin opening, other socket media also. A
small diameter tool like a 0.3 mm (leads) of a Pentel mechanical Pencil or a
#40 drill bit butt mounted into a fixture you can hold in your hand. The
idea
is to create a single loop on one side with a prestip of 3/16 or 1/8 inch.
Solder
this end to the machined pin (usually can stack two more later) then draw the
kynar wire sleeve into the solder joint soas to insulate that end. At the
other
end put the wire insulation down on the pad / pin and do a single loop and
solder then cut the kynar wire.
This technique although requiring practise and forthought on layout provides
a reliable shortest path connection with the least waste in wire and can run
at
to 50MHz (ground planed vectorboard) and 20 MHz on vectorboard. Once you
get used to it I have found I can do this just as fast as WWing and end up
with
a minaturized product that fits into the smallest of plastic cases or whatnot.
Best to adapt this technique to 20 Square inches or less, messy beyound this.
The tips on Green/Black for Grounds, Red for +, yellow for -, white for data
relay help when looking at during the build or years later on retrofits.
Since
you are doing five - focus on the first on wire routing then just visually
duplicate
including all component placement. Watch your positive and negative routing.
Aa loop for Vcc works nicely - with a dual loop for a digital and analog
interface
connected at only one point. Ground loops with star point crossing work well
on regular vectorboard. Look carefully at you decoupling Caps (liberal is
good)
and any Ferrites or Tees you may need.
I call it "micro WW", for lack of a better coined description.
Beyound 10 you will yearn to do a layout then a photographic positive (or two
thin foils on a reducing copier machine has done the trick for me with 0.015"
min traces) The POS-DEV photoresist method and the ferric chloride etch is a
possible step for "mass" hobby production. I have seen hobbiest produce
boards in the 65 cents per square inch square per board range per 100. - FWIW
Eric Borcherding
1999\01\19@234513
by
PMSC Control System
|
-----Original Message-----
From: Toby Stensland <EraseMEtobyRemoveME
@spam@STENSLAND.COM>
To: RemoveMEPICLISTspam
EraseMEMITVMA.MIT.EDU <STOPspamPICLIST.....
MITVMA.MIT.EDU>
Date: Tuesday, January 19, 1999 10:58 AM
Subject: [OT] Wire wrapping questions
>I can't find any instructions concerning wire wrapping, and I have a few
questions, and any general tips or hints would be welcome:
As you know - wirewrapping was THE way to interface multiple PCB's on a
common chassis 25 to 30 years ago. When I worked at Sperry Univac in the
70's - most of thier computer line used wirewrap. I will tell you what I
remember...
>Generally I make small quantity (<5) PIC based circuits with just a few
other ICs and a few discreets. Is wire wrapping the way to go?
Yes and no. One of the draw-backs to using wirewrap is that the wire added
inductance to the circuit. The result was 'ringing' in the circuit. Another
problem with wirewrapping is - if not done correctly - the wraps can become
resistive to the post. You must have a 'gas tight' wrap - to have a trouble
free wrap.
>Is there a web page or book with instructions for wire wrapping?
I'm not aware of one. However, the Federal Aviation Administration FAA may
have some material on the subject [many of those 'old' wirewrap computers
were used by them].
>Do I need to buy a special type of perf board?
>
>What holds the sockets in the perf board?
I'm sure that you can find a supplier of wirewrap proto-boards somewhere. As
for me, I would not consider using them.
>We are thinking about buying the OK battery powered wrapping tool, any
experience or reviews?
Denver-Gardner [Cooper Tools] made the best wirewrap tools, bar none. OK
was...OK. We considered OK more 'hobby' grade. Today, OK may be the only
vendor making these tools.
You will need the gun, 30 gauge MODIFIED WRAP bit, un-wrap tool, and 30
gauge
NO-NIC stripper. Using anything other then the NO-NIC stripper is asking for
trouble.
The 'hobbiest' will use the combination wrap/unwrap/stripping tool. Radio
Shack sold them for $5.95
>What gauge wire should I use for typical PIC circuits?
30 gauge wirewrap wire.
Happy wrapping,
Dave Gunderson
1999\01\20@015733
by
Mark Willis
|
My take on this:
Find someone who "knows" wire wrapping if you can, have them watch &
tutor you, for me at least it was a "Feel" thing - otherwise, just wrap
a whole bunch of joints until you get a "feel" for how it works. You
should see the post nicking the wire nicely when you do a good wrap &
then unwrap the wire (that's how you know you're getting a "gas-tight"
wrap i.e. tight enough wrap, the wire should be plasticly deformed
around the corner of the socket pins.) Consistency is IMPORTANT, that's
what makes the difference (IMHO) between a good and a flakey wire-wrap
board.
I use most anything (just regular perf board), usually don't glue, if
I do I like gel type superglue (It's great for re-working PC boards, and
if you have the catalyst, you can "set" the stuff in 1/10 of a second or
so. It sorts "puffs up" if you use too much catalyst, it gets hot &
boils <G>) I only glue boards that'll be in vibration environments.
Personally I can't stand Battery/AC powered wrappers, I like hand
wrappers (I think this is one of those "What works for you" things.
Lots of people I know use & like those, what matters is that *you* get
consistent, GOOD results.) I use a semi-modified wrap (1 or 2 turns
with insulation) for high-vibration prototypes, usually straight
wrapping though, and I put a nice #24 power & ground bus on there with
lots of bypass caps. Sometimes 2 strands of #24 in parallel. I use
staking pins (know what I mean but cannot remember the right name - It
pushes through the perfboard & you wrap on the bottom, the top has a
little terminal "fork" you can push wires in & solder to) to run
power/ground busses. You're always needing just ONE more Vcc or Ground
connection <G>
I agree on printing the schematic & highlighting it as you work (I
even use blue & then when I go back through, put yellow over the blue,
giving me green highlighting on double-checked traces.) (It may be
yellow then blue over that, I always play with it instead of remembering
the details) - this trick works well, and gives you a good visual way to
see how far along you are. And the boss can see what's up so he'll not
nag you <G>
If you have a lighted magnifying glass and a nice PanaVise or the
like, that helps reduce eye strain (You can wire-wrap sitting on the
floor - those make it a little more easy.)
I have a tool that has a little "finger-shaped" pin (bend your index
finger about 45 degrees - that sort of shape) on one end and a little
straight pin on the other end, that's a REALLY handy tool for wiring (I
have one but it's no longer made, really useful.) Could try a standard
screwdriver I guess, for bending wires & etc. is what I use mine for.
Don't nick the wire if you use a screwdriver.
Solder once perfectly happy with it, if needed (should work for years
normally.)
Do expect wire-wrapping to take a while, the nice thing for prototypes
is that you can easily change something.
For some protos you can use wire-wrap habits but regular sockets &
then solder, too (I've made quite a few protos that fit in tiny spaces
for one local company) - but here you end up moto-tooling sockets apart
for more room for the bypass capacitors (sometimes the crystal & caps
fit under there as well i.e. for 40-pin CPU's). But that's NEXT week's
projects <G>
Mark
Toby Stensland wrote:
>
> I can't find any instructions concerning wire wrapping, and I have a few quest
ions, and any general tips or hints would be welcome:
>
> Generally I make small quantity (<5) PIC based circuits with just a few other
ICs and a few discreets. Is wire wrapping the way to go?
>
> Is there a web page or book with instructions for wire wrapping?
>
> Do I need to buy a special type of perf board?
>
> What holds the sockets in the perf board?
>
> We are thinking about buying the OK battery powered wrapping tool, any experie
nce or reviews?
>
> What gauge wire should I use for typical PIC circuits?
>
> Toby Stensland toby@stensland.
com
> 3112 South Independence Court
> Lakewood, CO 80227
>
> http://www.stensland.com
1999\01\20@021207
by
Keith Causey
|
-----Original Message-----
From: Mark Willis <spamBeGonemwillisRemoveME
RemoveMENWLINK.COM>
To: @spam@PICLISTspamBeGone
MITVMA.MIT.EDU <spam_OUTPICLIST
spamMITVMA.MIT.EDU>
Date: Tuesday, January 19, 1999 11:58 PM
Subject: Re: [OT] Wire wrapping questions
Something I've found to be very useful is multicolored kynar. I color code
everything I can. My basic scheme for a small microprocessor based system is
red for +5v black for ground; green for data; yellow for address; white for
control;(rd_, wr_ etc) and blue and orange for whatever else I can uniquely
distinguish. Done properly your wirewrap board can be almost as lucid at a
glance as a schematic. I agree Mark about the manual tool's superority over
the automatic tool. It's just my personal taste. My employer offered to buy
me an automatic; I refused. I also chop off the wire wrap socket's pins to
half length. I have never had to use the whole pin. I don't know this but I
suspect all that extra metal might broadcast! Experiment, experiment,
experiment. You might even learn to like it.
1999\01\20@075510
by
Claudio Rachiele IW0DZG
|
Toby,
in the first years of '70, in IBM, we use wire wrapping also for larger
mainframes.
Boards have six layers of printed circuit and two layers of wire wrapping.
Wire wrapping is usefull for prototyping, but very expensive for production.
Try two way:
a. make your double sided pcb using less vias you can or trying to put vias
under IC sockets pins or components and solder pins for both sides.
b. use wirewrapp TEFLON wire and solder directly to IC and components pins on
a prototype perf board.
If you want to use wire wrapping use prototype perf board with or without
soldering pads, but not the bussed one like veroboard.
To fix IC sockets use a drop of glue on perf board without pads or solder the
four corner pads on the other.
Use 28 or 30 AWG wire silver copper for wire wrapping.
HTH
LMK
ciao
Claudio Rachiele IW0DZG
spamPICLISTspam
spamMITVMA.MIT.EDU
01/19/99 07:18 PM
Please respond to spamBeGonePICLISTKILLspam
KILLspamMITVMA.MIT.EDU
To: TakeThisOuTPICLIST
spamMITVMA.MIT.EDU
cc:
Subject: [OT] Wire wrapping questions
I can't find any instructions concerning wire wrapping, and I have a few
questions, and any general tips or hints would be welcome:
Generally I make small quantity (<5) PIC based circuits with just a few other
ICs and a few discreets. Is wire wrapping the way to go?
Is there a web page or book with instructions for wire wrapping?
Do I need to buy a special type of perf board?
What holds the sockets in the perf board?
We are thinking about buying the OK battery powered wrapping tool, any
experience or reviews?
What gauge wire should I use for typical PIC circuits?
Toby Stensland
spamBeGonetoby
stensland.com
3112 South Independence Court
Lakewood, CO 80227
http://www.stensland.com
1999\01\20@104054
by
Gary Crowell
Mark Willis wrote:
>
> I use most anything (just regular perf board), usually don't glue, if
> I do I like gel type superglue (It's great for re-working PC boards, and
> if you have the catalyst, you can "set" the stuff in 1/10 of a second or
> so. It sorts "puffs up" if you use too much catalyst, it gets hot &
> boils <G>) I only glue boards that'll be in vibration environments.
>
The only thing I have to add is the caution that you do *not* use the
liquid type superglue. It will wick up into the socket contacts and
make them unusable.
Gary Crowell
1999\01\20@130026
by
William Chops Westfield
By the way: number one "mysterious problem" in old mainframes with
wirewrapped backplanes? After 5+ years of operation, some of the wrapped
wires that were positioned against other pins would eventually have the
insulation displace enough to cause an inadvertent connection to the post!
BillW
'R: Re: [OT] Wire wrapping questions'
1999\01\20@131004
by
Leonardo De Palo
No,
if you remeber the environment of the 360/370 systems was strictly
controlled to avoid thermal stress and pollution.
Personally in the early '70 have worked on systems with ten year of
operation, without any problems related to the wrapping.
My experience say that the wire wrap is more reliable.
Ciao
Leo
-----Messaggio originale-----
Da: William Chops Westfield <EraseMEbillwEraseME
CISCO.COM>
A: spamBeGonePICLISTspam_OUT
.....MITVMA.MIT.EDU <spamPICLIST
MITVMA.MIT.EDU>
Data: mercoled“ 20 gennaio 1999 19.00
Oggetto: Re: [OT] Wire wrapping questions
>By the way: number one "mysterious problem" in old mainframes with
>wirewrapped backplanes? After 5+ years of operation, some of the wrapped
>wires that were positioned against other pins would eventually have the
>insulation displace enough to cause an inadvertent connection to the post!
>
>BillW
>
'R: Re: [OT] Wire wrapping questions'
1999\01\20@134115
by
William Chops Westfield
Personally in the early '70 have worked on systems with ten year of
operation, without any problems related to the wrapping.
Perhaps this was due to the systems having been moved several times. I
think I had at least 3 occurances on Decsystem20s, all on systems that were
purchased "used" in the mid to late 80s or early 90s (don't know when they
were built...) Of course, this was well past the heyday of the dec20, and
you had to be very lucky to have or find people who could diagnose and fix
such a fault...
BillW
'[OT] Wire wrapping questions'
1999\01\20@134711
by
Mark Willis
Gary Crowell wrote:
> Mark Willis wrote:
> >
> > I use most anything (just regular perf board), usually don't glue, if
> > I do I like gel type superglue (It's great for re-working PC boards, and
> > if you have the catalyst, you can "set" the stuff in 1/10 of a second or
> > so. It sorts "puffs up" if you use too much catalyst, it gets hot &
> > boils <G>) I only glue boards that'll be in vibration environments.
> >
>
> The only thing I have to add is the caution that you do *not* use the
> liquid type superglue. It will wick up into the socket contacts and
> make them unusable.
>
> Gary Crowell
Definitely agree - glue the plastic frame of the socket, avoiding the
pins as much as possible - if you later solder the wrapped wire, the
heat can mess most glues up, in addition to the glue messing the
wrapping up and making the sockets "N.O." <G>
Mark
1999\01\20@235110
by
PMSC Control System
|
Bill,
We called them 'cold flows' at UNIVAC.
They were nasty to find. The faults usually occured at random. For
troubleshooting this problem an effective 'low tech' method was used with
great success. We used to cycle the 'diagnostics' on the computer and
'massage' the back plane with a wooden spoon. If any movement was on the
'shorted' pin -- the program would 'die' or come to an error stop.
The backplane on our computers were usually wirewrapped with three levels of
wire on the pin. Level 3 wraps were on the top of the post, level 1 wraps on
the bottom. If the 'cold flow' happened on a level 1 wrap -- it was not
uncommon to remove a dozen [or so] wires to get to the 'bad' one.
Speaking of unconventional 'tools', one of the best tools for wirewrap
troubleshooting was using a small 'darning hook'. We would buy them at the
sewing supplies store. The small darning hook was ideal for snagging buried
wires in a backplane. To this day, I still carry one in my tool case.
Dave Gunderson
{Original Message removed}
'R: Re: [OT] Wire wrapping questions'
1999\01\21@022903
by
Leonardo De Palo
No,
if you remeber the environment of the 360/370 systems was strictly
controlled to avoid thermal stress and pollution.
Personally in the early '70 have worked on systems with ten year of
operation, without any problems related to the wrapping.
My experience say that the wire wrap is more reliable.
Ciao
Leo
-----Messaggio originale-----
Da: William Chops Westfield <RemoveMEbillwKILLspam
KILLspamCISCO.COM>
A: EraseMEPICLISTspamBeGone
spamMITVMA.MIT.EDU <KILLspamPICLIST
MITVMA.MIT.EDU>
Data: mercoled“ 20 gennaio 1999 19.00
Oggetto: Re: [OT] Wire wrapping questions
>By the way: number one "mysterious problem" in old mainframes with
>wirewrapped backplanes? After 5+ years of operation, some of the wrapped
>wires that were positioned against other pins would eventually have the
>insulation displace enough to cause an inadvertent connection to the post!
>
>BillW
>
1999\01\21@120954
by
myke predko
|
Hi Leonardo,
When I worked for IBM I was involved in the lawsuit against several
companies that were "counterfitting" mainframe memory cards and passing them
off as IBM originals.
What I found out about the equipment shocked me and would probably shock the
sleaziest used-car salesman on the planet. Used/Leased systems are moved,
torn down, reconfigured and generally abused like you wouldn't believe. The
internal cards themselves have components desoldered and then resoldered.
Two of my favourite stories about them was the receptionist at one of these
companies that was sued, received the process while reworking one of the
cards at her desk. The second was a 308x system that had its serial numbers
cut out of the frame. From the processor TCM serial numbers, we discovered
that it had been delivered to the Royal Bank of Kuwait in the spring of
1990. The lawyers loved to tell these stories when anybody said they
thought mainframes were treated with respect.
Wire wrapping is excellent if you are working with a machine that stays in
one place in a climate controlled environment.
Just because these machines were worth up to $30 Million or more and
required a specially trained team for the glass house design and
installation in no way guarantees that. I was told that it was for this
reason why IBM went to all embedded cards on the 308x - because even if the
system failed to abuse, it was IBM that got the wrap (terrible pun intended).
myke
{Quote hidden}>No,
>if you remeber the environment of the 360/370 systems was strictly
>controlled to avoid thermal stress and pollution.
>
>Personally in the early '70 have worked on systems with ten year of
>operation, without any problems related to the wrapping.
>
>My experience say that the wire wrap is more reliable.
>
>Ciao
>
>Leo
>
>-----Messaggio originale-----
>Da: William Chops Westfield <
billwspam_OUT
spamCISCO.COM>
>A:
PICLISTspam
@spam@MITVMA.MIT.EDU <
spamBeGonePICLIST.....
MITVMA.MIT.EDU>
>Data: mercoled“ 20 gennaio 1999 19.00
>Oggetto: Re: [OT] Wire wrapping questions
>
>
>>By the way: number one "mysterious problem" in old mainframes with
>>wirewrapped backplanes? After 5+ years of operation, some of the wrapped
>>wires that were positioned against other pins would eventually have the
>>insulation displace enough to cause an inadvertent connection to the post!
>>
>>BillW
>>
>
>
This week's books, first find out what I don't like about Michael Eisner's
"Work in Progress" and then what I did like about P.T. Deutermann's "Zero
Option":
http://www.myke.com/Book_Room/book1a.htm
Now Available! "Programming and Customizing the 8051 Microcontroller".
Find out more at:
http://www.myke.com/My_Books/pac8051.htm
'Wire wrappping method'
1999\01\21@195815
by
Emerson M. Hoyt
|
I'm surprized that no mention has been made of the Vector Slit-N-Wrap
method of prototype wire wrapping. I have been using this method for about
20 years and find it very satisfactory. Slit-N-Wrap uses a special hand
tool with a special bit in one end and a reel of wire at the other. One
places the bit end onto a wire-wrap pin and turns the tool by hand, perhaps
five turns. As the wire emerges from the bit, the insulation is slit and
the wire makes a perfect gas-tight contact with the pin - so tight that it
makes grooves in the corners of the pin. With this system one can
"daisy-chain" from one pin to another without cutting individual pieces of
wire and without threading the stipped wire into the tool, as with the
conventional system. This method is very fast, very efficient, produces
minimum lengths of wire with less inductance, and because of it's inherent
simplicity, results in very few if any errors.
Digikey lists the Vector tools and wire in their #0991 calalog, page 475.
The hardware is a bit pricey, but well worth it if you do much wire wrap
wiring. I would reccomend the #30 tool and #30 wire. Happy wire wrapping !!!
Emerson M. Hoyt, Hoyt Instrument Laboratory, Beaverton, Oregon, USA
1999\01\22@102558
by
Gary Crowell
"Emerson M. Hoyt" wrote:
>
> I'm surprized that no mention has been made of the Vector Slit-N-Wrap
> method of prototype wire wrapping. I have been using this method for > > abou
t 20 years and find it very satisfactory.
I can second that; used it myself quite a bit, but that was awhile ago.
Didn't know they still made it.
> the wire makes a perfect gas-tight contact with the pin - so tight that > it m
akes grooves in the corners of the pin.
Of course, that is true with any correctly applied wire-wrap. In fact,
that is why you technically shouldn't re-use wire-wrap sockets - the pin
corners have been dulled by any previous wrap.
> This method is very fast, very efficient, produces
> minimum lengths of wire with less inductance, and because of it's
> inherent simplicity, results in very few if any errors.
Here again, I'll second that. You usually get by with fewer levels or
wrap too.
Gary Crowell
Micron Technology
'[OT] Wire wrapping questions'
1999\01\22@112636
by
Harold Hallikainen
Something I haven't seen on this thread yet is mention of the
automatic wire wrap machines that were pretty popular in the 1970's
before multilayer circuit boards became popular. Those were amazing
machines!
Harold
Harold Hallikainen
.....harold@spam@
hallikainen.com
Hallikainen & Friends, Inc.
See the FCC Rules at http://hallikainen.com/FccRules and comments filed
in LPFM proceeding at http://hallikainen.com/lpfm
___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
1999\01\22@140437
by
Keith Causey
|
Hi Harold,
They were mentioned but their virtues were not extolled by me. At least
one other person seemed to think the same thing. Manual wire-wrapping rules.
I do understand that it is a personal preference. Manual has the price war.
The manual tools and the multicolored kynal will set you back about $50.00
to do it in real style. That covers 6 colors of wire from Jameco, a manual
tool ($7.00) from Radio Shack, and some board and sockets from the dealer of
your choice.
Keith Causey
{Quote hidden}> Something I haven't seen on this thread yet is mention of the
>automatic wire wrap machines that were pretty popular in the 1970's
>before multilayer circuit boards became popular. Those were amazing
>machines!
>
>Harold
>
>
>
>Harold Hallikainen
>
@spam@harold
hallikainen.com
>Hallikainen & Friends, Inc.
>See the FCC Rules at
http://hallikainen.com/FccRules and comments filed
>in LPFM proceeding at
http://hallikainen.com/lpfm
>
>___________________________________________________________________
>You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
>Get completely free e-mail from Juno at
http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
>or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
>
1999\01\22@145806
by
Gary Crowell
Keith Causey wrote:
>
> Hi Harold,
> They were mentioned but their virtues were not extolled by me. At least
> one other person seemed to think the same thing. Manual wire-wrapping rules.
I think Harold was referring to the really automated machines - more
akin to a flat-bed plotter; wraps an entire board from a wirelist
without any hand operations.
GC
1999\01\22@162643
by
William Chops Westfield
The "manual" wire wrapping tools seem to have jumped quite a bit in price
recently.
I had a summer job that consisted primarilly of wirewrapping prototypes on
"professional" wire wrap pannels (WW pins directly embedded in a PC board,
with Vcc and Gnd planes and extra pins for them.) Had pro electric WW guns
and pro strippers (manual) too. It was MUCH nicer than the manual tool I
wound up with for my own stuff, but you'd be talking about $200 for the gun
and $100 for the strippers. (and dont even THINK about buying new panels of
that sort, although they occasionally show up on the surplus market at
reasonable prices.) I haven't tried any of the "cheap" electric tools.
BillW
1999\01\27@134259
by
Larry G. Nelson Sr.
|
I suggest using you schematic capture CAD tool to generate a wire list if
you use one. For years I used Orcad to give me a wire list for a netlist.
It is easier and less prone to errors than the highliter to the schematic
method. If you use another CAD tool look for a netlist format like "wire
list" to do this.
At 06:57 PM 1/19/99 GMT, you wrote:
snip
{Quote hidden}>
> Vector makes a wire-wrap pin for holding a single component lead.
> That makes it possible to use discrete components. Or you can
> use a wire-wrap header socket and wire discretes to it.
> There's a certain amount of skill involved. Nothing you can't get
> a pretty good handle on in an hour or so. Make sure you have an
> *unwrapping* tool :-) You'll probably save yourself some headaches
> if you make out a to-from list for each wire ahead of time, and
> then double-check it, and check your completed circuit agains the
> list with a test light when you're through. Mirror-image wrapping
> errors are VERY common.
Larry G. Nelson Sr.
L.NelsonRemoveME
ieee.org
http://www.ultranet.com/~nr
'[OT?] Wire Wrap headers'
1999\01\28@214026
by
Bob Drzyzgula
|
I've been working on a prototype for a PIC16C76-based
monitoring & control circuit, and I've been using the
MicroEngineering Labs PicProto 3 boards. Most of the
basic power-supply and oscillator stuff I've just
soldered in (since that's so nicely set up already),
but I'm trying to do wire-wrap for the rest of it.
One thing that would be a big help in this kind of
circuit is a wire-wrap 0.1" pitch dual-row header.
I'd like to have one to make it easier to carry
intermediate signals off-board (I've got a wire-wrap
DB-25 in the board for the main interface signals) or
for jumper selects.
But while I can find wire-wrap D-subs, DIP sockets,
SIPP headers, and individual pins, I can't seem to find
just a basic dual-row header. The closest I could find
were some fancy latching headers in Digi-Key, but they
seem like they'd take up a lot of space and I would
really prefer the break-to-fit type. (I ordered
a few to see if they'd be workable but they haven't
come yet). I tried using some SIPP headers, but the
problem is finding a decent crimp pin that I can push
into the sockets... they're designed for the smaller
pins on SIPPs (they also work well for basic DIPs) and
the smallest stuff I have around -- HD-20, HD-22 and
even AMP MOD-IV male crimp pins -- are too fat to fit in
the sockets. I suppose I could just use solid hook-up
wire, but...
Anyone have a suggestion?
TIA,
--Bob
--
============================================================
Bob Drzyzgula It's not a problem
spambob
drzyzgula.org until something bad happens
============================================================
'[OT] Wire Wrapping'
1999\01\28@221137
by
Sean Breheny
Hi all,
I recently have seen quite a bit of talk about wire wrapping and I have a
very basic question about it: why do people like it as a prototyping
technique?
For my own prototyping, I use breadboards (the plug-in kind) for
non-sensitive stuff and then copper-plated standard grid boards, and
sometimes etch my own boards. It would seem to me, naively, that wire
wrapping is no better than breadboarding, since the lead lengths really
can't be kept much shorter (hence inductance is still a problem), and no
ground plane is available in either case (so "star" grounds are the only
way to avoid ground loops in either case). I must admit to never even
having tried it, but it must be at least a bit harder than just plugging
things into a breadboard. I also very rarely have intermittant contact
problems with breadboards (maybe I'm just lucky?)
I appreciate any answers people can give me because I would consider
switching my prototype technique if there is a significant advantage (one
of my favorite types of circuits to work on, in addition to PICs, are RF
circuits, and of course, I have trouble getting higher than a 10MHz BW with
circuits on plug-in breadboards because of, mainly, I would suspect
parasitic capacitance between rows of contacts. Perhaps this is less on
wire wrapped boards?)
Thanks,
Sean
+-------------------------------+
| Sean Breheny |
| Amateur Radio Callsign: KA3YXM|
| Electrical Engineering Student|
+-------------------------------+
Save lives, please look at http://www.all.org
Personal page: http://www.people.cornell.edu/pages/shb7
shb7spam_OUT
TakeThisOuTcornell.edu Phone(USA): (607) 253-0315 ICQ #: 3329174
1999\01\29@071816
by
Bob Drzyzgula
|
On Thu, Jan 28, 1999 at 10:09:59PM -0500, Sean Breheny wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> I recently have seen quite a bit of talk about wire wrapping and I have a
> very basic question about it: why do people like it as a prototyping
> technique?
Personally, I suck at ad-hoc soldering on grid boards :-)
I use the solderless breadboards as a sort of scratch pad
to try out ideas and check my thoughts, but they are kind
of problematic when one wants to test an entire circuit
in the intended environment.
> I appreciate any answers people can give me because I would consider
> switching my prototype technique if there is a significant advantage (one
> of my favorite types of circuits to work on, in addition to PICs, are RF
> circuits, and of course, I have trouble getting higher than a 10MHz BW with
> circuits on plug-in breadboards because of, mainly, I would suspect
> parasitic capacitance between rows of contacts. Perhaps this is less on
> wire wrapped boards?)
In the previous thread on wire wrapping, there was some
discussion about bandwidth limits of the technique. I
usually don't drive PICs above 4MHz, so it hasn't been
a problem. Also, the meLabs Pic Protoboards and the
Dontronics SIMM boards provide places to solder the
oscillator circuit into nice short PCB traces, which is
usually the fussiest part of what I do. In both of those
designs there are nice transitions to a decent-sized grid
board for ad hoc work.
--Bob
--
============================================================
Bob Drzyzgula It's not a problem
spam_OUTbob@spam@
RemoveMEdrzyzgula.org until something bad happens
============================================================
1999\01\29@084732
by
dave vanhorn
|
At 07:07 AM 1/29/99 -0500, Bob Drzyzgula wrote:
>On Thu, Jan 28, 1999 at 10:09:59PM -0500, Sean Breheny wrote:
>> Hi all,
>>
>> I recently have seen quite a bit of talk about wire wrapping and I have a
>> very basic question about it: why do people like it as a prototyping
>> technique?
>
>Personally, I suck at ad-hoc soldering on grid boards :-)
>I use the solderless breadboards as a sort of scratch pad
>to try out ideas and check my thoughts, but they are kind
>of problematic when one wants to test an entire circuit
>in the intended environment.
Me, I use a copper clad board, plain. I "dead bug" the chips to it, taking
their ground pins directly to the copper.
The other pins are spread out, and connected with wire-wrap wire, soldered
on. This has served well for high current switchers, a VHF 1W transmitter,
and a bunch of various others. (Currently an FM band synthesized transmitter)
I've standardized on an 8" x 12" board, which I made a slotted cabinet for,
with slots every 1/2". This allows me to swap projects on and off the bench
fairly fast. If the project is Atmel 8515 based, I put down dual row
headers to connect to their development board, otherwise I put a tie in for
ICP or a socket for the CPU using a surfboard.
1999\01\29@093107
by
Martin McCormick
The thing I like about perforated board and wire wrap
sockets is that if you like what you have made, you can just continue
to use it for decades and it will work. When the need for the device
has passed, the components can largely be reused including the circuit
board. I don't know of anything else that is as open-ended as this.
Making PCB's is the only way to fly for mass-producing
circuits once they have been finalized, but the wire-wrap technology
is for a different purpose and serves that purpose very well.
Martin McCormick WB5AGZ Stillwater, OK
OSU Center for Computing and Information Services Data Communications Group
1999\01\29@102403
by
Reginald Neale
|
Sean asked:
>
>I appreciate any answers people can give me because I would consider
>switching my prototype technique if there is a significant advantage (one
>of my favorite types of circuits to work on, in addition to PICs, are RF
>circuits, and of course, I have trouble getting higher than a 10MHz BW with
>circuits on plug-in breadboards because of, mainly, I would suspect
>parasitic capacitance between rows of contacts. Perhaps this is less on
>wire wrapped boards?)
>
Sean:
My opinion - wire-wrapped boards probably aren't going to be a whole
lot better for RF circuits. For general prototyping, wire-wrapping
is still a viable choice but it's not the solution to every problem.
I don't use wire-wrap as much as I used to, but that's mostly because
there is not as much occasion for building boards that are IC
connection-intensive as opposed to component-intensive. It used to make
sense to wire-wrap big blocks of discrete logic, but they have largely
been replaced by PICs and other embedded micros where many of those
functions are implemented in software.
In theory, it's easy to make changes on a wire-wrap board. In practice,
every time I have to make a change, it involves a lot of bottom wraps
on multi-level wrapped pins. :-(
Not sure whether this has already been mentioned, but wire-wrapped
boards are not good in situations where the board is likely to get any
rough handling. The pins are long and skinny, so they are easily bent
and short together. The wire itself is tiny. Because it's solid
vs. stranded, it breaks easily if flexed.
My personal evaluation of the effort involved in making or changing
soldered connections vs. wire-wrapped ones is that it's close to a
wash. If you're getting good results with your present prototyping
technique, I'd stick with it.
Just my .02 - hope this is helpful,
Reg Neale
1999\01\30@050849
by
paulb
Sean Breheny wrote:
> and no ground plane is available in either case (so "star" grounds are
> the only way to avoid ground loops in either case).
You've got me puzzled there. What are these "ground loops" you are
trying to avoid?
--
Cheers,
Paul B.
1999\01\30@140726
by
Byron A Jeff
>
> Hi all,
>
> I recently have seen quite a bit of talk about wire wrapping and I have a
> very basic question about it: why do people like it as a prototyping
> technique?
>
> For my own prototyping, I use breadboards (the plug-in kind) for
> non-sensitive stuff
Breadboards are out for one simple reason: complete lack of stability. It's
simply too easy to pull a wire out of place.
I did breadboarding in college, including a 6802 based microcomputer. The
wiring problems turned me off to them forever.
> and then copper-plated standard grid boards, and
> sometimes etch my own boards.
I think I told my soldering story a couple of weeks ago. I got a RatShack
(probably my first mistake) grid board to put a Xmas light controller on.
I had quite a time with solder bridges even using the fine tipped soldering
iron and the .022 diameter solder. Next time I'll wire wrap it.
> It would seem to me, naively, that wire
> wrapping is no better than breadboarding, since the lead lengths really
> can't be kept much shorter (hence inductance is still a problem), and no
> ground plane is available in either case (so "star" grounds are the only
> way to avoid ground loops in either case).
Correct on the inductance, and also on the ground plane. If it's a big project
I'll create a power bus by soldering all the pins of a dual wire wrap header
together, then pull power and ground from the wire wrap pins underneath.
> I must admit to never even
> having tried it, but it must be at least a bit harder than just plugging
> things into a breadboard. I also very rarely have intermittant contact
> problems with breadboards (maybe I'm just lucky?)
The contacts didn't bother me as much as wires coming aloose. with wire wrap,
once a pin is wrapped, you literally have to destroy the wire to get it
detached from the pin. The secure mechanical connection is better than
breadboards and frankly better than solder. Again my perspective is from an
admittedly bad solderer. But I've had enough cold solder connections to
not wish for anymore.
>
> I appreciate any answers people can give me because I would consider
> switching my prototype technique if there is a significant advantage (one
> of my favorite types of circuits to work on, in addition to PICs, are RF
> circuits, and of course, I have trouble getting higher than a 10MHz BW with
> circuits on plug-in breadboards because of, mainly, I would suspect
> parasitic capacitance between rows of contacts. Perhaps this is less on
> wire wrapped boards?)
If done carefully. But I think that for the RF work, PCB boards are best.
But I don't do RF work. All of my electronics are microcontroller based. And
I can't remember the last time that I hand wrapped a uC board that didn't
work. I've had less than stellar results with automatic tools such as
Slit-N-Wrap and wire guns.
For me wire wrap represents the flexibility of breadboards coupled with the
mechanical stability of solder. I can experiment and modify a board and use
exactly the same board as a permanent fixture once it's done. The only thing
I wish I could get is the same board depth as solder.
So that's my thoughts on it.
BAJ
1999\01\30@142011
by
dave vanhorn
|
At 06:23 PM 1/30/99 +1000, Paul B. Webster VK2BZC wrote:
>Sean Breheny wrote:
>
>> and no ground plane is available in either case (so "star" grounds are
>> the only way to avoid ground loops in either case).
>
> You've got me puzzled there. What are these "ground loops" you are
>trying to avoid?
If a circuit grounds at two different points, then it is suceptible to
current flowing in the ground.
(Ground IS a signal!) For example, I have a project where I am running a
stepper motor at 1A, next to a head amplifier with a gain figure of 7000.
If I let the head amp have more than one ground point, it could pick up
some voltage from the stepper's ground return current. The current in
ground becomes a voltage, if ground's resistance is not zero. (It never is).
If you tap ground at two points, there will be a voltage differential when
current is flowing. That voltage differential is then applied to your
circuit as if you inserted a voltage source in series with your grounds.
Since the head amp has only one ground point, it dosen't matter how much
current is flowing in ground, I don't see two points, therefore I don't
develop any voltage drop. How you do this, is to take a functional block
of circuitry, and connect the grounds within it with large low Z traces,
then take one point, and connect it out to system ground with a single
trace, hopefully to a point where no current is flowing. In my case, I used
the neg lead of my main power supply cap as the "star point". Each section
powered from that voltage has a single return trace to that point, or
whichever power supply cap they draw from. The power supply caps are
similarly linked.
It's just like your mom told you, only with current.. Put things back where
you got them from ! :)
1999\01\30@154715
by
Larry Dewey
|
At 02:06 PM 1/30/99 -0500, you wrote:
>>
>> Hi all,
>>
>> I recently have seen quite a bit of talk about wire wrapping and I have a
>> very basic question about it: why do people like it as a prototyping
>> technique?
>>
>> For my own prototyping, I use breadboards (the plug-in kind) for
>> non-sensitive stuff
>
>Breadboards are out for one simple reason: complete lack of stability. It's
>simply too easy to pull a wire out of place.
>
>I did breadboarding in college, including a 6802 based microcomputer. The
>wiring problems turned me off to them forever.
>
I've been using a breadboard for prototyping circuits for about five years,
and I'm very happy with the results. Circuits are so easy to rewire when
the inevitable mistakes are discovered. Usually my initial circuit looks
like a rat's nest of wires, but as it matures, I replace the ones that are
longer than necessary with wires that lay flat on the board. This makes
the circuit more accessible and more mehanically stable. It looks better too.
The only draw-back to the system that I have now is making mechanically
sound connections to outside devices such as an lcd module, power supply,
and db9 connectors. As my board sprouts more of these, I'm going to have
to address this problem before long.
Larry
KG7LO
44 years old
PICing in Port Townsend, Washington
1999\01\31@193126
by
Sean Breheny
Hi all,
At 02:08 PM 1/30/99 -0500, you wrote:
>At 06:23 PM 1/30/99 +1000, Paul B. Webster VK2BZC wrote:
>>Sean Breheny wrote:
>>
>>> and no ground plane is available in either case (so "star" grounds are
>>> the only way to avoid ground loops in either case).
>>
>> You've got me puzzled there. What are these "ground loops" you are
>>trying to avoid?
>
>
>If a circuit grounds at two different points, then it is suceptible to
>current flowing in the ground.
>(Ground IS a signal!) For example, I have a project where I am running a
>stepper motor at 1A, next to a head amplifier with a gain figure of 7000.
Yes, this is what I meant by ground loops. I am in the midst of a project
right now where this sort of thing affected me greatly. It was a real
learning experience! I just completed a design for an adjustable 3Amp power
supply. I wanted to keep output ripple below 5mV. If I used different
ground points for my voltage reference and my main output ground, and there
was a significant current flowing between them, I saw not only about a
100mV drop in the output voltage, but more importantly, a 50mV ripple.
Making these grounds the same point decreased it to 5mV. I even find this
true with little 78xx regulators. They are really decent regulators if you
make sure that you connect the return line from the stuff "downstream"
directly to the 78xx's GND pin. If you connect it further back, like back
at the rectifier, there will be a voltage error and a ripple voltage
proportional to the current and the resistance of the intervening wire. I
saw this first hand on my scope.
Regarding breadboards: I understand what Byron is saying about mechanical
stability, but usually this isn't a real problem for me. Just as Larry
pointed out, if one resists the temptation to use arbitrary length wires
and actually uses ones of appropriate length, this usually isn't a problem.
Just like Larry, the only time I really have a problem is when I try to
attach external components. It would be nice to find breadboards with mass
termination connectors built in. Anyone seen these?
Thanks to everyone for the comments. I think I will stay with breadboards
for now, but consider wire wrap for anthing that requires especially strong
mechanical connections in the prototype stage.
Sean
+---------------*----------------+
| Sean Breheny |
| Amateur Radio Callsign: KA3YXM |
| Electrical Engineering Student |
+---------------*----------------+
Save lives, please look at http://www.all.org
Personal page: http://www.people.cornell.edu/pages/shb7
spamshb7spam
cornell.edu Phone(USA): (607) 253-0315 ICQ #: 3329174
1999\01\31@202532
by
Steve Pillwein
|
Larry Dewey wrote:
> The only draw-back to the system that I have now is making mechanically
> sound connections to outside devices such as an lcd module, power supply,
> and db9 connectors. As my board sprouts more of these, I'm going to have
> to address this problem before long.
>
> Larry
> KG7LO
> 44 years old
> PICing in Port Townsend, Washington
A similar problem was hampering my ability to try different experiments when
I got started learning with PICs. I soldered a ribbon cable to my LCD, but
found it was too time-consuming having to insert those tiny wires into the
breadboard.
It also wasn't very portable. Then I came up with this solution:
I took a strip of 0.10" spaced single header and soldered the ribon cable to t
he
header. I split the ribbon cable into three sections: 8-pin header for the data
lines,
3-pin for the control lines, and 3-pin for the power connections. I used hot-me
lt
glue over the solder joints to re-inforce the cable so it can be inserted and
removed
quickly. This arrangement is now quite conveniently inserted and removed and
makes prototyping with a breadboard less labour-intensive.
After reading PIC' up the Pace and author David Benson's suggestion of makiing a
n
84
on a board for experimenting, I made a PC-board with a 16C84, a 4mhz oscillator,
a
reset button, and an in-circuit programming header that interfaces with my PIC-1
a
programmer. All the port lines and power connections are brought out to a
90-degree
0.10" header which plugs easily into a breadboard and frees up a lot of breadboa
rd
real-estate for the rest of the circuit. I call it the '84-Board.
I have a few small breadboards that I can now have different prototypes on, and
it's just a matter of reprogramming the PIC and plugging '84 board into the
circuit
on the breadboard I'm working on. Debug-test cycle is also much faster.
Steve
1999\01\31@225358
by
Steve Pillwein
|
My apologies if this is a repeat
posting.....I've had problems sending
this
to the list:
Larry Dewey wrote:
> The only draw-back to the system that
I have now is making mechanically
> sound connections to outside devices
such as an lcd module, power supply,
> and db9 connectors. As my board
sprouts more of these, I'm going to have
> to address this problem before long.
>
> Larry
> KG7LO
> 44 years old
> PICing in Port Townsend, Washington
A similar problem was hampering my
ability to try different experiments
when
I got started learning with PICs. I
soldered a ribbon cable to my LCD, but
found it was too time-consuming having
to insert those tiny wires into the
breadboard. It also wasn't very
portable. Then I came up with this
solution:
I took a strip of 0.10" spaced single
header and soldered the ribon cable to
the header. I split the ribbon cable
into three sections: 8-pin header for
the
data lines, 3-pin for the control lines,
and 3-pin for the power connections. I
used hot-melt glue over the solder
joints to re-inforce the cable so it can
be
inserted and removed quickly. This
arrangement is now quite conveniently
inserted and removed and makes
prototyping with a breadboard less
labour-
intensive.
After reading PIC' up the Pace and
author David Benson's suggestion of
makiing an 84 on a board for
experimenting, I made a PC-board with a
16C84, a 4mhz oscillator, a reset
button, and an in-circuit programming
header
that interfaces with my PIC-1a
programmer. All the port lines and
power con-
nections are brought out to a 90-degree
0.10" header which plugs easily into a
breadboard and frees up a lot of
breadboard real-estate for the rest of
the
circuit. I call it the '84-Board.
I have a few small breadboards that I
can now have different prototypes on,
and it's just a matter of reprogramming
the PIC and plugging '84 board into the
circuit on the breadboard I'm working
on. Debug-test cycle is also much
faster.
Steve
'[OT] Wire Wrapping'
1999\02\01@042354
by
Mark Willis
|
Sean Breheny wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> I recently have seen quite a bit of talk about wire wrapping and I have a
> very basic question about it: why do people like it as a prototyping
> technique?
> <snipped>
For several reasons, I use wire-wrap:
I have kitties here. Breadboards + little clawed paws = loose wires
all over the floor. (See also "rough handling" <G>)
Wirewrap's cheaper, more permanent and can be left in place easier
(Price a piece of perfboard vs. a solderless breadboard.)
It's not a problem for slower logic circuits etc. (In some ways, it's
a real advantage to prototype/test/debug a circuit on wire-wrap or
breadboard - if you get it working right there, then re-do the
production circuit in PC board, you're going to have already solved most
all problems that might occur - and most stuff I've been doing is Serial
or Parallel port connected projects so not RF speed. I agree on RF not
being optimal for wire-wrap unless you REALLY plan it out in advance. I
try to minimize wire runs as best I can, anyways.)
It's a lot easier, for prototyping purposes, to cut pieces of
perfboard out of my way to make a weird connector, a tab of a
transformer, or whatever, fit - if you have a transformer or the like
loose off a breadboard, it can break free easily. Moto-tool or nibbler
are wonderful tools, also an X-Acto knife or scalpel work well for
shaving holes larger.
Mark, @spam@mwillisspam_OUT
nwlink.com, Kent, WA
1999\02\01@065922
by
paulb
|
Steve Pillwein wrote:
> I used hot-melt glue over the solder joints to re-inforce the cable so
> it can be inserted and removed quickly.
*Not* a wise move. I just did that in my little light sequencer and
now want to get the stuff off so I can do the job properly with epoxy
(as I did when I made my first computer project 20 years ago with the
SC/MP ... sob!).
Why? Because the hot-melt does not harden sufficiently to prevent the
wires moving at the solder junction and breaking, and will make it even
harder to repair when they do! In particular, the pressure of insertion
pushes individual pins up and down within the header pin strip.
The thermoplastic carrier of the pin strip is purely to hold the pins
until soldered into a PCB; it is not made to withstand mechanical
stress, especially after soldering. It may look like a neat "plug", but
it isn't! Encapsulated in solid *epoxy* however, it will suffice.
Next faux pas - the header pins may fit in the nylon "breadboard", but
they won't fit in anything else, especially not a machined-pin IC socket
or a piece cut therefrom. Bother! My second-line protyping is, you
see, Veroboard (matches the breadboard in some ways) but I wanted a
socket to fit the header "plug".
> After reading PIC' up the Pace and author David Benson's suggestion of
> makiing an 84 on a board for experimenting, I made a PC-board with a
> 16C84, a 4mhz oscillator, a reset button, and an in-circuit
> programming header that interfaces with my PIC-1a programmer. All the
> port lines and power connections are brought out to a 90-degree
> 0.10" header which plugs easily into a breadboard and frees up a lot
> of breadboard real-estate for the rest of the circuit. I call it the
> '84-Board.
Resembles a Simmstick! http://www.dontronics.com/dt101.html
--
Cheers,
Paul B.
'1 wire keypad'
1999\02\02@225253
by
Tony Nixon
1999\02\03@014257
by
Matthew Ballinger
Nice idea. After posting my "PIC controlling Sony CD car head unit" subj
ect(a
few times, very sorry about that, didn't realize the bug), I got a reply from
Yura Galayda with an nice ascii diagram of the Sony Rotary Commander. It
inspired me to check to see if mine was similar to this. 15 minutes later I
had a working schematic of the buttons I needed. Nothing more than resistors
tied to ground activated by the button switches. Simple but effective and
reliable.
1999\02\03@032034
by
Michael Rigby-Jones
Neat idea. However, by losing the LM317 and using the keypad and resitors
with the single slope converter in AN512 (Microchip App Note), the method
could be used on low end parts without an AD converter with just a small
software overhead. I suspect you wouldn't even need the reference resistor
described in the app note, simplifying things even more.
A nice compact routine that chooses the closest value in a lookup table
would be nice, to allow for drift etc. My asm is not great so I'll leave
that to the rest of the gurus on here.
Regards
Mike Rigby-Jones
{Quote hidden}
1999\02\03@051546
by
Nuno Pedrosa
|
Haven't tried it, but it should be easy enough to set the resistors like
this:
Suppose you have 15 keys. Set the voltages to values like
18h
28h
.
.
.
E8h
F8h
By ignoring the lower 4 bits, tolerance to drift should be quite
reasonable.
I'm not sure about the reliability of the AD conversion in AN512, but
maybe it's
not a problem to use just 3 bits of tolerance, allowing for 31 keys...
14h,24h,...,1Ch,2Ch,...,E4h,F4h,...,ECh,FCh
What do you think?
Anyone wants to sort out the resistors? 8)
Nuno Pedrosa.
Michael Rigby-Jones wrote:
{Quote hidden}>
> Neat idea. However, by losing the LM317 and using the keypad and resitors
> with the single slope converter in AN512 (Microchip App Note), the method
> could be used on low end parts without an AD converter with just a small
> software overhead. I suspect you wouldn't even need the reference resistor
> described in the app note, simplifying things even more.
>
> A nice compact routine that chooses the closest value in a lookup table
> would be nice, to allow for drift etc. My asm is not great so I'll leave
> that to the rest of the gurus on here.
--
---- ~~~~~~~ ------- Nuno Filipe Freitas Pedrosa
-- ~~~~ ~~ ----- SIEMENS S.A. Portugal TEL: +351 1 4242454
- ~~~~ ~~ ---- Nuno.Pedrosaspam_OUT
spam_OUToen.siemens.de
- ~~~~ ~~ ---- "MSWindows - Best run on a SlideShow"
=======================================================================
1999\02\03@080156
by
Michael Rigby-Jones
|
I have managed to get a consistent 10 bit conversion using AN512, but there
is obviously a trade off with conversion time against resolution. The other
issue is detecting multiple keypresses which may be tricky, but may not be
important in a lot of applications.
Damn, you've got me all interested now. Hmmm...where did I put MPLAB?
Regards
Mike Rigby-Jones
KILLspammrjones
@spam@nortelnetworks.com
P.S. I've been getting 2 bounces for every posting irrespective of where my
reply goes, top, bottom or both.
{Quote hidden}> Haven't tried it, but it should be easy enough to set the resistors like
> this:
> Suppose you have 15 keys. Set the voltages to values like
> 18h
> 28h
> .
> .
> .
> E8h
> F8h
>
> By ignoring the lower 4 bits, tolerance to drift should be quite
> reasonable.
> I'm not sure about the reliability of the AD conversion in AN512, but
> maybe it's
> not a problem to use just 3 bits of tolerance, allowing for 31 keys...
> 14h,24h,...,1Ch,2Ch,...,E4h,F4h,...,ECh,FCh
>
> What do you think?
> Anyone wants to sort out the resistors? 8)
>
> Nuno Pedrosa.
>
> Michael Rigby-Jones wrote:
> >
> > Neat idea. However, by losing the LM317 and using the keypad and
> resitors
> > with the single slope converter in AN512 (Microchip App Note), the
> method
> > could be used on low end parts without an AD converter with just a small
> > software overhead. I suspect you wouldn't even need the reference
> resistor
> > described in the app note, simplifying things even more.
> >
> > A nice compact routine that chooses the closest value in a lookup table
> > would be nice, to allow for drift etc. My asm is not great so I'll
> leave
> > that to the rest of the gurus on here.
>
> --
> ---- ~~~~~~~ ------- Nuno Filipe Freitas Pedrosa
> -- ~~~~ ~~ ----- SIEMENS S.A. Portugal TEL: +351 1 4242454
> - ~~~~ ~~ ----
@spam@Nuno.PedrosaRemoveME
oen.siemens.de
> - ~~~~ ~~ ---- "MSWindows - Best run on a SlideShow"
> =======================================================================
>
1999\02\03@131533
by
andre
Hi Tony,
I liked the idea of using analog input.
if you use metal film resisters without LM317 and ziner
it should work ok .
open will be 5 Volts 0xFF
Andre
Tony Nixon wrote:
{Quote hidden}
1999\02\04@202433
by
Tony Nixon
|
Hi all,
I got a few replies about just using resistors to scale the voltage with
a 3 X 4 keypad. The reason for the 317 is that I can get a reasonably
linear relationship between resistance and voltage. If you use resistors
the change becomes logarithmic and the voltage difference becomes tight
at one end of the scale. It's quite a tall order selecting appropriate
resistors.
I tried to implement the idea with a single digital IO pin, but I'm not
sure it can be accomplished. The pin would need to monitor for a
keypress to start a conversion (capacitor charge) and then detect the
switching threshold.
It could probably be done with 2 pins, but it may be a waste of time
considering there can be 100's of ohms variation in the keypad due to
manufacture and finger pressure on the keys.
Interesting problem though.
--
Best regards
Tony
Multimedia 16F84 Beginners PIC Tools.
** NEW PicNPro Programmer and Port Interface **
http://www.picnpoke.com
Email spam_OUTpicnpokespam_OUT
RemoveMEcdi.com.au
'How to scan 9 keys with only 3 wires?'
1999\02\19@022439
by
Wagner Lipnharski
We got this problem in 1992.
We needed to scan 9 keys on a keyboard, and we
had space only for 3 wires, no other microchip
could be added to the circuit.
A terrible complication was involved:
One wire was GROUND to shield the 3 feet keyboard cable,
so in real we got only two wires plus ground.
How would you do it using a PIC as the mcu???
I will give you 10 minutes to think, then after
that just see the answer at:
http://www.ustr.net <--- click "Diagrams"
have fun,
Wagner Lipnharski
1999\02\19@023123
by
White Horse Design
At 07:23 19/02/99 , Wagner Lipnharski wrote:
>We needed to scan 9 keys on a keyboard, and we
>had space only for 3 wires, no other microchip
>could be added to the circuit.
>
>A terrible complication was involved:
>One wire was GROUND to shield the 3 feet keyboard cable,
>so in real we got only two wires plus ground.
>
>How would you do it using a PIC as the mcu???
Resistive network and ADC.
Regards
Adrian
---
WWW WWW Adrian Gothard
WWW WW WWW White Horse Design
WWWWWWWWWW +44-385-970009 (Mobile/SMS), +44-118-962-8913/4 (voice/fax)
WWWW WWWW RemoveMEwhd
.....zetnet.co.uk, http://www.users.zetnet.co.uk/whd
---
Developers of GPS satellite-based tracking systems for vehicles/helicopters
1999\02\19@081902
by
ryan pogge
>>We needed to scan 9 keys on a keyboard, and we
>>had space only for 3 wires, no other microchip
>>could be added to the circuit.
>>How would you do it using a PIC as the mcu???
>
>Resistive network and ADC.
>
>Regards
>
>Adrian
was it a PIC with onboard ADC? you forgot to metion what PIC
it was.
1999\02\19@121454
by
David W. Duley
In a message dated 2/18/99 11:31:30 PM Pacific Standard Time, spamwhd@spam@
ZETNET.CO.UK
writes:
<<
Resistive network and ADC.
Regards
Adrian
--- >>
You don't even need the ADC Just a .001 cap and 8 resistors would do it. I
do the same thing with a 5 position rotary switch on a product I produce. It
works great.
Dave Duley
1999\02\19@124809
by
Harold Hallikainen
|
On Fri, 19 Feb 1999 07:27:43 +0000 White Horse Design <whdTakeThisOuT
ZETNET.CO.UK>
writes:
>Resistive network and ADC.
I've always thought that this idea of using resistors to encode
several switches to be read by the A/D in a PIC was interesting. Anyone
have a sample design on this that uses a standard resistor network and is
simpler than building our own R-2R D/A? My doodling with stuff always
comes up with something pretty nonlinear or pretty complicated.
Re "scanning" 9 keys with 1 wire... If we're looking for only
one closure at a time, I guess we could just have a series string of
resistors and have the switches send the A/D the voltage from one tap on
the string. If we're interested in detecting multiple key closures, we'd
have a rough time fitting 9 keys into 8 bits!
Most of my applications involve DIP switches or thumbwheel
switches instead of momentary key closures, so I need to detect several
bits at once. Again, any simple resistor network ideas to send, say, 4
bits into a single A/D input on a PIC?
Harold
Harold Hallikainen
.....harold
TakeThisOuThallikainen.com
Hallikainen & Friends, Inc.
See the FCC Rules at http://hallikainen.com/FccRules and comments filed
in LPFM proceeding at http://hallikainen.com/lpfm
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1999\02\19@184421
by
Wagner Lipnharski
|
Harold Hallikainen wrote:
> Re "scanning" 9 keys with 1 wire... If we're looking for only
> one closure at a time, I guess we could just have a series string of
> resistors and have the switches send the A/D the voltage from one tap on
> the string. If we're interested in detecting multiple key closures, we'd
> have a rough time fitting 9 keys into 8 bits!
The series resistor network works nice and it is easy to assemble
when you have all the keys isolated, at least one side of the
switches, so you can connect this switch side to the resistors
points, and the other side (a common) connected to the "adc".
At that moment we were using a matrix keypad, and it was not
possible to do anything else. So, it was somehow a kind of a
headache to found an easy solution with "popular" resistor values,
and keep the voltage step almost equal from switch to switch.
Someone suggested to attach a cmos 555 in some way at the analog
keyboard output, trying to control a frequency, so it will
be easier to read even in a mcu without analog input.
Wagner Lipnharski
http://www.ustr.net/electronics/diagrams.htm
1999\02\19@233852
by
dave vanhorn
Resistors..
1999\02\19@234441
by
dave vanhorn
At 08:05 AM 2/19/99 -0500, ryan pogge wrote:
>>>We needed to scan 9 keys on a keyboard, and we
>>>had space only for 3 wires, no other microchip
>>>could be added to the circuit.
>
>>>How would you do it using a PIC as the mcu???
>>
>>Resistive network and ADC.
>was it a PIC with onboard ADC? you forgot to metion what PIC
>it was.
You don't need an ADC, but it's kind of convenient.
I can do it with one wire in addition to ground, if I get to see both ends
of the wire, otherwise I need two plus ground.
1999\02\19@235725
by
dave vanhorn
>At that moment we were using a matrix keypad, and it was not
>possible to do anything else. So, it was somehow a kind of a
>headache to found an easy solution with "popular" resistor values,
>and keep the voltage step almost equal from switch to switch.
You can do the matrix with resistors too. Think about it.
I think even multiple key closures are possible. (maybe not all possible
combos)
1999\02\20@021416
by
Wagner Lipnharski
dave vanhorn wrote:
> Wagner wrote:
> >At that moment we were using a matrix keypad, and it was not
> >possible to do anything else. So, it was somehow a kind of a
> >headache to found an easy solution with "popular" resistor values,
> >and keep the voltage step almost equal from switch to switch.
>
> You can do the matrix with resistors too. Think about it.
> I think even multiple key closures are possible. (maybe not all possible
> combos)
We did with resistors, I was explaining why we used the strange
configuration instead just 9 resistors in series. :)
Take a look at: http://www.ustr.net/electronics/diagrams.htm
Wagner.
1999\02\22@140455
by
White Horse Design
|
At 13:05 19/02/99 , ryan pogge wrote:
>>>We needed to scan 9 keys on a keyboard, and we
>>>had space only for 3 wires, no other microchip
>>>could be added to the circuit.
>>>How would you do it using a PIC as the mcu???
>>
>>Resistive network and ADC.
>
>was it a PIC with onboard ADC? you forgot to metion what PIC
>it was.
Since your question mandated the use of a PIC my answer obviously implies a
PIC with an ADC.
Your question was "how would you" not "how did you".
I haven't done it with a PIC before. I considered simply 10 resistors in
series with a switch from the junction of each from the 5V end (R1) to the
top of the 10th (R10) above GND. Thus the voltage levels at R10 (ADC i/p)
would be 5V, 500mV, 333mV, 250mV, 200mV, 167mV, 142mV, 125mV, 111mV.
A 5V 8 bit ADC would have 19mV resolution, accuracy say to 1 bit, so a bit
dodgy at the bottom end. A 12 or 14 bit ADC would be ok though. I know the
circuit is simplistic but I ain't designing one, just answering your
question! A matrix solution would be better of course (like yours).
Regards
Adrian
---
WWW WWW Adrian Gothard
WWW WW WWW White Horse Design
WWWWWWWWWW +44-385-970009 (Mobile/SMS), +44-118-962-8913/4 (voice/fax)
WWWW WWWW EraseMEwhd
KILLspamzetnet.co.uk, http://www.users.zetnet.co.uk/whd
---
Developers of GPS satellite-based tracking systems for vehicles/helicopters
1999\02\22@170925
by
Tony Nixon
> I haven't done it with a PIC before. I considered simply 10 resistors in
That's the reason I used a 317 regulator, so that the 'span' between
keys is relatively constant. I suppose a constant current source may do
the same.
The trouble is that some key pads have an on resistance tolerance upto
200R which can cause problems with low value resistors.
--
Best regards
Tony
Multimedia 16F84 Beginners PIC Tools.
** NEW PicNPro Programmer and Port Interface **
http://www.picnpoke.com
Email picnpokeEraseME
cdi.com.au
'2 Wire LCD Interface and LCD Page'
1999\04\20@180442
by
Myke Predko
Hi Folks,
I've <i>finally</i> gotten my two wire LCD Interface for the PICMicro
completed and put on my web page:
http://www.myke.com/engres/lcd.htm
Along with the two wire interface, I also added a table of character
addresses for different LCD types.
I would appreciate it if you could take a look at it and let me know what
you think,
myke
'[piclist] 1-wire sample code or tips?'
1999\04\30@174049
by
Lieven
I'm working on a PIC project that talks to a Dallas 1-wire part.
Unfortunately, I can't seem to get it to talk to me. Attaching
a scope shows a presence pulse but no response to my (seemingly
properly formed and timed, per my interpretation of the 1-wire
spec) transmission.
I'm surprised to say that neither the Dallas Semiconductor site,
nor the Microchip site, nor anyplace else I've searched on the
web, have any code samples for an iButton or 1-wire interface.
Can anyone point me to a site, or send me an example? C, assembly,
even pseudocode would be handy so I could confirm that my bit-level
signaling is correct. My project uses the deluxe 17C7xx series,
but I'm familiar with the lower end processors as well.
Thanks,
Lieven
'[piclist] 1-wire sample code or tips?'
1999\05\01@011714
by
roblid
1999\05\01@083611
by
goflo
|
Check your DS1820 pinout - The part acts as you describe
when power & gnd are reversed. Note that the TO-39 pinout
in the data sheet is a TOP view.
Guess how I figured this out... :)
Regards, Jack
Lieven wrote:
{Quote hidden}>
> I'm working on a PIC project that talks to a Dallas 1-wire part.
> Unfortunately, I can't seem to get it to talk to me. Attaching
> a scope shows a presence pulse but no response to my (seemingly
> properly formed and timed, per my interpretation of the 1-wire
> spec) transmission.
>
> I'm surprised to say that neither the Dallas Semiconductor site,
> nor the Microchip site, nor anyplace else I've searched on the
> web, have any code samples for an iButton or 1-wire interface.
>
> Can anyone point me to a site, or send me an example? C, assembly,
> even pseudocode would be handy so I could confirm that my bit-level
> signaling is correct. My project uses the deluxe 17C7xx series,
> but I'm familiar with the lower end processors as well.
>
> Thanks,
> Lieven
1999\05\01@094433
by
Bob Drzyzgula
|
Lieven,
In addition to Dallas' excellent tech brief mentioned by
Guy Robinson, you might check the following sites, both
of which contain information about and/or code samples
for interfacing the 1-wire devices with a PIC.
www.ccc.nottingham.ac.uk/~cczsteve/pic84.html
http://www.phanderson.com/
The following site offers a PC-based 1-wire to serial
port system; the proprietor is PIC-friendly (he offers
Linux-based PIC programming software) and may have some
tips for what you are trying to do as well:
http://www.nexuscomputing.com/
Also, the following app note contains 8051 assembly
source code for driving a 1-wire bus off a serial port,
which would be more helpful if you were using an 8051 :-)
but at least is a code sample from Dallas... It also
contains source in C and Pascal for driving a 1-wire bus
with an 8250-style UART.
http://www.dalsemi.com/DocControl/PDFs/app74.pdf
--Bob
On Fri, Apr 30, 1999 at 02:30:34PM -0700, Lieven wrote:
{Quote hidden}> I'm working on a PIC project that talks to a Dallas 1-wire part.
> Unfortunately, I can't seem to get it to talk to me. Attaching
> a scope shows a presence pulse but no response to my (seemingly
> properly formed and timed, per my interpretation of the 1-wire
> spec) transmission.
>
> I'm surprised to say that neither the Dallas Semiconductor site,
> nor the Microchip site, nor anyplace else I've searched on the
> web, have any code samples for an iButton or 1-wire interface.
>
> Can anyone point me to a site, or send me an example? C, assembly,
> even pseudocode would be handy so I could confirm that my bit-level
> signaling is correct. My project uses the deluxe 17C7xx series,
> but I'm familiar with the lower end processors as well.
>
> Thanks,
> Lieven
--
============================================================
Bob Drzyzgula It's not a problem
EraseMEbob
spamBeGonedrzyzgula.org until something bad happens
============================================================
'3-wire serial eeprom,'
1999\05\03@005535
by
Dave Schmidt
Is this typical? Just ran into this today.
I'm writing to a 93LC46A (microchip brand) serial EEprom.
After writing a byte to an address, then issuing a EWDS (erase/write
disable), if I immediately
try and read the same address (I waited 38 usec) I don't get the byte back.
If I wait a while (tried 10msec) after issuing the EWDS command, the byte
is read back properly.
Note that when I write the byte, I wait until the BUSY status is high
before issuing the EWDS command.
The Microchip data sheet says I only need to wait a minimum of 250ns after
issuing a
EWDS command. Only ERAL and WRAL take longer (6 - 15ms).
This screwed me up for a while! (looked fine until the read on the logic
analyzer!)
Dave
1999\05\03@011947
by
Dave Schmidt
Nevermind, wasn't polling the BUSY flag properly (boy do I feel lame).
Dave
'[piclist] 1-wire sample code or tips?'
1999\05\03@020937
by
Dr. Imre Bartfai
|
part 0 4730 bytes content-type:TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII; name="ibutton.src"On Fri, 30 Apr 1999, Lieven wrote:
> I'm working on a PIC project that talks to a Dallas 1-wire part.
> Unfortunately, I can't seem to get it to talk to me. Attaching
> a scope shows a presence pulse but no response to my (seemingly
> properly formed and timed, per my interpretation of the 1-wire
> spec) transmission.
>
> I'm surprised to say that neither the Dallas Semiconductor site,
> nor the Microchip site, nor anyplace else I've searched on the
> web, have any code samples for an iButton or 1-wire interface.
>
> Can anyone point me to a site, or send me an example? C, assembly,
> even pseudocode would be handy so I could confirm that my bit-level
> signaling is correct. My project uses the deluxe 17C7xx series,
> but I'm familiar with the lower end processors as well.
>
> Thanks,
> Lieven
>
>
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII; name="ibutton.src"
Content-ID: <TakeThisOuTPine.LNX.3.96.990503081050.221B
TakeThisOuTprof.pmmf.hu>
>
Content-Description:
;---------------------------------------------------
; This code fragment handles the Dallas iButton(TM)
;---------------------------------------------------
;
;Line must be equated as a pin
iButOrg = $
Org iBData
Cnt DS 1 ; counter
TCnt DS 1 ; delay counter
SSave DS 1 ; STATUS save cell
FamCod DS 1 ; Family code \
SerNo DS 6 ; serial number } do not separate!
CRC DS 1 ; CRC value /
Cmd DS 1 ; command/data cell
Acc DS 1 ; virtual accumulator
CSave EQU SSave.0
iBEnd EQU $
Org iButOrg
iButton Call _Init ; reset prom
Or W,#0 ; check for zero
SZ ; skip if good
Ret ; otherwise return
Mov W,#0Fh ; Read ROM command
Call _SndCmd
Call _GetByt ; receive byte
Mov FamCod,Cmd ; save family code
Mov Cnt,#6 ; length of serial number
Mov FSR,#SerNo ; serial number address
:loop Call _GetByt ; Receive SerNo
Mov INDF,Cmd ; received value
Inc FSR
DJNZ Cnt,:loop
Call _GetByt ; receive CRC
Mov FSR,#FamCod
Mov Cnt,#7 ; length
Call CRC8
;------ now xchg CRC & Cmd
Mov W,CRC
XOr W,Cmd ; here change Cmd with W
XOr Cmd,W
XOr W,Cmd
Mov CRC,W
;------
CSE CRC,Cmd ; received==calculated
Retw 2
Retw 0 ; good
_Init SetB RP0 ; select Bank #1
ClrB Line ; turn line to output
ClrB RP0 ; Bank #0 again
ClrB Line ; master reset
Call _Trst ; 500 usec delay
SetB RP0 ; Bank #1 again
SetB Line ; turn line to input
ClrB RP0 ; now Bank #0 again
Call _Tpdh ; recovery
Clr Cnt ; clear counter
:pres Call _T12u ; wait 15 usec
JB Line,:eoi ; if high again, end of init
Inc Cnt ; count length of presence pulse
CJAE Cnt,#20,:bad ; too long: shortcut
Jmp :pres
:eoi CJB Cnt,#1,:bad
Retw 0 ; iButton found
:bad Retw 1 ; iButton not found
_T12u Mov W,#3 ; for 1 usec / instruction!
:loop Add W,#255
JNZ :loop
Ret
_Tpdh Mov TCnt,#2 ; about 30 usec
Jmp _Trst:loop
_Trst Mov TCnt,#31 ; about 500 usec
:loop Call _T12u
DJNZ TCnt,:loop
Ret
_SndCmd Mov Cmd,W ; store command
Mov Cnt,#8 ; # of bits
:loop Rr Cmd ; LSB first
Call _SendC
DJNZ Cnt,:loop
Ret
_SendC Mov SSave,STATUS
SetB RP0 ; select Bank #1
ClrB Line ; turn line to output
ClrB RP0 ; Bank #0 again
ClrB Line ; low pulse
Mov W,#1 ; short pulse
Call _T12u:loop ; tlow1
JNB CSave,:Slot
SetB RP0 ; Bank #1
SetB Line ; turn to input
ClrB RP0
:Slot Call _Tpdh ; sampling window
Call _Tpdh ; sampling window
JB CSave,:ret ; return if 1
SetB RP0 ; Bank #1
SetB Line ; turn to input
ClrB RP0 ; Bank #0 again
:ret Ret
_GetByt Mov Cmd,#128 ; hibit as exit condition
:loop SetB RP0 ; select Bank #1
ClrB Line ; turn line to output
ClrB RP0 ; Bank #0 again
ClrB Line ; low pulse
Mov W,#1 ; short pulse
Call _T12u:loop ; tlow1
SetB RP0 ; Bank #1
SetB Line ; turn to input
ClrB RP0 ; Bank #0 again
Mov W,#1 ; short pulse
Call _T12u:loop ; tRDV
MovB C,Line ; line state
Rr Cmd ; put received bit
Mov SSave,Status ; save status register
Mov TCnt,#4 ; tSLOT
Call _Trst:loop ; time
JNB CSave,:loop ; hibit not reached yet?
Ret
CRC8 Clr CRC ; clear initial CRC
:loop Mov W,INDF ; fetch the byte
Call CRC8up ; update CRC
Inc FSR ; next pointer
DJNZ Cnt,:loop
Ret
CRC8up Mov SSave,W ; save bits to be shifted
Mov TCnt,#8 ; set shift=8bits
Mov W,SSave ;; restore result
:loop XOr W,CRC ; calculate CRC
Mov Acc,W ;; last CRC value
RR Acc ; move it to carry
JNC :Zero ; skip if data=0
XOr CRC,#18h ; update the CRC value
:Zero RR CRC ; position the new CRC
RR SSave ; position the next bit
Mov W,SSave ; use the remaining bits
DJNZ TCnt,:loop
Ret
'3-wire serial eeprom'
1999\05\03@091009
by
Wagner Lipnharski
Dave Schmidt wrote:
>
> Nevermind, wasn't polling the BUSY flag properly (boy do I feel lame).
Dave, the learning experience is something very fascinating, isn't?
mostly when we find out that "unknown very difficult tasks" are in real
very easy ones. Knowledge poke holes in concrete walls as a hot knife
in butter... I think you mispelled the word, it is not "lame", it is
"happy". :)
Wagner Lipnharski
'2-wire serial communication'
1999\05\06@091913
by
John Esposito
Hello all.
I am trying to implement a 2-wire serial communication link between
multiple PICs. I will have one master, with several remote slaves. The
slaves will each have a keypad, an LCD display, and an auxiliary output -
only 2 lines remain, one for the serial clock and serial data.
I have been having difficulty developing a protocol for the communication -
should the slaves poll the clock line or they be interrupted? If
interrupted, should they ACK before the master sends data?
I would appreciate any help/guidance on this matter.
Regards,
--John
1999\05\06@095854
by
Michael Rigby-Jones
Sounds like I2C to me. 8 bit transfers with a slave acknowledge at the end.
Implementing the master is a piece of cake, the slave is much harder but has
been done. The scenix web site has slave code as one of it's virtual
peripherals, you might get some ideas from that.
http://www.scenix.com/virtual/vp/index.html
Regards
Mike Rigby-Jones
> {Original Message removed}
'Parallel Port to SPI or microwire'
1999\05\13@174814
by
Jay.R.Vijay-Indra
Hi Fellow PIC'ers,
I am looking for a shareware/freeware to control a device with SPI serial
bus interface from the PC parllel port. Any ideas ?
Thanks in advace,
Jay
'[OT] Hot Wire'
1999\05\16@113922
by
Wagner Lipnharski
|
Hello forum members and friends,
I created a machine to cut 4'x8' styrofoam boards, using PC interface,
stepper motors control by Allegro chips, XY movement and so on, all
controlled by a microcontroller via serial communication. To cut the
Styrofoam it uses a Ni-Cr wire, AWG 30 (0.01") that has 6.5 (or 6.75)
Ohms/ft, requiring from 1.4 to 1.6 Amperes to generate the correct
heat. 4 to 6 inches of this wire can be powered by a common wall wart
6Vdc/1.5A.
I found this wire is some places around in US, but there was always a
high cost per foot, so I was forced to buy a big reel. Each machine use
only few feet of them, it will take a "million" machines to consume the
reel, so I decided to offer part of the reel by foot to the forum
members.
20 feet (6 meters) is only $12 (USA), $13 (Overseas), packing and
shipping included (regular mail envelope). If you are interested email
me for further details, (I also have a small quantity of stepper motors
I bought in excess).
Wagner Lipnharski
1999\05\17@093732
by
Andy Kunz
>20 feet (6 meters) is only $12 (USA), $13 (Overseas), packing and
>shipping included (regular mail envelope). If you are interested email
>me for further details, (I also have a small quantity of stepper motors
>I bought in excess).
I can buy it for $9/20' from hobby supply places.
Andy
==================================================================
Montana Design Tech Support - http://www.montanadesign.com
==================================================================
1999\05\17@110033
by
Wagner Lipnharski
|
Yeah, well, some hobby supply places I consulted they don't even know
what was the AWG number (or the resistance per foot) of the wire they
have, and they charge S+H. There is a company in California that has all
of this wires by foot, sell a minimum of $45 plus $5 S+H (cost almost
$1/ft).
Some interesting about professionalism; Talking to a dozen of big
wire/cable supplier companies around in Florida, Georgia, even New York
and Chicago, the sales people do not have the minimum clue or idea what
means Nickel-Chrome or Nickel-Chromium wire. To help them to understand,
I said that exist several type of materials electric wires are made
from, as copper, steel, aluminum, brass, iron, ... and asking to the guy
what other material he knows (hopping he knows Ni-Cr by any other name),
he answered plain and simple: "Fiber Optics"!!!... I couldn't hold my
open laugh on the phone. The guy was serious. He said "what!?!?".
Other company sales guy promptly asked all my company information (for
his database), and right after asked me to repeat (again) what I was
looking for, then he said directly "How many feet?", and then he
realized he had no idea what I was talking about (Nickel-Chrome). What
happened with people's brain and knowledge? I can expect this reaction
from a delivery pizza boy recently promoted to sales in a wire company,
but from a guy that works there at least 5 years and makes $18/hour?
Another big time company, more than 30 years in the market, selling all
kinds of wires and cables, heavy and small, communication cables and so
on, the sales people never heard about Nickel-Chrome wire (I heard he
asking loud in the room to the other sales people too). I asked the guy
how long he is been working in this field, he answered "16 years". I
just can't believe that we can call it "professionalism". It is like to
sell only "yellow chew gum", and never heard about the other colors...
for several years... and they claim they are there to help you when you
call, because they are specialists... ok, they could be, but, about
what? It is not about electrical wires for sure!
I would love to say the names of those companies, but them, it would be
a lack of "my professionalism", isn't?
Wagner.
Andy Kunz wrote:
{Quote hidden}>
> >20 feet (6 meters) is only $12 (USA), $13 (Overseas), packing and
> >shipping included (regular mail envelope). If you are interested email
> >me for further details, (I also have a small quantity of stepper motors
> >I bought in excess).
>
> I can buy it for $9/20' from hobby supply places.
>
> Andy
> ==================================================================
> Montana Design Tech Support -
http://www.montanadesign.com
> ==================================================================
1999\05\17@113425
by
Andy Kunz
>Another big time company, more than 30 years in the market, selling all
>kinds of wires and cables, heavy and small, communication cables and so
>on, the sales people never heard about Nickel-Chrome wire (I heard he
Of course not. NiCr isn't used as "wire" or "cable" - it's a specialty
product. That's why it costs more.
The same reason the guy in the electric supply store (or your local Radio
Shack <G>) doesn't know what an IC socket is.
Andy
==================================================================
Montana Design Tech Support - http://www.montanadesign.com
==================================================================
1999\05\17@122416
by
Gary Crowell
|
Sad to say, the best answer I've found is not to deal with people unless
absoultely necessary. In this case I would suggest http://www.mcmaster.com,
find wire, select resistance wire, & check the second .pdf page.
guages, resistance, and no know-nothings to deal with.
Gary Crowell
Micron Technology
Wagner Lipnharski wrote:
{Quote hidden}>
> Yeah, well, some hobby supply places I consulted they don't even know
> what was the AWG number (or the resistance per foot) of the wire they
> have, and they charge S+H. There is a company in California that has all
> of this wires by foot, sell a minimum of $45 plus $5 S+H (cost almost
> $1/ft).
>
> Some interesting about professionalism; Talking to a dozen of big
> wire/cable supplier companies around in Florida, Georgia, even New York
> and Chicago, the sales people do not have the minimum clue or idea what
> means Nickel-Chrome or Nickel-Chromium wire. To help them to understand,
> I said that exist several type of materials electric wires are made
> from, as copper, steel, aluminum, brass, iron, ... and asking to the guy
> what other material he knows (hopping he knows Ni-Cr by any other name),
> he answered plain and simple: "Fiber Optics"!!!... I couldn't hold my
> open laugh on the phone. The guy was serious. He said "what!?!?".
>
> Other company sales guy promptly asked all my company information (for
> his database), and right after asked me to repeat (again) what I was
> looking for, then he said directly "How many feet?", and then he
> realized he had no idea what I was talking about (Nickel-Chrome). What
> happened with people's brain and knowledge? I can expect this reaction
> from a delivery pizza boy recently promoted to sales in a wire company,
> but from a guy that works there at least 5 years and makes $18/hour?
>
> Another big time company, more than 30 years in the market, selling all
> kinds of wires and cables, heavy and small, communication cables and so
> on, the sales people never heard about Nickel-Chrome wire (I heard he
> asking loud in the room to the other sales people too). I asked the guy
> how long he is been working in this field, he answered "16 years". I
> just can't believe that we can call it "professionalism". It is like to
> sell only "yellow chew gum", and never heard about the other colors...
> for several years... and they claim they are there to help you when you
> call, because they are specialists... ok, they could be, but, about
> what? It is not about electrical wires for sure!
>
> I would love to say the names of those companies, but them, it would be
> a lack of "my professionalism", isn't?
>
> Wagner.
>
> Andy Kunz wrote:
> >
> > >20 feet (6 meters) is only $12 (USA), $13 (Overseas), packing and
> > >shipping included (regular mail envelope). If you are interested email
> > >me for further details, (I also have a small quantity of stepper motors
> > >I bought in excess).
> >
> > I can buy it for $9/20' from hobby supply places.
> >
> > Andy
> > ==================================================================
> > Montana Design Tech Support -
http://www.montanadesign.com
> > ==================================================================
1999\05\17@134033
by
William Chops Westfield
In the US, it's usually called nichrome wire.
If you're talking to the people who make communications cables and such,
it's not surprising that they don't know what you're talking about. They're
all worried about insulation displacement, twists per inch, shielding, plenum
rating, UL approval, and so on. You need to backtrack to the people who make
WIRE out of METAL, not cables out of wire. Probably you need to find someone
who specializes in somthing other than copper.
I've seen multi-thousand foot spools of "resistance wire" (which is NOT
nichrome, generally) for sale more often at metal surplus dealers than
electronics dealers, for instance.
$12/20feet is NOT a good price - if you paid anywhere close to that much
in bulk (ie by the pound, for 8oz or more of wire), then you really got
ripped off...
BillW
1999\05\17@155849
by
wagnerl
|
Now I got lost, which is the speciality of the company who sells Ni-Cr
wire? I only found it in companies who sell wires, cables and heating
elements, not in drugstores, pharmacies or bakeries.
By the way, if I would sell fish, it would be good to know also about
whales, even if I don't have them for sale... right? General
information and knowledge never did hurt nobody, it is good for business
and make people look a little bit different from monkeys.
It is so easy to change the car engine's oil, but 99.9% of the owners
don't have a minimum clue about how to change the oil filter, or at
least where is it. I call this laziness and lack of interest. A lot of
this people complain about lack of luck in life (read money here), while
in true they never were prepared for the real opportunities.
Wagner
Andy Kunz wrote:
{Quote hidden}>
> >Another big time company, more than 30 years in the market, selling all
> >kinds of wires and cables, heavy and small, communication cables and so
> >on, the sales people never heard about Nickel-Chrome wire (I heard he
>
> Of course not. NiCr isn't used as "wire" or "cable" - it's a specialty
> product. That's why it costs more.
>
> The same reason the guy in the electric supply store (or your local Radio
> Shack <G>) doesn't know what an IC socket is.
>
> Andy
>
> ==================================================================
> Montana Design Tech Support -
http://www.montanadesign.com
> ==================================================================
1999\05\18@103046
by
Gerhard Fiedler
At 15:54 05/17/99 -0400, Wagner Lipnharski wrote:
>Now I got lost, which is the speciality of the company who sells Ni-Cr
>wire? I only found it in companies who sell wires, cables and heating
>elements, not in drugstores, pharmacies or bakeries.
i don't know to whom you talked, but you got me curious, and so i did a
quick search in yahoo and came up with a number of companies who at least
have this nichrome wire in their web sites -- a good indication that their
sales people at least have heard of it :) or is it to these companies that
you talked to?
>By the way, if I would sell fish, it would be good to know also about
>whales, even if I don't have them for sale... right?
yes, maybe about whales, but how about some rare fish you and i have never
heard of? they maybe haven't either... :)
ge
1999\05\18@113339
by
Wagner Lipnharski
|
Gerhard Fiedler wrote:
> i don't know to whom you talked, but you got me curious, and so i did a
> quick search in yahoo and came up with a number of companies who at least
> have this nichrome wire in their web sites -- a good indication that their
> sales people at least have heard of it :) or is it to these companies that
> you talked to?
Yes, for the Internet sake, those were the only ones I found. I tried
several other from industrial supplier catalogs, yellow pages and other
sources... Internet saved the day :)
Ni-Cr wire is a little bit more industrial base than for example
magnetic wire, it was very easy to find 10 years ago, very few people
still rebuilding transformers and motors at home.
So repeating what someone said weeks ago; "If you can't find at
Digikey..." :)
--------------------------------------------------------
Wagner Lipnharski - UST Research Inc. - Orlando, Florida
Forum and microcontroller web site: http://www.ustr.net
Microcontrollers Survey: http://www.ustr.net/tellme.htm
1999\05\19@152522
by
Eric
Hi, all,
I have been looking for the Ni-Cr wire for a long time, too.
Finally, I got it (believe me, it can be very very difficult!)
For those interested, pls check out:
HOSKINS, manufacturing company
in Michigan
Tel: 810/231/9342
They are the expert! All AWGs available. I purchased 2000 feet roll at
US$38 only.
Hope it helps.
Eric
Andy Kunz wrote:
>
> >20 feet (6 meters) is only $12 (USA), $13 (Overseas), packing and
> >shipping included (regular mail envelope). If you are interested
email
> >me for further details, (I also have a small quantity of stepper
motors
> >I bought in excess).
>
> I can buy it for $9/20' from hobby supply places.
>
> Andy
> ==================================================================
> Montana Design Tech Support - http://www.montanadesign.com
> ==================================================================
'Example of Two Wire Power/Data'
1999\06\04@095116
by
Thomas McGahee
|
I thought I would add a little something to the current
discussion concerning two wire power/data systems.
Some years ago I designed a voting machine that used a two-wire
system to provide both data and power to 25 voting stations.
The idea was to keep wiring and connector costs to a minimum.
The voting unit was a portable setup that could be set up
and taken down rapidly.
Each voting station consisted of a small plastic box which had
a three position switch (allowing yes/no/abstain votes to be cast).
Each station had a female receptacle and a male plug on the end of
a 6 foot cable. This allowed the units to be daisy-chained.
The Master Unit consisted of a power supply, PIC microcontroller,
LCD readout, and a two-wire interface circuit.
Each voting station connected directly to the ground wire.
The power/data wire connected to the station at three places:
1) to a diode that connected to an electrolytic cap to
provide power to the PIC.
2) to the collector of an NPN transistor whose base was driven
by an output pin. A high to the base (via a base resistor)
would cause the transistor to pull the power/data line low.
3) to a PIC input pin.
At the Master Unit I provided a constant current source of 100 ma.
This was clamped to a maximum output VOLTAGE of 5.1V using a
power zener diode. The constant current level was chosen to be
large enough to power all 25 stations, but small enough so that
the NPN transistor at each station was adequate to drop the
voltage to near-zero volts when the transistor was on.
Most of the time the power/data wire resided at +5 volts and kept
the PICs running. Short periods of data bursts on the wire
were not a problem, as the local capacitor for each PIC ensured
that the PIC saw only a slight reduction in voltage.
The Master Unit would send out addresses and requests, and the
appropriate local PIC would respond. Each PIC had a unique
8 bit address to which it responded.
Due to the nature of the power/data structure the speed of data
transmission was not exactly blazingly fast, but it was fast
enough for the application.
These two-wire systems work well in a Master/Slave environment
where the Slave devices only respond to requests from the Master.
As an aside, I used RC timing instead of crystals to keep the
cost low. To ensure accurate transmission and reception of
data I used a self-clocking/self-timing scheme instead of the
more usual uart scheme. This eliminated frame timing errors
at the expense of a slightly more involved software routine.
But hey, we had to give the PICs SOMETHING to do!
Oh, yeah. Eventually I modified the system so that it had
four separate two-wire links. Each could handle 25 units
for a total of 100 units. Each of the four links had its
own constant current/voltage limited supply (all driven
from one common 12 V power supply). The Master Unit sent
identical address/request data down all four links at once,
and used 4 diodes to "OR" the data into a single input
line at the Master. (Cathodes to each link, Anodes in common
connected to input with active pullup via 10K resistor).
I share this in the hope that someone out there might find
it useful. I do not present it as "the" solution, but
only as "a" solution that in some cases may be just what
is needed.
Fr. Thomas McGahee
1999\06\04@110923
by
Bernhard Kraft
|
On Fri, 4 Jun 1999, Thomas McGahee wrote:
>I thought I would add a little something to the current
>discussion concerning two wire power/data systems.
>
>1) to a diode that connected to an electrolytic cap to
> provide power to the PIC.
>
>2) to the collector of an NPN transistor whose base was driven
> by an output pin. A high to the base (via a base resistor)
> would cause the transistor to pull the power/data line low.
>
>3) to a PIC input pin.
>
So that's exactly what I did. Just that my "voting station" was a key
transmitting data to a receiver which opened my garage door. The key had
to being kept very small ... I don't want to carry around a huge "thing"
to open my garage door.
I have a picture of the sender (the "key") and the receiver (next to the
garage door) at :
http://members.xoom.com/kraftb2/send.jpg
===================================================================
Kraft Bernhard aka. Krufti /"\
ICQ# 3672982 \ / ASCII RIPPON CAMPAIGN
X AGAINST HTML MAIL
/ \
===================================================================
1999\06\04@235317
by
Donald Riedinger
|
Thomas McGahee wrote:
> I thought I would add a little something to the current
> discussion concerning two wire power/data systems.
> Some years ago I designed a voting machine that used a two-wire
> system to provide both data and power to 25 voting stations.
> ...
Thanks for all the details. That's just what I was thinking of only
with all of the bugs worked out. And you're right. There's no need to
put a carrier signal on the data/power wire. Might as well leave it
high as much as possible.
I was only worried about a master and one slave. But Wow! That answers
my questions. Thank you very much.
[on the other side of the coin]
Paul Fletcher wrote:
> If its low voltage motor/lamp control you need and the power line can
> be about 16v AC then I have an abstract solution. The NMRA have a
> standard for the control of model railways using DCC (Digital
> Command Control). The idea is each motor (loco) has a assigned address
> and packet data is sent down the AC line which is collected and > decoded
> by a MPU within the loco body. The AC supply therefore becomes the > data carr
ier and motor drive current.
> An overview and the spec info can be found at
> http://users.vnet.net/paulrver/dccbasic.html
I didn't know any thing like this DCC existed. I haven't looked at it
real closely yet. I just wanted to say thanks right away. Looks like
pulsating DC of one, of two frequencies, representing logic 1 or 0.
They are careful to maintain a 50% duty cycle. I don't know if the vary
amplitude for train motor speed but I suppose they could. It's FM or
exactly like a 300 baud modem on a phone line only different. I didn't
get to the model train end of it yet but I imagine they half wave
rectify it and filter it but maybe they don't have to with a motor.
You could use all the tricks they do with the up to 56k modem, PM,
quadrature modulation and such to up the data rate. You are not limited
on bandwidth like a phone line. You could use Cat5 or coax and really
make it sing. Yeah, I know. It's just a LAN only with parasitic power
for the slave PIC's. No big deal. And how do you send data the other
way? Like a modem?
I'm going to try 'em both. Thanks Paul and thanks to everybody else on
this thread.
'Wireless alarm project'
1999\06\15@200059
by
Greg Hastings
<x-flowed>Hi,
I have just finished a simple alarm project and thought it would
be neat if the alarm circuit could be located in our garage and a
loudspeaker could be up in our house so only we could hear it and
not the neighbors.
Can anyone recommend a fairly inexpensive way to send the signal
over radio waves or another method that is wireless? Perhaps point
me out to some web pages and give me advice if you have had a
similar experience.
I recall an article in Nuts and Volts using the Ming TR/RC at 1200
bps but those are too expensive and probably offer more than I need
for this simple project.
Thanks,
Greg (ghpoe
spam_OUThotmail.com)
_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com
</x-flowed>
1999\06\15@204504
by
Lynx {Glenn Jones}
|
Just buy a cheap pair of walkie talkies at a second hand store. set it up
so the "morse code key" is pressed when alarm is triped, then you can make
a simple circuit that detects the tone and truns on your loudspeaker.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
A member of the PI-100 Club:
3.1415926535897932384626433832795028841971693993751
058209749445923078164062862089986280348253421170679
On Tue, 15 Jun 1999, Greg Hastings wrote:
{Quote hidden}> Hi,
> I have just finished a simple alarm project and thought it would
> be neat if the alarm circuit could be located in our garage and a
> loudspeaker could be up in our house so only we could hear it and
> not the neighbors.
> Can anyone recommend a fairly inexpensive way to send the signal
> over radio waves or another method that is wireless? Perhaps point
> me out to some web pages and give me advice if you have had a
> similar experience.
> I recall an article in Nuts and Volts using the Ming TR/RC at 1200
> bps but those are too expensive and probably offer more than I need
> for this simple project.
>
> Thanks,
> Greg (
spamghpoe@spam@
hotmail.com)
>
>
> _______________________________________________________________
> Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit
http://www.msn.com
>
1999\06\22@225010
by
Dave & Ann Scott
|
This is a topic I've also got an interest in.....it seems to come up
periodically so it would be good if we could figure out the recommended
method and FAQ it......I've archived several threads of messages I suspect
are related.....(but I haven't had a chance to wade thru them)......if you
have a chance to go thru them, please let us know.
Possible related discussions:
Subject: Cheap 900MHz RF low-speed short-range data solutions?
Where: piclist
When: 4/28-29/99
Subject: PIC and RF link (FRID?)
Where: piclist
When: 4/22 - 5/30 1999
Subject: Radio comms
Where: Piclist
When: 5/15-19/99
Subject: Radio link
Where: Piclist
When: 5/5-6/99
DScott
----------
{Quote hidden}> From: Greg Hastings <
spam_OUTghpoeTakeThisOuT
KILLspamHOTMAIL.COM>
> To:
RemoveMEPICLIST@spam@
spamMITVMA.MIT.EDU
> Subject: Wireless alarm project
> Date: Tuesday, June 15, 1999 6:49 PM
>
> Hi,
> I have just finished a simple alarm project and thought it would
> be neat if the alarm circuit could be located in our garage and a
> loudspeaker could be up in our house so only we could hear it and
> not the neighbors.
> Can anyone recommend a fairly inexpensive way to send the signal
> over radio waves or another method that is wireless? Perhaps point
> me out to some web pages and give me advice if you have had a
> similar experience.
> I recall an article in Nuts and Volts using the Ming TR/RC at 1200
> bps but those are too expensive and probably offer more than I need
> for this simple project.
>
> Thanks,
> Greg (
RemoveMEghpoeRemoveME
TakeThisOuThotmail.com)
>
>
> _______________________________________________________________
> Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit
http://www.msn.com
'2 wire SPI?'
1999\07\12@134041
by
eplus1
|
Question: Can SI and SO be shorted on SPI interface to Atmel AT45D081?
Has anyone been crazy enough to connect both SI and SO from the AT45D081 (or
any other SPI device) to the same PIC pin? From reading the data sheet
http://www.atmel.com/atmel/acrobat/doc0871.pdf ), it appears that SO is
never driven by the slave when the master needs to be driving SI.
Also, how about combining SCK and /CS via a RC delay to derive /CS from SCK?
The problem there seems to be that the waveforms in the data sheet show SCH
staying low when /CS goes high at the end of a sequence if SCH was low when
/CS went low or staying high when /CS goes high if it was high when /CS went
low so a simple RC directly from SCH to /CS is apparently out of the
picture. Or is it ok to raise SCK once more at the end of the sequence to
get /CS back up? Maybe a flip/flop that gets reset when SCH is stable after
changing? Not worth it?
Why can't they just do IIC?
James Newton, webmaster http://get.to/techref
jamesnewtonTakeThisOuT
@spam@geocities.com 1-619-652-0593 phone
1999\07\12@205747
by
Fredric White
'2-wire/4-wire I/F'
1999\09\14@041056
by
Duilio Foschi
I'd like to attach my POTS to the EAR and MIC ports of my voice modem.
I heard that this can be done by means of a 2-wire/4-wire interface.
Where can I find a complete schematics of this interface ?
Thank you
Duilio Foschi
'Help! 6 wire Stepper motor wire hookup- different '
1999\09\17@143440
by
Jon Petty
Hi
I just started to get my circuit ready for my first stepper motor project. It
is a small 6 wire stepper. I have two styles of steppers the colors are
(blue,brn,red,wt,brn,orange) and the other (yellow,brn,blk,red,brn,orange). I
bought them surplus from All Electronics.
How do I determine which wires are common power and which wires go to coil
1,2,3,4 respectively?
Thanks
Jon
1999\09\17@150930
by
Dave VanHorn
|
> How do I determine which wires are common power and which wires go to coil
> 1,2,3,4 respectively?
An ohm meter.
You have two sets of three wires. A quick continuity check will show which
are in which set.
Looking at one set, you have Center, PHA and PHB If you take one of the
three wires, and measure R to the two other wires, then you'll either get a
low and a high reading or two equal readings. If it's two equals, then you
have the center. Mark that one, and do the same for the other side.
If it's unequal, then the lower reading was the center, mark that one, and
do the same for the other side.
Now that you have two centers, and four phases, you need to get the phase
order right. Connect the two center leads to a battery, (You'll have to
experiment to find the right voltage, all you need is enough to spin it.)
Tape a flag on the motor shaft, and then tap the negative battery lead to
each phase lead in some order. Keep swapping wires until you have a constant
motion in one direction when you go ABCDABCD Now, just mark the wires
A,B,C, and D, and you're done.
1999\09\17@170323
by
TIM
|
use an ohmmeter
resistance setting and make a drawing
u have 6 wires
make drwg a circle to indicate motor ..and three wires to top and three
wires to bottom
one wire on top and one wire on bottom lable ct..4 center tap....center taps
will eventually tie together eventually......same connection.....
use ohm meter and start probing
clip on a wire and test 4 continuity some ohmage and not infinity
.......open circuit...no!
there shall be only 2 wires that will show continuity with respect (ref) the
one that you have clipped to as a common (ref)to one of the ct ...center
taped wire,,,,,got me so far?
start labeling the colors
a full winding will have say 100 ohms resistance.......while the center tap
to one side of the winding shall show almost half of the value say 50
ohms..........threre will be 2 sets of 3 wires...............once you have
found the ct..center taps now what is the voltage of the motor?
12 vdc or 6 vdc?
get a battery or a well filtered supply pwr pak of that value(i.e
voltage) and take ground to the common tie of ct.center taps.....common
ground of motor ct.......
touch one lead at a time with the positive lead of the supply...notice a
small step in the rotation of motor..output shaft...... keep trying this
will get fustrating i know have done so many times..keep at it.....find the
right sequence for a steady rotation step .........you must make at least 8
to 10 counts to be sure of rotation......
most times a piece of masking tape on the motor out put shaft helps..like a
flag to see better the rotation.........
please e-mail me directly as not to disturb the list if you need
help.....tim
{Original Message removed}
1999\09\17@170537
by
Stevens, Kurt
|
Sounds like center tapped dual phase unipolar steppers. If so, you have two
coils and two center taps, one for each coil. My first guess would be that
the two same colored wires are the taps, brown in both of your cases. To
find which wires belong to each center tap and verify which wire is the
center tap, use an ohmmeter. You will measure infinite resistance between
any two wires that are not of the same coil, you will measure twice the
resistance from end tap to end tap that you will measure from center tap to
end tap. So, if in the case of your first motor, lets assume that
blue-brown-red is end-center-end of one coil and white-brown-orange is
end-center-end of the other coil. You might measure 20 ohms from blue to
brown and 40 ohms from blue to red. Group your coil wires first, find the
center taps next. Then the fun begins. Now you have to find out your step
order. That is a trial and error process. Hook it up to your driver
according to center tap and if your driver doesn't spin it, but wiggles it,
swap the two end taps of a single coil with each other for starters. If that
doesn't work, ask for more help. Have fun!
Kurt Stevens
{Quote hidden}> ----------
> From: Jon Petty[SMTP:
Phxsys3TakeThisOuT
spamBeGoneAOL.COM]
> Sent: Friday, September 17, 1999 2:32 PM
> To:
spamPICLISTTakeThisOuT
mitvma.mit.edu
> Subject: Help! 6 wire Stepper motor wire hookup- different colors
>
> Hi
>
> I just started to get my circuit ready for my first stepper motor project.
> It
> is a small 6 wire stepper. I have two styles of steppers the colors are
> (blue,brn,red,wt,brn,orange) and the other
> (yellow,brn,blk,red,brn,orange). I
> bought them surplus from All Electronics.
>
> How do I determine which wires are common power and which wires go to coil
> 1,2,3,4 respectively?
>
> Thanks
>
> Jon
>
1999\09\17@183734
by
Erik Reikes
At 02:32 PM 9/17/99 -0400, you wrote:
>Hi
>
>I just started to get my circuit ready for my first stepper motor project. It
>is a small 6 wire stepper. I have two styles of steppers the colors are
>(blue,brn,red,wt,brn,orange) and the other (yellow,brn,blk,red,brn,orange). I
>bought them surplus from All Electronics.
>
>How do I determine which wires are common power and which wires go to coil
>1,2,3,4 respectively?
A multimeter and some methodical probing...
-Erik Reikes
>
>Thanks
>
>Jon
'[OT] Wireless network via cordless phone'
1999\09\17@193148
by
erik
Hello,
Sorry for the OT but I'm interested in some feedback from the most
knowledgeable group I know.
Could a standard 900 MHz cordless phone transfer data reliably?
I have an unattached garage where my PIC burning PC resides. I'd like to
network it with the PC in the house. I'm afraid that wire is out of the
question so I need an affordable (cheap) wireless solution.
I've been toying with the idea of using a cordless phone. The modem of
one PC connected the phone's base unit and the modem of the other PC
connected to the handset. Transmission distance requirements are less
than 30 ft.
Any thoughts on this?
Thanks,
Erik
1999\09\18@065027
by
Agnes en Henk Tobbe
->Could a standard 900 MHz cordless phone transfer data reliably?
Those cordless phones are digital. are they not? So a matter of protocol?
Henk VK2GWK
'Help! 6 wire Stepper motor wire hookup- different '
1999\09\18@151714
by
russellh
|
Jon Petty wrote:
>
> Hi
>
> I just started to get my circuit ready for my first stepper motor project. It
> is a small 6 wire stepper. I have two styles of steppers the colors are
> (blue,brn,red,wt,brn,orange) and the other (yellow,brn,blk,red,brn,orange). I
> bought them surplus from All Electronics.
<snip>
The Brown wires are the commons. Blue and red are the ends of one
coil, white and orange the ends of the other.
The one with yellow and black wires is similar.
The browns aren't common to each other, you must do that yourself.
A quick check of a stepper is to plug an LED into the connector, and
spin the shaft. The LED will light if the two pins of the connector go
to the same coil, one to common and the other to one end.
Hooking the LED up to the ends of the coil produces no light.
> Thanks
>
> Jon
All right. I like those steppers, $1.25 each in quantities of 10. With
a lead screw and nut! Can't beat the price.
Russell Hedges
1999\09\20@084039
by
Jon Petty
|
part 0 2247 bytes content-type:multipart/mixed; boundary="part2_8bd1050b.25141a39_boundary" (decoded 7bit)
I used an ohm meter and a little trial and error and figured it out so
please ignore
Jon
In a message dated 9/17/99 3:27:05 PM US Mountain Standard Time, Phxsys3
writes:
<< Hi
I just started to get my circuit ready for my first stepper motor project.
It is a small 6 wire stepper. I have two styles of steppers the colors are
(blue,brn,red,wt,brn,orange) and the other (yellow,brn,blk,red,brn,orange). I
bought them surplus from All Electronics.
How do I determine which wires are common power and which wires go to coil
1,2,3,4 respectively?
Thanks
Jon
-----------------
Return-path: .....Phxsys3
spamBeGoneaol.com
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Full-name: Phxsys3
Message-ID: <RemoveME8e081635.25141a39spam
KILLspamaol.com>
Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 18:27:05 EDT
Subject: Help! 6 wire Stepper motor wire hookup- different colors
To: STOPspamPICLISTEraseME
mitvma.mit.edu, stampsspamBeGone
parallaxinc.com, PHXSYS@spam@
aol.com
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="part2_8bd1050b.25141a39_boundary"
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Hi
I just started to get my circuit ready for my first stepper motor project. It
is a small 6 wire stepper. I have two styles of steppers the colors are
(blue,brn,red,wt,brn,orange) and the other (yellow,brn,blk,red,brn,orange). I
bought them surplus from All Electronics.
How do I determine which wires are common power and which wires go to coil
1,2,3,4 respectively?
Thanks
Jon
Return-path: spam_OUTPhxsys3
spamaol.com
From: Phxsys3spam_OUT
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Full-name: Phxsys3
Message-ID: <spam57b9f16b.2513e341spamBeGone
aol.com>
Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 14:32:33 EDT
Subject: Help! 6 wire Stepper motor wire hookup- different colors
To: spamPICLISTRemoveME
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Hi
I just started to get my circuit ready for my first stepper motor project. It
is a small 6 wire stepper. I have two styles of steppers the colors are
(blue,brn,red,wt,brn,orange) and the other (yellow,brn,blk,red,brn,orange). I
bought them surplus from All Electronics.
How do I determine which wires are common power and which wires go to coil
1,2,3,4 respectively?
Thanks
Jon
1999\09\20@091138
by
Jon Petty
|
part 0 1219 bytes content-type:text/plain; charset="us-ascii" (decoded 7bit)
I just started to get my circuit ready for my first stepper motor project. It
is a small 6 wire stepper. I have two styles of steppers the colors are
(blue,brn,red,wt,brn,orange) and the other (yellow,brn,blk,red,brn,orange). I
bought them surplus from All Electronics.
How do I determine which wires are common power and which wires go to coil
1,2,3,4 respectively?
Thanks
Jon
Return-path: Phxsys3spam_OUT
TakeThisOuTaol.com
From: spamBeGonePhxsys3spam
spamBeGoneaol.com
Full-name: Phxsys3
Message-ID: <@spam@57b9f16b.2513e341spam
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Date: Fri, 17 Sep 1999 14:32:33 EDT
Subject: Help! 6 wire Stepper motor wire hookup- different colors
To: KILLspamPICLIST
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Hi
I just started to get my circuit ready for my first stepper motor project. It
is a small 6 wire stepper. I have two styles of steppers the colors are
(blue,brn,red,wt,brn,orange) and the other (yellow,brn,blk,red,brn,orange). I
bought them surplus from All Electronics.
How do I determine which wires are common power and which wires go to coil
1,2,3,4 respectively?
Thanks
Jon
1999\09\20@101043
by
Wagner Lipnharski
|
Jon Petty wrote:
> I just started to get my circuit ready for my first stepper motor project. It
> is a small 6 wire stepper. I have two styles of steppers the colors are
> (blue,brn,red,wt,brn,orange) and the other (yellow,brn,blk,red,brn,orange). I
> bought them surplus from All Electronics.
>
> How do I determine which wires are common power and which wires go to coil
> 1,2,3,4 respectively?
Jon, six wires means the two coils are apart, 3 wires per coil.
If you have an Ohmmeter, just measure the resistance between any 2
wires, when you find an open circuit, it means both wires are not from
the same coil, then isolate one. When you isolate the single coil 3
wires, you will have 3 measurements between them, the highest resistance
means the not used wire is the center tap, and goes to +Power or Ground
(according to your unipolar drivers), while the other two wires goes to
the drivers. The same for the other coil.
If you don't have an Ohmmeter, connect a small lamp (Christmas tree lamp
is ok) to any two wires of the stepper and rotate the motor shaft by
hand vigorously, the two wires that makes the lamp lit brightness are
the extremes of the coil, while the low brightness identify the center
tap. The same experience is just shorting circuit any two wires
together, heavy load when rotating the motor shaft identifies the
extremes of the any coil, while light load means the center tap
connected to any extreme. This effect is because the stepper acts as an
generator when its shaft is externally rotated.
If you are planning to use bipolar connection, just forget the center
wire and use only the two that shows the highest resistance, connecting
them to the bridge.
Wagner.
1999\09\20@135248
by
Jon Petty
Thanks for all the help
The scope method I found to be the easiest as described in the app note sent
to me by stevebKILLspam
.....kcbbs.gen.nz. It was detailed and easy to understand.
Thanks again everyone
Jon
1999\09\20@145339
by
Andy Kunz
>How do I determine which wires are common power and which wires go to coil
>1,2,3,4 respectively?
With an ohmmeter. Draw a schematic of a motor, then measure the resistance
between each point. This will tell you.
Andy
==================================================================
Eternity is only a heartbeat away - are you ready? Ask me how!
------------------------------------------------------------------
andyspamBeGone
rc-hydros.com http://www.rc-hydros.com - Race Boats
andy
spam_OUTmontanadesign.com http://www.montanadesign.com - Electronics
==================================================================
'[OT] 2-4 wire hybrid'
1999\09\27@104039
by
tec
All:
I'm looking at simulating a telco interface to transmit and recieve
audio as well as power a phone. Does anybody know of any reference
designs especially for a 2-4wire hybrid circuit?
I don't need ring generation. It will be only for DTMF transmit/receive
and audio.
Thanks,
Todd
'Chip on board assembly (wire bonding)'
1999\09\30@122258
by
Phillip Vogel
|
Hi-
I'm working on a project that will be in huge production (1 million pieces per
year for three years). The product has to be assembled with chip on board
technology, in order to fit into its rather tiny package. I've lined up an
assembly shop for production, but I have no way to prototype this product.
I've modeled it with through hole parts, and could also do it with smt, but
that still won't get me into a package that's close to actual size.
So, does anyone out there do this kind of work? Can you recommend someone?
BTW, though I'm specifically looking for prototypes now, I'm not married to
the production shop, and it's still open for discussion.
You can respond directly to the list, or to me at the address below. Phone,
fax, email, snail mail, smoke signals, whatever.
Oh yeah, there's a PIC in this thing :-)
Thanks,
Phillip
--
Phillip M. Vogel, President | "It's not what you've been taught,
Bartal Design Group, Inc. | it's what you've learned." (me)
318 Marlboro Road | +1-201-567-1343 FAX:+1-201-568-2891
Englewood, NJ 07631 USA | .....phillipRemoveME
KILLspambartal.com
1999\09\30@182907
by
TIM
hello......what is it that you need to prototype? i probably can do
it.maybe.send me some e mail if it is pcb's send me a acrobat pdf file and
i'll take a look....tim
{Original Message removed}
1999\09\30@213722
by
Russell McMahon
|
Phillip,
There's a man that I have dealings with in Taiwan who uses PIC's in chip on
board configuration.
This is done for him by people who do his electronic work for him.
He does high volume exercise equipment for sale into the USA.
You could consider him as a last resort to query if others can't help.
If needs be, let me know and I'll pass your specific copy on to him.
Russell McMahon
_____________________________
>From another world - http://www.easttimor.com
What can one man* do?
Help the hungry at no cost to yourself!
at http://www.thehungersite.com/
(* - or woman, child or internet enabled intelligent entity :-))
>I'm working on a project that will be in huge production (1 million pieces
per
{Quote hidden}>year for three years). The product has to be assembled with chip on board
>technology, in order to fit into its rather tiny package. I've lined up an
>assembly shop for production, but I have no way to prototype this product.
>I've modeled it with through hole parts, and could also do it with smt, but
>that still won't get me into a package that's close to actual size.
>
>So, does anyone out there do this kind of work? Can you recommend someone?
>BTW, though I'm specifically looking for prototypes now, I'm not married to
>the production shop, and it's still open for discussion.
>
>You can respond directly to the list, or to me at the address below. Phone,
>fax, email, snail mail, smoke signals, whatever.
>
>Oh yeah, there's a PIC in this thing :-)
'solid state switches for signal wires'
1999\09\30@221444
by
Jon Petty
Hi everyone
I need my PIC to intercept some sensor signals (when needed) and also have
the ability to pass them through. I have used small relays for this before. I
don't have the room on the board to put relays. We are talking small signal
current less then 2mA.
What kind of solid state switches are there that don't have a voltage drop. I
don't want to affect the signal.
I have never used bus drivers would something like that work? Could you
recommend Part numbers?
Any other ideas?
Jon
1999\09\30@224151
by
David Covick
Jon,
You could try the Analog Devices ADG751, ADG752, ADG714 or ADG715
These have about 2 to 15 ohm "on" resistance depending which one you select.
IIC or SPI interface on the 714 and 715.
http://www.analog.com
David
> Hi everyone
>
> I need my PIC to intercept some sensor signals (when needed) and also have
> the ability to pass them through. I have used small relays for this
before. I
> don't have the room on the board to put relays. We are talking small
signal
> current less then 2mA.
>
> What kind of solid state switches are there that don't have a voltage
drop. I
{Quote hidden}> don't want to affect the signal.
>
> I have never used bus drivers would something like that work? Could you
> recommend Part numbers?
>
> Any other ideas?
>
>
> Jon
>
1999\09\30@224826
by
Matthew Ballinger
A 4066 quad bilateral switch (CMOS) will be pretty easy to find and use.
I've used them in past pic projects successfully. On resistance is about 200
ohms ( a bit high), but sufices for most signals.
Matt B
> > Hi everyone
> >
> > I need my PIC to intercept some sensor signals (when needed) and also
have
{Quote hidden}> > the ability to pass them through. I have used small relays for this
> before. I
> > don't have the room on the board to put relays. We are talking small
> signal
> > current less then 2mA.
> >
> > What kind of solid state switches are there that don't have a voltage
> drop. I
> > don't want to affect the signal.
> >
> > I have never used bus drivers would something like that work? Could you
> > recommend Part numbers?
> >
> > Any other ideas?
> >
> >
> > Jon
1999\09\30@231403
by
Steve Kelley
Jon . . . .
What sort of signal are you concerned with ? Is it a D.C. or A.C. signal ?
What is the signal voltage level ? What is the signal frequency , if A.C. ?
If you are looking to simply pass a D.C. current , then a mosfet will have the lowest
*on* resistance , and drop very little of the signal. However , once you have the
other spec.'s available it may be that a * line-buffer* would serve your purpose.
Believe it or not the old * MC1488 and MC 1489 * pair still serve some app.'s
Regards . . . .
Steve
{Original Message removed}
1999\09\30@233923
by
David Covick
Jon,
Also, Maxim has a new improved 4066 replacement part. The MAX4066. About
100 ohms R, depending on voltage to the chip. Bandwidth of 100 MHz.
David
> Hi everyone
>
> I need my PIC to intercept some sensor signals (when needed) and also have
> the ability to pass them through. I have used small relays for this
before. I
> don't have the room on the board to put relays. We are talking small
signal
> current less then 2mA.
>
> What kind of solid state switches are there that don't have a voltage
drop. I
{Quote hidden}> don't want to affect the signal.
>
> I have never used bus drivers would something like that work? Could you
> recommend Part numbers?
>
> Any other ideas?
>
>
> Jon
>
1999\09\30@233932
by
Graham, Peter
Hi Jon
You could try the MAX312,313,314 from Maxim. These have a typical on
resistance of 10ohms or the DG417,418,419 from Silconix and Maxim that have
a typical on resistance of
20 ohms. These parts will allow a maximum of +/- 15 to +/-20 volt on the
lines.
I haven't used the 312 - 314 but the 417- 419's work well.
Peter G
> {Original Message removed}
'solid state switches for signal wires'
1999\10\01@011450
by
Jon Petty
The application is 0-5 volts ,DC automotive application. They are sensor
signals
Thanks
Jon
In a message dated 9/30/99 8:14:17 PM US Mountain Standard Time,
TakeThisOuTDigital-EngineeringKILLspam
.....MSN.COM writes:
<< Jon . . . .
What sort of signal are you concerned with ? Is it a D.C. or A.C. signal ?
What is the signal voltage level ? What is the signal frequency , if A.C. ?
If you are looking to simply pass a D.C. current , then a mosfet will have
the lowest
*on* resistance , and drop very little of the signal. However , once you
have the
other spec.'s available it may be that a * line-buffer* would serve your
purpose.
Believe it or not the old * MC1488 and MC 1489 * pair still serve some
app.'s
Regards . . . .
Steve >>
1999\10\01@025859
by
Bob Wake
> What kind of solid state switches are there that don't have a voltage drop. I
> don't want to affect the signal.
Try DG211's, TTL input, very low RDSon!
1999\10\01@083830
by
paulb
Jon Petty wrote:
> What kind of solid state switches are there that don't have a voltage
> drop.
None really.
> I have never used bus drivers would something like that work?
"Bus drivers" are singularly heavy-duty *digital* inverters/ buffers.
Not analog.
I think the 74HC4066 has a substantially lower Ron and other better
characteristics than the older 4066, and works on 0 to 5V beautifully,
if not a wider range depending perhaps on brand. I suggest this as it
should be more readily available and cheaper than the other dedicated
parts.
--
Cheers,
Paul B.
1999\10\01@114208
by
Andre Abelian
Jon,
you might want to try analog switches. one of them is 4066
better one is DG411 by HARRIS microchip uses this part in
picstart + too. the resistance is about 40 ohms.
Andre Abelian
> Hi everyone
>
> I need my PIC to intercept some sensor signals (when needed) and also have
> the ability to pass them through. I have used small relays for this
before. I
> don't have the room on the board to put relays. We are talking small
signal
> current less then 2mA.
>
> What kind of solid state switches are there that don't have a voltage
drop. I
{Quote hidden}> don't want to affect the signal.
>
> I have never used bus drivers would something like that work? Could you
> recommend Part numbers?
>
> Any other ideas?
>
>
> Jon
>
1999\10\01@124035
by
Wagner Lipnharski
|
John, you can search for several suppliers of analog switching chips,
there are a pretty high competition in the market for this kind of
devices.
Just remember that no one is perfect, no one gets even close to a relay
contact, doesn't matter the cost of the unit. Good ones, switching
resistance of 10 Ohms of less, cost more, and even so, you will be
limited by its VCC supply less the rails limits... if you supply the
unit with 5V, probably your switching signal will be limited between
+0.6 and +4.4 Volts. Even with a small 2mA signal current, you will see
a voltage drop of about 20mV or more in this expensive unit, and the
response linearity is quite poor for high frequencies.
A relay contact, as you know, allows any kind of voltage level and
frequency. The smaller relays have a better response over the large
ones. Aromat has some very tinny devices, equivalent of a regular .3
dip 12 pins chip.
I already used one latching relay of this size, cost about $3.50, so,
cheaper than a good chip, and works much better, with a peak current of
3mA 50ms to latch it, and no current from the supply to unlatch it. You
just need a logic gate output and a 50uF capacitor to do it, probably
the PIC port output can do it nicely.
What is the average power consume per switch of a nice analog switch
microchip?
I am not sponsoring the use of relays, but never put away the
possibility to use them as a good solution.
Electronic analog switching already made several improvements, CPClare
has several nice solutions, limited by actual necessity of the market,
but this technology has a long way to go if you think to generalize its
use.
Wagner
1999\10\01@133619
by
William K. Borsum
aromat AQV 212 solid state relays will switch at around 2 volts and <2 mA
of current. <1 ohm on resistance. Digikey carries them.
Kelly
At 10:13 PM 9/30/99 EDT, you wrote:
{Quote hidden}>Hi everyone
>
>I need my PIC to intercept some sensor signals (when needed) and also have
>the ability to pass them through. I have used small relays for this before. I
>don't have the room on the board to put relays. We are talking small signal
>current less then 2mA.
>
>What kind of solid state switches are there that don't have a voltage drop. I
>don't want to affect the signal.
>
>I have never used bus drivers would something like that work? Could you
>recommend Part numbers?
>
>Any other ideas?
>
>
>Jon
>
>
William K. Borsum, P.E. -- OEM Dataloggers and Instrumentation Systems
<borsumspam_OUT
spamBeGonedascor.com> & <http://www.dascor.com>San Diego, California, USA
'Chip on board assembly (wire bonding)'
1999\10\01@171621
by
Andy Kunz
>So, does anyone out there do this kind of work? Can you recommend someone?
>BTW, though I'm specifically looking for prototypes now, I'm not married to
>the production shop, and it's still open for discussion.
Aries Electronics can do proto and small production runs. These are the
same folks who make all kinds of connectors.
http://www.arieselec.com/
Andy
==================================================================
Eternity is only a heartbeat away - are you ready? Ask me how!
------------------------------------------------------------------
andy.....
@spam@rc-hydros.com http://www.rc-hydros.com - Race Boats
@spam@andyspam
montanadesign.com http://www.montanadesign.com - Electronics
==================================================================
'OT: Wire audio recordings'
1999\10\04@163009
by
PJH
|
Hey PICers,
This is rather off-topic but ... I
just was asked the question pasted
below. Does anybody know how those
old 'on wire' audio recordings were
done and what sort of pick-up head
you'd need to extract the signal?
(We're talking circa 1920's.)
I guess, you could use a 16c73 or
sim to digitise them. BUT magnetic
tapes have to be frequency
compensated before palyback, I seem
to recall from long ago. If wire
recordings need to be processed
similarly you'd probably do that
before the digitising stage to keep
the processing simple, I guess?
Need to think about a drive unit of
some sort for the wire spools as
well - wonder what sort of speed
you'd be looking at?
Any tips appreciated - PJH
{Quote hidden}> I have just received an interesting note indicating:
>
> > are 'hundreds' of recordings of bird
> > songs/calls that her husband made back in the early days of field
> > recording.
>
> The recordings are on wire. Any way to play them and get the
> sound digital (e.g. on a PC from its sound board)?
>
> The goal is to have the songs ultimately on CD-ROM or cassette
> tapes, and I have everything necessary but a wire player.
>
> best regards,
>
> Marty Michener
> MIST Software Associates, Inc.
> Hollis, NH
>
--
*************************************************
PETER HYNES
FAX: Int-61-3-9809 0604 NET:
spam_OUTelekspamBeGone
spamBeGonenetstra.com.au
*************************************************
1999\10\04@174750
by
Dave VanHorn
> I guess, you could use a 16c73 or
> sim to digitise them. BUT magnetic
> tapes have to be frequency
> compensated before palyback, I seem
> to recall from long ago. If wire
> recordings need to be processed
> similarly you'd probably do that
> before the digitising stage to keep
> the processing simple, I guess?
The head will be the most critical piece. It's probably going to have an
unusually large gap. If the gap on the playback head is too small, then it
will be very noisy, among other problems.
The book "magnetic recording" by Finn Jorgenson may help, it's a tab book.
Good luck!
1999\10\04@224711
by
William K. Borsum
|
Used to have an old wire recorder when I was a kid--in the 50's or there
abouts. Don't recall much about it except that the wire moved fairly fast
and broke easily. TAPE usually was either amplitude or frequency modulated
carrier of about 100 KHz. I don't know about the wire but would suspect
they would have to do the same thing.
The Smithsonia in Washington has a huge collection of old recordings--and
the equipment to play them back. Might be a source of good
information--work a trade--they transcribe and get a copy for the arkives?
Kelly
At 06:26 AM 10/5/99 +1000, you wrote:
{Quote hidden}>Hey PICers,
>
>This is rather off-topic but ... I
>just was asked the question pasted
>below. Does anybody know how those
>old 'on wire' audio recordings were
>done and what sort of pick-up head
>you'd need to extract the signal?
>(We're talking circa 1920's.)
>
>I guess, you could use a 16c73 or
>sim to digitise them. BUT magnetic
>tapes have to be frequency
>compensated before palyback, I seem
>to recall from long ago. If wire
>recordings need to be processed
>similarly you'd probably do that
>before the digitising stage to keep
>the processing simple, I guess?
>
>Need to think about a drive unit of
>some sort for the wire spools as
>well - wonder what sort of speed
>you'd be looking at?
>
>Any tips appreciated - PJH
>
>
>> I have just received an interesting note indicating:
>>
>> > are 'hundreds' of recordings of bird
>> > songs/calls that her husband made back in the early days of field
>> > recording.
>>
>> The recordings are on wire. Any way to play them and get the
>> sound digital (e.g. on a PC from its sound board)?
>>
>> The goal is to have the songs ultimately on CD-ROM or cassette
>> tapes, and I have everything necessary but a wire player.
>>
>> best regards,
>>
>> Marty Michener
>> MIST Software Associates, Inc.
>> Hollis, NH
>>
>
>
>--
>*************************************************
>
>PETER HYNES
>FAX: Int-61-3-9809 0604 NET:
>
elekRemoveME
TakeThisOuTnetstra.com.au
>*************************************************
>
>
William K. Borsum, P.E. -- OEM Dataloggers and Instrumentation Systems
<TakeThisOuTborsumKILLspam
dascor.com> & <http://www.dascor.com>San Diego, California, USA
1999\10\04@230352
by
Sean H. Breheny
At 07:42 PM 10/4/99 -0700, you wrote:
>and broke easily. TAPE usually was either amplitude or frequency modulated
>carrier of about 100 KHz. I don't know about the wire but would suspect
>they would have to do the same thing.
What kind of tape are you talking about? You don't mean regular cassette
tapes,do you? AFAIK, those are just the raw audio applied to the recording
head (no carriers).
Sean
|
| Sean Breheny
| Amateur Radio Callsign: KA3YXM
| Electrical Engineering Student
\--------------=----------------
Save lives, please look at http://www.all.org
Personal page: http://www.people.cornell.edu/pages/shb7
RemoveMEshb7TakeThisOuT
spamcornell.edu ICQ #: 3329174
1999\10\04@232036
by
Richard Prosser
I think you're talking about bias.
In the early days DC bias was applied - I think this included wire
recording. These days AC bias is applied at something like 100kHz. This
reduces noise (or allows increased recorded level which results in the same
thing) and reduces distortion. In both cases the bias is simply added to the
signal - not modulated by it (although I guess in the DC case it amounts to
much the same thing).
I also have wondered what sort of heads were used for wire recorders .
(Weren't flight recorders a wire recording until reasonably recently?)
Richard P
> {Original Message removed}
1999\10\04@234820
by
Brian Aase
|
> I also have wondered what sort of heads were used for wire recorders .
> (Weren't flight recorders a wire recording until reasonably recently?)
As I recall, flight recorders used steel bands (and still may).
If one is looking to play back some pre-recorded wire, my
first suggestion is to pick up a wire recorder transport. They
show up on the ebay auction from time to time. I used to
own one, and it really didn't sound as bad as I expected.
The head had a very deep notch in the front to capture the
wire, but I never tried to take the thing apart to see how it
was built.
The transports (most were made by Webcor, a few by Brush)
did not use a capstan; instead, the takeup reel turned at a
more-or-less constant speed. This means that the wire itself
passed over (through?) the head faster as more wire
accumulated on the takeup reel.
The head had a really cute mechanism to move it up and down
while running, to make sure the wire wound onto the takeup
in a nice even pattern.
It shouldn't be too hard to infer the playback EQ by inspecting
the rather simple electronics in the machine. You might put out
a feeler on the rec.audio.tech newsgroup. Some people there
do serious archiving work, and can probably elaborate at length.
For now, back to the pic world.
1999\10\05@131906
by
Harold M Hallikainen
You should be able to find wire recorders at garage sales,
antique stores, etc. My high school girlfriend's grandmother had one
that we played with. They SHOULD still exist. You shouldn't have to
build your own. I think her machine was a Webcor.
Harold
Harold Hallikainen
.....harold@spam@
spamBeGonehallikainen.com
Hallikainen & Friends, Inc.
See the FCC Rules at http://hallikainen.com/FccRules and comments filed
in LPFM proceeding at http://hallikainen.com/lpfm
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1999\10\05@194918
by
William K. Borsum
|
At 11:00 PM 10/4/99 -0400, you wrote:
>At 07:42 PM 10/4/99 -0700, you wrote:
>>and broke easily. TAPE usually was either amplitude or frequency modulated
>>carrier of about 100 KHz. I don't know about the wire but would suspect
>>they would have to do the same thing.
>
>What kind of tape are you talking about? You don't mean regular cassette
>tapes,do you? AFAIK, those are just the raw audio applied to the recording
>head (no carriers).
>
Yup--Or at least thats the way I remember it from my engineering days at
Ampex. Scientific and hi frequency analog recorders general y used a HF
carrier, that was typically FM modulated. Frequency response depended
heavily on the speed of the tape across the head gap versus the width of
the gap. Very narrow gaps could run the tape slower. In the olde days,
good audio was typically run at 15-30 ips, and I don't recall seeing any 3
ips tapes until about the time I left the industry. Video got around the
problem by spinning the head on a diagonal across the tape. Audio--and
I'm trying to remember data from 35 years ago--needed to be written with an
AM modulated carrier to get the ferrite particles in the tape to magnetize
correctly. Playback appeared to be normal audio frequencies straight off
the heads. 100Khz sticks in my mind for the carrier.
Ampex put out a really good technical book on magnetic recording--might
still be available.
Kelly
William K. Borsum, P.E. -- OEM Dataloggers and Instrumentation Systems
<STOPspamborsumTakeThisOuT
dascor.com> & <http://www.dascor.com>San Diego, California, USA
1999\10\06@015838
by
Nigel Goodwin
|
In message <TakeThisOuT61E63DF92FF1D1119A2800805FA64017014C56EC@spam@
exchange1.swichtec.
>
co.nz>, Richard Prosser <EraseMERPROSSEREraseME
SWICHTEC.CO.NZ> writes
>In the early days DC bias was applied - I think this included wire
>recording. These days AC bias is applied at something like 100kHz. This
>reduces noise (or allows increased recorded level which results in the same
>thing) and reduces distortion. In both cases the bias is simply added to the
>signal - not modulated by it (although I guess in the DC case it amounts to
>much the same thing).
The bias is to overcome the hysteresis (I'm not sure about that
spelling!) in the recording medium. As you say, modern recorders use
about 100KHz for the bias, the recorded audio is added to this, and
amplitude modulates it. The bias is usually a fairly high signal level,
up to 100 volts peak to peak, and the audio is very low, only a few
100mV. This makes it very hard to see the modulation on an oscilloscope,
sometimes you can just see it with the gain turned up and the vertical
shift fully one way :-).
--
Nigel.
/--------------------------------------------------------------\
| Nigel Goodwin | Internet : nigelgTakeThisOuT
KILLspamlpilsley.demon.co.uk |
| Lower Pilsley | Web Page : http://www.lpilsley.demon.co.uk |
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1999\10\06@021339
by
Sean H. Breheny
This discussion is confusing me more and more as it continues ;-)
At 06:44 PM 10/5/99 +0100, you wrote:
>The bias is to overcome the hysteresis (I'm not sure about that
>spelling!) in the recording medium. As you say, modern recorders use
>about 100KHz for the bias, the recorded audio is added to this, and
If this is so, then why when you look at the specs do they give the
frequency response of the recording head as something like -3dB at 19kHz?
Also, if I understand magnetic recording, you NEED hysteresis to make a
recording (in order for the tape to effectively retain the information, the
tape must be magnetized, which means that you are on one of the flat parts
of the hysteresis loop). The audio itself must overcome the hysteresis and
reverse it (if needed) in order to be strong enough to produce a good
recording. I don't see how adding an additional 100kHz signal helps this
process. I would assume that the hysteresis loop would be a lot more linear
at 100kHz (and have a LOT less slope than in the vertical region of the
low-freq. loop).
I just want to make sure that we're talking about the same thing: I'm
talking about the walkman that I buy at the corner store for $25, not some
high-end specialty audio recorders or digital decks.
>amplitude modulates it. The bias is usually a fairly high signal level,
How does adding two signals together (in a roughly linear system) cause one
to modulate the other?
>up to 100 volts peak to peak, and the audio is very low, only a few
>100mV. This makes it very hard to see the modulation on an oscilloscope,
>sometimes you can just see it with the gain turned up and the vertical
>shift fully one way :-).
I don't know where in a normal tape deck there would be a 100Vp-p 100kHz
supply!! I am thinking more and more that we are talking about different
things.
>--
>
>Nigel.
Sean
>
> /--------------------------------------------------------------\
> | Nigel Goodwin | Internet : nigelgspamBeGone
spamlpilsley.demon.co.uk |
> | Lower Pilsley | Web Page : http://www.lpilsley.demon.co.uk |
> | Chesterfield | Official site for Shin Ki and New Spirit |
> | England | Ju Jitsu |
> \--------------------------------------------------------------/
>
|
| Sean Breheny
| Amateur Radio Callsign: KA3YXM
| Electrical Engineering Student
\--------------=----------------
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1999\10\06@030519
by
Michael Rigby-Jones
Sean, all analogue magnetic tape recorders use some kind of high frequency
bias, even your cheapo walkman (as long as it records). With out the bias
the recording would be very poor. Have a look at
http://www.vex.net/~pcook/rec.audio.pro/analog.html (section Q4.2) and it
explains.
Mike Rigby-Jones
> {Original Message removed}
1999\10\06@054715
by
paulb
|
William K. Borsum wrote:
> Scientific and hi frequency analog recorders generally used a HF
> carrier, that was typically FM modulated.
As do "Hi-Fi" video tape recorders now.
> 100Khz sticks in my mind for the carrier.
For an FM carrier, it would be. For bias, 30 to 40 KHz I would have
thought would be generous. The article Michael Rigby-Jones references
does however go along with the 100 KHz as does my final point below.
Sean H. Breheny wrote:
> This discussion is confusing me more and more as it continues ;-)
So it seems.
> If this is so, then why when you look at the specs do they give the
> frequency response of the recording head as something like -3dB at
> 19kHz?
Why do you suppose you need a *large* bias?
> Also, if I understand magnetic recording, you NEED hysteresis to make
> a recording (in order for the tape to effectively retain the
> information, the tape must be magnetized, which means that you are on
> one of the flat parts of the hysteresis loop).
You confuse retention with hysteresis. Putty has fairly good
retention, but little hysteresis; you bend it and it stays bent. Steel
has hysteresis; you bend it but it springs back. Bend it further, and
after springing back, it stays "set" to a lesser position than you bent
it. Of course the steel resists alteration better overall.
Magnetic recording materials are generally "soft" (interestingly, this
often parallels their mechanical properties) with low hysteresis. A
very crude recorder without bias will record on a good material, but you
will get significant distortion. More bias is needed for "harder"
materials such as Chrome, thus the switches on the recorder.
> The audio itself must overcome the hysteresis and reverse it (if
> needed) in order to be strong enough to produce a good recording. I
> don't see how adding an additional 100kHz signal helps this process.
But that's exactly the point. The audio *doesn't* overcome the
hysteresis, the bias signal (added, not multiplied) does. In effect the
audio "biasses" the bias signal to control the point to which the
magnetism falls back after the head passes.
> I would assume that the hysteresis loop would be a lot more linear
> at 100kHz (and have a LOT less slope than in the vertical region of
> the low-freq. loop).
You got me there!
> I just want to make sure that we're talking about the same thing: I'm
> talking about the walkman that I buy at the corner store for $25, not
> some high-end specialty audio recorders or digital decks.
Even Walkmans have to deliver *some* fidelity, for which you need
bias. *Good* machines use the same bias oscillator (at higher level) to
drive the erase head (which has a much larger gap) while "junk" machines
use DC.
> How does adding two signals together (in a roughly linear system)
> cause one to modulate the other?
It certainly doesn't. What it does is cycle the material through a
loop which is well beyond the hysteresis level. The signal component
affects the *average* (not the *amplitude*) of this cycle, and that
defines the level of magnetization that results.
There are two other ways of looking at this. The tape contains
"domains" each of which have basically two states. The bulk
magnetization is the proportion of each state. Demagnetization is when
equal numbers of domains are in each state, while "saturation" is when
virtually all domains are in the same state. That should make it a lot
clearer. It explains also why tape is a noisy medium as the domains are
quantised.
The first way of looking at it is to say that as the tape leaves the
gap, the domains on the very edge of the gap are aligned in proportion
to the magnetization at that point. The alternative is to view the
addition of bias and signal and application of this to a hysteretic gate
as generation of PWM, just as you could do with a 74HC14.
How's that sound (did you ever think of generating PWM that way for a
"class D" amplifier)? You can see why the bias needs to be much larger
than the signal to make the process linear, but too much bias reduces
the signal.
> I don't know where in a normal tape deck there would be a 100Vp-p
> 100kHz supply!
You look in a tape deck (recorder) and you'll see at least one "IF"
transformer!
--
Cheers,
Paul B.
1999\10\06@105031
by
Wagner Lipnharski
|
To be able to extract the same recorded signal, high frequency bias is
required during recording.
First of all, you can not record very well low frequencies in magnetic
media, and even if you can, the retrieving of that signal would be very
difficult. High frequencies are easily recorded, so the tricky thing is
to record your audio together with some kind of high frequency carrier.
Think as if you inject pure audio to a radio transmitter antenna, you
will transmit something, but very weak, no use for it right? ok, it is a
gross comparison, but makes sense, you need a high frequency carrier
that works better in *that* media. This is why you "modulate" the radio
frequency (carrier) with the audio signal, in AM (amplitude modulated),
FM (frequency), DPSK (phase), QAM (quadrature), and some other
modulation techniques.
The magnetic tape media has its own characteristics, and we need to
"adapt" our audio signal to be recorded. As the frequency response of
the tape is better at high frequencies, we need to use that frequency
band as our working zone, so this is why we use a carrier around 100kHz
to be modulated by the audio signal.
In real you are not recording audio, but a modulated radio frequency of
100kHz on tape, that's it.
In a radio receiver, you need a circuit to remove the radio frequency
from the incoming signal and leave only the audio, this is called
"detector" or something else. This job in the tape player is done by the
magnetic head itself and little electronics around it to better
compensate the frequency response.
This is used in *all* magnetic tape recorders, from $5 units from KMart,
answering machines, up to professional expensive players.
VCR units should use this only for audio (since it is recorded in the
same way as a audio cassette unit, longitudinal recording), while video
recording frequency is quite high, and I guess it doesn't need it.
Wagner
1999\10\06@122011
by
Dave VanHorn
|
Ok, this needs a severe debunking.
> >The bias is to overcome the hysteresis (I'm not sure about that
> >spelling!) in the recording medium. As you say, modern recorders use
> >about 100KHz for the bias, the recorded audio is added to this, and
True. But it has <<NOTHING>> to do with playback.
The bias signal is simply there to "shake up" the tape, and make it possible
to record at lower signal levels than before. Imagine a tray full of
rocks, You could write in them with your finger, but not very well. If you
shake the tray so the rocks are in motion, then you can move them around
with ease. If you had a way to shake the rocks that are near your finger,
and then leave them alone, you'd have a bias generator.
What's recorded on audio tape (not video tape!) is simply audio. Hook a
radio shack amplifier to a head, and rub the head on the tape. The head
isn't capable of reproducing anything at the bias frequency, the wavelength
(as defined by how much tape moves past a point during one cycle) is too
short by far.
The audio in an audio tape recorder is not recorded as some sort of
modulated carrier, or encoded, or anything else fancy.
1999\10\06@122019
by
Mike Keitz
On Wed, 6 Oct 1999 10:31:11 -0400 Wagner Lipnharski
<wagnerl.....
.....EARTHLINK.NET> writes:
> This is used in *all* magnetic tape recorders, from $5 units from
> KMart,
> answering machines, up to professional expensive players.
The very cheapest units at least used to use "DC bias" for recording. I
think this involves just flowing some DC through the record / play head
(obviously causing a problem later during playback, when it is still
magnetized). DC can also be used for erasing. The erase head may just
be a permanent magnet. It is possible to make a recognizeable recording
this way, but quality is poor.
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1999\10\07@151930
by
Nigel Goodwin
|
In message <spam_OUT37FB5D2F.2142C5BEEraseME
.....earthlink.net>, Wagner Lipnharski
<EraseMEwagnerlKILLspam
spamEARTHLINK.NET> writes
>VCR units should use this only for audio (since it is recorded in the
>same way as a audio cassette unit, longitudinal recording), while video
>recording frequency is quite high, and I guess it doesn't need it.
Correct, the video is recorded as an FM signal at a high power and high
frequency, and doesn't require any bias. The same applies to HI-FI audio
as well, but the conventional linear audio uses bias just like an audio
tape recorder. In fact it's a fairly common fault that the bias
oscillator packs up, this also stops the erase as well, but the video
signal has enough power to erase the tape anyway, so the picture's OK,
but the old sound is left on the recording - you can get quite amusing
results sometimes :-).
--
Nigel.
/--------------------------------------------------------------\
| Nigel Goodwin | Internet : RemoveMEnigelgSTOPspam
EraseMElpilsley.demon.co.uk |
| Lower Pilsley | Web Page : http://www.lpilsley.demon.co.uk |
| Chesterfield | Official site for Shin Ki and New Spirit |
| England | Ju Jitsu |
\--------------------------------------------------------------/
1999\10\07@151942
by
Nigel Goodwin
|
In message <006301bf1016$6d79ffa0$0200a8c0@xemu>, Dave VanHorn
<spam_OUTdvanhornspam
RemoveMECEDAR.NET> writes
>Ok, this needs a severe debunking.
I wouldn't say so, as it's what happens!.
>> >The bias is to overcome the hysteresis (I'm not sure about that
>> >spelling!) in the recording medium. As you say, modern recorders use
>> >about 100KHz for the bias, the recorded audio is added to this, and
>
>True. But it has <<NOTHING>> to do with playback.
Very true, I never suggested it had!
>The bias signal is simply there to "shake up" the tape, and make it possible
>to record at lower signal levels than before. Imagine a tray full of
>rocks, You could write in them with your finger, but not very well. If you
>shake the tray so the rocks are in motion, then you can move them around
>with ease. If you had a way to shake the rocks that are near your finger,
>and then leave them alone, you'd have a bias generator.
Perhaps one of the easiest ways to understand what bias does is to
imagine towing a car using a bungee rope. When you start pulling, the
rope stretches and the car doesn't move at first, the same applies to
magnetic tape, the signal has to overcome the 'reluctance' to be
magnetised and this causes massive distortion. To overcome this a high
level, high frequency signal is used to 'shift' the audio signal above
this distortion area. A very high level is required because neither the
head or the tape are sensitive at these frequencies.
>What's recorded on audio tape (not video tape!) is simply audio. Hook a
>radio shack amplifier to a head, and rub the head on the tape. The head
>isn't capable of reproducing anything at the bias frequency, the wavelength
>(as defined by how much tape moves past a point during one cycle) is too
>short by far.
Exactly, that's why the bias frequency is chosen to be where it is!
>The audio in an audio tape recorder is not recorded as some sort of
>modulated carrier, or encoded, or anything else fancy.
No, just plain audio, the bias is too high to be recorded.
--
Nigel.
/--------------------------------------------------------------\
| Nigel Goodwin | Internet : spamBeGonenigelgEraseME
lpilsley.demon.co.uk |
| Lower Pilsley | Web Page : http://www.lpilsley.demon.co.uk |
| Chesterfield | Official site for Shin Ki and New Spirit |
| England | Ju Jitsu |
\--------------------------------------------------------------/
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